Hello friends! Potentially painless Noob question...

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Firstly let me say WOW. This site and the friendly forum go-ers have me in awe.

Now that I am done drooling, let me say I have read the following:

LDM's "n00b! So you want to build a MHS saber huh? (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=108682&posted=1#post108682)"

The Saber Building Dictionary (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6524)

and glanced at more than a few of the links Here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=553)

With all of that behind me, and a goal to construct my own Lightsaber (in true Jedi fashion) I have used the MHS builder to create an idea. I have also taken that one step further and compiled what I believe to be all the parts I will need.

My one questions is this. How do I know if I have everything I need before spending a few hundred dollars? This is where i rely on the charity of you experts ;)

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x116/TaiDashan/SaberBuilder_render-1.png

Here is what I have so far:

1 Hilt style 4 with guarded style switch hole
1 MHS choke style 3
1 Screw on LED blade holder style 11
1 MPS Pommel style 3 v2
1 LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
1 Luxeon 3w driver V2 (Momentary)
1 SPST Momentary Guarded switch with blue button
1 MHS speaker and battery holder
1 8-32 x 1/8" Set screw
1 Build Your Own Luxeon III Electronics Kit
2 2 Wire quick connector
1 MPS Clip or 1 O-ring
1 MPS Insert style 7 (out of stock on style 1 and 6)
1 Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) service for the Blade Holder (is this needed?)
1 Foot of 1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing
6 1-3/16" ID Black O-ring
1 UltraSound 2.5 Sound Board

Here are my questions:

1. First and foremost do I have everything i need to make a working Saber? Lights sounds etc? I feel like i'm missing screws or have too many of something. (call that my ignorance)

2. I have no knowledge of electronics/soldering (google should teach me well) and this leads to a little ignorance. Do I need a resistor for the sound board? since one comes with the Luxeon III Kit for the LED? Do I have everything I need barring the Solder and Iron?

That should be it, Thank you if you are still reading. I just do not want to spend 300+ dollars just to have a bunch of parts and am a little anxious. (The wife has barely assented to this hobby of mine as it is :D)

[$tarkiller]

As far as I see, You have everythig needed. Don't be afraid to do some more reading, as I see you have an Ultrasound on your list, and if not familiar with it, it could be wired incorrectly. Welcome, by the way. Except you do no need a driver for your LED, as the Ultrasound will do that for you. Yes the Drill and tap service is needed, either by you or tim, as this is the hole the your blade retention screw will go in. The retention screw is the screw that holds the blade in place when dueling, or spinning.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Sweet! Thank you so much for such a prompt reply!

I am thinking of ordering the Sound Board later (when i have a bit more cash) I think i read somewhere that a different type of screw might be better for the blade holder? Also, I am good on the second resistor right?

Oh and until i get the sound board i would need the driver right?

[$tarkiller]

For your Blade retention screw, I would go with this guy http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-516-thumb-screw--P73.aspx I find it works better, because you dont have to carry around an allen wrench all day, and I dont see any resistor on your list, and if you're not going with sound right now, you might want to try a 700mA BuckPuck from the store. It is a driver.

[Jedi-Loreen]

What second resistor are you referring to? You do not need to use any resistor if you will be using the Corbin driver.

[$tarkiller]

What second resistor are you referring to? You do not need to use any resistor if you will be using the Corbin driver.

I didnt see that he had a corbin driver listed...

[Shadar Al'Niende]

without this driver here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-3w-driver-V2-P230.aspx) i wont have the retract and extend function though correct? Do I understand correctly that I do not need a resistor if using this driver or the Sound Board as they both handle that?

oh and the electronic kit (luxeon III) comes with a resistor in it if i am not mistaken, just did not know if one was needed for the driver/Sound board

[Jedi-Loreen]

I know the electronics kit has a resistor in it. I thought you might have thought that you needed a resistor for the switch, which you would if you were getting the illuminated Anti Vandal switch, but you don't need one with the Guarded switch.

What the resistor in the electronics kit does is bleed off the excess voltage from the battery pack that the LED doesn't need, which could actually burn it out if you didn't use a resistor using the "direct drive" method of the kit. So if you use some kind of driver or sound board (Buck puck, Lux 3 driver, FX sound board, UltraSound), you don't need a resistor, because the board/driver will handle that excess voltage itself.

