How much?!?!?!?!?!

[Paar Ad]

OMIGOD!

I knew saber building was expensive but my saber total comes out to a daunting total of 349.05!!! (+ shipping!)

Of course I am to blame because here is the part list:

MHS Hilt style 3 with Standard switch hole - $30.00
MHS Pommel Style 4 - $5.99
MHS Choke Style 1 (short version) - $9.00
Screw on LED Blade Holder Style 17 - $24.85
UltraSound 2.5 - $119.00
TCSS Blue Luxeon V Kit - $34.60
Green Luxeon V - $22.68
Red Luxeon III - $8.00
Amber Luxeon III - $8.00
White Luxeon III - $8.00
10 JST Wire Connectors - $0.55 cents each
Premium Speaker - $5.99
2 1-1/2" x 12" Chrome Sink Tubes - $6.20 each
Machined Covertec Button - $2.50
Covertec Clip - $11.99
5 Copper MHS LED Mounts/Heatsinks - $8.11 each

Wow! Sounds like i need to make some money! Any suggestions?!?!?

[theJUDGE]

why are you buying so many leds and heatsinks? if this is your first saber you should probably stick with the basics.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Probably just want's color options.. might want to go with the white led and the discs sold here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12-Colored-Discs--P164.aspx)

[FenderBender]

Probably just want's color options.. might want to go with the white led and the discs sold here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12-Colored-Discs--P164.aspx)


NO!

Having multiple LEDs and heatsinks on quick disonnects probably isn't a bad idea, you get the best colors and brightness that way.

[Jedi-Loreen]

You don't need to order 5 heat sinks, because one will come with your blade holder, so just order 4.

But you will need a different battery holder for the Lux 3 LEDs than what comes with the Lux 5 LED kit.

I also don't see an MPS Insert or Clip for your Pommel.

I have 5 different colored Lux 3 LEDs on heat sinks with Quick Disconnects, so I don't see anything weird about that. Except I didn't order them all at once. :p

[Shadar Al'Niende]

NO!

Having multiple LEDs and heatsinks on quick disonnects probably isn't a bad idea, you get the best colors and brightness that way.

I was just saying for a first saber (to get the feel for things) if he wants an easy option..

But as always..fender is right :mrgreen:

[Paar Ad]

I decided to order all the heatsinks and LED's because I figured that I could have all the colors i wanted in great quality if i used a quick change system. I do plan on ordering the color discs to use on the white. Also, can i run a Lux V off a 4AA holder?

[sekrogue1985]

start small and then expand. that is what i did.

[Kal El Rah]

I decided to order all the heatsinks and LED's because I figured that I could have all the colors i wanted in great quality if i used a quick change system. I do plan on ordering the color discs to use on the white. Also, can i run a Lux V off a 4AA holder?

What kinda batt. solution you gonna use?

4aa is 6v alk. batts, the LUX V runs at 6.85vf at 700-1000 ma. so it would be under-driven voltage wise by 1v.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Seems like he totally ignore my post. :neutral:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Well, I think someone needs to read this post by Tim (Strydur) regarding batteries, led's and the Ultrasound 2.5:

I think this statement may not be clear enough

Battery input voltage.
Maximum for board = 9.6V
Minimum for Luxeon 3 and K2 = 4.5V
Minimum for Luxeon 5 = 7.2V
IMPORTANT! (be sure to use the correct voltage/power with corresponding LED type)

What this means is DO NOT try and run your lux3 off of 9v or even 7.2v

For the 2.95-4v LED's (lux3, P4, K2, etc..) you should be running 6v MAX
If I were you, I'd drop the $23 Luxeon V', the Luxeon V lkit, the Trustfires and the Li-Ion charger, and go with a 4-AAA battery holder and the rechargeable NiMH batteries and charger Tim now has in the store.

Use the blue led electronics kit and green P4's instead of the Luxeon V's. That will cut quite a bit off the cost of the saber. I'd also take Jedi Loreen's advice and only buy 4 extra heatsinks, since the blade holder comes with one already included in it's price.

Oh, and btw, you'll need to order 8 nylon 4-40 screws as well to secure your led's to the heatsinks.

You will also need an 8-32 x 1/4" socket head screw to attach the machined covertec wheel to the hilt.

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

A white P4 would be 3 times brighter than the white Lux III and can be used on the same Ultrasound setting as the Lux III so is vastly superior esp with filters if you are using them.

