Any suggestions on achieving a color?

Hey guys, i'm working on a build that I want to put a lighter blue blade on, and a buddy of mine showed me this picture from US - http://imageshack.us/a/img20/2976/bladecollage12511.jpg and im a fan of they're Arctic Blue color...any idea what i could do to replicate a similar color? i was looking at pics of the blue leds and i THINK the closest i saw was the rebel blue, but it's still a bit on the deeper side. i can always order just the led from them but id prefer to not do that if its at all possible...maybe a tri-star? i did see on luxeonstar.com a setup, the tristar with blue/royal blue/cool white, but i can't picture that in my head, nor am i even sure how the hell to wire that since ive never worked with a tristar before... also, was thinking of going buckpuck for this build...i figure a 1000mA but would a 4 wire or 6 (i know 4 is LED/battery but what're the other 2 wires in a 6?) wire be better paired with a nano biscotte?

I am pretty sure that arctic blue is a mixed color of blue and white using two die of a 10w RGBW LED engine. While one option is to order the color from them already built in an LED unit, and then transfer the LED to your saber's heat sink, the other is to use one of Tims 10w RGBW LED engines and mix it yourself.

Before discovering TCSS I ordered several LED units from them (when they were on sale) and found they use the LED Engine for all mixed colors. Makes sense, less to stock. Be aware that their 'MHS' led units are not interchangeable to the ones here, so you will have to move the LED into a TCSS heat sink.

How does that work? I've never used before, so I'm rather ignorant of anything other than single LEDs...

Basic color mixing is achieved by powering 2 or more die in the RGBW LED engine. The simplest way is to wire the Blue and White die in parallel and have them driven by the 1000ma buck puck. If this color is arctic blue, then great. If it is still too blue, you would add a resistor feeding the blue die until the blue is reduce enough to look arctic blue. If the initial color is too white, you would wire the the white LED with a resistor until the white is toned down enough to give you arctic blue.

Manual color mixing like this works best if you use a few high wattage potentiometers with a 0-100 ohm value in line with each die. you can then adjust the resistance until you get the color you are looking for. Once you find the color, you measure the resistance of the potentiometer setting and replace the potentiometer with a resistor of the same value.

Fancier sound boards the the CF6.1 with a CEX allow you to mix colors by adjusting the current flow to each die on the computer screen until you are happy with the color.

also on a side not the Guardian Blue is alot dark than the blue that you get from TCSS

Speaking from experience, Hedgehog's suggestion is perfect: a LEDEngine with mixed blue and white makes an awesome "Arctic Blue" or "Silver" blade...

The LEDEngine isn't exactly a beginners LED, but it's not too difficult to use if you are patient and have some previous soldering skills.

Pretinning the pads and prewarming the base of the star before soldering and always using leaded not lead-free solder and adding a little soldering flux helps. Good Luck.

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Originally Posted by Onli-Won Kanomi

Pretinning the pads and prewarming the base of the star before soldering and always using leaded not lead-free solder and adding a little soldering flux helps. Good Luck.

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and if your going to be working with an LEDengin READ THIS Thread, it will save you some headache. You'll be able to learn from reading what others learned by experience, it'll most likely save you some time also.

Just gotta say, get you a cyan Rebel and some Lee Filters and try every light blue filter possible to get this color. I've done it before with my other guys' stuff. Pretty cool. I'm thinking Pea**** Blue would do it maybe. Just a suggestion.

Get a Tri-Rebel BBW and mix the Blues with the white.

Done. Artic Blue.