Please help with my list. First Hilt complete. Kinda like C3P0

[Onlyone]

Can anyone give me some advice on my Parts list?(Pics below)

Description So Far

- 100% Brass
- 1.5" sink tube
- Entire hilt has atleast a 1" ID, and atleast 1.25" ID X 2" at the pummel.
- Entire hilt is 11"
- Decorated with brass painted pvc, looks like two finishes, worked well.

Goals

- I wanna do this right but could upgrade the buttons, LEDs and charge port later.
- Blade (purple)
- I love the core look with a flare at the base.
- Solid for battle
- Matching accent LEDs or even red and blue. Not sure where to put them.


Sound
- I'm interested in ultrasound but I'm open to most cost a effective solution...
- fading light and sound on start up and shut down
- shimmering/humming variation
- clashing sound and light
- Various swings
- and accent LED operation



Shopping List

- Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit
- Seoul p4 white
- 4aa battery holder......................................upgrad e to charger port later
- 10 degree lense
- 3.3 ohm 5 watt resister
- SPST MOM switch black button............................upgrade later to gold
- Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
- Luxeon star heat sink
- Corbin Battle blade,30-34"
- Double wrap film?
- 12 color discs...purple/ more red then blue
- Ultrasound 2.5
- Premium speaker

and of course some colored wires, heat shrink, and a few quick releases.

blade holder shouldn't be needed as I have an abs tube with 1"ID 3inches long in the emitter section.
Due to the thicker shroud I will need a longer blade retention screw.

I could build a chassis for soundcard/batterry easily I believe but any suggestions are welcome.

The blade activation switch will be in the center of the grip section. Not sure about power switch...

Any help suggestions or feedback would be awesome!

[Jedi-Loreen]

You didn't make a good first impression with some of us with your original Username that Stydur had to edit because it was inappropriate, maybe some people are holding that against you? :|

That aside, why do you think you need 2 switches? A "blade activation" and a "power" switch? You only need one, unless you're talking about some kind of cut off switch to keep power going to the board, when not in use.

How much does your saber come apart, other than the end cap unscrewing? I don't know if you have enough space for everything you want to do, because most of your hilt looks like it's only 1" ID, it looks like you only used the 1.5 sink tube in a couple of places to make the outside thicker. The AAA and AA battery holders are a little longer than 2", which you state is the length of you "pummel" section, which is the only place those are going to fit, and if your main hilt is really 1" ID, I'm pretty sure an Ultrasound isn't going to fit inside it.

And that sink strainer hanging out the bottom is not attractive, you could have at least painted it to match the rest of the saber. I'm assuming that's where you'll have to put your speaker, because it won't fit anywhere else, your battery holder is going to be hanging out the back, as it is.

If I were you, I'd keep this saber very basic with just a direct drive LED set up, and design a new saber with more room to use the other features that you want, accent LEDs, sound...

[Onlyone]

Yeah..sorry about the user name...I didn't think too much about it and just threw it out there. I thought it was funny and relatively harmless but I guess I was wrong. :oops:
I guess I was wrong about the switches too.

The bottom easily unscrews and the rest can be taking into three pieces by removing 8 screws. It has 3 main sink tube pieces. 2 of which have a max ID of 1.5, except where there's over lap for screws.
Entire hilt has a minimal 1" ID, the space I left for soundcard/battery starts at 1.2" ID x 1" and opens to 1.5" ID x 2.25"
Activation switch and accent LED space is 1.5" ID x 3/4"

The sink strainer is tempered, blacken and scuffed but I guess that didn't translate well in the photo.

I realize it's gonna be a tight fit but I spend way way to much time on this to give up on sound. Now that I gave more accurate measurement, does this sound possible space wise? If so I just need to know if my list is on par with my goals.

Thanks for giving me the heads up and some thorough criticism. Totally appreciated. :grin:

[Onlyone]

Also...making a new butt end of my hilt to ad an extra inch if need is not an issue. That end took the least amount of work and at 11" long another wouldn't hurt.

The biggest question I have now is my parts list and battery recommendation...can't seem to find power requirements for what I need anywhere.

[$tarkiller]

lol, they would probably get offended at "Crap". lol, jk j-lo.

[Onlyone]

ah oh!...

Don't mean to be Whiney the Pooh...but I have more questions..hehe

ok...If I'm making sense of this I only need a 2AA battery holder because two trustfire AAs will adequately power US 2.5 and a P4 but what about 2 accent LEDs?

Once I know the power requirements and compatibility of my parts list I can make room to fit them.

I also read that pvc blade holders don't need heatsinks...if so I have pvc with brass sink tube outside of it.

[Jedi-Loreen]

At 3.7V each, 2 Trustfires are too much voltage if you're using a P4. You need to match the voltage to the LED more closely when using a US 2.5. The excess voltage will be bled off as heat, making the board extremely hot with too much extra voltage above what the LED needs, even hot enough to melt the solder holding the components onto it.

Right in the Store, as part of the US 2.5 description, it says:

Battery input voltage:
Maximum for board = 9.6V
Minimum/Maximum for Luxeon 3, K2, P4 = 4.5V / 7.2V (6V recommended)
Minimum/Maximum for Luxeon 3,P4 Red/Amber = 4.8V / 6.0V
Minimum for Luxeon 5 = 7.2V
IMPORTANT! (be sure to use the correct voltage/power with corresponding LED type)


And, you will need a heat sink for your P4, you may need to make one to fit inside your hilt. You have to mount your LED on something, after all. I'm not sure how well a heat sink will work inside a PVC hilt, but it will help draw at least SOME of the heat from the LED.

One of the great things about Tim's MHS design is that the Store's heat sink is sandwiched between the main body/extension/choke and the blade holder, allowing heat to transfer from the heat sink, essentially using the whole saber as a giant heat sink.

High powered LEDs, if I remember correctly, don't work as efficiently when they get hot, and get dimmer, the hotter they get.

A lot of people who make PVC sabers only use Lux 1s in them, and they don't get hot enough to need a heat sink. That's not true for Lux 3s, P4s or any of the LEDs you can buy from the Store.

If you use 6V, you'll have no problem running a couple of accent LEDs from the board.

[Onlyone]

I read that ....
It seemd to me if the board uses 6V to drive the p4 and the accent LEDs are 2V each I thought it would take 10V.

The other batteries on the site don't have voltage info, so now I need to find out how to achieve 6V.....

I did some reading on heatsinks and it seems relatively simple. Just a matter of finding way to avoid too many screws. I will most likely use some MHS parts in my next build but this is already gonna run me over 300 by the time its done, which is a bit much for me. Plus I like being hands on and doing more crafting.

[Jedi-Loreen]

6V is easily achieve with 4 AA or AAA alkaline batteries, they are 1.5 each.

1.5 x 4 = 6 ;)

It's harder if you want to use rechargables though, the Tenergy ones Tim carries in the Store are only 1.2V each.