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Marsupial
05-12-2006, 12:49 PM
I currently have one Anaking EP2 MRFX sound board, and don't know how to power it.

I am not even talking about hooking it to other hardware, simply to making it work.

Anyone have info on making this work??

the anakin EP2 is small, round, and the sensors are wired.

-Mars

Firebird21
05-12-2006, 12:54 PM
Do you have the Battery pack?

The speaker is in the Battery pack, so with out that, or the LEDs it's useless to even try.

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sabre.gif http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/auto/car-smiley-032.gif Official Designated TCSS Jester! http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrinjackbox.gif

xwingband
05-12-2006, 01:06 PM
I sure hope you didn't open up a EP2 Anaking for the board if it was working... selling one of those could get you a half dozen newer ones.

I'll edit in a thread with a pic of the boards. I think you are forgeting that the EP2 Ani was EL and is a higher voltage.

EDIT: Here's the pic-
http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/7000/img03050dg.jpg
If I had to hazard a guess I'd say purple and black are the battery leads, and the red goes to the EL. Not sure at becauase I've never had one but it makes sense with what's there. Ultra would probably know this one.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6703/xwing8az.gif</center>

james3
05-12-2006, 01:41 PM
[:0]
Lord I hope that thing was already broke.

Like xwing said that puppy was an EL saber running on 9 volts. You need to drive the board with a 6 pack of AA's or for a quick blast just pop a 9 volt on there.

My AOTC Anakin is in the loving care of my brother so I don't have one on me to help to much but I remember there was a low voltage cutoff on there so it could be you didn't give her enough juice.

EDIT- For those of you that don't remember or haven't seen one before it's the light blue one in the hands of my brother hunched over doing the Ole' Ben thing. It really is a beautiful saber.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/James3sig.jpg</center>

Firebird21
05-12-2006, 03:13 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

I think you are forgeting that the EP2 Ani was EL and is a higher voltage.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

There are/were MR EL's?

No kidding...

The first one I ever saw was Darth Vader in Spencer Gifts last Fall `05.


Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sabre.gif http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/auto/car-smiley-032.gif Official Designated TCSS Jester! http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrinjackbox.gif

xwingband
05-12-2006, 06:16 PM
The first two were EL, the Anakin EP2 and Luke ROTJ. The Anaking was a 2002 release and the Luke 2003.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6703/xwing8az.gif</center>

Marsupial
01-19-2007, 11:19 PM
The Anakin EP2 sound board was sent to me by someone on another forum. It was from a broken hilt - he was to salvage other parts and was happy to get rid of the electronics. Nevertheless, the guy told me he managed to get some audio output before dismantling all of it.

Since then I got 2 other of the same board, thanks to Corbin (I still have to ship you back the sensors)

All in all, I didn't manage to get sound from any of those. All I managed to do was to accidentaly shock myself with the inverter.

I tried various voltage from 4 to 10, running most of the time on a 6-AA battery pack. I tried with and without the inverter, the sensors, different speakers, different switches... various combination of the above as well.



Its the one on the right on xwingband's picture - everything is identified on that, its hard to figure out what can be wrong once all is attached properly, and all being mentionned with specific connectors, you shouldn't be able to go wrong.

I am starting to think that eiher we actually need to have an EL blade to have the sound running, or I had been unlucky and got 3 defect.

So... no luck so far. Anyone have more info?
I'd love to know how the switch is wired (none of them had a switch)

SilentBob501
01-20-2007, 09:58 AM
Wow, are the ani ep2 EL sabers really that valuable? I have one, its in basically new condition too. How much do people buy those for?

Lord Maul
01-20-2007, 10:13 AM
2-300 bucks if it is mint condition. yeah, those are the first MR sabers and people like them a lot, despite their totally obnoxious hilt size

Marsupial
01-20-2007, 10:41 AM
when I see them on ebay, they sell in the 50-100$ range.

However, I don't want one, I only want to know how to wire the soundboard... its the smallest sound board ever made for lightsaber, IMHO.

