Updated Hasbro soundboard queston

[Yama-Blu Kitsu]

Greetings all,

I've done a lot of research on hooking up an led to a hasbro soundboard. Skytrackers threads haves been very helpful, however I need some help on the newer soundboard because I'm a little confused about wiring since most of the info posted seems to be on an older soundboard. I purchased an Anakin force action lightsaber (not color changing) and removed the soundboard. I'm planing on using this with a Seoul P4 blue led, I've seen most have used a Cree but will the Seoul work with this board? I'd like to get a better understanding of the correct wiring so I know what I'm doing when I order the parts. Any help appreciated, here's a picture of the board>

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t147/JB1017_01/015.jpg

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Those wire up the same way. You don't use the brown and blue OFF wires. The P4s work great with those too.

[Skottsaber]

Yeah those LED's work great with the force action board. I asked a similar question in my parts list thread:http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9945

You can run the LED straight off of the board wires. I would also recommend a TCSS premium speaker and mount and run the board off of 4xAA batteries. This is what I will be doing when my parts arrive so I will give you more info then.

EDIT: Darn! I almost got there first. Oh well, yeah if you didn't know those brown and blue wires that go to the smaller switch are for when you shove the blade back in and it turns off - something I never discovered before hacking my Vader to bits lol

[Yama-Blu Kitsu]

Thank you both for the quick response...Ok I'll try it again I tried the purple and red wires to the led but it didnt work...already heard about the TCSS speaker and soldered it on:wink:

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The purple and red wires are for the LED. The red is + and the purple is -.

[Yama-Blu Kitsu]

yeah sorry I should have been more specific in my last post... I soldered red to + and purple to - and still nothing...but I'm going to try it again could have been lose or something.

[Yama-Blu Kitsu]

I had to fix the battery connection but I got it working, looks awesome!:D
Thank you both:cool:

[Rhyen Skytracker]

No problem, glad to help.

[Skottsaber]

Nice to see you got it working. Any pics or videos?

[Yama-Blu Kitsu]

I wish lol I got everything hooked up, but I'm gonna be switching out led kits on my hilts and I'm waiting for parts to arrive for my 2nd hilt so I can move my lux V into the new hilt and use my current MHS hilt for the Seoul P4 blue. Here's the link to check out my current MHS hilt>
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9980

[FenderBender]

Just a quick suggestion on these boards. The wires/wiring SUCKS! They use the crappiest wire possible and just clipping and connecting to the existing wires will probably lead to some problems. I would highly suggest de-soldering the old wires and soldering in all new ones to the board. This way you also get the benefit of choosing the color scheme for your connections.

[Dakarn]

Another solution for cruddy board connections (if your not that good of a solderer) is to hot glue the solder points so the wires are attached by that as well.

[Skottsaber]

That won't help when stripping them, though. I've cut through centimeters of wire trying to strip the things so I might as well just replace them :rolleyes:

[Darthcestus]

i am ordering the part to my first saber within a couple of days and then the electrical parts a couple weeks after. The plan is to use a hasbro sound card, and after several weeks of researching and reading into the early hours of the morning , i am left to conclude:

that i can run a lux3 red/orange directly of a hasbro card with 6v.

is this correct or am i missing something very crucial?

[Jordandau]

A lux 1 would work better. The voltage matches the power setup closely so it will run more efficiently than the lux 3.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The Lux III red/orange will probably not be very bright due to the low current output of the economy hasbro card. The red Lux III needs 1400 mA and the card puts out around 300 - 350 mA. The red P4 works great with it.

[Yama-Blu Kitsu]

Just thought I'd update you guys....

I received a few parts in the mail today included the switch and battery pack I needed to hook up the Seoul P4 to the soundboard. I successfully wired it and its awesome! I'm running it on 4 AA battery's no resistor. Honestly, its hard to tell the difference between this and my Lux V....they seem very close.

I've done some reading around about leds and it seems like Crees are really good for blue. I might end up experimenting with different blue leds....I see that royal blue also seems to be in high demand.

I also got a few parts for my next saber....I wanna do someting different colorwise but I'm not sure what yet.....maybe amber...orange?

[cardcollector]

Royal blue is a very nice color, but is super dim. I would rather use a blue...

Amber/orange are supposed to be the same. But especially with the LUX III, a BIN1 is yellow (very yellow) and a BIN 7 is a very nice pumpkin orange... It is a gamble on what BIN # you get...