Best type of LED?

[Dendore]

So I'm somewhat electronic savvy, but definately new to the saber scene. Trying to come up with a design for my first saber. I'm probably going to use the TCSS battle style blade (I believe these already coem with the diffuser right?) at around 36-38". I'm shooting for blue. I won't be using a soundboard so I can do pretty much any voltage on the LED (correct me if I'm wrong). I originally planned on using a Lux3 but now I see no reason not to use a Lux5, or even now I just saw a posting about a Rebel and it looked even brighter than the Lux5. Also some people like Seoul. How do all these brands compare? It doesn't have to be the brightest thing ever (I don't want it to melt and will be using the heatsink that comes with the blade holder), and of course space restrictions on the battery pack apply. I just want it to be visible in a normally lit room as be a solid bright even color throughtout the blade, especially at night/dark room.

Edit: I guess I should also ask if I should use the 5 or 10mm lens thing for my setup. (Also which order do I assembled the LED? From out to in I believe: Holder,LED,lens,heatsink?)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

If you order a complete TCSS battle blade, it will come fully assembled, with a diffuser.

The different led's are really a matter of preference. If you have no intention of adding a soundboard later, then go with the Luxeon V. If you might want to install a Hasbro "economy" (read: toy) souind board later, use either the Luxeon III or the P4. I personally like the brightness and color saturation of the blue P4 over the Lux III, but some people have had problems with the P4's burning out. So far none of mine have. The reason I'd suggest the P4 if you plan to ever add sound is that the Hasbro economy and the Master Replicas/Hasbro Signature Series FX boards will not handle the voltage requirements of the Luxeon V (6.85 volts). Usually anything over 6 volts will burn up the sound board. There are ways to get around that, but it can be difficult to do on a first saber.

The rebel would also be an excellent choice for use with a soundboard as well.

For the battle blade, I would suggest the 5 degree lens. The narrower beam pattern will light up the thick-walled polycarbonate blade a bit better than a 10 degree.

[Dendore]

Jay thank you very much for the very helpful response. I looked into that hasbro board and didn't realize they were so cheap. I mean some people are saying under 10. I'm a little skeptical... Either way it's more money and more complicated than originally planned *sigh*. But would be cool.

TCSS Doesn't sell Rebels do they? They are listed as much higher on the Lumens which I like. Is there any downside to them though? And do they mount to the lens or the heatsink?

[Count Malik]

I think x-wing is the one who has done afew rebels... and according to this video so has madcow! lol8-) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIXrbZrLnD4 Now I want a reble! XD

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Yes Xwingband is the expert on rebels.

A Lux rebel on a star PCB would mount to the TCSS heatsink in the normal fashion.

There are also smaller square PCB ones for use with certain custom saber designs where space is hard to come by but for use with TCSS MHS parts and especially for a first build save yourself the trouble and stay with star mounts no matter what LED you choose.

[Count Malik]

how much battery supply do you need to run the rebels any
way?

[vargose]

A Seoul P4 blue looks beautiful. I love that LED. Its not as greedy as the Lux V. I personally like how it looks with a thinwalled blade with about 5 feet of clear cellophane gift wrap rolled up inside. See here. (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=7274)

The Rebel will give you the brightness of a Lux V with about the same power requirements of a Seoul P4. So I imagine that would be a good trade off. The rebel however will be harder to mount and it will need specific optics. Not a bad idea, but just a forewarning that you'll need to do some reading.

But I would honestly go with the Seoul P4 blue. Great color.

[Dendore]

Is there a place to order a single LED rebel mounted on a star like the P4 sold here? Besides the ones customized by xwing? On the rebel site the only color star ones are triple LED, and I would like to be able to use it with the collimeter lens and heatsink sold here etc., without too much hassle.

[cannibal869]

Just FYI - blade "evenness" is more of a factor of the appropriate blade diffuser than the LED that you use. That said, I agree with all the above comments. If you can manage it, maybe do a custom Tri-Rebel BBB (meaning all 3 LEDs are blue), but the wiring can be a bit tricky. I've noticed that if they're mounted close together like X-Wing's then a K2 lens holder with the normal 5 degree lens should suffice. If you want more simplicity, just use a P4 blue. I'm actually planning on making a blue P4 for my next saber.

