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Ovlos
10-22-2009, 10:16 PM
Fairly new here, been reading quite a bit. I just put together my wishlist, if I missed some key component please let me know. I'm aiming to have a red blade, and the best option that I could see was the White Seoul P4 with a lens, but if there's a better option out there I didn't see it. Then again these forums are big. *Shrug* Sound isn't a priority at the moment.

Electronics:
Optics:
Seoul P4 LED (White)
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
12 Colored Discs

Power:
BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
4AAA battery holder
SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button (Standard On/Off)
DPDT Latching red illuminated switch (Master Kill to be mounted in pommel, knowing me I'll leave it on at some point lol)
220ohm 1/4w resistor (for the kill switch)


Hilt / Blade:
Screw on LED blade holder style 8
MHS choke style 1
Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole
MPS Pommel style 7
MPS Insert style 2 (with Clip)
LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)

8-32 x 13/32" Black Thumb Screw (Quantity 3, Blade screws)
6-32 socket Head Cap Screw (Quantity 12, I'm planning on adding an over piece using sink pipe...maybe)
Covertec Clip


Oh...the kill switch is going to be wired in series with the main On/Off switch, does anyone know if the resistor will cause issues for the Buckpack? Thanks for taking the time to look over a nubbin's wee little plan :)

Jedi-Loreen
10-23-2009, 09:45 AM
I'm not sure why you are worried that the switch resistor will cause an issue with the buck puck, the power for it is a separate circuit that's on the input side of the puck.

You're going to need to enlarge the hole in that pommel insert to accomodate that switch, which is 16mm in diameter.

I don't know why new people always seem to want to use the 5 degree lens, then complain that it won't fit in the lens holder. The Store sells the lens holder for the 10 degree lens, because the one made for the 5 degree won't work with the MHS system.

You might want to read up on the modifying of the lens and/or holder you need to do to get the 5 degree lens to fit. The 10 degree lens snaps right into the holder.

Oh, and do you plan to use the plastic Covertec button that comes with the clip? Because I don't see one of the machined buttons on your parts list. They are much nicer than the flat plastic one.

Ovlos
10-23-2009, 03:01 PM
Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure about the Covertec button, as it looked as if the part I had listed had a button included already. If it's plastic however, I'll be adding a machined button to my wish list.

Going off what I read, the 5 degree lens gives much better illumination that the 10 degree for the blade I'm going to be using. If the lens doesn't fit the holder, I'll modify one or the other to get it to fit together properly. I was also planning on having to modify the pommel insert to make the button fit.

As to the resistor and buckpack...I was a bit tired when I posted last night. After a little more research the schematic will look a bit like this:

http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp197/silvion23/SABERSCHEMATIC.jpg

The LED switch has a separate positive/negative terminal just for the LED itself and terminals for the switch mechanism itself...stupid me lol, I thought that the LED and the switch itself were running off one set of terminals. Oh well...sleep makes everything better. Other than that I'm planning on building a sled to hold the main guts of my saber so when I upgrade it won't be such a pain. Shouldn't be too hard, I build stuff like that for IR light testers and some other things for work.

Jedi-Loreen
10-23-2009, 07:36 PM
I still don't see the power for the switch LED in your schematic.

Ovlos
10-24-2009, 08:46 AM
The power for the switch LED runs in parallel with the power for the buckpack, going through the resistor first as per the schematic

Jedi-Loreen
10-24-2009, 08:51 AM
Oh, duh. :oops:


It helps if I'm paying attention. :rolleyes: