Final Parts Check?

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Hey guys.!

after designing, and re-designing, and re-designing, and...well you get the point ;) I am planning on ordering this coming Friday and have that feeling that I HAVE to be missing something... I am sure you all know the feeling.

The Goal is to have a Green Lux V driven by a US 2.5, wired with a recharge port, Illuminated Green AV Momentary switch, reverse sound and a crystal in the pommel. (I think that is the high points) This will be a show piece, thus no covertec pieces or D-Ring.

Ok, ok... enough of that, I know some of this is not in stock currently but....on with the parts...


BH 17
Custom Choke 3
7" Fluted DF Extension (drilled for recharge port, AV, and button head screw)
Pommel 6
MPS Insert 1

1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
8-32 x 13/32 Black Thumb Screw
8-32 x 1/2" black button head screw
Acrylic Crystals
Bezel for illuminated switches
3/32" Allen wrench

2AA Battery holder
TrustFire Protected 18650 Li-Ion's (2-pack)
2.1mm Power Jack
Power jack kill plug
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger
2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger

Ultrasound 2.5
Premium Speaker

4 Wire Quick Connector (x2)
26 Guage Wire Black (2ft)
26 Guage Wire Red (2ft)
1/8" Heatshrink Tubing
LED "Corbin style" Show blade

16mm Green Illuminated AV Momentary
Luxeon V (Green)
10 deg Lens
Lens Holder
5mm Green Accent LED's (x3)

Like I said, i have this nagging feeling that I am missing something. As stated earlier, I am sure you have all gone through that, so a good once over would be much appreciated :D Here is a peek at the general concept:

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x116/TaiDashan/TCSS%20Renders/Lamnia-Verus.png

[Kant Lavar]

Maybe I'm just going blind, but I don't see a C-clip for the pommel insert, nor a speaker mount, nor the mount for the switch so it'll fit in the hilt. You also might want to consider picking up some extra wire, just in case. (That's just my two cents, there.)

One other thing, and I'm pretty sure I know what the answer will be, but are you really planning on using the 18650 batteries, or are you getting the 14500s from the store? Because if you're really going for 18650s, then I'd wonder about you being able to fit them in the hilt, as you can't fit two of them side-by-side in an MHS saber, nor will they fit in the AA holder.

Also, and surprisingly, that partictular powdercoating option for your main hilt isn't one that Tim offers. I must admit I'm a bit surprised, as I would imagine it would be a simple matter of milling the grooves after the powdercoating was done, but maybe it's not as simple as I imagine. He might be able to do it, though - you'd have to email him to get a definite yes or no on that.

Other than that, I don't see any major issues. 'Course, I've never done any of these newfangled things like "crystal pommels" or "reverse sound" so take that for what it's worth.

[Jedi-Loreen]

He does have the bezel for illuminated switches on his list, but you're right about him not having the other two. But maybe he's not planning on using them.

So, I guess that makes you only partially blind. ;)


:p

[Shadar Al'Niende]

So, I guess that makes you only partially blind. ;)

Haha...

Actually I use adhesive to secure the inserts in the pommel since I will never be removing them, I will have a custom speaker mount so no worries there and i have ordered 4 feet of extra wire, 2 ft black, 2ft red. Do you think i need more?

On a side note I did not know the 18650's were that large. I was planning on using them due to the high mAh rating (2500 mAh) since i will most likely be running this at 1A. Since it is rechargeable it is not that big of a deal so I do not mind altering that bit. 14500's it is! :D


surprisingly, that partictular powdercoating option for your main hilt isn't one that Tim offers. I must admit I'm a bit surprised, as I would imagine it would be a simple matter of milling the grooves after the powdercoating was done, but maybe it's not as simple as I imagine.

I mentioned this to Tim who said it would possibly be available really soon. As for now I am planning on just getting PC'ing code SF71 in black and then SF72 in Chrome...its an expensive option and the colors may not look that great since I am not planning on PC'ing the pommel or choke, *shrug* but it gets me what I want....

Thanks for glancing over everything guys, feel free to point anything else out you think is worth it...the intel on the batteries was great! ;)

[Kant Lavar]

Wire is cheap. I always overestimate how much I'll need, just in case I screw something up and need to start from scratch, or something gets broken, etc.

14500s are more than capable of putting out 1A - I use those in my two UltraSound-driven sabers, and I've never had a problem. Now, if you're really concerned about run time, I do have another idea, but it'd require soldering batteries into a pack yourself. Contact me via PM for more info if you're interested.

[DJMoonbass]

i am thinking shadar you might wanna add a thermal pad to that list... it says its suppost to be better than ThermalC.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

i am thinking shadar you might wanna add a thermal pad to that list...

Would i really need that for a lux V?

[FenderBender]

Really, the thermal pad is only needed for isolation, which has known to occasionally be a problem with LUX Reds, or just reds in general. Ive personally never had this problem, and thermal paste works just fine.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Do i even need the paste? that is for aiding in heat transfer if i understand correctly and the lux V is fine with the heatsink right?

[FenderBender]

I look at it like a condom,Id rather have it and not need it etc....

Plus, it keeps the thing from sliding around on the heatsink while I solder it, then put the screws in.

[DJMoonbass]

:shock::p nice analogy Fender. lol. that sounded just.... just wrong.

[Kant Lavar]

I use thermal paste just out of habit. Personally, though, I prefer the thermal tape Tim started using, mostly because it's cleaner. You might not need it, but it's one less variable to consider in case something starts shorting out on your LED.