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View Full Version : Basic Buck Puck Variant LED Wiring with a Latching Illuminated Switch



Iria
08-11-2009, 07:26 PM
Okay, here is what I hope is a correct diagram of how to wire up a simple LED saber with a illuminated switch. If it's correct I can make a few more pictures with different options, like a resistor, etc. It should make it so that when you push the button, the saber, and the button light up, and to turn them off you push it again. Am I correct?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/-Iria-/CompleteCircuit.jpg?t=1250042684

cannibal869
08-11-2009, 09:35 PM
Looks ok, although you might want to also consider having the LED terminal negative from the latching switch LED go back to the battery pack negative instead of to the buckpuck negative.

mihunai
08-12-2009, 12:52 PM
Id just run the Switch LED straight from the battery pack in parallel with the buckpuck. You wont get much of a result if you did it for the flickering effect. that, and the switch LED would tak part of the current going to the LuxIII making it less bright, which is not so good...

mTm

Iria
08-12-2009, 05:22 PM
Like this then? I'm not going for a flickering efect or anything, just a simple set up, as I've never done this before.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/-Iria-/Misc/circuit2.jpg?t=1250122690

dgdve
08-12-2009, 07:23 PM
thats correct, Looking good girl :)

Thaxos
08-13-2009, 09:18 AM
Looks good so far, get more progress pictures up! :D

FenderBender
08-13-2009, 09:54 AM
Your first diagram would work fine. no need to complicate things. The switch LED would only take about 20-30 ma of current so I wouldn't worry about it affecting the brightness of your main led. Most of the Anti-vandal switches are voltage hungry, not current hungry.

Strydur
08-13-2009, 10:17 AM
This may work but why are we tying into the buckpuck output at all?

Just connect NO1 to LED + terminal and call it good eh?

Or am I overlooking something?

Iria
08-13-2009, 05:28 PM
I am so confused. I wasn't going for any special effects, so I don't know what is up about the "flickering effect". I just want a simple design. And now the buttons have changed, so do I need to throw a resistor in there, on top of the buck puck?

dgdve
08-13-2009, 05:49 PM
ok if you mean do you need a resistor between the puck and the led? the answer is NO... if your using accent led's then the accent led's will need them YES.. which one(resistor) depends on the accent led. i hope this helps if it doesnt then congratulations im confused now 2 :P
~dave

Iria
08-13-2009, 05:55 PM
No no, I mean in between the button and anything else. Tim said that the switches have changed and that they don't have an internal resistor any more. I really don't wont to blow out the led in the switch.

Just to make life more complicated, how small of a main body piece could I fit this into? I don't intend to add any boards or drivers to it later, I'm actually just designing this one as a shoto blade, her sister will be the bigger of the two, with room with a good sound board once I am more experienced. Ideally I would like to get all of this into a 5" or 6" blade extension piece (and obviously get the illuminated switch hole service).

Strydur
08-13-2009, 05:57 PM
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/circuit2.jpg

Green rectangle is a 150ohm 1/4 watt resistor

dgdve
08-13-2009, 06:03 PM
ok then i think im not the one to ask as i havent used the new switch(not sure anyone has, it was just released today) BUT i promise you that your question will be answered very soon.. give the mastersmiths a few days and it'll come up in a major thread... i see this question comming up alot very soon :) and even ill be watching for it :P
if i hear it throught the grapevine ill send you the link
~dave


*edit* wow tim way to draw and type it out while im typing my response... now thats force control,,,lol

Iria
08-13-2009, 06:03 PM
Gosh, Tim, that is a messy MSPaint job! ;)

Thank you though, you've been super helpful! How long untill some one pops up and argues a diffrent wireing set up?

I'll add that resistor to my wish list (so I can keep track of what I am getting).

Do you think all of this can fit inside a 5" or 6" body?

