Powder Coating & SPST Latching Guarded switch

[Rafalema]

Hello,


This is my first thread here, and i would be pleased if someone would answer to my questions. So here they come:

:idea: 1: If I for example have 7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole main body and the powder coat (With proper code) in basket, will the body be painted if i order it?

:idea: 2: If I for example have 7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole will the SPST Latching Guarded switch fit on the switch hole?

I am building a LED saber.

Thanks!

[cardcollector]

Hey Hey,

Welcome to the forums! I can see you've done some reading because you seem to know what you're doing.;)

As for the PCing I haven't had any done but I would assume you just add the cost of the fluted section and the cost of the PCing together. and yes, if the PCing isn't anything custom or irregular it will be PC'd. (if you really are in doubt just send tim an e-mail, he is really good at customer service!)

I don't know however about the switch, I would assume so but someone else will have to help.

Got any ideas on your electronics yet???

[Jedi-Loreen]

Regarding your second question, are you worried about the powder coat (which is not paint, but a baked on plastic type of coating), building up in the switch hole and not allowing the switch to fit into it?

[Rafalema]

I believe i will put there "Build Your Own Luxeon III Electronics Kit" which seems good choice for a starter.

And for Loreen, Im not worried about that, the section where the hole for the switch is will not have paint. Only the fluted dealies.

Oh and i forgot to add this to my last post:

How should i attach the activation box to the hilt?

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

You didn't say which box but JB Weld is commonly used for attaching parts and is pretty strong but it is always better to use screws when you can imo.

[Rafalema]

I have box style 2. I was just wondering is it proper lenght so i could do this:
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1656/desing15inch.jpg



Is it proper lenght for that? I live in europe so im not an expert of inches...

[Invisas1979]

Hello,


This is my first thread here, and i would be pleased if someone would answer to my questions. So here they come:

:idea: 1: If I for example have 7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole main body and the powder coat (With proper code) in basket, will the body be painted if i order it?

:idea: 2: If I for example have 7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole will the SPST Latching Guarded switch fit on the switch hole?

I am building a LED saber.

Thanks!

1: You can order the PC and the fluted section will come pc'd. Give Tim an idea of how you want it done.

2: The guarded style hole is specifically for the guarded switch.

Why do you want a activation switch and a box? Yes the length is ok, but be careful if you use screws not to drill into the MHS threads.

I agree with OWK, where possible use screws/nuts/bolts to secure the box.

At 15+inches this very long saber, are you sure you want a saber this long?

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

You could put the box there but if you use screws don't put them on the end near the extension or you will hit the threads...from where the hole shows or backwards toward the flutes would be ok...I suggest drill and tap the box and hilt behind where the hole shows and then use both JB Weld and then one screw which together should be solidly permanent.

[michael0825]

That's a pretty massive saber. Once you start adding chokes and extensions it can get pretty lengthy, especially if you are using a 7" main body. I would consider not using the 7" main body and going with a fluted extension piece. Are you sure you're dead set on a guarded button AND an activation box? Why not combine them into one? Have you considered Box 4 and an AV switch? Tim even has a drilling and mounting option for Box 4 and the switch hole that goes with it. You might be happier with a shorter length, especially since you're not going for sound. Just my 2 pennies. Good luck!

[B5813]

powder coating service currently isn't being done via TCSS

[Rafalema]

Thanks for all answers, really appreciate them.

I know how long saber 15 inch is, but I do not know what to remove.

I want the V-grooved part, and I believe i need choke and blade holder part to hold LED in place?
(Of course I could use some other methods to secure the LED, but I do not believe I have enough skills for that yet.)

I also would like it to have only the activation box, but not sure how should i put there switch under it?

Thanks

[Rhyen Skytracker]

If the saber feels good to you, that is all that matters. I have a couple sabers that are 16" and some 10". It is all about personal preference and design.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I want the V-grooved part, and I believe i need choke and blade holder part to hold LED in place?
(Of course I could use some other methods to secure the LED, but I do not believe I have enough skills for that yet.)

To clarify..

You do not NEED the choke. If you do without one the lip that is normally in the choke for the LED would be in the piece under it. That being said. I have tried to build designs without a choke and i do not like it. I always put on in my build. However, it is not necessary to a build.

[Rafalema]

Ok.

Now my only few questions remain:

I would like to attach the Activation Box Style 2 with some screws. Should I drill them myself or ...?

I also need a hole for the Coverted knob, Should I drill that myself or ..?

Should I order the blade too when I order the parts?

[Shadar Al'Niende]

it all depends on your skill and tools available, there is a drill and tap service in the store which you can have Tim do it for you, also you can do it yourself...

As for the blade, you can order the supplies and put it together yourself, or you can buy one pre-made by tim.

[Rafalema]

Hmm... I have dremel and some skill in drilling... But i think i'll go with the option where Tim makes me the holes. I don't want to ruin those shiny aluminium piece of arts...

[Rafalema]

Tim made me the holes, but how can i attach the box style 2 with screws? It has no holes.
What should i do?

[Darth Securis]

well if you already have it then you can either take it to a machine shop and have them drill and tap the holes or you can go to a hardware store and buy an individual tap and drill bit and do it yourself. You will probably have to buy the handle for the tap separately. i am doing this for a different retention screw on my blade holder.

[Invisas1979]

Thanks for all answers, really appreciate them.

I know how long saber 15 inch is, but I do not know what to remove.

I want the V-grooved part, and I believe i need choke and blade holder part to hold LED in place?
(Of course I could use some other methods to secure the LED, but I do not believe I have enough skills for that yet.)

I also would like it to have only the activation box, but not sure how should i put there switch under it?

Thanks

No, you don't need the choke to hold the led in place, it will sit in the rim of any MHS piece, you will need the blade holder.

Also with a 7in fluted and 5in ribbed you're most like to be holding the main bit of the hilt and not the choke, I'd loose it personally.

Try and find someone to drill and tap the holes for you where possible as it can be tricky, you don't want to drill a hole and then tap it badly, you'll only have to drill more holes if you do that.

[Rafalema]

I do not believe that I need to tap the hole that will be drilled to the box. It doesn't matter, only if the hole in the main body is tapped that will be enough.

Thanks for the information that the heatsink fits on any MHS rings. I will PROPABLY leave the choke away, but I will order it, and test which one looks better.

Just waiting few last mails from tim about the size of the holes that he drilled me to the main body to secure the box.

[Darth Vane]

Thanks for all answers, really appreciate them.

I know how long saber 15 inch is, but I do not know what to remove.

I want the V-grooved part, and I believe i need choke and blade holder part to hold LED in place?
(Of course I could use some other methods to secure the LED, but I do not believe I have enough skills for that yet.)

I also would like it to have only the activation box, but not sure how should i put there switch under it?

Thanks
What you could do is instead of the 7" inch fluted section mabey go for the 5" or 6" fluted section. You would have to pay a little extra to get a switch hole in it, but it would help make your hilt shorter. Personaly i would go with the 6" seeing that you want a activation box.