vadeblade
05-01-2006, 02:53 PM
The following has some lathe terms. Please go to
http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf to understand what I am talking about.
HI All,
This is in response to StrangeWings-
StrangeWings - "Any chance you would consider doing a write up on how you did it?" concerning making a hilt on a lathe.
It is often stated that trying to describe Zen is like the left hand trying to grasp itself. Or as one great Zen master said, "Do... or do not, there is no try." But I think I have a close enough description. Zen is about being mindful of the moment. About having one's thoughts in the "Here and Now." The Jedi know Zen.
So how does this relate to what Strangewing ask? Well, Here is how I make a hilt.
Tools needed:
Lathe
Drill press
Drill bits
Dial calliper
Dial indicator
Divider Calipers.
Center Punch
Hacksaw, tap, clamps, dremel, sandpaper, files.
Optional - Mill
Materials Used:
1.5" OD x 1/8 thick wall aluminum tube
1.75" Solid aluminum round bar
screws.
Making the hilt.
First, when I start a project there is nothing more in my head than the vaguest of ideas what the final piece will look like...
I cut a length of tube between 10-11 inches. The aluminum tube is placed on the lathe chuck. Using a dial indicator positioned on the tailstock, I center the tube to within .003" off center. I secure a steady rest about 1/2" left of the tube center and tighten it around the tube. I check again that it is centered. I take the dial indicator off.
I put on my safety glasses and double check that I am not wearing a tie. I spin up the tube and Face the end to remove the rough cut the hacksaw made. I take my calliper divider and make score marks at 1/4" intervals from the end up to the steady rest.
And this is where Zen really comes in. I have no plans. I take the carbide tipped tool bit and just start shaving off metal from the tube as inspiration hits me at that moment. I make grooves and cuts and valleys where I "feel" they belong. The score marks are used only for general reference. I generally work from tailstock to headstock - Right to Left. If I find my miind wondering off to something else (bills, work, etc.) or if inspiration stops coming, I stop the lathe, secure the piece and walk away. Trying to finish the hilt when not in a Zen state will only lead to frustration - and accidents. I'll come back to it later.
Once the tool bit gets to the steady rest, I stop the lathe and inspect all the cuts and grooves I made. If everything looks good I flip the tube over and repeat the steps above.
When the hilt body has all the designes I want on it, I take off the steady rest and secure the free end of the tube with a live center on the tailstock. I spin up the lathe to medium high rpm and sand the piece to debur it. I slowly change from course to fine wet/dry sandpaper finishing off with 1000 grit. While the tube is mounted on the lathe, I stop the motor and use a sharpie marker, the tip of the tool bit, and the tool carriage to help me mark the screw holes along the lenght of the hilt tube. This will ensure all the holes line up with each other. Remove the tube from the lathe and use the Center Punch to mark the drill holes. After the tube is polished and marked, I take Exact measurements of the Inside Diameter using my Dial Callipers.
Now I take my 1.75" solid alumim bar and hack off two 2-4" inch pieces. I mount one of the pieces on the chuck and center it with the dial indicator. This is when I decide if the piece is an emitter or a pommel. Lets make a pommel.
Here is a picture:
http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/images/making4pummels.JPG
Double check my safety glasses are secure. Double check that I am still not wearing a tie... Check and check...
Start the lathe and face the end. I score a circle on the face slightly larger than the inside dia. of the tube. I score a line 1/2" from the right end. From the end of the piece to the score line I reduce the diameter of the it down to the circle I made on the face. I use this tool bit:
http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/temp/index1669RA.jpg
Working Right to left. Then using my Dial Calliper, I shave off a little metal at a time till I have the exact size I need to fit into the tube.
I debur the edges with my file and flip the piece over and tighten the chuck around the newly reduced diameter. This time centering the piece is very fast since the chuck is gripping a section a just machined. Once centered I get into Zen state again and decide what designs I put when I face the piece and if the edges will have bevels, or maybe steps, maybe even rounded. Then I start shaving matal off the side to make more grooves and valleys. I finish with sand paper again.
The emitter is made in the same manner as the pommel except for one additional process. I install a drill chuck on the tailstock and put in a 1/2" drill bit with a pilot point to create a hole in the center. Once I have bored all the way through the emitter, I change the bit out to a 3/4" drill bit. After that is done I can leave it for EL or use a boring bar to increase the hole diameter to 1 inch.
Now, I join the three pieces together and clamp them tight. Take the nearly complete lightsaber hilt to the drill press and drill out the screw holes using the marks I made on the tube. To make it easy on myself, I usually drill one hole on each end and tap both holes. I then put in set screws. That way, when I unclamp the hilt and rotate it to the next screw hole mark, all three pieces rotate as one unit. Clamp it tight again and drill holes. Don't bother tapping the rest of the holes yet. Unclamp, rotate, clamp and drill holes - lather, rinse, repeat - until all the holes are drilled out. Now tap the rest of the holes and put in the screws and unclamp.
There, the Hilt is done.
I hope this was not too boring. Before you start asking for pictures and videos, I sold my Lathe. so no pictures... sigh...