I used to have a LuxV royal blue and I've heard the P4 comes pretty darn close in appearance.

Edit: I'm sending you a PM with a link to where you can source the Rebel...
Edit2: ok for some reason I can't send you a PM yet and TIm doesn't offer these in the store, so here goes - mods if this is in violation, feel free to delete the link...
http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Luxeon/Luxeon-REBEL-c_49_85.html

Good luck and post pics when you're done!
-C

[Dendore]

I don't think I want to try to deal with the Tri Rebel. The wiring and mounting issues are a little more than I want for my first saber, besides also hearing that since they arent centered you really dont get the full brightness of 3 of them. I wouldnt mind a single rebel but cant find those mounted.

But I did just notice that the K2s are very close in brightness (to a single rebel). Good on voltage (I could use it with a hasbro soundboard if I choose), and even sold here in the TCSS store. Why has noone recommended this? Seems like the best choice to me. Am I overlooking something?

[Count Malik]

I don't think I want to try to deal with the Tri Rebel. The wiring and mounting issues are a little more than I want for my first saber, besides also hearing that since they arent centered you really dont get the full brightness of 3 of them. I wouldnt mind a single rebel but cant find those mounted.

But I did just notice that the K2s are very close in brightness (to a single rebel). Good on voltage (I could use it with a hasbro soundboard if I choose), and even sold here in the TCSS store. Why has noone recommended this? Seems like the best choice to me. Am I overlooking something?

Well... K2's are good but... from what I've heard and have done they are a pain to solder. On a private note, and this may just be me but they weren't very durable (but then again I like to duel alot...so.):D They also have a different shade of "a" color. It is, again, all up to you!:-P

[cannibal869]

Most people tend to stay away from the K2 because of the 1400-1500 mA needed to properly drive it to its maximum potential.

It's hard to achieve this and there are newer more efficient LEDs out there.

With the LEDs, you ideally want to properly drive them or slightly overdrive them (i.e. use the maximum recommended mA for the LED or perhaps 10-20% more than recommended). So for the Lux III and P4 for instance, you want to use something like a 1000 mA buckpuck to regulate the amount of current going through the LED. Or with a Lux V you would want to run at 700 mA or slightly above that. What makes it easier is that buckpucks already come in 700 mA and 1000 mA ratings already.

If you want more tailored settings, you would almost have to use a board like the crystal focus or ultrasound.

FYI, if you haven't seen this thread yet, it might help you a little:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=7266

[Frank G]

So I'm somewhat electronic savvy, but definately new to the saber scene. Trying to come up with a design for my first saber. I'm probably going to use the TCSS battle style blade (I believe these already coem with the diffuser right?) at around 36-38". I'm shooting for blue. I won't be using a soundboard so I can do pretty much any voltage on the LED (correct me if I'm wrong). I originally planned on using a Lux3 but now I see no reason not to use a Lux5, or even now I just saw a posting about a Rebel and it looked even brighter than the Lux5. Also some people like Seoul. How do all these brands compare? It doesn't have to be the brightest thing ever (I don't want it to melt and will be using the heatsink that comes with the blade holder), and of course space restrictions on the battery pack apply. I just want it to be visible in a normally lit room as be a solid bright even color throughtout the blade, especially at night/dark room.

Edit: I guess I should also ask if I should use the 5 or 10mm lens thing for my setup. (Also which order do I assembled the LED? From out to in I believe: Holder,LED,lens,heatsink?)

I strongly suggest that you try a tri-Rebel, you will need 3 or 4 Li-Ion (AA size) batterys to power a tri-rebel. visit incomsabers.com in the products section you will find tri-rebels double and single rebels also, and optics.

[FenderBender]

I strongly suggest that you try a tri-Rebel, you will need 3 or 4 Li-Ion (AA size) batterys to power a tri-rebel. visit incomsabers.com in the products section you will find tri-rebels double and single rebels also, and optics.

