2001 AOTC anikan sound board hook up!

[astromech_kuhns]

hey all trying to get the saber wired up completely tomorrow while i have the chance. i looked but did not find. i need by tomorrow morning, pics on how to wire this thing up. its late so i have to head to bed for school, but in the morning i am going to check back in.

its a hasbro and year and saber are as stated in title. there may be a thread round here but i did not find. there was a dooku one for the same year but it is a bit diffrent.

here are the pics i have.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2744/4154402141_3392c0d2ac_m.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2552/4155163758_5ccc88ff9c_m.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2774/4155163698_d8a0fb6f33_m.jpg

sorry for the last picture i cant get it any better. and sorry for such short notice just got it today.

thank you guys and thanks to anyone that can help!

[cardcollector]

we need a better picture.

One that is directly on the board.

your switch wiring is going to be tricky...

[astromech_kuhns]

we need a better picture.

One that is directly on the board.

your switch wiring is going to be tricky...

will try to do. ill get one tonight.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Since your switch contacts are directly on the board, you're going to have to solder wired to the appropriate spots on the board itself.

Jay-gon has a pic of how to do that somewhere here. Search through his posts to find it.

But yeah, we need better, and bigger pics of your board.

Some wires should be self-evident, like the speaker and battery input.

[astromech_kuhns]

actually there is a swing sensor and clash sensor which are attached to it and then it is connected to the speaker as well. but then there switch on the back i have to solder to, now, there is a yellow and red wire coming off the board. those might either go to the battery or the LED, but then there is no wires to the other.

[Vos Malek]

It looks like a soundcard from a toy lightsaber. If so checkout this thread.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=7587
It has lots of helpful info for hooking up these soundboards. But it gets complicated with the more powerful leds.

[astromech_kuhns]

yes, i have seen that, but my switch is located on the back, and the board is a different set up, i stated in the first post i have not found this board with searching for it.

[astromech_kuhns]

pictures are here. alright better ones!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2683/4164088998_81f4012318_m.jpg
that is of the back of the board, i know that i need to put the switch on the traces there that look like 2 3's facing opposite of each other.

here are a couple images of the front of the board, best i could get.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2512/4164089066_aca113df37_m.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2597/4164089114_7cdab6cbb4_m.jpg


now there are some wires coming out the board.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2587/4163329721_5a7eaef0ea_m.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2742/4163329557_40aef715fd_m.jpg

so the two grey wires to the right clip to the swing sensor, the black wire on the left goes to the clash sensor, the grey wire on the left that is unhooked goes to the speaker along with the one that is on it, and then there are the two wires that i am not sure what they go to, the red and yellow, this could be where the splicing the "Y" into the wires come into play from the tutorial linked to in this thread, but they arent the same boards so i am unsure.

the two leads i need left are the LED ones and the battery ones so im guessing the red and yellow ones go to one of them.

thanks everyone!

[Jedi-Loreen]

The pics need to be BIGGER so we can actually see the board.

[Vos Malek]

Now that you have bigger pics up it looks pretty similar to the 2001 Dooku board that you saw in the other thread. It looks essentially the same. Right down to the colors of the wires. I would try to wire it that way.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Since your switch contacts are directly on the board, you're going to have to solder wired to the appropriate spots on the board itself.

Jay-gon has a pic of how to do that somewhere here. Search through his posts to find it.

But yeah, we need better, and bigger pics of your board.

Some wires should be self-evident, like the speaker and battery input.
Searching for the post with that pic might take forever, so i'll save him the trouble of looking for it:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/000_0778-1.jpg
The white wires are the switch wires in that pic.

[cardcollector]

I wouls use the same wiring as the count dukoo board. They were both made in the same year so they probabley are exacly the same in wiring... Just different colored wires.;)

If you use follow the swith leads you will see that they are connected to solder joints.

I reccomend that you solder to those instead of the E's

[astromech_kuhns]

i did find this: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9010&highlight=2001+count+dooku+sound+board

i was looking at a diffrent thread on it without good clear pics.

i still have a question, the black wire i think he was referring to was attached to a piece of metal with a spring on it, is that the same wire i put to the negative lead of the battery? and also, the red positive wire, i still have that, but why would i have it connect to both the board and the LED at once? i take and put the red lead on the board and the one on the battery pack and i put it onto a red wire i have which i then attach to the LED, but for what reason?

[Vos Malek]

Yes the black wire is the battery negative. The spring was used in the toy saber to make a connection with the batteries. You have to Y the battery positive to the board and led because the soundboard doesn't have a led positive wire coming directly off of it. In the toy saber, the red wire would come off the board, travel up the saber to the battery positive contact, then up to the lamp. That was basically just to save wire. Some of the newer toy sabers, like the force action sabers, have positive and negative leads.

[astromech_kuhns]

ok, will do, i should have all wired up by tomorrow then! more or less wanting to know why the current didnt just do the LED and board in series. dont make no actual difference though.