Sink-Tub/Pop-up Assembly saber

[Rookie162]

Alrighty, so I'm a poor teenager and made this kitchen sink saber hilt:

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs201.snc1/6831_1282101251965_1213100013_1934106_1416567_n.jp g

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs221.snc1/6831_1282101331967_1213100013_1934108_3155626_n.jp g

This is a 1 1/2" sink tube with a 1 1/4" plastic (chrome finish) pop-up drain. Grip is kinda crudily put together with old wiper blades and electrical tape, but eh I'm satisfied. It's about 25 cm, or 10", long. The 'button' hole is a 1/2" diameter (I think) with a 1/4" gap in the base-plate at the bottom

My question to you all is whether or not this setup will work with a
Lux III LED electronics kit (4AAA batt. pack),
a 1 1/4" sink tube blade holder
and a 1" OD Corbin style battle blade, double wrap. (36" long)

I've look through a LOT of the build/tutorial threads here, and I still don't feel confident enough to buy those three things. I'm worried mainly about getting the battery pack and the blade to fit, but I might as well clear up the overall question first. I'm also a little worried about being able to properly machine/solder all the appropriate pieces. For instance, instead of soldering the wires together could I use wire connectors (the little plastic caps that have threading on the inside).

If there's anything wrong with buying those parts for this, maybe I need a different or new piece, or I've got it all wrong and I'm way in over my head, please please please let me know.

P.S. I don't mind if you give me advice without pictures, but please don't get technical with a hole bunch of electrical lingo... links to what I need are always nice.

P.P.S. I also realize I posted this in the wrong thread... although I am asking if these parts are right.... Anyway, if a mod/admin sees it fit and is gentle I would appreciate if this was moved to a thread more suiting.

[Crystal Chambers]

I'm new to this but from the reading I've done...and I recommend to do lots, this will work fine. You can always upgrade your hilt later.

You will need to do or have some soldering done. It's not really that hard and you can find tutorial on youtube.

You need to add a blade retention screw to your list, maybe a thumb screw will do. If you can't drill and tap the hole for this screw there is a service available here at the store to have it done. You'll find that in the same menu as the parts under services.

There are measurements of almost every part on their pages, either in the part description or tab labeled dimensions, just scroll down.

I'm a little unfamiliar with this type of sink tube and see that you have two measurements there.I'm guessing the top that appears to be where you want your blade holder and the majority of the tube is 1.25" and the wider bottom is the 1.5. I would of thought this was a 1.25 sink tube but regardless it appears that you have the right blade holder and battery size.

[Rookie162]

I may not have been clear enough, but this is a 1.25" drain in a 1.5" sink tube, snug in place with electrical tape at two points (lower and higher)

[Jedi-Loreen]

Where would you put your switch?

[Rookie162]

I'm thinking in the side hole ( below the top threading, best seen in the bottom picture). It goes all the way through, since there's a 1/4" gap in the bottom. It's just plastic, so reshaping/sizing it won't be much of a problem.

And the retention screw can easily go in a spot in the top threading; there's already a flat surface to drill through.

question about the drilling though... is threading necessary? Or do I just take an appropriately sized drill and make a hole?

[Jedi-Loreen]

You can't put a switch up that high, the blade holder goes there, if you're talking about those rectangular cut outs. I'm not even sure how well that's going to work in plastic, since you have to screw the blade holder into the plastic pipe to hold it in place. You'll have to figure out another place for the switch lower down.

I thought you might say you'd put it in that little side nipple thing, but I don't know if you could get that to work, either.

You need to tap the blade retention screw hole because you use a screw with finer machine threads, not self-taping type threads. You can't use a screw to put threads into the aluminum blade holder.

I don't even see a blade retention screw on your list, but you'll need one to hold the blade in.

[Rookie162]

You can't put a switch up that high, the blade holder goes there, if you're talking about those rectangular cut outs. I'm not even sure how well that's going to work in plastic, since you have to screw the blade holder into the plastic pipe to hold it in place. You'll have to figure out another place for the switch lower down.

I thought you might say you'd put it in that little side nipple thing, but I don't know if you could get that to work, either.

You need to tap the blade retention screw hole because you use a screw with finer machine threads, not self-taping type threads. You can't use a screw to put threads into the aluminum blade holder.

I don't even see a blade retention screw on your list, but you'll need one to hold the blade in.

The retention screw will be added, I just haven't added that yet. The place where i'm thinking it'll have to go is about 1/8" thick, so I wanna know if it'll have to be threaded for the screw to go in, or if I should get those furniture screws that the retention screw can go in, as done in the PVC tutorial (?). (I've looked through so many tutorials, I can't remember which one those were used in.)

Really, when it comes down to the retention screw part and how the blade holder goes in, I'm a little lost. The only sink tube tutorial that I found involves cutting the retention screw, and doesn't show how the blade holder goes together much less how it goes inside the tube.

