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View Full Version : Joe Jedi Wiring Help Needed (big time)



ThreeQuadFive
08-31-2009, 06:56 AM
Hello all.

My joe jedi board arrived this morning and..I'm not sure what the previous owner was doing.

I can't figure out based on existing diagrams floating around what to do here.

Specifically...

What is the power (+ and -) connection here?
Which is the speaker connection?
Which is the power switch connector?

I'm nominally going to just use this as a sound board and not use it for driving a LED at all (maybe an accent down the road) but for now just use it in tandum with a resitor driven setup and if need be down the road the more advanced wiring diagram using a DPDT and all.

Here are the pics:

Underside:
http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp123/ThreeQuadFive/LeChuck/IMG_0188.jpg

Clash:
http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp123/ThreeQuadFive/LeChuck/IMG_0187.jpg

Color selector side?
http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp123/ThreeQuadFive/LeChuck/IMG_0186.jpg

ThreeQuadFive
08-31-2009, 07:22 AM
Ok, I believe I've figured it out based on another thread.

VCC = power + (to battery + and speaker +)
ground = power -
spk = speaker -

I'll have to use the DPDT to switch it and the LED on.

xl97
08-31-2009, 07:47 AM
looks like he used 'speaker' wire for the questions you had on speaker/+/-


looks like the switch was taken off..however you can use th eunderside of the board:

http://dmstudios.net/misc/616_switch.jpg


I would also suggest you check out this diagram:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wiringbuilder/wiring.aspx

under the misc. diagrams tab.. (theres only two currently)

but this will deal with the 616 board set-up with DPDT switch and using a buck puck (much better solution)..also using the diode(s) so you do NOT loose the power down sound..

ThreeQuadFive
08-31-2009, 08:41 AM
Are we sure this handles 4aaa?
I wired switch leads to a latching switch (push on/off) and not getting anything from the board.
Could be dead..was sold as is but claimed to be working. Wondering if I'm doing something wrong or what.

xl97
08-31-2009, 09:04 AM
I believe it does.. not more than 6V...

you can always try a smaller pack to be safe..

could be he sold you a bad board too..

ThreeQuadFive
08-31-2009, 10:04 AM
I think its a dud.
I double checked my wiring (did reverse the + - on the batt somehow..was using two 9v connectors so that may be lol), but still..

switched speakers
switched bat packs
switched switches

no dice.

Invisas1979
09-02-2009, 10:11 AM
looks like he used 'speaker' wire for the questions you had on speaker/+/-


looks like the switch was taken off..however you can use th eunderside of the board:

http://dmstudios.net/misc/616_switch.jpg


I would also suggest you check out this diagram:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wiringbuilder/wiring.aspx

under the misc. diagrams tab.. (theres only two currently)

but this will deal with the 616 board set-up with DPDT switch and using a buck puck (much better solution)..also using the diode(s) so you do NOT loose the power down sound..

Hey Xl on the mock up of the board you have done, on the reverse you have two little red lines. Are this showing the two pins you need to attach the LED to on the reverse of the original switch?

xl97
09-02-2009, 10:25 AM
huh?


I believe those are the two solder pads to use or your main switch..

the current slider switch on the board is ONLY for changing between JEDI/SITH sounds (and changing the color of the led....but your not using that tri-color led...nor using the board to drive an LED)

Zook
09-02-2009, 10:37 AM
I think its a dud.
I double checked my wiring (did reverse the + - on the batt somehow..was using two 9v connectors so that may be lol), but still..

switched speakers
switched bat packs
switched switches

no dice.

If you reversed the + and - on the battery then you fried the board. It only takes a momentary hook up of it backward to fry it. DC does not like to be hooked up backwards.

IMO if thats the case (and i may be reading your post wrong and you didnt actually hook it to the battery backwards but just wired it wrong and noticed before you hooked the battery up) then you should not ask for a refund. If you indeed fried the board take it as a learning experience and move on. If you didnt then by all means get your money back for a DOA board.

Kal El Rah
09-02-2009, 01:12 PM
zook per the shoutbox conversation yesterday, it was determined that the board was doa and is being returned to the sender for a refund.

