Lighted AV switch question

Hello saber community!

First time builder here with a question. I've tried to dig down in the forums for a post on this topic but my search-fu is weak. I am planning on using a NBv4 with a Pex, lighted AV switch, recharge port and an NECree RGB V2 LED. The full color mixing capability is what drew me to this option and I've watched several tutorials on how to wire all of this up. However, all of the tutorials and wiring diagrams I have seen use a standard AV switch, not a lighted one. Can someone drop some knowledge on me and let me know which pad to solder the switch LED to? Right now I am assuming that it would be either L1 or L2 on the NB, shared with the lead to the LED in the emitter.

Thanks in advance!

Ghost

Are you wanting the Switch LED to come on with the saber? In which case L1 or L2 will do. If it is a case of always on when power is applied to the board, the pad pointed out on Page 14 of the manual would be ebst.
All properly resistored of course :)

Thanks! It was right in my face and I still managed to miss it. I am planning on having the switch illuminate when the kill key is removed so this works perfectly.

Thanks again! I'll re-post pictures of the completed hilt once I'm finished with the shrouds and etching. Then a follow up once the electronics are installed.

Ghost

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ST Ghost 01

Thanks! It was right in my face and I still managed to miss it. I am planning on having the switch illuminate when the kill key is removed so this works perfectly.

Thanks again! I'll re-post pictures of the completed hilt once I'm finished with the shrouds and etching. Then a follow up once the electronics are installed.

Ghost

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Since you're using a recharge port, I've wired the LED of the switch directly to the recharge port: ground of the LED going to the same negative terminal used for the soundboard, positive of the LED going to the positive terminal of the recharge port. As Vypr said, have to use a resistor, and calculate based on the voltage of the battery at that point. Whenever you would remove the kill key, it would come on immediately. I did it this way so I had less soldering to the board happening.

Thanks for the tip! I'll have to work out both solutions and see which one will fit better with my chassis.

Madcow tutorial on illuminated switches. You have to think of the illuminated switch as 2 things. Its a switch and a LED. 4 poles, 2 for the switch, 2 for the LED.

https://youtu.be/7A-_PBRtZKE