Replacement Electroluminescent Sheet
:confused:Hello!
As a favor for a friend, I am repairing an older (i.e., non-warranty supported) Master Replicas Luke Skywalker Lightsaber Force FX Collectible (P/N SW-203S; SKU 36453 00050) that he purchased several years ago. The polypropylene blade snapped at the hilt during light handling (very light handling!) and the electroluminescent (EL) sheet became damaged. He attempted to have the Lightsaber repaired at Master Replicas when it was initially damaged, but he was informed that they no longer supported repair issues for that particular design. The product information on the EL sheet is as follows:
P/N: C5413YG
DESC: LT SBR Green
MFG: NOVATECH INC
DOM: 0703 117203
The sheet is approximately 32-5/8” long by 3-5/16” wide and is green in color. I measured the output from the inverter that energizes the EL Sheet and it measures approximately 70 VAC. I would like to obtain a replacement El sheet, since the one I currently have has multiple delaminations of the phosphor coating which show up as dark splotches when energized. Can anyone help me track down a replacement sheet? Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. I have re-engineered the Lightsaber so that the blade can be screwed on and off and the replacement EL sheet is the last item I need to complete the project. Please let me know. Thank you!
--Michael Petner
Replacement Electroluminescent Sheet
Thanks Jedi-Loreen for the recommendation to contact BeingSeen.com. I contacted them over a month ago and was playing 'phone-tag' with one of the salesmen for a couple of weeks, but I never spoke to anyone in person. I am intrigued by your recommendation to use EL wire. Is it as bright as the EL sheet? Also, you asked about my re-engineering of my friend's saber: basically I machined two circular aluminum pieces for the inside of the saber and two circular aluminum pieces for the bottom of the polycarbonate tube. Each of the two pieces is separated from one another (concentrically) by a middle layer of epoxy filled with phenolic microballoons (i.e., an insulated region) which separates the two circuit paths (I hope you can follow this description). The center saber piece is tapped to accept a threaded screw and the center polycarbonate blade piece has a threaded screw. Consequently, you can screw the blade into the hilt to obtain your two (2) circuit paths. If you want, I'll supply pictures.
Do you think if I use the EL wire I'll need different circuitry in the saber? Let me know. Thanks!
-Mike
:)