Zook
09-02-2009, 09:13 PM
zook per the shoutbox conversation yesterday, it was determined that the board was doa and is being returned to the sender for a refund.

ok sounds good then...just when I saw he had the + and - hooked up backward it had me thinking he put power to it that way which would have blown up the card which is his problem not the sellers.

Its just one of the things that bugs me. People make mistakes and then blame others for it and try to get refunds. I guess it bothers me so much because someone did it to me with a high end Holley 4 brl carburetor several years back. He tightened the bolts down too tight and cracked the mounting ear and warped the plate. Said it was like that when he got it even though I know better (been working on cars a lot longer than he) and he was there while my car was running with the carb just before taking it off. Sorry for the non saber rant lol.

anyway since he didn't mess it up as he said then he is entitled to a refund for sure.

edited for spelling...I was tired but I didn't think that tired (misspelling holley...I should be ashamed my car buddies would have a good laugh about that).

Kal El Rah
09-02-2009, 11:00 PM
I guess it bothers me so much because someone did it to me with a high end Holly 4 brl carburetor several years back. He tightened the bolts down too tight and cracked the mounting ear and warped the plate. Said it was like that when he got it even though I know better (been working on cars a lot longer than he) and he was there while my car was running with the carb just before taking it off.

A buddy of mine did it to 2 carbs I loaned him, cost him some good money to replace the throttle plates.

ThreeQuadFive
09-03-2009, 06:07 AM
Howdy, yeah never hooked it up with power in reverse.
Just noticed prior to powering it on that I had it reversed.

In the event that things go sour and I can't get a refund on a dud card, are there ways of repairing these?

Like replacing resistors and capacitors?

Zook
09-03-2009, 08:09 AM
Howdy, yeah never hooked it up with power in reverse.
Just noticed prior to powering it on that I had it reversed.

In the event that things go sour and I can't get a refund on a dud card, are there ways of repairing these?

Like replacing resistors and capacitors?

well I replaced the transistor on mine but that was simply to fix the LED output. The sound worked...just no LED. Replaced the transistor and fixed the LED output (after tracing voltage from another board to see whats supposed to be where).

If yours is completely dead it might be possible to repair it but probably not since most of the stuff is surface mount and hard to find.

Matt Thorn
09-06-2009, 05:59 PM
I can tell you from experience that the Joe Jedi will not take 4aaa batteries. You'll fry the sound for sure. (I did it, twice.) The Joe Jedi board is way too easy to kill, which makes me wonder why it is so popular.

Zook
09-06-2009, 06:49 PM
I can tell you from experience that the Joe Jedi will not take 4aaa batteries. You'll fry the sound for sure. (I did it, twice.) The Joe Jedi board is way too easy to kill, which makes me wonder why it is so popular.

cheap...and at the time I got mine it was the only sound board I could find. I later bought a whole joe jedi kit for less than I would pay for a MR board but I only bought that to convert my Anakin AOTC hilt using the entire JJ piece like others have.

cardcollector
09-06-2009, 07:06 PM
Where Cheap?!?!?!:confused:

I always see them sell for around $80 on ebay.

xl97
09-06-2009, 07:09 PM
quick question..

I need to run an 'led' (small illuminated switch) of the 616..so it only comes on when the saber is on.. of course I wanted it on when either jedi or sith sound is on.. so Ineed to use the leads to the LED form the 616...

my question is:

do I need the Red/Green/Blue wires? (I'd solder them all together to form one lead to the leg on the switch)..

or do I need:

Red/Green/Blue/Brown?

I dont recall what the brown wire was for...

Im assuking I can use the bottom of the board as well.. in the order?

(Red/Green/Blue/Brown)

xl97
09-06-2009, 07:10 PM
Where Cheap?!?!?!:confused:

I always see them sell for around $80 on ebay.


previously... you could get the whole KIT.. (all parts) at RadioShack for around $35...

Matt Thorn
09-06-2009, 08:06 PM
Well, since it's been out of production for some two years now, it's not surprising the price has gone up. And now that we have economical alternatives to Force FX boards of any kind, the Joe Jedi is looking less and less appealing as a generic soundboard.

