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View Full Version : And again with the flickering



Vardarac
11-25-2009, 10:32 AM
So having used my simple foam lightsaber successfully in a game of Humans versus Zombies (albeit with much resoldering of the core LED string), I'm hoping to have upgraded it a little by the time next game rolls around. What I'm looking for first before anything else is a way to make the sucker flicker randomly without having to resort to buying a circuit board that does more than what I really need it for; that is, to make the saber flicker like a, well, saber.

I have a bunch of LEDs in parallel drawing 20 mA each and would like to find a way to make them flicker randomly without breaking the bank (or having a weak connection that also breaks). Suggestions?

(If someone could also tell me the cheapest way to add sound to a saber, I would be much obliged. I've heard that gutting cheap toy sabers is usually the way to do it...)

Novastar
11-25-2009, 12:54 PM
A cheap way to implement an ATTEMPT at flicker would be to briefly allow the LEDs to get a "burst" of extra current upon impact.

I've been suggesting an idea like this for "Luxeon style" direct-drive sabers... as a "poor man's clash flash".

You'd need:

* a clash sensor (from TCSS)
* a different string of resistors... and possibly none at all if your battery solution + LEDs was "just right"
* a capacitor might help--especially one that releases its energy somewhat "slowly"

The idea would be--when the saber is in "normal use"--you run the LEDs @ 20mA or 15mA or whatever...

But... when the clash device/circuit is completed--the current skips AROUND the main resistors... and instead... goes through a completely different set of weaker resistors (or none at all, depending) to achieve a brief "over-drive" with the current.

The capacitor might be able to elongate the pulse of current... although it's questionable about whether or not you'll "see" the pulse because it could be so fast. All a question of how bright the normal blade is vs. the "clash on flash" brightness.

Take care not to blow out any LEDs, but... many can handle a brief "burst" of current at 30mA, 40mA, even 50 or 60mA. It depends greatly on your battery solution and quality of the LEDs.

Oh... and...

WEAK SAUCE SOUND: Hasbro.

mihunai
11-25-2009, 02:52 PM
I dont know if this could be used in any way, but there are these little electronics candles that have a little 3V flicker PCB inside...

Perhaps it could be used to control the LED's somehow...

mTm

Rhyen Skytracker
11-25-2009, 02:57 PM
That is a good idea, but I don't know if they can handle the current. Maybe if you could find a relay with a 3 V coil you could use that.

Vardarac
11-25-2009, 02:57 PM
A cheap way to implement an ATTEMPT at flicker would be to briefly allow the LEDs to get a "burst" of extra current upon impact.

I've been suggesting an idea like this for "Luxeon style" direct-drive sabers... as a "poor man's clash flash".

You'd need:

* a clash sensor (from TCSS)
* a different string of resistors... and possibly none at all if your battery solution + LEDs was "just right"
* a capacitor might help--especially one that releases its energy somewhat "slowly"

The idea would be--when the saber is in "normal use"--you run the LEDs @ 20mA or 15mA or whatever...

But... when the clash device/circuit is completed--the current skips AROUND the main resistors... and instead... goes through a completely different set of weaker resistors (or none at all, depending) to achieve a brief "over-drive" with the current.

The capacitor might be able to elongate the pulse of current... although it's questionable about whether or not you'll "see" the pulse because it could be so fast. All a question of how bright the normal blade is vs. the "clash on flash" brightness.

Take care not to blow out any LEDs, but... many can handle a brief "burst" of current at 30mA, 40mA, even 50 or 60mA. It depends greatly on your battery solution and quality of the LEDs.

Oh... and...

WEAK SAUCE SOUND: Hasbro.

Clash flash is definitely nice (and I'll probably be considering adding that, too), though I'm wondering more about the random flicker that sabers have when they're not really doing anything else .-.

Novastar
11-27-2009, 02:32 AM
LOL. So get Crystal Focus. Ultrasound. Corbin's driver. A weak-sauce hasbro.

You want LED driving for cheap? After all the work the sabersmiths out there have done, and what they have to offer? Especially all the FREE advice that is in ABUDANCE here on TCSS and many other places?

Ha. Make it yourself.

mihunai
11-27-2009, 06:47 AM
Maybe if you went for a 4.8V(?) bat. pack, you could wire the candle PCB in series, so the LEDs would get more/less voltage in a flickering pattern...
The LEDs should be individually resistored anyway.
You would have to test this though...

mTm

Vardarac
12-01-2009, 05:12 PM
LOL. So get Crystal Focus. Ultrasound. Corbin's driver. A weak-sauce hasbro.

You want LED driving for cheap? After all the work the sabersmiths out there have done, and what they have to offer? Especially all the FREE advice that is in ABUDANCE here on TCSS and many other places?

Ha. Make it yourself.

Slow down, Tex! I'm just trying to find my options here, not trying to mooch. I'm more than willing to put the money and the effort into putting together something that works (I already did that with the Foam(Fail?)Saber v1.0), but if I can do it for less I will. Just give me a push in the right direction...

PS: I love the idea of CF to death, but if they're not being sold anymore...

Jedi-Loreen
12-01-2009, 05:33 PM
They aren't being sold right now, till the next batch is made. "Anymore" sounds like you think they are discontinued.

Vardarac
12-04-2009, 11:57 AM
They aren't being sold right now, till the next batch is made. "Anymore" sounds like you think they are discontinued.

Oh, I see. I think I read something about the newsletter being discontinued. Any way I could find out when they're being sold again?

Jedi-Loreen
12-04-2009, 12:28 PM
All you can do is watch the forums. Here and FX-Sabers. When Erv is working on another batch and he has an idea of when they might be finished he'll post something. When the release date is announced, you need to be ready to buy, because a batch will be gone in literally minutes.

These boards are hand built by a hobbyist who has a day job. He only does 2, maybe 3 batches a year.