The addiction grows...

Howdy, all!

First, thanks for everyone's help on my first saber. I put together a beautiful Obi-Wan ROTS saber and love it. Though we all know what happens after the first saber.... I've been bitten, and I am looking forward to building more!

However, like any addiction, I feel the need to amp up my use. My first saber was a stunt saber, and the insides look like the guts of a tauntaun. I would very much like to learn more about the art of cram-fu, and eventually work up to a crystal chamber.

But I have a few sabers I'd like to build before that. And I'd love any assistance in helping me plan out this next build. So, I present: my next replica: Luke's ANH saber!

The core skeleton of the Graflex saber is a bit difficult to determine on the MHS builder. Could anyone recommend the size of the female connector I should use? I predict:
BH Style 20
Extension Style 1
Pommel Style 11
**4" double female connector(?? or is it a 3" double female connector?)
7-piece 3.6" grip

I have a Parks' graflex replica clamp for the box. So I'll figure something for a switch. Have an idea, need to test it first.

I'll also get a sinktube from TCSS and attempt to cut and attach the rabbit ears to Tim's BH (and the wrap that goes around the blade).

Aside from all the other little greeblies for the graflex replica BH that Tim offers (the red button, the pins, etc.), does anyone see any problem with the choice of the main body pieces?

I'll re-post to this thread when I start planning out my electronics, but I mostly need reassurance that I'm picking up the right size pieces for the body.

Thanks, all.

Dan

I may as well go ahead and add some of the electronics I've stockpiled. :)

I have a cyan rebel star put together with the JST connectors. I have a 1000mAh buckpuck. I can get a latching switch. :)

I'm a little worried about space in the saber if I use my 7.4v 2600mAh 18650 Li-ion battery - it's so long! (insert that's what she said joke here). So would switching over to a 3.7V Li-ion have any effect on the brightness of the LED?

If I am planning on inserting a soundboard (a hand-me-down Obsidian soundboard from a garrisonmate), how would adding all the sound gadgets drain the battery, and therefore, dim the saber? Should I stick with the most powerful battery around, or would keeping it at 3.7V (or 6V) be sufficient power?

(Also, electrical noob question: What do each of the ratings on the battery affect the saber's quality? (example - does the Voltage only affect whether or not things have enough power, and the mAh will tell you how much time your saber will be able to be on? stuff like that?)

THanks, all.

If you're concerned about space, you can get a side-by-side li-ion pack of 14500s. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74...Pack-P698.aspx
If you want a little more runtime, there's one made from 14650s. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74...Pack-P759.aspx

You can run the Rebel Cyan off of a single 3.7v li-ion battery, but you won't be able to use a buckpuck. The buckpuck requires a minimum of 5v to operate properly.

As for your electrical noob question: that is essentially correct. mAh is a measure of how much power is stored in the battery when fully charged (think of it like the size of your gas tank). Voltage and mA (current) work together to power your items.

Awesome, thanks! That's what I thought. Is there any way to figure the amount of runtime from the pack of 14500s? If it's 800mAh, and I run a 1000mA buckpuck on the Rebel Star Cyan, is it just under an hour? ... If I get rid of the puck and wire it together an use a resistor, (first, what would the resistor be?) and second, would the effect the current?

Also, another plea to anyone who's got some experience with the graflex replica pieces from TCSS - what size extension should I get to make it about the right size? 3" or 4" double female? I'm ready to hit the purchase button on my basket, if I can get a confirmation that it'll be the right size. ;) Thanks!

On paper, you've got about (800mAh / 1000mA = 0.8h) or 48 mins of runtime. In practice, you usually get a little less, due to heat losses and assorted other such effects.

For resistor calculation, I use: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz Plug in the values for a 3.7v battery (or 7.4v, whichever you're using), 3.4v Rebel Cyan at 1000mA and it should give you an appropriate result.

I'm not sure how long a real graflex flash is, but your saber parts come to about 11 1/4 inches, which is right in the sweet spot for sabers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Silver Serpent

I'm not sure how long a real graflex flash is, but your saber parts come to about 11 1/4 inches, which is right in the sweet spot for sabers.

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That's with the 4" double female extension? (I mentioned both above.)

Thanks for walking me through the resistor calculator. I took a semester of some EE stuff, many years ago, but definitely need to shake the cobwebs loose. :)

Yes, I loaded the parts (with the 4" DF) into the MHS builder and got a total length of roughly 11 1/4" inches.

Personally, I try to keep my sabers between 11-13 inches. Hand size, fighting style, one-handed or two-handed, will all make a difference. But most sabers I've seen will fall within that range, give or take an inch. This is your saber though, so build it the way *you* want it. :)

Fair point. :) I get caught up in the replica accuracy sometimes, but I realize I'm going to have to make "some special modifications m'self" anyway.

*cracks knuckles* And here... we... go.:cool: