Ultrasound 2.5 wiring video

[Ki-Djowac]

Hello folks,
just thought i'd post a video i made recently on how to wire and install ultrasound 2.5

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jC5TVEA953o

LED only video :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nON6UnLSmGI

Thought it might be helpful for some basic saber construction.

[FenderBender]

Great videos man! Im sure that should help new people a lot. Though I hope none of them will think that it will only take them 10 minutes to do. Especially on the first try:D

[Blade-Rave]

seriously, WHY CAN'T THERE BE ANY MORE ULTRASOUND BOARDS?!?!?!?!?!?!?! T_T

I'd definitely order one without a second thought if I knew there were some remaining, and I'd install it into my first MHS saber..... that first video is so explanatory that I'd be able to do it without a hitch, given I got that exact same tool with the little clamps.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Because Nova Conceptions doesn't want to make anymore sound boards for UltraSabers, that's why.



Nice videos.

[xl97]

VERY nice vids..

(intro style looks familar) :)

I like your video shooting 'style' as well.

[Blade-Rave]

Because Nova Conceptions doesn't want to make anymore sound boards for UltraSabers, that's why.



Nice videos.

forgot to add "[/Sarcasm]" since I've already read up that they don't want to continue it. Though seeing the video just makes you wish they'd do one more run of the 2.5s before they'd completely give it up. -_-'

[Strydur]

It is a good thing trust me.. We shall have balance in the force soon.

[cardcollector]

Any more of this TCSS soundboard suspense and I'm going to have a Coronary!:p:rolleyes:

[Blade-Rave]

if it's progress, it's more than welcomed of course. my MHS Hilt, which I'm considering remaking, is becoming more of a reality every day. :D

[Dakarn]

It is a good thing trust me.. We shall have balance in the force soon.

I love the word soon.

[Kal El Rah]

Very nice vids. Question ... did you use any thermal paste/tape between the led base and the heat sink?:confused:

[Count Malik]

It is a good thing trust me.. We shall have balance in the force soon.

yes master...8) haha jk i never owned a ultra sound board so, i don't know how good nor bad they are. But if Tim says its a good thing, its a good thing! haha Because we all know Tim knows best for us with-in this "powerfully" addicting hobby of ours! haha but back on topic... Thanks for posting the tutorials!:cool:

[Ki-Djowac]

Very nice vids. Question ... did you use any thermal paste/tape between the led base and the heat sink?:confused:

Yes i did, since the saber was an upgrade of my LED only saber the thermal tape was already there.

Thanks for all the positive comments guys, glad you like the videos.

[Blade-Rave]

one thing I was wondering. even though you used a red switch, would this kind of guide still help if I were to try and mount an illuminated AntiVandal Switch into a saber and include the ultrasound as well so that it doesn't touch the metal contacts of the switch and thus fry the board? I designed an MHS hilt that's about 15.7 inches long overall and has SOME room below the switch hole, but I dunno. if I get any sort of board I was sort of wondering if there's any precautions besides what you've shown in the video that I should try to take.

[Ki-Djowac]

one thing I was wondering. even though you used a red switch, would this kind of guide still help if I were to try and mount an illuminated AntiVandal Switch into a saber and include the ultrasound as well so that it doesn't touch the metal contacts of the switch and thus fry the board? I designed an MHS hilt that's about 15.7 inches long overall and has SOME room below the switch hole, but I dunno. if I get any sort of board I was sort of wondering if there's any precautions besides what you've shown in the video that I should try to take.

Good question. I have been wondering that myself too. Here's what i'm thinking : tcss has "bezels" for that since i think that most illuminated switches won't fit standard alu tubing.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bezel-for-illuminated-switches-P448.aspx
As for the position of the switch : there is no room in my opinion to place a pcb under most type of regular switches. I'd also recommend to always use heat shrink on the contacts of the switch after wiring is soldered.

[ecko]

I was just wondering what you used for the Power Regulator? Would it be similar to the LED Drivers?

[Ki-Djowac]

I was just wondering what you used for the Power Regulator? Would it be similar to the LED Drivers?

