Jedi masters, help an apprentice, please, hmm?

[grommit]

I want to build a LS for my 8yr old for xmas. After doing a bit of reading of the tutorials and various forums here are the things I have decided on and questions I have.

Plan to build one with:
- Luxeon 5W Green
- (probably) UltraSound board (US25) - definitely want sounds
- rechargeable batteries
- want to have charging port on exterior
- perhaps a lighted switch


Questions:
Deciding between 1.25" and 1.5" sink tubes...What is the ID on each of these?

I see that heat sinks come with the blade holders, if I am going with a Luxeon V, are the ones provided adequate? Reason I ask is that I see the Heatsink2 seems beefier, which is needed?

I also see that Heatsink2 comes with the 1.25" sink tube blade holder. Why is that?

I was thinking about using rechargeable 18650 2600mAh batteries. Will these fit side-by-side (36mm) in a 1.5" tube or is there not enough room?

With the US25 board will two 18650s power the board, and a Luxeon V, and perhaps a lighted switch for a reasonable amount of time?

If I order a lighted switch with the US25 I need a momentary switch, is that correct?

I would also need a Activation box style 4 and a 270ohm 1/4 watt resistor for the lighted switch, yes?

I assume the 3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger will work with 18650 batteries fine?

If I have to stack two 18650s that would be about 5.25". The US25 is 2" long unless I can mount is above (or below, depending on your perspective) the 18650. Is there room in a 1.25" or 1.5" for the US25 and a 18650 below it? I see that your AA mounter has room, but not sure about the 18mm dia 18650s.

Ok, I think that it is for now.
TIA!
Grommit

[pipster79]

if you want to go with those batteries i would suggest that u get a pack already made of them. li-ions you have to be careful soldering too, they can easily get plated if they get too much heat, wich sometimes happens even before the solder will stick to them(had it happen on a few 14400's) also far as i know there are no actual battery holders made for these batteries yet.
and they will power a lux 5 nicely btw

[$tarkiller]

well, your seems to be well thought out... And In answer to your questions about the heatsink, yes, the original heatsink will be enough for the Lux V. But my question to you is where is Wallace? :mrgreen:

[Lan-Ja Hamil]

But my question to you is where is Wallace? :mrgreen:

Very nice indeed. :lol:

[Raith]

looks to me like your plans are solid...

but, Grommit, have you seen my cheese?

[DJMoonbass]

wow lots of words there. the 18650s will fit in the smart charger. the 1.25" and 1.5" sinktubes have the same diamter wall. so the 1.25" would have an ID of about... hmm i would say 1.23" and the 1.5" would be around 1.47". thats just how i machine my parts to fit snuggly inside. and believe me. it can get really snug.

i would deffinatly go with the 1.5" because the adapter for MHS works perfectly for it. plus you have WAY more room to work with. typical MHS parts have an ID of 1.25".

the copper heatsinks are desgned to go with MHS parts. the LED, optics and heatsink are all sandwhiched down by the blade holder.

the other bigger heatsink you see is a different design and used differently. for exaample just a simple siniktube saber. thats why it comes with the 1.25" sinktube blade holder.


as for your switch. you seem to have the correct resistor. and yes you need momentary. and also no you dont need the activation box style 4. you can still use it if you like the way it looks. TCSS now has a new bezel for the illuminated switches. its more low profile, and not as expensive.

let me know if this answers your questions. ;) i love helping newbs

[grommit]

Hey, thanks everyone for your quick responses!!

So here goes...

RE: 18650's and soldering -
I was planning to buy the type that come with tabs attached so it would be less likely I would burn them. Like these: http://www.onlybatteries.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=14571.11&cat1=27&uid=1107

RE: Where is Wallace? -
I don't know, but I moved his cheese. And, I'm not telling where. I am going out in my techno-trousers now.

RE: ID of 1.47" on the 1.5" sink tube -
Good, then two side-by-side 18650s should fit. I will wonder about side-by-side with a Ultrasound beside them though...?

RE: no you dont need the activation box style 4 -
Really? I thought the instructions said that the lighted switches are too long to fit into the tube?

RE: TCSS now has a new bezel for the illuminated switches. -
Do you have a link for that?

One question that sort of got answered (but not quite):
With the US25 board will two 18650s power the board, and a Luxeon V, and perhaps a lighted switch for a reasonable amount of time? What are the power specs on the sound board, or alternatively can someone give me a rough estimate on run time for 2600mAh with the above accoutrements?