Lord Maul
01-20-2007, 12:52 PM
the 50-100 buck ones have stuff messed up with them. i have seen a mint condition one go for around 250$ :shock:

Marsupial
01-20-2007, 10:53 PM
The ones I saw on ebay weren't messed-up. I think the market for that saber just isn't what it used to be.

ti-el_terall
01-20-2007, 11:02 PM
The ones I saw on ebay weren't messed-up. I think the market for that saber just isn't what it used to be.

Kind of a shame, this is one of my favorite sabers. Iv seen them sell for usually $180 - $250 mint and a displayed one could be $50 - $100.

You could also try reconnecting everything, but it might need the El wire to work properly.

Marsupial
01-20-2007, 11:25 PM
The ones I saw on ebay weren't messed-up. I think the market for that saber just isn't what it used to be.
You could also try reconnecting everything, but it might need the El wire to work properly.

That is something I started to think... maybe there's some EL feedback missing.
I'd be very happy to have a complete saber to check out... :(
Maybe I should treat myself and get one.

jjshumpert
01-21-2007, 07:31 AM
i believe your seeing these sabers from a dealer called hiatt enterprises, if you look at the mr product code its for the rots ani, but the picture in the listing is always of the aotc hilt...

i some of the first hilts when hiatt started dealings sabers, and i was lucky enough to actually get 2 aotc hilts. one was the original el release with everything in mint condition. the second aotc turned out to be a mr factory goof, and is lit by the 64 string led package found in the later sabers. both im happy to say are safely under lock and key and will prob go to pay for my daughters' college tuition

Marsupial
01-21-2007, 09:08 AM
I never heard of hiatt enterprises

In fact, one of the first generation Anakin Ep2 is currently on sale from a friend of mine in Ontario on ebay at a non-bidded starting bid of 50$, with the aunction time running down.

Lightsaber price on ebay is something that goes up and down...

but the point of this thread isn't to discuss ifever your anakin EP2 is pricey or not, but to discuss its sound board.

xwingband
01-21-2007, 09:22 AM
You sound like Marsmaster with the reference to buying from Corbin. I never could get the danged board to work even after I paid attention to the switch.

It has to be EL feedback needed or something. I can't even hook mine up to the blade anymore though. The person who had mine cut the leads really close.

Marsupial
01-21-2007, 11:00 AM
You're right X-Wing, Marsmaster is me.
When I registered on ASAP, some dude had stolen my name so I came up with a replacement... being Mars (upial) Master (as in Master Jedi) - I did try several other stuff before and was getting ready to use a number if this wouldn't work.


As for the audioboard, I tried tons of combination, even with the inverter connected to the sound board (but without any EL as I don't own any... but I might be willing to get one saber setup like that so we might have an answer. Tho there was some power output to the EL leads.)
Nothing seams to work. Period. not like I am receiving a wrong sound or anything, no audio would get out of the speaker. Tried several speakers, several ways to connect the sound board, several sound boards, several voltage... I'm litterally out of idea.
I know that these sabers had a high defect rate, particularly on sound. Maybe the soundboards were easy to fry or something. I've heard about "warming delay" on those, but I haven't try leaving the device plugged for 10 minutes to see if I hear something. Maybe I should. If I get some EL blade, I surely will give a try.


I was tempted to get one of luke MR EL soundboard on the scratched aunctions, but decided I had ennough non-working saber as is...

Its a real bummer, as this is the smallest sound board I have ever seen for a lightsaber, and it would be easy to integrate on smaller hilt designs. Plus, if I can figure it out, I have up to 3 of those that could be working...

Oh, well. I'll try again another time.

Matt Thorn
12-28-2008, 08:48 PM
Reviving an old thread here. I just got a broken 2002 Anakin for 6880 yen (about $76 U.S.). Idiot that I am, I didn't even realize I was bidding on the 2002 EL model. I just saw "Anakin" "FX lightsaber" and "junk" and bid on the thing. Should have looked more carefully at the photos. :oops: Anyway, it just arrived, and I haven't even opened the saber.

Assuming the sound board works, I'd like to convert it to a Luxeon. I've seen that someone converted one using a 616 board, but I'd like to use the original sound board along with a Buckpuck, if possible. Does anyone know of any tutorials on how to convert a 2002 Anakin Episode II to a Luxeon? Also, someone mentioned something in passing about "color changing". Does this saber have the ability to change colors? Blue to red, or something like that? Not that I'd really want to preserve such a function: just curious.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Dark Navel
12-28-2008, 09:02 PM
Do a search on Anakin AOTC..LDM has a whole tutorial on how to convert it using the 616. If you want it to change colors you'll have to follow his directions or go with a tri-rebel. If you do have an original soundcard, the small circular one, I would set it aside as these were prone to many problems or don't work at all.

Jedi-Loreen
12-28-2008, 09:07 PM
I was going to ask him if he read this thread, before posting in it.

Um, are you sure it was an LED saber? The 2002 Anakin was EL. The board is different than what comes with the LED sabers.

And, MR FX sabers have never been color changing.

Matt Thorn
12-28-2008, 09:32 PM
Do a search on Anakin AOTC..LDM has a whole tutorial on how to convert it using the 616. If you want it to change colors you'll have to follow his directions or go with a tri-rebel. If you do have an original soundcard, the small circular one, I would set it aside as these were prone to many problems or don't work at all.

Thanks, Dark Navel. I just got it open and popped in some batteries. The sound and clash is working fine, but it sure is quiet compared with later boards. No light, but I think I see how the color change works. (Moving the switch towards the pommel without pushing down apparently changes the color. To turn the saber off, you have to push down while sliding the switch back. Pretty clever.) Unfortunately, I can't figure out how to remove the electronics from the upper part of the hilt. Obviously I have to do something in the area of the switch, but I don't want to break anything. I'll look for LDM's tutorial.

EDIT: Oops. I missed Jedi Loreen's post. Yes, I read the thread. :) I meant to type "LE", not "LED". :oops: I corrected it. The tip of the blade is loose, and peeking down into the blade, I can see it's the film-type LE you described. Plus, it says "2002" on the hilt. :D

Jedi-Loreen
12-28-2008, 09:57 PM
I'm still confused, since you typed LE, and I typed EL for ElectroLuminescent.

And I still don't know what you're talk about regarding color changing. MR's did not have that feature, especially of it was the Anakin EL saber.

Kal El Rah
12-28-2008, 10:02 PM
Here is the link to LDMs Tutorial;

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6272;)

Jay-gon Jinn
12-28-2008, 10:05 PM
Thanks, Dark Navel. I just got it open and popped in some batteries. The sound and clash is working fine, but it sure is quiet compared with later boards. No light, but I think I see how the color change works. (Moving the switch towards the pommel without pushing down apparently changes the color. To turn the saber off, you have to push down while sliding the switch back. Pretty clever.) Unfortunately, I can't figure out how to remove the electronics from the upper part of the hilt. Obviously I have to do something in the area of the switch, but I don't want to break anything. I'll look for LDM's tutorial.

EDIT: Oops. I missed Jedi Loreen's post. Yes, I read the thread. :) I meant to type "LE", not "LED". :oops: I corrected it. The tip of the blade is loose, and peeking down into the blade, I can see it's the film-type LE you described. Plus, it says "2002" on the hilt. :D

Matt, this saber does not have the color change capabilities as you have it. LDM's tutorial is saying that you'll need to change the soundboard out for one of the Joe Jedi 616 soundboards in order to convert the saber from "EL" to LED.

Jedi-Loreen
12-28-2008, 10:33 PM
Ok, now I understand what he was confused about, which, in turn, was confusing me.

Matt Thorn
12-28-2008, 10:52 PM
I'm still confused, since you typed LE, and I typed EL for ElectroLuminescent.

And I still don't know what you're talk about regarding color changing. MR's did not have that feature, especially of it was the Anakin EL saber.