Strydur
08-13-2009, 06:05 PM
Easily

Well..maybe not that easily if all you plan to use is one pommel, 5" hilt section, and a blade holder.

dgdve
08-13-2009, 06:09 PM
id sat definatly 6 but it depends on how far exposed your blade holder is extended... figure your batter pack is about 3.5".. yoou can use the switch body to kinda hold it from jumping upwards while you swing wildly in glee the blade holder is also about 3.5" so if its exposed about say 1.5"..you got a niftly 1" free space to fit the puck.. so you'll be fine if you go about 6-7 id say

Iria
08-13-2009, 06:44 PM
I was planning on going for a main body of 5-6" and pomel style 4 and blade holder 13. Which would give me a 7.5" over all hilt.

Sairon
08-13-2009, 07:32 PM
Even though it won't ad internal space a choke is always good...if you want it.

dgdve
08-13-2009, 08:22 PM
i just looked that up.. that will be a very clean looking saber.. you draw it out yet? grips and switch placement.. choose you blade(length/type.. btw its much cheaper to make your own blade and tim sells all the parts)... although all that may actually need a new thread :P so instead i say good luck i cant wait to see your next thread ;)
~dave

Iria
08-13-2009, 10:42 PM
Mm, yea, I drew them up, they aren't at all to scale but they are in my user album. They are suposed to appear in my signature but they have disapeard, I'll try to get them back. And yes, they are spotted!

Once I get my peices, I will start a thread and take lots of pictures, I want to add to the comunnity, not just take a way! I've decided to build the shoto saber with an Cyan III instead.

dgdve
08-14-2009, 12:14 PM
gl girl we all await your thread!! :)

FenderBender
08-14-2009, 07:24 PM
You should be able to fit all that in a 5" Hilt. I just did one with a soundboard and a 6" hilt. Just have Tim drill the hole for the switch as far up as it can go with out hitting the Heatsink lug, which extends down 3/8ths past the lip the heatsink sits on. So thats exactly 1 inch down from one end of a body section, The puck can be hot glued flat to the front of the battery pack and you will have all the room you need:)

Iria
08-16-2009, 06:26 PM
Thanks, Fender! That was really helpful! I was getting my robes in a twist over that, actually. I really wanted a very, obscenely small hilt for my off handed saber so that's really good to know! Between myself, and my husbands' awesome Tetris skillz we should be able to get it all in there safely, as long as we have the room!

Everyone has been incredibly helpful, thanks to all!

FenderBender
08-19-2009, 10:41 AM
Thanks, Fender! That was really helpful! I was getting my robes in a twist over that, actually. I really wanted a very, obscenely small hilt for my off handed saber so that's really good to know! Between myself, and my husbands' awesome Tetris skillz we should be able to get it all in there safely, as long as we have the room!

Everyone has been incredibly helpful, thanks to all!

No problem! If you need any help just PM me and I'll be glad to share any secrets;)

Darth Mintcakes
08-19-2009, 05:36 PM
Thanks, Fender! That was really helpful! I was getting my robes in a twist over that, actually. I really wanted a very, obscenely small hilt for my off handed saber so that's really good to know! Between myself, and my husbands' awesome Tetris skillz we should be able to get it all in there safely, as long as we have the room!

Everyone has been incredibly helpful, thanks to all!

Yup, FenderBender is right. I used a 5" extension as the main body for this saber:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=8425

I put the switch in the pommel, but there was enough extra space with the battery pack and buck puck installed that I'm sure there would be enough room for the illuminated switch.

Iria
08-19-2009, 08:26 PM
Oh, thanks for that, Darth Mintcakes. It's good to know. The last thing I need is to get it all here and for it not to fit. That would be a barrel of fun.

(BTW, I love your name! :D)

Kal-El_Kenobi1138
07-07-2015, 12:22 PM
Hey guys I'm fairly new to this whole saber building thing. I have a standard stunt UltraSaber and I want to put an illuminated latching switch in. These diagrams are great and all, except that mine doesn't have a buckpuck, just a regular LED. under normal circumstances, I'd just buy one and wire everything the way it is here. However, they're out of stock right now. So I was wondering if someone could draw up a schematic for me that makes sense? Your help is much appreciated. Thank you.