[pipster79]

ok if your using a us2.5 you can scrap the lux v kit since u dont need a resister, and id forget that battery holder they use anyways and go with just a double a battery holder and 2 trustfires. also if you were going to go with the lux v kit anyway it comes with an led of your choice already. your going to need something to hold the speaker 2, so ur best bet is to get the ultrasound and battery holder/speaker holder combo

[Jay-gon Jinn]

ok if your using a us2.5 you can scrap the lux v kit since u dont need a resister, and id forget that battery holder they use anyways and go with just a double a battery holder and 2 trustfires. also if you were going to go with the lux v kit anyway it comes with an led of your choice already. your going to need something to hold the speaker 2, so ur best bet is to get the ultrasound and battery holder/speaker holder combo

If he were to do this, and then try to swap the led for a red Lux III, powered by a 7.4 Li-ion Trustfire set-up, that Ultrasound will get VERY HOT and components may actually de-solder....it has already happened to a member of another saber forum...Tim's post about matching the battery voltage to the intended led's is NO JOKE. It is be very highly not recommended to swap from Lux V's to Lux III's with this soundboard.

[Paar Ad]

Alright! Revised Parts list:

Hilt Style 3 w/ standard switch hole - $30.00
MPS Pommel style 4 - $5.99
MPS Clip - $0.79
MPS Insert style 6 - $5.10
MHS Choke Style 1 (short) - $9.00
Screw on LED blade holder style 17 - $24.85
UltraSound 2.5 - $119.00
White Seoul P4 Elec. Kit - $20.86
Lux III Green - $8.00
Lux III Red - $8.00
Lux III Blue - $8.00
Lux III Amber - $8.00
4 Copper MHS LED Mount/Heatsink - $8.11 each
8 4-40 Nylon Screw - $0.12 each
10 JST connectors - $0.55 each
Premium Speaker - $5.99
Machined Button for Covertec Clip - $2.50
8-32 x 1/4" socket head - $0.20
Covertec Clip - $11.99
2 1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube - $6.20 each

Total = $319.57

Any other suggestions?

[pipster79]

still need a battery holder and a speaker holder :)

[Jedi-Loreen]

Jay-gon suggested also using P4s for the green and blue, not Lux 3s, they are a little brighter.

He's probably not suggesting the red P4, because they can be finicky and like to burn out if you're not careful.

Pip, are you talking about the combo battery & speaker holder? Those look to be out of stock right now. He's ordering a P4 kit so he'll get a regular battery pack with that.

[Paar Ad]

still need a battery holder and a speaker holder :)

the battery holder comes with the elec. kit and i was gonna jerry rig a speaker mount:mrgreen:

[Paar Ad]

Jay-gon suggested also using P4s for the green and blue, not Lux 3s, they are a little brighter.

Pip, are you talking about the combo battery & speaker holder? Those look to be out of stock right now. He's ordering a P4 kit so he'll get a regular battery pack with that.

I saw that. I looked every where but i cant find any p4's besides white:(

[Jedi-Loreen]

Ok, I didn't look in the store. If you don't see them, that means they are currently out of stock. Tim does normally carry P4s in white, red, blue and green.

[Paar Ad]

I'm thinking about having one of the sink tubes powder coated gold and the other black. I was gonna cut these into different covers and see if i can set the saber up to be able to switch between the two. This way i can change the saber to more of a Sith look when i use the Red Lux III. Advice?

[Kal El Rah]

Cutting into pc can chip it away, it is just a hard polymer coating melted on to the metal, plus the tubes will need to be striped of all chrome.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Have you ever cut a sink tube before? I'm assuming you mean with a Dremel for some type of design, not just a tubing cutter. You'll need to be extremely careful doing this with already powder coated sink tubes, so you don't mess them up. People who have their own powder coating set up cut the pieces first, then power coat them.

You'd need to design something that could slip past the switch, where ever you place it, if you want to be able to swap the sleeves.

[Paar Ad]

I do mean with a dremel. i had already thought of the switch dilemma when i first posted that. Now thinking of the possible damage that i might cause to the PC, I might decide to go with etching primer and paint. I'll have to check the hardware store.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

the battery holder comes with the elec. kit and i was gonna jerry rig a speaker mount:mrgreen:

I have had to do this a few times myself. Get a short piece of 1" electrical conduit pvc (most hardware stores sell it by the foot) and you can cut a small ring off to use it as a speaker mount. It'll need to be thin enough to be able to fully screw the pommel onto the saber, but it works. The speaker can then be hot glued to the battery holder. for the amount of work involved, though, I might suggest getting the v2 speaker mount if you can afford to add it in.

The problem with using the P4 kit though, is you do not need the included resistor, or the latching switch. The Ultrasound requires a momentary switch to operate. I'd buy the led, lens holder, lens, battery holder and switch separately. It'll cost you $17.55, compared to 18.21 for the kit. It's only some change, but why get parts you don't need/cannot use? ;)

[Paar Ad]

why get parts you don't need/cannot use? ;)

I just figured that they came with the kit and i felt that it would always be nice just to have extra parts in case i needed them in the future:D

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I just figured that they came with the kit and i felt that it would always be nice just to have extra parts in case i needed them in the future:D

That's up to you...never a bad idea to have a few extra parts