You can wire the main LED directly to the Ultrasound 2.5 PCB as you can see in the vid. No need for an additional power regulator.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

How many cups of coffee did you drink before you wired that saber? LOL Great videos. Thanks for taking the time to make them.

[ecko]

You can wire the main LED directly to the Ultrasound 2.5 PCB as you can see in the vid. No need for an additional power regulator.

Oh sorry I should have been more specific.
I was questioning the second vid "LED only". Since I cannot get my hands on an Ultrasound.

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

It is a good thing trust me.. We shall have balance in the force soon.

"soon" - 4 little letters but very welcome ones...of course "soon" is a relative term, but still encouraging to hear and now we must just exercise a little Jedi Patience eh?...ah well the um Overlord Matter ;-) has been a good teacher of that...

[Ki-Djowac]

Oh sorry I should have been more specific.
I was questioning the second vid "LED only". Since I cannot get my hands on an Ultrasound.

Ok, i see.

That would be a power regulator for Luxeon III provided by the company in the description of the vid (i do not know if i'm able to mention that name here). However, there is also the possibility to use a resistor as you can see in the vid of the custom saber shop channel. Both work fine.

And then there is the possibility of waiting for a new type of sound board like Onli-Won Kanomi mentioned.;)

[Bluerolla]

Yes i did, since the saber was an upgrade of my LED only saber the thermal tape was already there.

Thanks for all the positive comments guys, glad you like the videos.

is it ok not to use thermal tape? or is it a must? will i fry something?:(

[Ki-Djowac]

is it ok not to use thermal tape? or is it a must? will i fry something?:(

I'd say its a must. LED's always need to stay as cool as possible. It will function without tape, but the lifespan of you main LED will probably be a lot shorter.

[Bluerolla]

I'd say its a must. LED's always need to stay as cool as possible. It will function without tape, but the lifespan of you main LED will probably be a lot shorter.
O.K. i will have to order some hehe thanks for the help.:D

[Ki-Djowac]

O.K. i will have to order some hehe thanks for the help.:D

No problem, good luck with your saber.

[DarthSerious]

Awesome video! One of the best I have seen!

[Ki-Djowac]

Hello people,
last weekend i've upgraded previous saber. Here's the vid :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0XH6PghRUU

Build log :
I started the build with the idea of running the rumble motor directly from the L1/L2 solder pads on the US 2.5 pcb. For some reason this did not work because of a major voltage drop as soon as i connected motor to the US 2.5 pcb. Either L1 or L2 did not work. So i had to rethink my strategy for the rumble motor and decided to wire it directly to the main voltage supply after the kill-switch. This way it starts rumbling as soon as i unplug the kill switch. Not my original idea, but a decent solution nevertheless.

Secondly, i now had 2 choices for illuminating the red ring on my DPDT momentary switch. I decided to go with the L1 on the US 2.5 pcb. L1 mimics the main LED on the switch. L2 gives it a idle flashing mode. The LED can be wired directly to the pcb so no resistor needed here.

Cramming all of this new wiring in the same hilt prooved to be a new challenge and i had to create some new space in the same saber somehow. I decided to do this with cutting down the threading on the pommel and adding an extra O-ring on the pommel part (I gained about 5 to 6 mm extra space with this). This way the battery/speaker combo could remain the same and everything remains duel worthy. Keeping it duel worthy somehow was my goal from the very beginning.

No more heat shrink. Got a lot of comment to avoid heat shrinking US 2.5 pcb due to possible overheating, so i decided to invest in a hot glue gun which opened up new possibilities. The US 2.5 pcb sits sturdy on the battery pack and the main contacts are hot glued also to prevent short circuiting just in case it should come off somehow. Hot glued the speaker wire to the battery holder for a cleaner look too.

The rumble motor was hot glued inside the choke as well with it's moving part facing towards the main LED. I also decided to use some hot glue on the fragile connections of the motor for extra strength. The rumble motor sits sturdy inside the choke part. Only thing to keep in mind is that when i got the main LED in place, i had to turn it so there were no touching wires to the moving part of the motor. I did it while having batteries in place and the kill-switch unplugged. This way i knew when it was touching wires (no harm done, the motor just stops turning). Placing the lens holder and emitter was done right after that.

Greetz