You're still confused because I'm still confusing. A bit of dyslexia there. "Correction" corrected. :oops: The color-change thing was my misreading of someone's post. That must have been a reference to the color-change in the Joe Jedi saber.

Unfortunately, I haven't got a Joe Jedi to use for a conversion. I have one functioning MR board from a 2005 (?) Mace Windu, and a bunch of cheap Hasbro boards. But LDM's video tutorial is giving me ideas about how I might be able to make a conversion without a 616. (Joe Jedi Construction Sets simply can't be found for less than about $120 U.S. in Japan, and shipping costs make it pointless to buy one from an overseas vendor.) What I'm thinking of is using a Darth Maul conversion kit in the way Jedi-Diah did with a Hasbro Obi-Wan (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6717). I have no idea if it will fit/work, but I'll see what can be done. Thanks for the tips, all.

Matt Thorn
12-28-2008, 11:57 PM
Does anyone know what would happen if I were to connect a blue Luxeon III directly to the leads for the EL without any kind of resistor? Smoke and a dead Lux? The resistor chart says I would need a 5.6 ohm10 watt resistor to run a blue Lux with 9 volts, but I'm wondering if the forward voltage (or amperage or whatever--sorry, I'm an electronics noob) coming through the Anakin EP2 board would be different (and not require a resistor). Obviously the easiest way to find out would be to hook one up, but I'd rather not risk a Lux. ;) Conversely, I wonder if the old Anakin board can run on 4.8 or 6 volts. That would be less risky to test on my own, I suppose.

Jedi-Loreen
12-29-2008, 12:05 AM
Don't try it. An EL inverter outputs high frequency AC current. Not low voltage DC.

The current coming out of the inverter hurts, I imagine it'll probably fry an LED quickly.

Matt Thorn
12-29-2008, 01:21 AM
Don't try it. An EL inverter outputs high frequency AC current. Not low voltage DC.

The current coming out of the inverter hurts, I imagine it'll probably fry an LED quickly.

Thanks, Jedi Loreen! I guessed from the big hunk of heavy something on the board that it was not your standard source of DC electricity. :p In any event, either the board that runs the EL or the EL sheet itself is fried.

Happily, I conducted some harmless tests and discovered that the sound board will run just fine on either 4.8 or 6 volts. In fact, the 9 volt battery pack is wired so that the sound board gets only 6 volts. Only the LE driver was getting the full 9 volts. So I chopped off the EL board entirely. :D

The sound driver (clash and motion sensors included) works fine. The switch seems to be a DPDT (six posts, four used), so I'm pretty sure I can simply hook up a Luxeon and it should work. The question is how exactly to do so. I took a photo of what I have. I'll label things with Photoshop and post it here. I should be able to figure this one out myself, even with my dearth of the leetle gray cells, but I'm always happy to get help, and this info may be useful to someone in the future. If all works out well, I'll post a proper wiring diagram to the proper forum, and maybe a tutorial, as well.

Matt Thorn
12-29-2008, 01:50 AM
Here's the promised photo. I think it should not be difficult to decipher.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SViNtRsDJiI/AAAAAAAAAI4/eAyFXiUu5aA/s400/anakin_aotc.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jbl6zIcqAVBJmUK98bwhpQ?feat=embedwebsite)
I will probably use a 4aaa pack (4.8v), and will have to make a common positive lead from the battery pack to the sound board and the LED. (As it is, the EL driver is wired to get 9v.) You may be able to see that the yellow leads from the switch both lead to the EL driver. (The yellow wire in the central pair of posts is joined to the positive lead from the battery pack, the yellow wire from the upper/forward pair of posts was attached directly to the EL driver board.)

Any suggestions?

