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Mobius
12-06-2009, 10:25 AM
I was going to purchase all the needed bits to convert my MR ESB Vader to Luxeon as per the posted MR conversion guide but I see that TCS no longer carries any red LEDs besides the Seoul p4.

Is this a true red LED or does it use a filter? also will this work as a direct swap for the luxeon or is there something else needed.

Thanks in advance

Invisas1979
12-06-2009, 12:03 PM
Best bet is to ask Tim.

Last time there wasn't a red select botton in the shop he said to me he was out of stock when I asked. Chances are he's out of stock.

Mobius
12-06-2009, 01:25 PM
Got it... an email has been dispatched.

would would you think that there is a terribly large difference between the seoul and the luxeon?

Kal El Rah
12-06-2009, 01:54 PM
The LUX III red runs 190 lm at 2.95 vf at 1400-1500 ma,

the P4 red runs about 140 lm at 2.3 vf at 1000 ma, almost as bright but less amp draw which will be a longer runtime depending on your battery solution and soundboard if any.

Mobius
12-06-2009, 02:44 PM
So if I only want to replace the blade assembly to LED so that I can have a removable blade for trooping. the seoul should work just fine with the other components of the MR conversion kit thread with no additional buckpucks or anything needing to be ordered, the 3 AA battery cell that it takes will work fine?

Kal El Rah
12-06-2009, 03:38 PM
So if I only want to replace the blade assembly to LED so that I can have a removable blade for trooping. the seoul should work just fine with the other components of the MR conversion kit thread with no additional buckpucks or anything needing to be ordered, the 3 AA battery cell that it takes will work fine?

Yes, no buckpuck just use the red p4 and your golden, the LUXIII/V lens holder will work, depending on the blade length you choose a 5* lens would be my pick.

Mobius
12-06-2009, 04:04 PM
Ill be keeping my stock blade for budget sake at the moment and I had already planned on a 5 deg lens

Thanks a lot everyone, I really appreciate it.

Mobius
12-07-2009, 06:11 AM
One more question... Will I need a piece of that thermal tape or will this work just fine like the tutorial says with the Lux/Seoul sitting right up against the heatsink?

thanks again

FenderBender
12-07-2009, 06:51 AM
You should at least use thermal paste, though it is recommended to use the tape to isolate the led from the heatsink. Sometimes red families of leds have grounding issues (haven't had it myself, knock on wood). I would also go with the 10* lens instead o the 5. It will fill the blade better and doesn't need to be modified to fit the holder.

Mobius
12-07-2009, 07:11 AM
I notice that some of the ones that people do seem to be beautifully bright about half way and then are really dim and then bright again at the end. Is this because of the degree viewing angle or something else?

can anyone show a pic difference between 5deg and 10deg?

thanks

FenderBender
12-07-2009, 08:44 AM
Its mostly caused by a poor blade. You should roll some poly-P and put it in that stock blade if you intend to keep it for a while. The lens Degree is also a cause of this albeit a small one.

Mobius
12-09-2009, 01:29 PM
Forgive me beating a dead horse here...

If the P4 red runs about 140 lm at 2.3 vf at 1000 ma, and the FX boards put out 3 volts how likely is it that Ill blow the p4? I mean if Im looking at a difference of almost 1 volt couldnt this pose a bit of a problem or will it just make it run brighter for less hours?

FenderBender
12-09-2009, 02:31 PM
Haven't had that happen in a LONG time. If you're worried about it, put a resistor on it, but I doubt you'll have that problem with it though. I direct drive my red PVC stunts on 3v with no resistor and have yet to have one blow......191 PVC stunts later;)

Mobius
12-09-2009, 07:43 PM
Well the parts came today and I have successfully converted my ESB Vader to a Seoul P4. It looks great except I find that now I really dont care for the stock blade. perhaps when I have a bit more funds Ill order the corbin battle blade.

Can someone suggest a way for me to take out the white core of the FX saber and keep the brightness? is it true that the corbin blades use a filter that is similar to cellophane? What would happen if I lined my stock blade with cellophane?

Pics:
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x121/krhurrl/IMG_0942.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x121/krhurrl/IMG_0945.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x121/krhurrl/IMG_0947.jpg

I don't have any superglue at the moment so I have yet to reattach the wire greeblies.

Thoughts?