Dakarn's "Consilium Laurus" (Hasbro sound)

[Dakarn]

Well this is my first saber so I decided to do an "in progress" build log.

Consilium Laurus means Wise Victory (roughly) in latin, which I thought is particularly fitting for a Jedi.

The specs
Hilt style 2 with standard style switch hole
MHS Gear
Screw on LED blade holder style 12
MHS choke style 1 short
MPS Pommel style 7
1.5" Sink Pipe for shroud

Red/Orange Luxeon III LED
Orange Illuminated Momentary Switch
Hasbro Vader Force Action soundboard and sensors
4 AAA batteries

The wiring uses a Reed Relay to provide the proper voltage to the LED, using cardcollector's wiring diagram. (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=157028&postcount=31)

Since my MS Paint skills are pretty lacking here's a rough outline of what I'm doing:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/CLaurus_Build_1.jpg

I made the 1st cuts on the shroud today. Going to do some dremel work tomorrow and cut out the center sections which are the areas inside of the blue painter's tape marks.

Shroud 1 and 2 Pipes with the initial 30 deg cuts:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1233.jpg

Shroud 1 Top View:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1236.jpg

Shroud 1 Side View:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1235.jpg

And this is my new Chicago 6" cut off saw from Harbor Freight Tool, $37 and can handle 1.5" pipe no problem even though the manual says it can only handle 1".
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1237.jpg

More up as I dremel out the outlined areas and then start the electrical work.

[Dakarn]

Finished the dremeling and rough sanding on the 1st shroud:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1238.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1241.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1242.jpg

Just need to get some fine sandpaper and clean it up a bit. First dremel use I've done in about 6 years. The top U is a tad off so I may try to work on it more but I'm afraid I may just make it worse.

[xl97]

get some files or all sizes, shapes and grits..

this will help square and flatten areas out.

[cardcollector]

The dremel sanding disks are an invaluble tool as well!

[Dakarn]

I've actually sanded the areas out using the dremel sanding disks and fine grain sandpaper and its nice and smooth edge with no jaggies or sharpness - which is great since its the grip area. I just haven't updated the thread yet since I'm on hold.

I'm waiting until I get my order from TCSS because I think my length is off by a 1/2" (too long thankfully) so I want to test fit with the actual pieces before I make more cuts. I also have to find some 0000 steel wool and chrome polish since I used the extra fine sandpaper to clean up a scratch and ended up "spiderweb" scratching the chrome in one spot.

Might do some electrical work and prep the soundboard and relay setup so when I get the LED and illuminated switch it'll be ready to go. I'm tempted to hold off on this too since I don't want to have to redo it if its too long/too short.

I do appreciate the feedback and any other tips, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[cardcollector]

You are being patient, that's good. ;)
You are right...

Measure twice, cut once.

What color are you planning on making it? You mentioned a relay so I'm guessing you are going to use a Hasbro board right?

[Dakarn]

You are being patient, that's good. ;)
You are right...

Measure twice, cut once.

What color are you planning on making it? You mentioned a relay so I'm guessing you are going to use a Hasbro board right?

Barely patient. :)

Its an orange/red Luxeon III and I'm using your diagrams with the Force Action soundboard, the relay and an illuminated orange LED switch. I may solder up some of it tonight or at least prep the board, mounting it up with the wires tinned and getting everything properly attached so I can add the LED, switch and speaker when they get here.

And a stupid question, what terminals do I hook up to on the DPDT momentary illuminated switch? I understand where to hook up for its internal LED but not getting where I should connect to use in my setup. Been reading around but I'm not understanding it.

[cardcollector]

Are you using an Anti-vandal switch?
If so there's a diagram somewhere...
I can't find it right now. Time for some search-fu...

[Dakarn]

Are you using an Anti-vandal switch?
If so there's a diagram somewhere...
I can't find it right now. Time for some search-fu...

Its the DPDT illuminate anti-vandal switch that's sold in the store here.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Momentary-orange-illuminated-switch-P501.aspx

I'm not getting the diagram that's pictured there.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/layout.jpg
I understand where the LED hooks up but I'm not getting which posts to use and after reading several articles out there on the 'net about DPDT switches I'm still mystified. And my search-fu is weak when it comes to this topic. ;)

[EDIT]
I think my search-fu improved - http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=8132&highlight=anti-vandal+switch

So I need to hook to the NO1 and C1 posts, which is the normally open and closed posts.

Let me know if I'm getting it right.

[Jedi-Loreen]

No, the C is for Common. NO is Normally Open. NC is Normally Closed.

You always use the Common post. For our application, you want to also use the Normally Open post, since you don't want your saber on all the time except when you press the switch (like it would be if you hooked up the Normally Closed post).

Does that make sense?

[Dakarn]

No, the C is for Common. NO is Normally Open. NC is Normally Closed.

You always use the Common post. For our application, you want to also use the Normally Open post, since you don't want your saber on all the time except when you press the switch (like it would be if you hooked up the Normally Closed post).

Does that make sense?

Yes, thanks. Its a little bit confusing since I'm rusty, 1st electronics project in about 10 years.

[Dakarn]

Some progress:

My 1st order from TCSS shows up tomorrow hopefully but I'm working both days so get some things done in the evening.

Also, I acquired a Vader ESB Fx board so I had to get a latching AV illuminated switch and rethink the wiring diagram.

Two things I'm concerned about - first, since the orange III is 1400ma am I going to have enough juice to run it brightly with the Fx sound board? And I'm fairly sure I can run it directly from the board without a resistor now.

(Got the 2nd point figured out with the wiring thanks to a Do-Clo post from a few weeks ago)

Mapping out cuts for the shroud around the blade holder and choke and made some cuts into the grip area shroud which I need to work on some more.