Matt Thorn
12-29-2008, 04:18 AM
Wow. That was so easy, even I could do it. I'll post a wiring diagram soon. Basically, you replace the 6aa pack with a 4aaa pack; have the sound board and the Luxeon share the positive lead from the battery; attach one of the yellow wires from the switch to the negative lead of the Luxeon, and the other yellow wire to the negative lead on the sound board that had formerly led to the EL driver. Does that make sense? Who knew it could be so easy? Of course, now I have to get it all to fit snugly into the hilt. :rolleyes: For that, I'll have to wait for my Darth Maul conversion kit to arrive from TCSS. In the meantime, I'm going to try to find some way to make those red and green decorative "lights" on the side of the hilt actually light up. It'll have to be a pretty compact solution, because it will have to fit between the inner wall of the hilt and the aluminum tube of the conversion kit.

This is fun. :D And then I'll sell the thing for a huge amount of money on Yahoo! Auctions Japan. :p

Matt Thorn
12-29-2008, 07:56 PM
Here's the promised wiring diagram. I'll post it over on the "Cutaway views and wiring schematics" forum. After I have the necessary parts for putting everything in the hilt, I'll post a tutorial.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SVl7-KHQdBI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/_GrEAC9xSGw/s400/anakin_aotc_luxeon3.png (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Rt-8QItCXH1zxbD_K8ny8g?feat=embedwebsite)
Here's the EL board that is amputated and discarded (or kept as a paperweight: it's heavy.)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SVmMUcR90wI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/NOLbLmKVKRY/s144/IMG_0274.JPG (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zCpS494aFWXezrNN3whi0g?feat=embedwebsite)

P.S.: Since I've never seen an LE in operation (except in videos), I was disappointed that I couldn't get this one to work. Although it looks horrible in the clear blade (They could have at least used a white blade, or a sanded blade--it just looks like a rolled up length of paper in the blade), the technology seems pretty cool to me, particularly after reading Jedi Loreen's explanation. The first thing that struck me when I opened the saber was the pungent, chemical smell. It seems to come from the EL sheet. I wonder if that's the smell of the phosphorus. Compared with Master Replica's later work, you can tell they were winging this one. I suppose it was the first commercially produced "real lightsaber". Certainly light years ahead of the toy lightsaber I had back in 1977(?), but quaint by today's standards. I'm not so in love with the Episode II Anakin saber that I'll want to keep this one, but it is fun to work with.

ARKM
01-04-2009, 03:09 PM
That is an excellent diagram and just what I needed to salvage my Anakin saber sound board for use in another hilt. Too bad I can no longer find the motion sensor. :evil:

Matt Thorn
01-04-2009, 06:52 PM
That is an excellent diagram and just what I needed to salvage my Anakin saber sound board for use in another hilt. Too bad I can no longer find the motion sensor. :evil:

There's probably some way to replace the motion sensor with a different one. But I think first you'd have to figure what the third wire on this sensor is for. I don't recall ever seeing another sensor with three wires. :confused: I have a feeling that thick wire set-up has something to do with shielding the wires from the electromagnetic noise generated by the EL film tube the wires pass through in the original setup. Jedi Loreen might understand this better.

Matt Thorn
01-05-2009, 07:53 PM
For anyone else who might be interested, I did a bit of experimenting and found the (very simple) answer, which I posted here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=117217&postcount=2).

Cern
04-14-2010, 10:58 AM
Hmm. i just bought a board off ebay listed as an AOTC Anakin board. it has the speaker, sound board, and 6aa battery pack all in one unit. is this the same thing?

I figured it would save me time soldering. guess not huh?

Skottsaber
04-14-2010, 11:27 AM
I guess we'll have to see the pictures before we can identify the board.

Kal El Rah
04-15-2010, 02:14 PM
Hmm. i just bought a board off ebay listed as an AOTC Anakin board. it has the speaker, sound board, and 6aa battery pack all in one unit. is this the same thing?

I figured it would save me time soldering. guess not huh?