Peace,
-V
Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade."
http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf to understand what I am talking about.
HI All,
This is in response to StrangeWings-
StrangeWings - "Any chance you would consider doing a write up on how you did it?" concerning making a hilt on a lathe.
It is often stated that trying to describe Zen is like the left hand trying to grasp itself. Or as one great Zen master said, "Do... or do not, there is no try." But I think I have a close enough description. Zen is about being mindful of the moment. About having one's thoughts in the "Here and Now." The Jedi know Zen.
So how does this relate to what Strangewing ask? Well, Here is how I make a hilt.
Tools needed:
Lathe
Drill press
Drill bits
Dial calliper
Dial indicator
Divider Calipers.
Center Punch
Hacksaw, tap, clamps, dremel, sandpaper, files.
Optional - Mill
Materials Used:
1.5" OD x 1/8 thick wall aluminum tube
1.75" Solid aluminum round bar
screws.
Making the hilt.
First, when I start a project there is nothing more in my head than the vaguest of ideas what the final piece will look like...
I cut a length of tube between 10-11 inches. The aluminum tube is placed on the lathe chuck. Using a dial indicator positioned on the tailstock, I center the tube to within .003" off center. I secure a steady rest about 1/2" left of the tube center and tighten it around the tube. I check again that it is centered. I take the dial indicator off.
I put on my safety glasses and double check that I am not wearing a tie. I spin up the tube and Face the end to remove the rough cut the hacksaw made. I take my calliper divider and make score marks at 1/4" intervals from the end up to the steady rest.
And this is where Zen really comes in. I have no plans. I take the carbide tipped tool bit and just start shaving off metal from the tube as inspiration hits me at that moment. I make grooves and cuts and valleys where I "feel" they belong. The score marks are used only for general reference. I generally work from tailstock to headstock - Right to Left. If I find my miind wondering off to something else (bills, work, etc.) or if inspiration stops coming, I stop the lathe, secure the piece and walk away. Trying to finish the hilt when not in a Zen state will only lead to frustration - and accidents. I'll come back to it later.
Once the tool bit gets to the steady rest, I stop the lathe and inspect all the cuts and grooves I made. If everything looks good I flip the tube over and repeat the steps above.
When the hilt body has all the designes I want on it, I take off the steady rest and secure the free end of the tube with a live center on the tailstock. I spin up the lathe to medium high rpm and sand the piece to debur it. I slowly change from course to fine wet/dry sandpaper finishing off with 1000 grit. While the tube is mounted on the lathe, I stop the motor and use a sharpie marker, the tip of the tool bit, and the tool carriage to help me mark the screw holes along the lenght of the hilt tube. This will ensure all the holes line up with each other. Remove the tube from the lathe and use the Center Punch to mark the drill holes. After the tube is polished and marked, I take Exact measurements of the Inside Diameter using my Dial Callipers.
Now I take my 1.75" solid alumim bar and hack off two 2-4" inch pieces. I mount one of the pieces on the chuck and center it with the dial indicator. This is when I decide if the piece is an emitter or a pommel. Lets make a pommel.
Here is a picture:
http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/images/making4pummels.JPG
Double check my safety glasses are secure. Double check that I am still not wearing a tie... Check and check...
Start the lathe and face the end. I score a circle on the face slightly larger than the inside dia. of the tube. I score a line 1/2" from the right end. From the end of the piece to the score line I reduce the diameter of the it down to the circle I made on the face. I use this tool bit:
http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/temp/index1669RA.jpg
Working Right to left. Then using my Dial Calliper, I shave off a little metal at a time till I have the exact size I need to fit into the tube.
I debur the edges with my file and flip the piece over and tighten the chuck around the newly reduced diameter. This time centering the piece is very fast since the chuck is gripping a section a just machined. Once centered I get into Zen state again and decide what designs I put when I face the piece and if the edges will have bevels, or maybe steps, maybe even rounded. Then I start shaving matal off the side to make more grooves and valleys. I finish with sand paper again.
The emitter is made in the same manner as the pommel except for one additional process. I install a drill chuck on the tailstock and put in a 1/2" drill bit with a pilot point to create a hole in the center. Once I have bored all the way through the emitter, I change the bit out to a 3/4" drill bit. After that is done I can leave it for EL or use a boring bar to increase the hole diameter to 1 inch.
Now, I join the three pieces together and clamp them tight. Take the nearly complete lightsaber hilt to the drill press and drill out the screw holes using the marks I made on the tube. To make it easy on myself, I usually drill one hole on each end and tap both holes. I then put in set screws. That way, when I unclamp the hilt and rotate it to the next screw hole mark, all three pieces rotate as one unit. Clamp it tight again and drill holes. Don't bother tapping the rest of the holes yet. Unclamp, rotate, clamp and drill holes - lather, rinse, repeat - until all the holes are drilled out. Now tap the rest of the holes and put in the screws and unclamp.
There, the Hilt is done.
I hope this was not too boring. Before you start asking for pictures and videos, I sold my Lathe. so no pictures... sigh...
Peace,
-V
Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade."