Combining MR sound and 7135 regulated circuit for saber

Well, seeing as how Kaidomain has the UV LED, I had to get one to play with. I also picked up a 1.2A regulated circuit and a 755mA regulated circuit. Hopefully, they'll be going in the pair of sabers I am working on, but I'd like a bit of clarification (or a whole lot of clarification) of how to wire the MR board and these tiny regulated circuits together in a saber to get sound and good current to my LED.

Help?! Directions are virtually non-existent, but somebody here has had to have played with these cute little guys and gotten them to work in a saber before.

Thanks.

I would be curious about these, and how to get a 5w LED in general to work with an MR board. A parts list and a diagram would be LOVELY.
I think I may test out one of the Uv LEDs as well.

First off,, you need a real steady hand soldering those 7135 driver boards. You have about a milimeter or so of clearance. This is how I practiced to solder a Rebel, incidentally...

Second, I thought all Kai had for those boards left were multi-finction - as in click once for 100%, click again gor 50%, etc. I get mine from DealExtreme.com, as they have more of a selection, and I go through the 350 mAh ones somewhat regularly in the spring.

After that, you can run the MR board's output to a relay, and run the driver off that, just like a K2 in a Mace conversion. That way, you could put almost any LED in there, depending on which driver you use.

Its just much much simpler to use a dpdt switch. One side of the switch activates the mr board in place of the original and the other lets power through to the driver. Simple and not something that really needs a wiring diagram.

You dont use the led output of the mr board at all that way and theres no bulky relay to worry about with the subsequent voltage spikes that energising the coil gives (as most people always forget to put diodes across the coil).

Thanks much, Phil. Glad to see it's something that simple. Now to find a good looking DPDT switch for these sabers.

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Originally Posted by Dregan

First off,, you need a real steady hand soldering those 7135 driver boards. You have about a milimeter or so of clearance. This is how I practiced to solder a Rebel, incidentally...

Second, I thought all Kai had for those boards left were multi-finction - as in click once for 100%, click again gor 50%, etc. I get mine from DealExtreme.com, as they have more of a selection, and I go through the 350 mAh ones somewhat regularly in the spring.

After that, you can run the MR board's output to a relay, and run the driver off that, just like a K2 in a Mace conversion. That way, you could put almost any LED in there, depending on which driver you use.

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I'm none too worried about soldering these things. I fixed a broken Corbin/TCSS PLI last night by soldering bridge wires across the contacts I wanted for a particular voltage. Worked a charm and looks nice. 1MM of clearance is plenty.