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Tenric Starkindler
05-04-2006, 02:57 PM
Just some idle thinking here, but......

will it be possible to tap the opening of one emitter and then screw another onto it?
I can think of a few very nice combinations of the emitters coming....

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

xwingband
05-04-2006, 03:28 PM
Maybe that can be custom work. I see what you are getting at. You probably want the open ones to go under another one. I'd just be leary of that because you'd need a long blade and if you like 36" LED blades that'd be a full lighted 40"er which aren't quite as good.

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Tenric Starkindler
05-04-2006, 05:28 PM
are the 40" ones dimmer due to length?
I thought the reflector did a good job of "filling" out the blade.

You are right about the cutout ones....sure would make a 'purty' saber.

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

xwingband
05-04-2006, 05:53 PM
Yeah, they are dimmer due to length. The reflector certainly helps but that's a lot of unlit space. I definatly get what you're going for though.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
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Mor-El Kesav
06-05-2006, 05:28 PM
I have a question that I hope one of y'all can help me with. On an Obi Wan Emitter (#8) where would you recommend that I place the thumbscrew? That precious hunk of metal is too nice to not do the job right. I appreciate your assistance, thanks in advance.

"Destroy the Sith we must!"
Master Yoda

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Ambo
06-05-2006, 06:13 PM
With that i would drill and tap the neck and then use a set screw....u just have to keep an allen wernch handy to remove the blade...but that will take away the unsightly thumbscrew on the obi/luke emitters....





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Zhi-don
06-06-2006, 06:16 AM
This would depend on how often you remove the blade. The hex bolt is a good idea if you don't remove it frequently. I personally don't want to carry around a tool, so opt for the thumbscrew. At conventions, I tend to want to either put it on fast or take it off fast. On my Luke, I asked Tim to put it on the bottom of the main part of the emitter, near the end. I wanted it on the opposite side that the switch is on.

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james3
06-06-2006, 06:33 AM
Flush fit set screw, keep the wrench in the hilt with a velcro strap.

Way to nice of an emitter to use a thumbscrew.

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Zhi-don
06-06-2006, 01:46 PM
James;

Do you have any idea what would happen if that wrench got loose and started bouncing around inside a hilt? *Shudders* I spar way too much to take a chance on that happening. Yes, thumbscrews are ugly, but sometimes neccessary. Also I don't want to take my pommel off just to get a wrench to remove the blade. I want to do it fast. Turn the thumbscrew and remove the blade and I'm done. It's just a personal preference....no offense.

Zhi-don Aquintas
XO RL Sunrider Base
Treasurer/Head Instructor
Lightsaber training OCSWS

suit_man
06-06-2006, 02:52 PM
what would happen if the wrench got loose? all i can see happening is some clinking sounds in the hilt. just an observation.

i am a nerd, if you don't like it, i will cut you with my lightsaber

xwingband
06-06-2006, 03:20 PM
Use industrial strength velcro... that stuff rocks.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
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Mor-El Kesav
06-06-2006, 03:22 PM
Hey, Y'all! Thanks for the tips, I may wind up doing both. A set screw for everyday use when I don't remove the hilt and the thumbscrew for Conventions, Parties, Halloween at work, that sort of stuff. I'm anxiously waiting for my stuff to arrive!

"Destroy the Sith we must!"
Master Yoda

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Tenric Starkindler
06-06-2006, 06:14 PM
hmmm...
would it be possible to have a pin or two set into the emitter and then groove the bottom edge of the blade to sort of slip in and then rotate to lock?

Seen similar set ups on other stuff.....seems secure.??

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

Mor-El Kesav
06-06-2006, 07:22 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tenric Starkindler

hmmm...
would it be possible to have a pin or two set into the emitter and then groove the bottom edge of the blade to sort of slip in and then rotate to lock?

Seen similar set ups on other stuff.....seems secure.??