Does it look like Matts setup, if it does, then it's the same, they did make 2 versions on the aotc saber, v1 sucked big time, v2 still had problems.

p.s. 1+ year necro post ressurection

Cern
07-13-2010, 09:01 PM
sorry it took me so long to post pix. finally started actually working on this thing last night, and cant make head nor tails of what to wire where:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4791839391_9756c2f497_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4791839421_85f389c6de_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4792471356_e59b2859ea_b.jpg

Matt Thorn
07-13-2010, 09:18 PM
sorry it took me so long to post pix. finally started actually working on this thing last night, and cant make head nor tails of what to wire where:

I don't understand what you're confused about. Just look at posts #31 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=116368&postcount=31), #33 (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=116429&postcount=33), and this post (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=117217&postcount=2). I'm not sure how I can make it any more clear than that. :confused:

Cern
07-13-2010, 09:50 PM
i seem to have more wires on this than on your diagram. im guessing they have to do with the old EL setup.

I have the two orange ones that are attached to the clash sensor, but then there is a blue wire paired with a yellow one coming off a connector i am assuming goes to the switch? i dont have a motion sensor, got this off ebay and they didnt send me one. not too worried about that right now

does the yellow wire that goes to the other side of the switch com directly off the board? I have the one yellow like that, but i also have a pair of yellow and black attached with a connector. theres also a green and grey wire coming off the board that i dont know what to do with.

So do i need a DPDT switch for this or would a momentary work?

sorry for the questions. first time i've worked on a MRFX board, and i would buy the one thats a trainwreck out of the gate. First saber used a old Hasbro Qui-gonn, and i think i got that working by sheer luck

Cern
07-29-2010, 07:10 PM
Gah, still waiting for the new switch and sensor to come in. leaving for Otacon tonite, bet it comes in tomorrow. Grr.

Cern
10-15-2010, 11:56 PM
Ok, on a beak between classes for the next few days, and want to finish this. Having problems though

Matt's diagram seems to have less wires than the board i have, but it is definitely from an EL saber, the inverter doorstop was right there, as well as a plug labeled 9V. Heres what i have so far:

I have 4 AA's in a battery pack soldered to the board on the spot labeled +6v

Premium speaker soldered to spot labeled SPK

Now, i see a blue and yellow wire coming off the board on a spot labeled ON/OFF, which i am assuming is where the switch goes. Problem is when i tap or hold wires together nothing happens

there is a clash sensor attached with orange wires, and some plug with 3 leads labeled P11 or Pl1, text is a bit fuzzy

theres a yello wire by itself connected directly to board near the 9V plug, and a green and purplish wires soldered directl to the board near the ON/OFF. there is epoxy on the board at the solder point so i cant read any label they may have

Any ideas what I am doing wrong? i really want to finish this before my classes start again , because otherwise i wont get time until christmas probably

Thanks :-\

Matt Thorn
10-17-2010, 11:33 PM
Cern, a couple of clear photos of your set-up would help us to help you. But I'm afraid you may be putting a lot of effort into something you will ultimately be unsatisfied with. (At least, that was my experience with the Anakin AOTC EL.)

Cern
10-19-2010, 04:38 AM
Thanks Matt.

I wanted to make sure the sound on this was wired right before I crammed it in the hilt. (learned that lesson the hard way)

Here is what I have so far:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/genin-x/5096571030/

This is just checking the sound set up, so all i have soldered in is the speakers and the batteries

The other side looks like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/genin-x/5095974273/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/genin-x/5095974333/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/genin-x/5096570696/in/photostream/

The yelow and Blue wires are maked ON OFF so Im guessing that those are the switch wires. And the Orange goes to the sensor. But I dont know what the other wires that arent connected to those mini Molex connectors are for

Matt Thorn
10-19-2010, 08:44 AM
Wow. That is a lot more complicated than the boards I've worked with. I think what you have there is a "Version 3". There were three versions of the Anakin AOTC (the first Force FX lightsaber) released in 2002. Version 3 added an automatic shut-down feature. I'm afraid you are in uncharted waters now. Good sailing! :D

Cern
10-19-2010, 12:55 PM
Frak.

Was afraid you were going to say that. Any ideas though?