About to order first saber parts

[Dendore]

Hilt style 4 with standard style switch hole

Screw on LED blade holder style 17

MHS ribbed extension

MPS Pommel style 3 v2

5/8" Gold cap

LED "TCSS style" Show blade 1" OD

4AA battery holder

Seoul P4 (Blue)

Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle

Luxeon III/V Lens Holder

3.3ohm 5w resistor

SPST Momentary switch with red button

Black machined button for Covertec clip

Covertec Clip

1-3/16" ID Black O-ring

Powder Coating Powder Coating (Super Wet Black, SH42)

8-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw

Drill & Tap Hole Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

MPS Clip

MPS Insert style 7


Am I missing anything? Anyone have any recommendations on changes? Also will I be able to assemble this all with bare hands and a soldering gun? I don't have drill or anything.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Ok, first of all, why are you ordering a gold cap? Those are used on FX conversions.

And, why are you getting a momentary switch? Will you be using a Hasbro "economy" type board, or an Ultrasound? If you're not using one of those sound boards, the you need a latching switch if you're just driving it off the battery pack with the resistor.

I see you have the drill and tap service for your blade retention screw. You will also need that for your Covertec button, as well as the screw for it, since that needs to be screwed onto your hilt.

Since you are getting the thin walled show blade, I'd suggest a 10 degree lens. You want some of the light to hit the diffuser, you're not trying to get it to all go to the top of the blade. Though people have different opinions about the lenses to use.

[$tarkiller]

Personally, I would go with the 5 degree lens, because it focuses better and although it is less of an exposure of the LED, it is a more narrow and solid beam, IMO.

[Dendore]

I was probably going to use the gold cap just as an extra for decoration purposes. Is is very possible I would be using a hasbro sound board but I am worried about how bright the LED will be if driver off that. I think it only puts out like 350mA. The brightness of the blade is more important than the sound to me. So I guess I need to figure out if I'm doing that or not as that decides which switch I use right? :confused:

Also for the covertec button would it be possible to just hot glue that on?

As for the lens, I have been fairly set on the 5 degree from what I've read comparing the two. However I was also reading that relative to the thicker walled blades. Like I said I want brightness... if you think 10 is brighter on thin walled I may give it a shot.

[Jedi-Loreen]

I was probably going to use the gold cap just as an extra for decoration purposes. Is is very possible I would be using a hasbro sound board but I am worried about how bright the LED will be if driver off that. I think it only puts out like 350mA. The brightness of the blade is more important than the sound to me. So I guess I need to figure out if I'm doing that or not as that decides which switch I use right? :confused:
Yes, or just order an extra switch so you have a latching for now and a momentary if you decide to go with a Hasbro board.


Also for the covertec button would it be possible to just hot glue that on?
NO. Especially not if you actually want to carry your saber on your Covertec clip. I wouldn't even trust JB Weld for that. I'd only ever use a screw or maybe a rivet.


As for the lens, I have been fairly set on the 5 degree from what I've read comparing the two. However I was also reading that relative to the thicker walled blades. Like I said I want brightness... if you think 10 is brighter on thin walled I may give it a shot.
Well, since I haven't actually tried a 5 degree lens, I can't really give a fair comparison. But you can order both and see for yourself with one you like best. :wink:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

[COLOR=Red]Well, since I haven't actually tried a 5 degree lens, I can't really give a fair comparison. But you can order both and see for yourself with one you like best. :wink:

The 10 degree will fit in the holder better than the 5 degree will. I usually use the 5 degrees myself, they seem to make the blade more evenly lit to my eyes.