And true, you won't have the extend and retract "effect" without the Lux 3 driver. And that only works with one of the "Corbin" style blades, which I see you are ordering.

[$tarkiller]

well put, j-lo, well put.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Ahhh!

*smacks head*

Now I get it... Thanks guys!! now all that's left is ordering!

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Quick addition, I realized after some more reading...That i had in my cart a guarded momentary switch and read somewhere that only the hasbro card is a good idea to use this kind of switch with.

I started to look into other switches and realized that the guarded switches as above do not fit a standard hole and I would have to modify the hilt. Not bad, but...

So whats the ruling? Momentary? Latching? I will need latching for a corbin driver right? Suggest just one of these (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Push-onpush-off-switch-with-black-button--P40.aspx) to start? If so, does the ribbed section in the photo come up off the hilt?

*edit, just realized the electronics kit comes with a switch so buying one won't be needed, can I still buy a bezel nut for it?*

[Invisas1979]

Wecome.

In regards to the US 2.5 you will need to have a momentary switch as I believe they don't work with Latching switches.

As you said the starter kit you have on your list will have a basic latching on it, add a metal bezel and you're good to go.

Have you ordered yet? As I recall the pommels you want are out of stock so if you have ordered they may be holding off sending while that part comes back into stock, if that is the case then contact Tim and remove the unwanted items. You can check by looking at your account in the Shop.

[mihunai]

Pretty much all momentary switches work the same, so both the guarded and the standard TCSS switch will work.

Wether you need a momentary or latching switch depends on the board.
Just a quick list to save you some trouble, as far as boards go:
Corbin Driver: Latching
Economy Hasbro: Momentary
Force FX(MR or Hasbro): Latching
SaberSound: Momentary
Ultrasound:Momentary
CF:Can use both for activation, Momentary for secondary actions.

However, please remember to read first, ask later (im still being reminded often as well :) )

*The bezel (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switch-Bezel-Nut-P270.aspx) was indeed intended for the standard TCSS switch, but not for the Guarded or illuminated switch.

mTm

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Have you ordered yet? As I recall the pommels you want are out of stock

Nope, thank goodness :D aslo, the pommel is in stock. Hopefully it stays that way until pay-day :roll:


However, please remember to read first, ask later

Hey thanks for the reminder! :D I figured the word switch might be too common for the search engine and sifting brought up no specific results. The words momentary and latching didn't pull anything up either *sigh* But I will look more next time *wink* Is there something you searched for to get the above info or just sifting through posts?

[$tarkiller]

Yep, I second that statement... Try to read a little first. Most if not all of your questions could have been answered with a little reading.

[Jedi-Loreen]

I must correct mihunai.

The Corbin Lux 3 Driver comes in both latching and momentary versions.

You can also select main hilt bodies with Standard or Latching switch holes.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

In response to you J-Lo


This guarded switch style is for the switches with nut on the inside of the hilt.

If I am planning on using a bezel nut and the plastic nut as a spacer on the inside of the hilt...is this what the above quote from this product (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-style-4-with-guarded-style-switch-hole-P447.aspx) is referring to or do I need to order a standard since i believe the switch that comes with the kit is a standard?

[Jedi-Loreen]

No.

The Bezel nut is for the Standard Switch. Normally, the nut that comes with it goes on the outside of the hilt, you will be using it on the the switch stem as a spacer inside the hilt, since the switch goes through the hole from the inside.

With the Guarded Switch, it goes into the hole from the outside of the hilt, so the nut goes on the inside to hold it on.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Man...i am feeling really dense right now.. forgive me.

Just to clarify, the switch that comes with the electronics kit can be used with the standard style hilt only since it is not a guarded type? (aka cannot go into the hilt from the outside like one of these (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Latching-Guarded-switch-with-blue-button-P259.aspx))

If using the standard style hilt the nut goes over the stem as a spacer, the switch goes down the tube and up through the switch hole securing it with a bezel nut on the top, or just the plastic if not using a bezel. If using the Guarded style hilt you need a guarded style switch right? That sounds too easy...am I missing something?

[Jedi-Loreen]

Correct.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

*whew* thanks... felt really dumb there for a moment :(

thanks for all the help guys! Now to wait for payday and place my order, here is to crossing your fingers that things don't go outta stock :D