Thanks for the recommendation on 1.5" tube, I think I will go that route.

Thanks again for your help.
Grommit

[cannibal869]

As others have said, it looks good so far.

The only question I have is - if this is for your 8 year old, how much abuse do you foresee happening to this saber? What I mean is this - A Lux V is a great LED, don't get me wrong - it's super bright - potentially bright enough to blind if stared at too long...

The other thing is that an US 2.5 for an adult saber is one thing, but for a kid? Hopefully, if the saber is well built and duel worthy, little will happen to the board, but it *is* an expensive board.

Personally, I think I would have built a saber using a P4 LED and an MR board for an 8 year old, but that's just me... oh wait - I did build one of those for a 9 year old recently :rolleyes:

;) -C

edit: that said, if you do go the LuxV and US route, your kid is one really really lucky kid (and you're a kick-@$$ dad!)

[grommit]

As others have said, it looks good so far.

The only question I have is - if this is for your 8 year old, how much abuse do you foresee happening to this saber? What I mean is this - A Lux V is a great LED, don't get me wrong - it's super bright - potentially bright enough to blind if stared at too long...

The other thing is that an US 2.5 for an adult saber is one thing, but for a kid? Hopefully, if the saber is well built and duel worthy, little will happen to the board, but it *is* an expensive board.

Personally, I think I would have built a saber using a P4 LED and an MR board for an 8 year old, but that's just me... oh wait - I did build one of those for a 9 year old recently :rolleyes:

;) -C

edit: that said, if you do go the LuxV and US route, your kid is one really really lucky kid (and you're a kick-@$$ dad!)

You raise a good and valid point. I assure you it will take all the abuse an 8 year old can dish out.

I was planning to well cover things with plenty of shrink tubing and foam where necessary. I thought the polycarbonate and metal would be quite durable and if the electronics was well built and packed could take the abuse. Am I wrong?

I fully admit this is a spur of the moment decision and not completely thought out :shock:

I also freely admit that while it will be my son's, I might be doing it for myself as well. There I said it. I feel so much better. :oops:

Grommit

[DJMoonbass]

heres the link to the bezel:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bezel-for-illuminated-switches-P448.aspx

as you can see thats in a 1.25" main hilt body. so you will have plenty of room in a 1.5" sinktube.

yeah dude i would seriously go with a P4 green LED. there hella bright. also if you go that route. you could go to radio shack and get one of those 4 AA battery packs with the 9 volts connector thing on it. they fit PERFECTLY inside the sinktube. i just used one and it slides right in like they were meant for each other. eliminates battery pack wobble. then you could put your ultrasound in a film canister or something.

[Luke-SkyMarcher]

18650's work very well. I don't know about an ultrasound, but they power a K2 or a Lux V for a pretty good amount of time on a CF. ;)(I haven't had the chance to time it yet) The Li-ion charger Tim sells works fine for these.
As to acquiring them... personally I prefer Battery Junction, since they sell basically the same thing for half the price of the site you mentioned.


Luke

[grommit]

heres the link to the bezel:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bezel-for-illuminated-switches-P448.aspx

as you can see thats in a 1.25" main hilt body. so you will have plenty of room in a 1.5" sinktube.

yeah dude i would seriously go with a P4 green LED. there hella bright. also if you go that route. you could go to radio shack and get one of those 4 AA battery packs with the 9 volts connector thing on it. they fit PERFECTLY inside the sinktube. i just used one and it slides right in like they were meant for each other. eliminates battery pack wobble. then you could put your ultrasound in a film canister or something.

Thanks for the link.

Ok, so you think I should go P4 just in case my kid pokes his finger into it or pees on it or something, mainly due to the cost right? Also, if I go with P4 and 4AA pack can I leave everything else as is (UltraSound, lighted switch, external charge port) or should I use a different sound/driver board?

Is the green P4 using filters and will that dim it much? Will the P4 work well with this blade: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com:80/LED-Corbin-style-Show-blade-1-OD--P227.aspx
?

Grommit

[grommit]

18650's work very well. I don't know about an ultrasound, but they power a K2 or a Lux V for a pretty good amount of time on a CF. ;)(I haven't had the chance to time it yet) The Li-ion charger Tim sells works fine for these.
As to acquiring them... personally I prefer Battery Junction, since they sell basically the same thing for half the price of the site you mentioned.


Luke

Wow, yes they do and with leads attached even. Thanks.
Grommit