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Sort of like a Luer Lock syringe and needle set up? In theory that should work just fine, especially if you put a vertical grove to lock the pins in place so that they don't rotate during dueling.

"Destroy the Sith we must!"
Master Yoda

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Darth_Dadderall
07-01-2006, 08:46 PM
I'm working on that very thing right now, actually. I've cut the grooves in my blade, got the set screws to use as pins, all I need now is a spring (which I've located at McMaster-Carr) and the MHS pieces once the store opens back up. I'll keep you guys posted.


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Zhi-don
07-07-2006, 07:07 AM
I used my dremel with a round cutting tool to dish out a small hole in the blade. Not enough to go all the way through, but enough for the thumbscrew to go into it. I've had too many blades come flying out of the hilt [Whoosh...."Watch out! Heads up! BAM!] to have that happen anymore. Set screws and machine screws are nice, but I will still have to go with thumbscrews. I want to be able to quickly remove my blade and that means not searching for where I put that silly allen wrench.

Zhi-don Aquintas
XO RL Sunrider Base
Treasurer/Head Instructor
Lightsaber training OCSWS

LAN-ED-TUL
07-11-2006, 02:32 AM
i dont think the allen wrench inside the hilt is a good idea at all. if it contacted anything on the main board, you cross short it and fried the whole darn thing. bad idea.

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The Brotherhood Of The Sith

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

james3
07-11-2006, 07:16 AM
I think we have already agreed to disagree on this point. I have done a few MHS hilts this way and the wrench has never come loose and if it did there is nothing for it to hit to create a short. With a simple setup I wrap my battery packs and the LED is on the side of the sink that is not in the hilt so there is no way to create a short. With a sound board (have done) or corbin board (haven't yet) I wrap the boards just like the batt packs and in one case I put a wood plug with a hole just big enough to run the wiring between the battery and wrench area and the components. After doing a few sabers it became clear to me that having loose stuff rattling around in the hilt bothered me more then any rattles from smacking EL blades together, I know that not everyone is happy with that setup and I am cool with that. The best thing about this site is we can all shoot our ideas around, some work some don't and we all have fun together.

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Do-Clo
07-11-2006, 09:08 AM
Not a bad idea James keeping the allen wrench in the hilt and if it is secured next to the battery pack in foam it will not move, but what if you need the allen wrench to remove the pommel.[:(]

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LAN-ED-TUL
07-11-2006, 03:27 PM
well on all mine i dont wrap the boards, they have airflow around them , i make a cartridge or carrier to place it in. usually out of a pvc couple piece grooved on each side so board slides in like on rails. then a lil hotglue tacks and it stays put. i then can attach the motion and shock sensors right to ends of the pvc part. and doing that, it gets airflow around board, just in case it might heat up a bit. they have them like that in the toys so i make a setup similar to do the same thing. never had any probs with it yet.

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Lan-Ed-Tul
The Brotherhood Of The Sith

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Zhi-don
07-14-2006, 06:14 AM
Question:

This sounds like a good idea, but what do you use to cut the groove? A dremmel wouldn't work for that.

Zhi-don Aquintas
XO RL Sunrider Base
Treasurer/Head Instructor
Lightsaber training OCSWS

james3
07-14-2006, 06:28 AM
I have cut grooves in PVC with a dremel with no problems. The trick is to use the lower speeds. I have also used the good old hacksaw method for pieces mounted in a vice, works fine everytime.

I wanted VERY straight grooves down a 16" PVC tube on one project that I did and I set a table saw with the blade depth, set her up and got er done. Took about 2 hours to laser mark my groove points and 2 minutes to cut[;)]

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Zhi-don
07-14-2006, 10:26 AM
Sounds like a lot of work. I guess I could cut the PVC tube in half cut the grooves on the opposite sides and then glue it back together. That might be a bit faster.

Zhi-don Aquintas
XO RL Sunrider Base
Treasurer/Head Instructor
Lightsaber training OCSWS