First saber parts list (with sabersound)

[Maurnick]

Here are the parts I hope to be able to use in my first saber.

I originally posted this in another thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9059) of mine discussing the saber sound card I had purchased might be d amaged.

I realised it might get a better response if posted here.

I've compiled the list. Keep in mind this is for the SaberSound card:

-Max input 10v

-Direct drives 3 watt leds at 1000mah with 6v input

-Can direct drive up to a LUX V

Please let me know of what I've missed. As I'm sure I have.

My wallet empties with this:

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole
Screw on LED blade holder style 1
Double ended male threaded connector
3" Fluted double female threaded connector
MPS Pommel style 4
MPS Insert style 7
SPST Momentary Guarded switch with blue button
Premium Speaker
Shouldered 1" thin walled blade tip with reflective disc
Mirrored adhesive disc for Stip3/4Thin
1" Thin walled Polycarbonate 40" long
Blade film (Quad wrap +$9.00, 1" Thin walled)
Luxeon III Star (Cyan)
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
Luxeon Collimator Lens 10 deg viewing angle
Luxeon star heatsink
4AA battery holder
10-32 x 1/4" set screw


Now a few questions/comments:

I've omitted a resistor because it states the board can direct drive the LuxIII. Would I need one anyway?

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to 4AAs as opposed to 4AAAs?

What exactly is the service (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machine-switch-hole-in-MHS-section-P189.aspx) for being able to accommodate this particular switch into the hilt? Is it just a matter of making the hole bigger? Because I can do that.

I chose another mirrored disc because I intend on using the smaller diameter so some light can escape the tip of the blade.

I chose both lenses because I don't know which I'll like.

I can drill and tap the blade holder myself.


Thanks for your time ;)

[DJMoonbass]

hey hey hey! nice list: okay you are missing one thing.... you need the MPS clip. how else will your insert stay in place?

also the advantage of AA over AAA is that the AAs hold more juice and thus run longer. but there big and take up more room.

the AAAs are smaller but have a less run time.

also i just realized you are missing some form of blade retention... i would suggest a thumb screw.

PEACE!

[Darth Quin]

saw you only have 1 led so the heat sink is not needed
one comes with the blade holder

[Hasid Lafre]

If you are using a mirror just scratch some of the material off, but if you use it in a larger id blade its going to get knocked off the first hit it takes.

[Ambo]

hey hey hey! nice list: okay you are missing

also i just realized you are missing some form of blade retention... i would suggest a thumb screw.



That is what the set screw is for.......




What exactly is the service (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machine-switch-hole-in-MHS-section-P189.aspx) for being able to accommodate this particular switch into the hilt? Is it just a matter of making the hole bigger? Because I can do that.

Thanks for your time ;)


You have the correct switch for the main section you have, the main section comes with the hole oyu need, no other custom work needs to be done.



If you are using a mirror just scratch some of the material off, but if you use it in a larger id blade its going to get knocked off the first hit it takes.

Mirrored adhesive disc for Stip3/4Thin

Hasid, that is the thin adhesive disc....not a mirror like use to be sold here.....they stopped selling the mirrors here a long bit ago...

Maurnick, you are fine to use that adhesive disc if you like.

[Maurnick]

hey hey hey! nice list: okay you are missing one thing.... you need the MPS clip. how else will your insert stay in place?

also the advantage of AA over AAA is that the AAs hold more juice and thus run longer. but there big and take up more room.

the AAAs are smaller but have a less run time.

Little bit of glue.

Gotcha! Thanks!



saw you only have 1 led so the heat sink is not needed
one comes with the blade holder

Bah! I knew that. Totally overlooked it. Thanks.



You have the correct switch for the main section you have, the main section comes with the hole oyu need, no other custom work needs to be done.

Maurnick, you are fine to use that adhesive disc if you like.

Excellent. Thanks.

[Ambo]

Little bit of glue.



YES!!

Someone else that knows the merrit of hot melt glue.....lol

[Zook]

with the sabersound you will be better off to go with two Li-ion batteries and a 1000 ma buck puck instead of 4aa or aaa. or maybe just one Li-ion straight but I would rather have the buck puck and know its getting the correct current.

The reason being is the statement you made about the sabersound is incorrect (SF says the manufacturer changed the design of the board) and there is no voltage or current regulation on the board. The LED will pull much more than 1A from 6volts (or 4.8V if you are using rechargeable) and will have horrible run time and possibly blow the LED.

If nothing else use the resistor chart and get a resistor for the voltage you will have as if you were direct driving it.

If you want to know more check my post on fx-sabers in the sabersound tutorial post (I am MH over there).

[Maurnick]

with the sabersound you will be better off to go with two Li-ion batteries and a 1000 ma buck puck instead of 4aa or aaa. or maybe just one Li-ion straight but I would rather have the buck puck and know its getting the correct current.

The reason being is the statement you made about the sabersound is incorrect (SF says the manufacturer changed the design of the board) and there is no voltage or current regulation on the board. The LED will pull much more than 1A from 6volts (or 4.8V if you are using rechargeable) and will have horrible run time and possibly blow the LED.

If nothing else use the resistor chart and get a resistor for the voltage you will have as if you were direct driving it.

If you want to know more check my post on fx-sabers in the sabersound tutorial post (I am MH over there).

I've actually changed my mind as to what led to get. I've decided on this (http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=16P3126) instead. Having a rating of 1500mA means I'd need a resistor. As much as I've read I'm still having trouble figuring out which resistor to use.

[Zook]

I've actually changed my mind as to what led to get. I've decided on this (http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=16P3126) instead. Having a rating of 1500mA means I'd need a resistor. As much as I've read I'm still having trouble figuring out which resistor to use.

resistor depends on your voltage. I believe that there is a resistor chart around here you can use to determine the resistor you need.

Also a more efficient way would be to use two 700 buck pucks. It will only get you 1400ma but it will be more efficient and the battery life will be better. you will not notice the difference in 1400ma adn 1500ma I dont think.

[Maurnick]

resistor depends on your voltage. I believe that there is a resistor chart around here you can use to determine the resistor you need.

Also a more efficient way would be to use two 700 buck pucks. It will only get you 1400ma but it will be more efficient and the battery life will be better. you will not notice the difference in 1400ma adn 1500ma I dont think.

Would your battery suggestion change from the 2 Li-ions due to the LED change?

Otherwise I'll go with the pucks.

On another forum someone suggested I use the 10w 2.7Ohm resistor as the 5w one would not be sufficient enough for 2 Li-ion 3.7s and this particular new LED.