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View Full Version : Ultrasound 2.5 mount inside hilt



grommit
11-05-2009, 02:13 PM
I was trying to come up with a mount scheme for the Ultrasound 2.5 board inside a 1.5" sink tube. How about this design in ABS plastic? The US25 would slide down the tracks and I could put just a spot of hot glue on one corner to hold it. Wires could be run through the space above or below and air can flow around it...

Grommit

http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/US25-Mount-v3-view1.jpg
http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/US25-Mount-v3-view2.jpg

Sairon
11-06-2009, 03:58 PM
That looks like a great idea, although it takes up room, you wouldn't have to worry about the board getting beat up.

Rhyen Skytracker
11-06-2009, 04:03 PM
Looks like a good idea. You can also turn it down to fit inside a MHS part too.

grommit
11-06-2009, 08:34 PM
Thanks. It would take room but, I suspect, there wouldn't typically be much other then wires in the area where the board is anyway. Switches and charge ports, etc. are usually above/below where the board sits aren't they? This still allows wires through.

It could be made to any diameter or sanded down as needed.

I could likely make it have a larger inner diameter, at least on the sides where the board doesn't slide in (making it sort of oval shaped on the ID). I just did the simplest thing in Sketchup which was concentric circles of the needed diameter. Doing this would make for more room above and below for wiring.

Grommit

Rhyen Skytracker
11-07-2009, 12:03 AM
I like it.

Invisas1979
11-07-2009, 02:33 AM
I would love to see it this could be done in Alumi by Tim, it would allow for a really secure mount.

Though there may be connection/shorting issues from the board touching metal.

How easy would this be to make? If it was east and Tim could stock it, it would be a master stroke.

grommit
11-07-2009, 07:17 AM
Aluminum would definitely cause shorting. Unless you had aluminum with nylon inserts on the rails, but IMO that is very much overkill. Plastic inside the hilt would be more than strong enough.

Below is an attempt lighten it a bit and open it up to take less room. The two pieces could be joined across the middle just above and below the PCB with a couple of nylon PCB standoffs or double-ended screws...

Plus, it looks kind of like a TIE Fighter ;)
Grommit

http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/US25-Mount-v4.jpg

grommit
11-07-2009, 07:26 AM
PS: TCSS is welcome to take this and run with it. I have no intention of patenting it :D I may have a friend print one for me on a 3DP or figure out another way to make one locally.

If TCSS adds it to the store, I think they should call it the Ultrasound Grommet :rolleyes:

Grommit

Shadar Al'Niende
11-07-2009, 09:24 AM
If TCSS adds it to the store, I think they should call it the Ultrasound Grommet :rolleyes:

haha spectacular!

email tim an example of your idea if you would like him to consider it: sales@thecustomsabershop.com

Rhyen Skytracker
11-07-2009, 12:20 PM
I think making it out of delrin would be the best material to make it out of.

Kal El Rah
11-07-2009, 03:11 PM
looks great and a welcomed addition in the shop for sure.

grommit
11-17-2009, 02:34 PM
I was at the hardware store today to pick up some screws and saw these plumbing pipe holders. They are made to be screwed to the rafters and the pipe pushed into them. About 5 minutes (probably less) with the Dremel tool and I have the perfect Ultrasound 2.5 board holder!

All I had to do was round off the base until it fit into my pipe. I am using sink tube but they could be further reduced for TCSS hilts. Then I used a Dremel cutting tip to cut the channel into each side. They are pretty stiff plastic and the board fits in perfectly. You can see the rounded base and the channels I cut in the first two pictures.

You could use just one in the center of the US25 board and it would work fine. I am going to use one on each end in order that the US25 doesn't bump anything forward or aft. I will put a spot of hot glue at the ends, though it may not be needed once everything is packed in.

BTW, they were $0.19 ea.

Grommit

http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/IMG_2169.jpg

http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/IMG_2173.jpg

http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/IMG_2175.jpg

http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/IMG_2177.jpg

http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/IMG_2187.jpg

http://bgp.nu/~tom/pub/IMG_2188.jpg

Kant Lavar
11-17-2009, 03:43 PM
Not a bad find. Personally, I just use double-sided mounting tape on mine, and stick them on the battery pack. Haven't had a problem yet... but maybe that's just me.

grommit
11-17-2009, 04:24 PM
Not a bad find. Personally, I just use double-sided mounting tape on mine, and stick them on the battery pack. Haven't had a problem yet... but maybe that's just me.

I thought about that but I want everything to fit in there with no movement as my 8 year old will be throwing it around. The 4-AA flat battery holder that TCSS sent, with the board on it has too much play in it and I would have to stuff some foam around it or something to keep it from moving around. I got a 4-AA pack from Radio Shack that has the batteries side-by-side in a bundle and it fits in the sink tube snuggly.

I suppose if I was using TCSS hilts the flat holder might fit better as there is less ID on those compared to the sink tube.

Grommit

Jedi-Loreen
11-17-2009, 07:35 PM
I think it's a nice find. :)

DJMoonbass
11-17-2009, 08:10 PM
no grommit this is a very nice idea. however there are some small problems with your design.

your first picture is one whole mount. with 2 square-like extruded cuts (the rivets to hold the soundboard) going down on the inside. will you wount be able to get the square part of it. the only way to get that is either plung milling wich will give you a half circle slot, or by casting this in a mold. that would get the scuare slots.

now i look at your second design. this would work way better. you could take those two halfs and then also have small plastic rods that will fit in those holes i see and then glue the chassis mount together around the soundcard. the only problem with this however is making sure you retain the 1.25" circular profile. this would be the hardest part.

but good luck man. hey did you make this with solidwork or 3DS max? the graphics look very familiar.;)

btw those last picture i kinda monster big. you might wanna resize the, ;)

annon
11-17-2009, 08:20 PM
That's a good find Grommit.
And economic too, can't beat that. :mrgreen:

cardcollector
11-17-2009, 08:24 PM
I am so going to get some of these!

