Ok ive looked at the manual and on the forum (sorry if I have missed it) but where does the rice port get soldered to on the PC 2.0?

Thanks for any direction.

Tweeder

This will be my 3rd time trying to make this post. My PC keeps freezing and i got to log in over and over. So this is th Nightstick. It has a P4 white LED a MR Anikan emitter a suede handle from a wash rag and powered by one 14500 li-ion bat. I did use a TCSS box and button, but switched the led to blue. Oh and a cheapo Vader board w/ a TCSS speaker.
Sorry for the rushed post but like said...Thank you fro lookin, and let me know what'cha think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcSV-3kxBjo











Thanks guys!!

Ok so heres all that i have in my basket
4AA Battery Holder
Convertec Clip
LED "Crobin style" Battle Blade 1" OD (34 inches)
Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
Seoul P4 (Green)
Seoul P4 lens holder
8-32 x 1/8" set screw (for blade retention)
150ohm 1/4w resistor
star thermal tape pad
ribbed grooved/choke combo
LED blade holder style 20
MHS "new style" heat sink
MPS Pommel style 8
Drill & Tap hole (8-32) for the convertec clip
Drill & Tap hole (8-32) for the retention hole
Hilt style 3 with standard style switch hole
3/16" ID Black O-Ring
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
Activation box style 6
Drill & Tap hole (6-32) for the activation box
6-32 socket head cap screw

Those are all my pieces. Please let me know if i should change/add/remove anything. THANKS!!!

Hello,

Recently I started making sink pipe saber hilts just for decoration and gifts. I've made a few, but only 1 had any kind of LEDs and they were just accents. I'm looking to figure out how to add a blade (removable if possible) to one of the hilts and possibly sound effects.

My hilts use 1 1/2" sink pipes. What would I need to be able to attach a blade? I saw the MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter, but wasn't sure that would be all I needed to add a blade.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

These are the ones I've made so far. I figure because of how I constructed them, I might not be able to adapt these to add a blade...but figure I can build another like similar.
IMAG0230.jpg
IMAG0362.jpg

Attached Images

• IMAG0230.jpg (24.8 KB)
• IMAG0362.jpg (19.8 KB)

Greetings,

Now that I have finished building my astromech I thought I'd try a saber. Would someone mind eyeballing this to make sure I am not forgetting anything?

Blade holder, style 11
MPS pommel, style 8
Hilt, style 4, guarded
MHS speaker and battery holder
Petit 2.0
2w speaker
TCSS battle blade
Rebel Star Pre-Wired LED & MHS Heatsink Module
Guarded switch
22ga wire

Unless I can use activation box 14 in that and then I would want to add the necessary components for it. Would all of that fit in there?

I got a modular electronics kit about a month ago, and have hardly touched the lightsaber since. Yesterday, the Buckpuck began ignoring the switch and leaving the LED on all the time regardless. I'm in a bit of a bind since this is supposed to be a present for my girlfriend tomorrow. It's a 6-wire 1000mA buckpuck, a 6V battery pack, a white Luxeon Reb star, and a latching guarded switch. What's going on and what can I do to fix it when I can't track down a single store that has either a replacement buckpuck or an appropriate resistor?

Thanks,
Ramsay

Can someone make one last check over my list before I purchase my saber:
7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole
MHS choke style 3
Screw on LED blade holder style 9
MHS "new style" Heat Sink
MPS Pommel style 6
Main Body Powder Coating (Wet Black)
SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
Dual 24 gauge wire (sold by the foot)
3/32" Heatshrink tubing
LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit
8-32 x .3" red thumb screw
MPS Clip
MPS Insert style 8

I think I have everything I need to get started.SaberBuilder_render.jpg

Attached Images

• SaberBuilder_render.jpg (9.1 KB)

My girlfriend and i have been playing way too much swtor lately. One day my girlfriend turned to me and asked to make her a saber for her birthday. I asked what style she liked and she looked for all of about three seconds and she saw sloths and boshwans satele sabers and she was hooked on that design. I used to have access to that kind of machinery but no longer since i was caught cutting a saber they have revoked my lab access. That really sucked. Knowing this she still liked that design so i tried my best to come up with and appropriate design with mhs parts.