Photos coming up tomorrow - brushing the shrouds for the grip and the blade holder tonight to hide some issues I created due to my below average dremel-fu.

[Dakarn]

Updated photos with the finished bottom shroud, the arrival of my MHS pieces and a test fitting.

I ended up brushing the shrouds because of some marks I made with the dremel - my dremel-fu is weak. I like the look though, the top shroud still needs to be cut and brushed some more to better match the bottom one.

Onto the photos:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1247.jpg
The MHS pieces arrive!

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1249.jpg
Brushed chrome shroud - 3/4 view

Test fitting - its about 3/4" too long so back to the cut off it goes.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1253.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1254.jpg

Next up - finish the top shroud off and get the electronics together within the next few days.

[Dakarn]

Got both of my overlays done! So it was test fitting time!

Top View
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/DSCF1256.jpg

3/4 View
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/DSCF1260.jpg

Close up of the Blade Holder Overlay
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/DSCF1257.jpg

Next up - drilling and electronics. Going to use a step bit to open up the switch hole to 5/8" for the AV illuminated switch and bezel and then the wiring commences.

I'm tempted to drill it without a drill press but I think that's going to be a disaster.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Looks great so far. Keep up the good work and don't rush it. Take your time to make sure you don't make mistakes.

[Dakarn]

It lives!

Wired it up and worked on the 1st try. Forgot to wire in the resistor for the AV illuminated switch but it worked fine, going to do that tomorrow.

It's Alive!
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1287.jpg

The barely illuminated switch
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1288.jpg

Wiring
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1286.jpg

More Wiring
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1283.jpg

One question - the lens and lens holder are giving me fits. I know to cut off the tabs on the lens holder so it fits, but how do I mount the holder to the copper heat sink effectively?

Next up - wire in the resistor for the illuminated switch, buy a drill press and put some holes into the hilt then get it all actually into the hilt!

[Ki-Djowac]

Hi, if these are all MHS parts, there is no need for any glue or stuff like that.

I got some videos on youtube where it's in there, in this topic : http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9994

The lensholder is basically dropped into place on the copper heatsink, the copper heatsink is placed in the choke and then the emitter part holds everything tight into place when screwing that on. One tip : hold your finger through the emitter part and on the lens so you feel the pressure when screwing the emitter into place. You'll see.

[Dakarn]

Hi, if these are all MHS parts, there is no need for any glue or stuff like that.

I got some videos on youtube where it's in there, in this topic : http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9994

The lensholder is basically dropped into place on the copper heatsink, the copper heatsink is placed in the choke and then the emitter part holds everything tight into place when screwing that on. One tip : hold your finger through the emitter part and on the lens so you feel the pressure when screwing the emitter into place. You'll see.

Thanks! Just to add, the LED star solder points (not your wiring solder points) should be at a 90 degree angle to the mounting holes for the lens holder to fit properly according to a Jaygon and Loreen last night.

So I'm resoldering the LED this evening and adding the resister for the AV switch LED which I forgot in my excitement. Then finally drill the mounting points for the shrouds, get all that wiring inside the hilt and solder the AV switch leads to the switch.

[Count Malik]

its lookin good, can't wait to see more!!:p

[Dakarn]

its lookin good, can't wait to see more!!:p

Thanks, I can't wait either!

Just a quick update, shortened the wiring and resoldered the LED mounting last night. The lens fits ok, used some hot glue at the 2 mounting niches to hold it down, think I'm going with 10deg lenses from now on because of the fit issue.

I put in and then took out the resistor for the AV switch LED after reading the specs on the one I got - it doesn't need it.

Soldered up some short leads on the switch to make it easier to work with then got everything setup and put the LED assembly in the holder:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1289.jpg

Lights Out!
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1290.jpg

Also put the blade into the holder but forgot to get a photo - got the 1" heavy blade and its good but it needs some cellophane to even it out a bit.

Put the hilt together, wrapped it all in painter's tape and marked out my holes so I can drill and tap them this morning. Then I'll hot glue up the sound card sled, get it all mounted and it'll be done!

[FenderBender]

Lookin' good man, lookin' good:D I like the clean wiring, makes me happy for the future of the hobby:D

Nice work on the shrouds too! Definately not bad for a first attempt.

[Dakarn]

The Hilt is complete!

Just need to cut down the screws and fasteners, polish it up and install the electronics.

Some photos:

Top:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1295.jpg

Front:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1292.jpg

Side:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1293.jpg

Back:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1294.jpg

Hopefully done by tomorrow...

[Dakarn]

Wrapped the build today and I'm happy with the final result.

Cut down some screws to the proper length and then did the electronics "cram" which resulted in me having to un-cram it and fix a crossed wire issue that somehow happened in the sled. Reassembled everything, soldered it up and...

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n234/coasterg/Consilium%20Laurus%20Lightsaber%20Build/DSCF1302.jpg

Has one issue with the soundboard repeating swings, need to reorient the board which I'll do later.

That's the thick walled TCSS blade btw - needs a layer of clear wrap to distribute the light better.

Next saber in a bit, now that I have all the tools - ended up purchasing a cut off tool and drill press from Harbor Freight, both work well for hobbyists.

Thanks to everyone - especially Do-Clo, FenderBender, Jedi-Loreen, Rhys and everyone else who helped out with my various questions. And to Jaygon-Jinn and his awesome video series which really got me started on building this in the first place.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Nice job!

[Marius423]

Love the shroud you did. It gives the whole thing a very nice clean look. Gratz

[Sairon]

Love the shroud you did. It gives the whole thing a very nice clean look. Gratz

Ditto, lol :)