Following parts list on basic saber list, quick connector out of stock.

Hi. I'm a newbie. Wooooo.

I'm trying to scrap up some money to get some parts from here, but I'm not sure if that will happen...

Anywho...how important is the quick connector and how long is it usually out of stock?

I also would like sound effects on mine, even if it is more advanced. If it's connecting a soldering wires, doesn't sound to intimidating.

........I love the selection on the store! But, I can't afford a lot right now. :cry:

Anyone also have suggestions for parts in hardware stores, random computer part stores or camera stores that might be a teeny bit cheaper? I know the secrets of the sink tube, but what else?
(I'm going into TV/Movies/Music anyway...I like building props that work. :D)

Thanks!!

I don't really know of any other parts you can salvage from cameras or computers or anything, unless you're looking to build a reveal-style saber.
TCSS is the most inexpensive option when it comes to custom sabers. I highly reccomend saving your money and placing a large order ONLY when you're financially secure enough to do it. After you place one order, you'll want more and more and it's VERY EASY to go overboard and end up in a tight financial situation. Not that I know from experience or anything.... *eats more cold ramen noodles*

The quick connects aren't essential at all. You use them if you ever want to swap out LED's or something.
I don't think I've seen the quick connects in stock since I started visiting the forums in February.
Try these:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...tors-P360.aspx
They work very well and look to be smaller than the quick connects. And from what I hear they make a better connection and it's easier to tell positive and negative with them. I've made just about all of my internals swappable with these. I can take off my switch, led and speaker without having to solder or de-solder anything.
The store's soundcard was recently unlocked so you can import a huge variety of sound fonts if you want. You can always salvage the $20 toy sabers from Wal-Mart or get one from a Master Replicas saber for about $50.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Big_Furry_Oaf

I don't really know of any other parts you can salvage from cameras or computers or anything,....

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It is possible use the Battery Packs from laptops. BUT, for someone new soldering and electronics, I wouldn't suggest it. There are some of us that have experience with them.

Yes to all of the above...it is a great hobby and I know you will love it. and welcome to the forum.

i use the 9V battery connector in my sabers cheep and easy to use 2 on the LED side and 2 on the bettery side.

You just have to remember to reverse the wiring on one of those snap connectors, if you use them.

Thanks you all! I'm a telecommunication major, so I'm also interested maybe finding someone that has made props for awhile. Just incase you know. :D I know too many people who want to direct. lolol

And....this is, well cheaper than buliding a saber, but something has to go with the saber right? Like a character? :D http://www.heromachine.com/heromachine-3-lab/ Knock yourself out. bahahaha It's quite entertaining. :) That and a comment to Big Furry Oaf...I think I heard you can fry ramen noodles. Google it? :D

I've been reading and educating myself before I continue with my ideas for my first saber, but what's the ideal weight of a hilt? I found a plumbing part, it's a little heavy and a little thick metal wise, but it would look great as a weathered metal hilt design. I would just need some other parts, then I'd be set to order eletronics and the blade. It's an 1 1/2" diameter and about 8" long. The metal is about a half a cm more than the sink tube. :)

LOL Oh my goodness!! They are freaking awesome!!!!!! :D
...I derailed the train myself in the first place, but anywhoo...I have another question, particuarly about hilts. :)

Has anyone tried to use an anodized aluminum relay baton like a sink tube?
It's about the exact same size, it doesn't cost a whole lot for one, let alone buy a set of 5 to 8.
The only thing would be to thread/die the ends, which if I try to figure out bit sizes...should work with a helicoil insert and still leave room for eletronics.

Thoughts? I'll post this again in another thread to maybe get more input. :)

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Originally Posted by ks_racegirl727

I'll post this again in another thread to maybe get more input. :)

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I just replied to said thread. A friendly word of advice, don't post the same thing in multiple threads.;)

I removed the derailment and put it into it's own thread. That way, people can add their own work, if they want to.

I'll let your new thread stand, but please don't keep making new threads for the same basic questions.

Thanks