And I am talking about the side nipple thing, not the square cutouts. If it is too tall for the button, or to narrow at the button, I can cut it off and re-size if needed.

Here's where the button goes. You can sorta see the base-plate that I'm talking about, though it is a fuzzy picture. The point is, there's a rectangular gap at the bottom of the hole, and that gap is 1/4" X 1/2".

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs258.snc1/10521_1282914912306_1213100013_1937054_3187080_n.j pg

and here's a shot of the general area. The flat surface in the threaded area is where I'm thinkin the ret. screw will go.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs278.snc1/10521_1282914872305_1213100013_1937053_472147_n.jp g

[Jedi-Loreen]

Ok, I see what you're saying.

You don't really want to use those threaded inserts for your blade retention screw.

Check out some of Jay-gon's posts. He takes lots of in-build photos and you should be able to find some where he used 1 1/4" blade holders, and other adapters, so you can see how they get attached.

[Rookie162]

will this screw work?: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-1332-Thumb-Screw-P109.aspx

or do I also need this?:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-18-Set-screw-P108.aspx

and if someone could check the dimensions for the screw, set screw, and and drill/thread tap that I need to use please? I know there's a great threading tutorial, with a nice chart at the bottom, but I'm not sure what dimensions match up with what.

[Jedi-Loreen]

You need a thumb screw or a set screw, not both. Have you been reading posts by Crystal Chambers? :rolleyes:

A thumb screw can be a little ugly on some sabers, but you don't need a tool for it when you want to loosen it to remove your blade.

A set screw is more unobtrusive, but you will need a hex key/allen wrench for it.

I'm not sure what you don't understand about what drill and tap set you need for those screws. They are both 8/32, so you need the 8/32 drill and tap set. Make sense?

On the Store page, it also tells you that you need a 5/64 allen wrench for the set screw.

The other dimension listed with screws is the length.

In case you're wondering, the 8 has to do with the diameter of the screw, and the 32 is how many threads it has per inch.

[DragonStar]

In my opinion the thicker parts of your saber ruin the lines. Those are the large nut on the threaded section, the grip, and the pommel. If I were you I'd unscrew the emitter "sink drain" and then unthread the large nut. I'd use something else for the grip. Do-Clo posted a nice O-ring/heatshrink combo that would look good with this saber. I'd also find something else for the pommel that is slimmer.

To show you what I mean I have mocked up a similar saber in the spirit of yours. It's the same kind of sink tube with a simple beveled emitter and some random car part I found in the parking lot of a local taqueria as the pommel. I shoved the polycarbonate dome of an LED air valve cover in the hole. This isn'a working saber, just put it together here after reading your post.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_hkMwWY8mX2A/St5tNL8gvJI/AAAAAAAABFk/LUR_u7xaCF8/s1024/img_2149.jpg

Link to full gallery (http://picasaweb.google.com/robsspamtrapper/SinktubeSaber)

[Rookie162]

You need a thumb screw or a set screw, not both. Have you been reading posts by Crystal Chambers? :rolleyes:

A thumb screw can be a little ugly on some sabers, but you don't need a tool for it when you want to loosen it to remove your blade.

A set screw is more unobtrusive, but you will need a hex key/allen wrench for it.

I'm not sure what you don't understand about what drill and tap set you need for those screws. They are both 8/32, so you need the 8/32 drill and tap set. Make sense?

On the Store page, it also tells you that you need a 5/64 allen wrench for the set screw.

The other dimension listed with screws is the length.

In case you're wondering, the 8 has to do with the diameter of the screw, and the 32 is how many threads it has per inch.

Oh I figured it all out, and bought it. I took another look at Jay-Gon's PVC thread, and it reassured me about all that. And if I got an extra screw, so be it.

and dragon, that's all design features. Nice mockup though, and frankly I'm jealous that you made such a confident one, but then happy cuz you made it for my sake, and a thousand thanks to you good sir. But really, this is all cheap stuff, real simple to take apart. I think I might make the grip with a different material to make it more shallow, but I like the other parts. The 'pommel' makes it easy to put a D-ring belt clip on (with a screw, a washer, and a sink strainer). and I have thought about taking off the emitter part to make it look slimmer, but basically I'm still flip-flopping between what parts get to stay on.

[DragonStar]

I think I might make the grip with a different material to make it more shallow, but I like the other parts.

Well, that (and functionality) is all that matters.

[Crystal Chambers]

You need a thumb screw or a set screw, not both. Have you been reading posts by Crystal Chambers? :rolleyes:

A thumb screw can be a little ugly on some sabers, but you don't need a tool for it when you want to loosen it to remove your blade.

A set screw is more unobtrusive, but you will need a hex key/allen wrench for it.

