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Shadar Al'Niende
09-17-2009, 01:15 PM
Before you let the title make you sigh (too late?) hear me out, im planning on ordering tomorrow and want to be sure on my parts.

On the wiring page, i see that the Royal Blue Lux III requires(?) 3.9 Forward Volts (I am assuming this means it needs 3.9v to run at full brightness.) and 1k mA. If I am understanding the info I got on this table on wiki (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_(electricity)) it says that AAA batteries put out 1.5v and 1250. (so far so good?)

With that said, Could I use 3 AAA batteries in a 4 AAA holder and a jumper to power this properly?

Keep in mind its a lux III Royal Blue driven by the US 2.5

Thanks guys.

Hasid Lafre
09-17-2009, 01:17 PM
Just use the 4 battery pack, the board does the rest.

And just in case, no you dont need a resistor or a puck.

Joe Light
09-17-2009, 01:19 PM
the problem with that is that with one battery missing from the holder there is an incomplete circuit and no electricity would flow. Use all 4 AAA's and get the right resistor and you'll be fine.

Shadar Al'Niende
09-17-2009, 01:21 PM
Right, the board drives it and controls the output.

If I use the 4 AAA and use a jumper I eliminate feeding the setup extra voltage (i.e. extra heat, 1 extra battery etc.) right?

Potentially i could save myself a battery and a save a small amount of life on the board right?

*edit*


the problem with that is that with one battery missing from the holder there is an incomplete circuit and no electricity would flow. Use all 4 AAA's and get the right resistor and you'll be fine.

that's why i would use the jumper, and also i won't need a resistor thanks to the US 2.5

Darth Demens
09-17-2009, 01:38 PM
Well, 4.5V is the absolute bare minimum you would need to feed the board for a LuxIII Blue. I'd recommend going with the full 6V though.

Hasid Lafre
09-17-2009, 01:41 PM
Just use the 6v battery holders and like I said no you do not need a resistor so stop suggesting a resistor.

He said hes using a us2.5, no resistor needed, use the 6v battery holders and be done with it.

Shadar Al'Niende
09-17-2009, 01:49 PM
Call me a noob. 6v battery holder?

are you referring to these? AA (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AA-battery-holder--P134.aspx) or AAA (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AAA-battery-holder-P133.aspx)?

I have a 4AAA in my cart...just wanting to make sure that will work. Also, a full 6v? Is that for the board or for the LED? I was thinking that i would only need 4.5 for the led as that exceeds the forward voltage of 3.9...am I missing something?

Hasid Lafre
09-17-2009, 01:53 PM
4 batterys at 1.5v each = 6v.
The soundboard is an led driver as well, thought everyone knew this?
There are a couple instinces where you dont use the soundboard to power the led, like the cheap hasbro boards.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
09-17-2009, 01:56 PM
Feed the US 6v. There's a setting in the setup menu to select Lux III as an option. Set that and the board will sort out what the LED needs.

Whether you use 4AAs or 4AAAs depends on how much space you have. AAs and AAAs both give out 1.5V each, so four will give you 6V. It just depends on how you plan things out. Of course, 4AAs will last longer than 4AAAs.

Shadar Al'Niende
09-17-2009, 02:00 PM
Thanks obi dar, thats what i thought. I was getting confused for a moment though.


Whether you use 4AAs or 4AAAs depends on how much space you have.

That is why I went for the 4AAA. I will have little space as it is.


The soundboard is an led driver as well, thought everyone knew this?

I knew the board drove the LED...i just wondered why it needed 6v as the led needs 3.9 so i figured what it must be a requirement of the board. Otherwise, why would i need 6v rather than 4.5?

*edit* Oh, and the speaker mounts are all sold out do i really need one? or can I just superglue one to the battery holder?

cardcollector
09-17-2009, 02:40 PM
I haven't used a speaker mount, I've always just glue the speaker to the botttom of the batteries and it has worked fine.
I've found that a hot glue gun works better for mounting the speaker. Rather then superglue, epoxie, etc.

Shadar Al'Niende
09-17-2009, 02:50 PM
Thanks cc! ;-)

eastern57
09-17-2009, 03:28 PM
On the wiring page, i see that the Royal Blue Lux III requires(?) 3.9 Forward Volts (I am assuming this means it needs 3.9v to run at full brightness.) and 1k mA. If I am understanding the info I got on...

You've got some good information. These guys helping you have got it down... so I'll just add "one kilo-milli-amp" is called "one amp" or 1A. :D ;)

Good luck!

Shadar Al'Niende
09-17-2009, 03:36 PM
ooooh, so 1k mA = 1A?

darn metric system and my crude learning! *shakes fist*

Maurnick
09-18-2009, 02:20 AM
That is why I went for the 4AAA. I will have little space as it is.

Keep in mind some NiCd and NiMH AAA rechargeables only put out 1.2v.

Kal El Rah
09-18-2009, 01:26 PM
All, not some single cell NiMhs and NiCads put out only 1.2v no matter what their mah rating is.

Shadar Al'Niende
09-18-2009, 01:27 PM
I am assuming this is why Li-Ion is preferred?

Kal El Rah
09-18-2009, 01:37 PM
The Li-Ions are rated at 3.7v , but their downfall is more complicated wiring to use them in series, which requires a pcb if you are going for in hilt recharging unless of coarse you are going to just take them out to recharge, then no worries and their low mah for size compared to NiMhs.aa and aaa Li-Ions only have a mah rating of 1000mah, the aa NiMhs can be found with up to 2700 mah. Hope that info helps you out some.