Great find!

Lord Maul
11-17-2009, 08:49 PM
Grommit, very cool idea! I think it has a lot of potential.

Resize your pics please...max limit for the forums is 800x600 pixels

grommit
11-17-2009, 09:44 PM
Grommit, very cool idea! I think it has a lot of potential.

Resize your pics please...max limit for the forums is 800x600 pixels

Sorry, resized.

grommit
11-17-2009, 09:50 PM
no grommit this is a very nice idea. however there are some small problems with your design.

your first picture is one whole mount. with 2 square-like extruded cuts (the rivets to hold the soundboard) going down on the inside. will you wount be able to get the square part of it. the only way to get that is either plung milling wich will give you a half circle slot, or by casting this in a mold. that would get the scuare slots.

now i look at your second design. this would work way better. you could take those two halfs and then also have small plastic rods that will fit in those holes i see and then glue the chassis mount together around the soundcard. the only problem with this however is making sure you retain the 1.25" circular profile. this would be the hardest part.

but good luck man. hey did you make this with solidwork or 3DS max? the graphics look very familiar.;)

btw those last picture i kinda monster big. you might wanna resize the, ;)

That first design I was going to have 3D printed. I will still probably do that to try it in a future saber. It could also be injection molded. I drew those with Google Sketchup.

Sorry on the monster images, thought I fixed that earlier...

Grommit

Rhyen Skytracker
11-18-2009, 08:04 AM
Excellant find and very economical. I will be making a trip to the hardware store to day to look for them. What size pipe are those hangers for? I want to make sure I get the right size.

grommit
11-18-2009, 11:13 AM
Excellant find and very economical. I will be making a trip to the hardware store to day to look for them. What size pipe are those hangers for? I want to make sure I get the right size.

I knew someone was going to ask me that... To be honest I am not sure. I think they were for 1" pipe but it may have been for 3/4...I had a 1.5" sink tube in my hands when I found them. It would not quite fit insde but I knew a few passes of the dremel would do it.

Grommit

xl97
11-18-2009, 02:55 PM
as sated...nice idea (and also takes up valuable room).. you need to hike that board UP toward the top of the 'hilt'..and work in some batteries.. a nice card/battery back version.

Rhyen Skytracker
11-18-2009, 03:19 PM
I agree, need to incorporate the batteries in there somewhere. You may be able to get a 2 x 2 long ways NiMH pack to possibly fit.

xl97
11-18-2009, 03:27 PM
I would go for 2 Li 14650's or 18650..or something.. 2 x 3.7 cells possibly?

Rhyen Skytracker
11-18-2009, 03:33 PM
If you used 2 or 3 Li-Ion batteries you would have to make room for the protection pcb too if you want in-hilt charging system.

xl97
11-18-2009, 03:39 PM
you could buy your own protected cells and make a pack..no?

I dont think the PCB's take up that much room do they? ;)

Rhyen Skytracker
11-18-2009, 03:48 PM
I am sure something could be made for all of it to fit in a hilt. I need to get one of the pcbs to see how big they are.

grommit
11-18-2009, 08:27 PM
Well, in the 12" sink tube there is loads of room. I could put 8-AA batteries in two 4packs parallel together if I want. I have things arranged like this:

----4-AA---- --CP-- -------US25 ------ ----ILL SW---- -------LED+Holder--------

And I have room to do this:

----4-AA---- --CP-- -----4-AA---- ------US25------- ----ILL SW ----- --------LED+Holder-------


CP = Charge Port
US25 = Ultrasound 2.5 bd in holder
ILL SW = Illuminated switch

Grommit

Novastar
11-19-2009, 01:19 PM
Rhyen--PCBs are pretty smallform... whether for 3.6v or 7.2v.

Grommit--nice find! It should work for certain applications, that is for sure. Granted, I *WISH* I had that much "room in there", heheh

Double-sided sticky tape is indeed an option when space is limited... and you could also use velcro strips--those can be very effective!

grommit
11-19-2009, 01:42 PM
Rhyen--PCBs are pretty smallform... whether for 3.6v or 7.2v.

Grommit--nice find! It should work for certain applications, that is for sure. Granted, I *WISH* I had that much "room in there", heheh

Double-sided sticky tape is indeed an option when space is limited... and you could also use velcro strips--those can be very effective!

So how does one use these? If you sticky-tape or velcro the US25 to a flat battery pack, don't you run the risk of it banging against the side on it's other face?

Grommit

Kant Lavar
11-19-2009, 04:48 PM
Granted, I've not done a sinktube saber (my Dremel-fu is nonexistent!), but in MHS hilts, the double AA pack fits in tightly enough that the pack - and therefore the UltraSounds in both sabers that I'm running at the moment - are stationary. I have to be a bit careful putting them in and taking them out, for example when replacing batteries, but so far I've not had an issue.

astromech_kuhns
11-21-2009, 08:24 PM
something along these lines, you could get PVC and do whatever needed to make it fit inside the hilt and the board to fit in it, and then you could just use a jig saw and cut those square indents into it. or some other thin type of tubing. even maybe some of those PVC connectors.

but nice so far!