I'm not sure what you don't understand about what drill and tap set you need for those screws. They are both 8/32, so you need the 8/32 drill and tap set. Make sense?

On the Store page, it also tells you that you need a 5/64 allen wrench for the set screw.

The other dimension listed with screws is the length.

In case you're wondering, the 8 has to do with the diameter of the screw, and the 32 is how many threads it has per inch.

Hey now....I said a retention screw. I see I wasn't the only one confused by Jay-gon's PVC thread.

Personally in your situation I would opt to go with a 12"chrome plated brass sinktube then the plastic.

[Rookie162]

Hey now....I said a retention screw. I see I wasn't the only one confused by Jay-gon's PVC thread.

Personally in your situation I would opt to go with a 12"chrome plated brass sinktube then the plastic.

again, that's personal preference. Though, I have considered making another sink tube, this time machined with style... I might do that once I get the money.

and as far as the retention screw stuff... well I bought a set screw and a retention screw, so sue me. I kinda liked the idea of being able to easily loosen the blade with the thumbscrew, yet not having to thread the hole for it. it's much easier for me to do it that way, plus I'm liking this whole 'made out of whatever's lying arond' idea (despite the blade.)

Really, I'm just going for basics for now. Once I can afford more jazz, Ima get myself the sound, which, depending on all the specifics, can hopefully add the effect of it going out of and returning into the hilt.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Nothing wrong with starting out basic, getting a feel for the techniques, then working up from there when you have more money to do so. :)

[Rookie162]

preeeecisely.

[Crystal Chambers]

Don't you still need to thread a hole for your retention screw? I think either screw you get you will need this. The one Jay-gon used on pvc wasn't a set screw, it just looks alot like one, and with all the info to retain it's easy to make that mistake.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Yes you need to drill and tap for the blade retention screw in the blade holder.

[Rookie162]

so I still need to make a threaded hole for the set screw? I've decided I'd rather use a set screw and retention screw... I can do that, can't I? Put the set screw at a decent spot, and just use the retention screw (inside the set screw) normally?

I just don't want to have to thread a hole. I don't really have the best tools for that, and don't feel like buying them

EDIT: or buy the furniture/set screw that jay-gonn used so I don't have to thread the hole?

[Jedi-Loreen]

I don't understand what you mean about using a "set screw and a retention screw". Unless you're erroneously calling the threaded insert a "set screw", which it is not.

You can't use those threaded inserts on a blade holder, they are too long, the threads in them are too far apart and the blade holder isn't thick enough. Where Jay-gon uses them they are going through 2 pieces of PVC. I don't even know if they would cut their own threads into aluminum or not.

[Rookie162]

I don't understand what you mean about using a "set screw and a retention screw". Unless you're erroneously calling the threaded insert a "set screw", which it is not.

haha, you just hit the nail on the head... wow. and i thank you for that.


You can't use those threaded inserts on a blade holder, they are too long, the threads in them are too far apart and the blade holder isn't thick enough. Where Jay-gon uses them they are going through 2 pieces of PVC. I don't even know if they would cut their own threads into aluminum or not.

okay okay, that clears up the last of my concerns now. And it turns out the end of my hilt is mostly plastic with a chrome finish (I tried to see what I could do with making it look 'used' and took a rotary tool to an inconspicuous part of it (assuming the chrome layer was over brass, just as the sink tube). I only took a very tiny flake of chrome off and got to the gray plastic.) But you know what, I consider this a learning experience, and it's not like there's no turning back; if I screw it up I can go to Lowe's and get a new emitter end for 8 bucks or a 12" sink tube for about the same price, machining it to look cool. (I didn't realize I had a rotary tool in my basement until last week, ha.)

and if i continue to look dumb doing this, by all means tell me what I'm saying wrong. I'm not really ashamed of being wrong, especially when this is my first saber and first time really getting a 'do it yourself' experience with metals, wiring, and the whole setup really.

and if all fails with the screw madness, is it possible that I could use 'stuffing' to make a tight fix with the blade? I'm not that concerned with being able to remove it, and if it's not as easy as unscrewing a screw, then i'll have to figure it out from there. If I did that, what material should/shouldn't I use? (i've got sticky tack, electrical tape, I could cram some paper or clothe in there, who knows what.) Heck, if things continue to get weird and screwy (not pun intended) maybe the blade is a tight fit into the blade holder anyway. doubtful, but possible imo.

[Rookie162]

so my saber turned out really well, though I had to buy and machine a new piece of sinktube. Everyone that's seen it is impressed, so I'm happy. I only really had trouble soldering all the connections, and the heatsink didn't align properly with the LED star, but I worked around it despite having some iffy wire bendings.

[Jedi-Loreen]

So where's the pics? ;)


I don't understand why you had problems with the heat sink they're designed for LED stars to fit right. It's probably something you weren't doing quite right.