PDA

View Full Version : Final Check



Rafalema
11-29-2009, 05:54 AM
Parts:

Electronics:
US 2.5
Build Your Own Lux III (White LED)
Luxeon III red (I know I will have to Lux's)
2 JST Connectors
Premium speaker


MHS:
7" Fluted main body with guarded switch hole
LED Blade holder style 16
Ribbed Extension V-grooved
Pommel style 7
Insert style 1 and 5
MPS clip

Others:
Stainless covertec clip
Powder coating x 4
1" hilt safety plug
8-32 x 3/8" socket head (Covertec screw)
8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw (Blade securing screw)
Drill & Tap hole 8-32 (Covertec)
Drill & Tap hole 8-32 (Blade securing)
Black covertec button
1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube (For overlay[s] and decoration)
25 Black O-Rings (Sealing, Decoration)
12 Colored Disks (For White LED)
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (38 inches & Quad Wrap)
SPST Momentary Guarded switch with silver button
MHS Speaker Mount V2
Replica MPP clamp


That's it. What do you think?
Is this all I need?

I know that the MPP clamp isn't in the render because it's "maybe part".
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3320/desing15inchkopio.jpg

Invisas1979
11-29-2009, 07:03 AM
This looks good parts wise, don't think you'll need anything else.

What is your battery solution/set up?

Rafalema
11-29-2009, 07:11 AM
This looks good parts wise, don't think you'll need anything else.

What is your battery solution/set up?

4 AA normal, not rechargeable. (yet)

Crystal Chambers
11-29-2009, 07:33 AM
Hehe...you need some wire.

I suggest you work out your wiring plan and order some quick connects that have wire attached. They work great. The wire is small which helps when packing around a battery pack and soundboard and you can get them in 2, 4, and 6 wire groupings that suit your wiring layout. It makes switching your LEDs a breeze.

That's a real long saber. The hilt is plenty long and the blade is huge. Most people don't go over 36" and the longer the blade the more difficult it is to swing without hitting the ground and light it up evenly. Especially with a corbin blade. Most people recommend 10 degree lenses for you LED especially in your case.

Good call on the drill/tap service. Drilling straight is harder then it looks.

Rafalema
11-29-2009, 07:38 AM
Hehe...you need some wire.

I suggest you work out your wiring plan and order some quick connects that have wire attached. They work great. The wire is small which helps when packing around a battery pack and soundboard and you can get them in 2, 4, and 6 wire groupings that suit your wiring layout. It makes switching your LEDs a breeze.

That's a real long saber. The hilt is plenty long and the blade is huge. Most people don't go over 36" and the longer the blade the more difficult it is to swing without hitting the ground and light it up evenly. Especially with a corbin blade. Most people recommend 10 degree lenses for you LED especially in your case.

Good call on the drill/tap service. Drilling straight is harder then it looks.

I know about the wire, I have some myself. I thank you from your advice and will go with the 30-36" long blade. I have some JST Connectors, those will be to change LED. I also have 10 degree lens.

xl97
11-29-2009, 09:01 AM
make sure the wire is VERY thin gauge too..it helps. :)


also why this:

Build Your Own Lux III (White LED)


when you are getting a USB2.5 board?

You dont need the resistor, since the US board will control/regulate for you..

all you'd need is the LED, optics/holder & battery pack..

another tip is, if you ARE having the store/Tim drill & tap holes for you.. send him a polite email asking that all parts be screwed together FIRST.. so that all blade retension holes and covertec holes..etc..etc all line up.. and arent mis-aligned..

without you telling Tim he may not know..or think parts are for different builds..etc..etc.

also. you may want to check out getting a LEE filters swatch book..for colors on your White LED..

more colors than the disks offer.. (in the end)

Rafalema
11-29-2009, 09:06 AM
make sure the wire is VERY thin gauge too..it helps. :)


also why this:

Build Your Own Lux III (White LED)


when you are getting a USB2.5 board?

You dont need the resistor, since the US board will control/regulate for you..

all you'd need is the LED, optics/holder & battery pack..

another tip is, if you ARE having the store/Tim drill & tap holes for you.. send him a polite email asking that all parts be screwed together FIRST.. so that all blade retension holes and covertec holes..etc..etc all line up.. and arent mis-aligned..

without you telling Tim he may not know..or think parts are for different builds..etc..etc.

also. you may want to check out getting a LEE filters swatch book..for colors on your White LED..

more colors than the disks offer.. (in the end)


1.What kinda wire would you suggest?

IDK why the "Build Yourself" kit, but I like it. Propably use those parts for other sabers.

The way I will order the drill & tap holes is with a link to a picture, so he knows they are to the same saber.
This is the pic:
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/3921/showpich.jpg

Im not sure what you mean with alinging? Aren't any kind of screw together parts pretty "random" with the way they aling?

Where to get LEE filters?

xl97
11-29-2009, 09:18 AM
1.) Lee filters.. (google it or search here)

2.) wire: small guage.. 24, 26, even 28 gauge or something.. bends easy..small..

3.) You should still email Tim prior to purchase..

as for alignment.. if he takes one part.. (hilt section lets say).. drills hole for covertec...

then takes bladeholder and drills hole for blade screw..

if you screw those parts together..will the holes line up? will one hole be 3/4 a turn over? who knows.. you need to PLAN AHEAD for this.. (hence the tip to contact Tim)

Rafalema
11-29-2009, 09:22 AM
1.) Lee filters.. (google it or search here)

2.) wire: small guage.. 24, 26, even 28 gauge or something.. bends easy..small..

3.) You should still email Tim prior to purchase..

as for alignment.. if he takes one part.. (hilt section lets say).. drills hole for covertec...

then takes bladeholder and drills hole for blade screw..

if you screw those parts together..will the holes line up? will one hole be 3/4 a turn over? who knows.. you need to PLAN AHEAD for this.. (hence the tip to contact Tim)

Ok I'll ask about that from Tim when he answers my mail. He has not answered, I sent it on friday.

xl97
11-29-2009, 10:36 AM
Yeah..sending before or over the weekends usually has a day wait or so.. (he has a life.. (rumor has it)...and a family as well) ;)

$tarkiller
11-30-2009, 01:36 AM
Yeah..sending before or over the weekends usually has a day wait or so.. (he has a life.. (rumor has it)...and a family as well) ;)

Robots don't need lives.