White FoC?

Hey guys,

My big order from Tim should be here today, and tho my son's saber will be first, I am planning out the PC2.0 for mine. I already have a LEDEngin RBGW. I also purchased a PEX with the PC. My plan was originally to use the red with a blue FoC making it purple on clash. Now I'm thinking along a different route. I'm now considering a 3 way selector switch to be able to change the blade either R, B, or G, and use the W for FoC.

So, couple questions:

1. I haven't found much in searches regarding using White for FoC. Will this give the blade a nice bright white flash, or result in a pink blade when used with red?

2. Fender's tut for wiring this thing is great, but I'm not understanding where to get the values for vf and mA requirements for individual dies. I realize that if the different colors want different currents, I may end up not being able to use a selector switch or under-powering certain dies. Any thoughts on this would be extremely helpful!

Man, wiring up a multi-die LED is... interesting. It makes my son's setup with a single color look like, well, child's play. ;)

OT, can't wait to post pics of my son's saber! It's currently baking on the clearcoat. His should go together pretty quickly due to a very focused vision, MWS, and Mace sound board sitting here waiting.

Thanks all!
Tryp

Can't help you much with question one, but here's a link to the information in question two. You can find the data sheet links for the LED Engins on its store page. As for how much current you can put through each die, I can't tell you. I've heard the reds and ambers should stay around 700 to 1000 mA, but the blue and green can go up to 1500. Just what I've read other people doing; I'd check around first, and see what the pros are doing.

the flash color will be added to your main blade color. so if you use red as the main color you would get a pinkish flash with the white as FoC.
the colors will always be added, because the main blade led(s) are not turned out for the flash, they just start to shimmer.
but there are boards out there which allow you to choose a specific die/color for the flash

TC: Yeah, I did find that data sheet (okay, not really find, rather clicked on the link from the store) and it lists the current for all dies as 700 mA. This may be the answer for me tho: Since the red should prolly run at 700 mA, that's what I'll set the PC to output. Even though the green and blue could handle more, they should work fine at 700 mA, just not as bright as they could be. Not a huge concern for me, as red will be the primary color and I'm not overly concerned with maxing out the LEDs.

Oh great smiths of the saber, is my musing correct? ;)

Batosai: Yeah, that's what I was assuming would happen. I guess I will just need to wire it up and see if the "pinkish" clash is something I like or not. Of course, my dream is to pick up a CF with the new color mixing, but a PC will most definitely work for now. :D

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Originally Posted by TuxedoCartman

Can't help you much with question one, but here's a link to the information in question two. You can find the data sheet links for the LED Engins on its store page. As for how much current you can put through each die, I can't tell you. I've heard the reds and ambers should stay around 700 to 1000 mA, but the blue and green can go up to 1500. Just what I've read other people doing; I'd check around first, and see what the pros are doing.

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Have you seen this?

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ng-3-X-17670-s

Personally I think going to 1500 is a bit gutsy, but it is capable of handling it, according to specs. Just a matter of reduced lifetime.