Invisas1979
09-08-2009, 01:36 AM
quick question..

I need to run an 'led' (small illuminated switch) of the 616..so it only comes on when the saber is on.. of course I wanted it on when either jedi or sith sound is on.. so Ineed to use the leads to the LED form the 616...

my question is:

do I need the Red/Green/Blue wires? (I'd solder them all together to form one lead to the leg on the switch)..

or do I need:

Red/Green/Blue/Brown?

I dont recall what the brown wire was for...

Im assuking I can use the bottom of the board as well.. in the order?

(Red/Green/Blue/Brown)

So far as my understanding goes the red/blue/green is the + and the brown is the -

As for where to attach the led wire for the illuminated switch, I'm still trying to puzzel that out myself.

Matt Thorn
09-08-2009, 03:04 AM
So far as my understanding goes the red/blue/green is the + and the brown is the -

As for where to attach the led wire for the illuminated switch, I'm still trying to puzzel that out myself.
You're right, the brown one is negative. Illuminated switches ordinarily have eight prongs. Two sides have three each, and two sides have one each. Those solitary prongs are the wires for the illuminated switch's LED. You can wire it parallel to the main LED, but make sure you use the right resistor, unless the datasheet for the switch specifically states that it has an internal resistor. (Most don't.) Without the right resistor, you will fry the LED, particularly if it's red. Tim's new WiringBuilder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wiringbuilder/wiring.aspx) is great for finding the right resistor. Just click the "Resistor Chart" tab, choose the right illuminated switch from the menu, choose your battery set-up, and like magic you get not just the resistor info but an easy-to-understand wiring diagram to boot! :D

xl97
09-08-2009, 04:52 AM
Im not trying to run it directly off the battery pack.. as stated I will using the LED output leads/wires from the 616 board... wiring directly to the battery pack means the switch is on all the time.. (unless a kill key is used)..

I will have to wire/solder all 3 wires together and have them go to the switches LED+..so I can have it work no matter what sound font is chosen..

I just wanted confirmation that the brown was in fact negative.

I guess to make sure I have the correct resistor on it.. anyone know the output of the 616 board? so I can calculate the resistor I need?

Thanks

Matt Thorn
09-08-2009, 05:07 AM
I guess to make sure I have the correct resistor on it.. anyone know the output of the 616 board? so I can calculate the resistor I need?
Just go by the voltage of your battery pack and you should be fine.

xl97
09-08-2009, 07:27 AM
yeah? no voltage drop form going through the board?

sounds good to me I guess...LOL

I have a couple more of these TINY, latching, illuminated DPDT switches anyways.. ;)

Invisas1979
09-08-2009, 11:37 AM
Im not trying to run it directly off the battery pack.. as stated I will using the LED output leads/wires from the 616 board... wiring directly to the battery pack means the switch is on all the time.. (unless a kill key is used)..

I will have to wire/solder all 3 wires together and have them go to the switches LED+..so I can have it work no matter what sound font is chosen..

I just wanted confirmation that the brown was in fact negative.

I guess to make sure I have the correct resistor on it.. anyone know the output of the 616 board? so I can calculate the resistor I need?

Thanks

Like Matt said I wouldn't try for more that 4.5volts or risk frying the board. I agree with wiring the led to the led output on the board, then you wont have the issue of the led being on all the time.

xl97
09-08-2009, 11:50 AM
Like Matt said I wouldn't try for more that 4.5volts or risk frying the board. I agree with wiring the led to the led output on the board, then you wont have the issue of the led being on all the time.


huh? Where did Matt say anything about not using more than 4.5 volts?

Im not even sure what your talking about? LOL

my question is/was what wires do I need from the 616 board to power the LED in my illuminated switch?

RGB or RGB + brown... (which he confirmed brown is just the ground)

I already have a resistor on the led in my switch.. but since it is NOT going straight from the battery pack..but instead of output THROUGH/FROM the 616 board.. I asked what the output was..since I was thinking there could be some voltage drop going through the board and finally to the output..