My MHS saber

Had a question about the internals of my saber after posting in the gallery so here goes with some details.

Hilt is,from the emitter:
Style 5 blade holder,3"double threaded connector,double ended male threaded connector,Style 4 centre section,style 3 pommel giving a total length of 13".
Blade is 37" from emitter.
Balance point is exactly on the front edge of the emitter.
Led is a Lux III green and blade and film are from Erv.

Main chassis.
Consists of 4AA battery holder with CF3 hot glued on top of the tail end,aux switch near the middle and saber on/off towards the front.Another similar switch is mounted on the very front of the battery holder as a main power switch.
This allows the battery holder,cf3,speaker and switches to fit in a 7" section

http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/1...chassiswg5.jpg


The ignintion switch and main power switch are spare flashlight switches (don't know if I should state the source) and are quite low profile for latching types being 9.7mm tall although I had to file a little bit off the base and the plunger to let the chassis slide in easily without catching on the external switch buttons.
The aux switch is a pcb mount momentary tactile switch.

Visible at the top of the above pic are the switch buttons.
These are machined aluminium each with a 3mm led inside and with wires bent so as to be flush with the underside and,after heatshrinking,secured with hot glue.
The larger one is the ignition switch and contains a green led,the other is the aux and contains a red led.
The green led is used as a power on led so mimics the action of the blade,the yellow wire is wired to the Luxeon.The centre connection is the common negative connection for the green and red leds and terminates in a 2 pin quick connector at the tail end of the hilt just behind the speaker.The other wire from the red led goes to the other pin of the same quick connector.
The red led is used as a low battery warning.

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/4...rswitchut9.jpg

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4...connectqp5.jpg

The chassis is fitted in the hilt from the midpoint.
When the chassis is inserted, an end stop glued inside the hilt makes sure the switches align.

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/7...bertailjs9.jpg

Then it's just a matter of connecting the quick connect for the switch leds and the quick connect for the speaker,then screwing on the tail cap and the front half of the saber.

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/7769/ls10qy2.jpg

http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/2610/ls12ui1.jpg

I do really like what you did for the internals, very clever... It´s really nice hilt, Ade, congratulations :)

Yes, yes, clever indeed. I'm extremely impressed with people's ingenuity when it comes to finding new switch solutions.

Very nice! Have you thought about changing to a K2?

Thanks for the info ade mighty fine saber you got there.

Props. You have done well jedi night. The saber is worthy of the title.

Thanks for the kind comments everyone. :D

Malaki, might try a K2 at some point but I already had the Lux III to hand and it seems to give a bright,even blade although I guess, as with flashlights, it can never be bright enough :lol:

did you use a sink tube at all?

Nope, no sink tube,just the MHS parts listed.