What its made from:
2-five inch extentions
2-plain trim rings
2-style 22 blade holders
1-double male sections
2-blue rebel stars
2-mws 1000mA buckpucks
2-30" tcss battle blades with bullet tips
The whole thing is about 60" long. She was a little hesitant about the length because she is five foot tall.

She wanted each end to be able to standalone(turn one end off while the other stays on).I have the emitter fins designed and plan on getting them machined and possibly welded to the blade holder(not sure about this but there are about a thousand shops around me that weld on aluminum). I also have scolling designed but have yet to be approved by the girlfriend. On sateles saber in the hope trailer she has scrolling on her hilt and that was also something that she wanted.

I am slightly new to the world of making sabers, so I just have a few questions about MR/ Hasbro soundboards. I am skilled enough to use a petit crouton, which I did in my Luke ANH saber, but I would like to use the MR Luke ROTJ soundboard for another saber I have in the works. My question: Why do MR/Hasbro soundboards have all those seperate LED wires? I plan to make an LED string blade, so I just want to know what all of those wires mean? Obviously for a conversion to a Seoul P4, for instance, one of those brightly colored wires is the positive and the rest go to the negative. I know this from looking at the conversion threads. But why are there so many wires?

first off im new to the forum so im not sure if this is where to post this. Does TCSS offer a service to drill the hole for the covertec wheel? i cant seem to find it and im lacking a drill to do it myself

Hello everybody,

i want to use a pli with a PC. I also use a kill key.
Everything wired like in the PC manual. only the pli + to the board and battery+ and the pli - to the board -.

Here is my problem.

I want the pli to always show the battery level. When i pull the kill key everythings works fine. PLI works great. but when i ignite the saber the pli drops down to last led.
Is there a way so that the pli always shows the battery level, either the saber is on or not?

thank you!

Hello guys so I am currently building my first saber. I have little experience so I am using the MWS. I want to eventually add sound, but I had some questions about the PC. I would likely purchase the JST pre-wired version since I am no expert. Do I need to have clash or swing sensors too or does the soundboard have those because I have no experience with clash or swing sensors. Also do I need to purchase an RGB LED that supports FoC? What else would I need to purchase to ensure that the FoC and sound would work with MWS? Thanks to anyone who takes the time to help! :)

So i'm still pretty green on the saber making front, i've done several stunts but thats about it. i've seen people talk/use chassis a lot in their sabers. and maybe since im a visual learner instead of a reading learner i'm missing the obvious. but my question is, when using a chassis, i'm assuming you're making the chassis only long enough for the battery pack/soundboard? or wouldnt you end up hitting switch wires/leads from hang down? of course if you use a switch box, then wouldnt the wires still interfer with the chassis? or is the chassis more of a permanent thing and you put it in, and then your switch? but then again wouldnt that negate being able to slide the chassis outwards if you needed to?

again sorry if im just missing it, but that was confusing me a good bit lol.

Thanks
Jhad

Daft question but do the JST connectors in the store come pre wired or do you just get the plastic connectors?

Hi guys, I've always wanted one but being young I never had the money (They were around £100) and had to settle on getting the .45 scale versions, now I'm earning :) finally last week I picked up an old Master Replicas Darth Vader 2003 one for £40 (Bargain), I've been looking around for others, but in the UK the only place I've found that still has any for sale is Forbidden planet and they only have Kit Fistos. Does anyone know of any other shops or a good online retailer? Or any advice on buying?

In particular I'm looking for the Hasbro Obi Wan TPM (My favourite) and ROTS, Darth Maul, Anakins from AOTC and ROTS, possibly Yodas, Mace Windus, The Counts, and Ventress.

Any suggestions are appreciated,
Dan