I Would stongly suggest reading more on the available LEDs. The rebel setups are generally more for people who want color blending and clash flash (soundboard only option). If you want a good, bright, easy to use blue then go with the P4. It is nice and bright, has a great shade of blue. I have personally wired about 38 P4 blues and NONE have blown, all have been consistant in brightness and color hue. Not to mention they are easy as hell to solder.

If you are a brightness whore (like me) you may want to look into some of the newer LEDengin LEDs. The 5 watt and 10 watt versions are incredible. The 5 watt versions are brighter than a P4 and can be run from a MR/Hasbro board, though not to its full potential. These things really need 1500ma but could take up to 1800ma pretty easily. The 10 watt versions are another tasty morsel, with 4 dice igniting this thing it's damn near the brightest thing you'll see for a while. Though you'll need somewhere in the neighborhood of 15v to power it, a simple 1000ma buck puck will do the work of driving it.

Do some reading, have some fun. Hell build several sabers with different blue LEDs and see which one YOU like better.

[vargose]

The Cree XR-E Blue is also a good option. I am going to try one the next time I do a blue. I hear its brighter the the P4 and it only needs 700ma. You could run at 1000ma just fine.

[Frank G]

I Would stongly suggest reading more on the available LEDs. The rebel setups are generally more for people who want color blending and clash flash (soundboard only option). If you want a good, bright, easy to use blue then go with the P4.....

You might be right FBender, what are the specs on thouse P4s? Im gonna give thouse P4 a try.

I still think thouse rebel are something else, the rebels consume about the same power that a luxeon III but they perform as a luxeon V.

I gues you guys are familiar to this vid, but any way its a Luxeon V vs Single Rebel. (Both greens but you get the idea)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sV_6Qe6kCBk

Again, I will give P4s a try, thanks FenderBender

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You might be right FBender, what are the specs on thouse P4s? Im gonna give thouse P4 a try.

I still think thouse rebel are something else, the rebels consume about the same power that a luxeon III but they perform as a luxeon V.

I gues you guys are familiar to this vid, but any way its a Luxeon V vs Single Rebel. (Both greens but you get the idea)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sV_6Qe6kCBk

Again, I will give P4s a try, thanks FenderBender

The P4's have roughly the same power requirements of the Luxeon III's.

[strengthofrage]

Just going back to the K2 question for a sec...

I have a couple sabers running K2 green and royal blue... everything you've heard about the soldering being difficult is true. The pads try their hardest to keep you from soldering anything to them. Once you do get them soldered though (I found that the higher temp setting on my soldering iron works best, just gotta be careful) they are a really nice LED for a real decent price. As for driving them to their potential, there are a few threads that have instructions on how to run two 700mA pucks together to get it done. This setup works well. So, for your question of "Why hasn't anyone suggested K2?"... I don't think it is because people don't like them, just that there have been some new LEDs used in sabers that are equally priced but easier to wire & drive. I have had no problems with mine once soldered :)

[Novastar]

I Would stongly suggest reading more on the available LEDs. The rebel setups are generally more for people who want color blending and clash flash (soundboard only option).Just an FYI for people... (quasi) flash on clash *CAN* be done with a more "direct drive" style saber. But, it would require some kind of extra switch:

* Spring sensor to close/open line to a "flash" LED when a collision occurs
and/or...
* Button to trigger it manually. Probably momentary would be best.

It's true that without the proper "delay" / correct timing... the vibration sensor solution would BARELY give you but a tiny tiny moment of brightness... but... it's still SOMEthing. :)

More savvy electronic wizards might try things like capacitors and delay chips to help facilitate the ability for the current to flow for a bit longer than just a simple micro-micro-second!! :)

[Matt Thorn]

The 10 watt versions are another tasty morsel, with 4 dice igniting this thing it's damn near the brightest thing you'll see for a while. Though you'll need somewhere in the neighborhood of 15v to power it, a simple 1000ma buck puck will do the work of driving it.
FenderBender, I am thinking quite seriously (as in, my cursor is hovering over the "Send" button) thinking of buying a LedEngin 10-Watt Green star (LZ4-40G110). I figure I can run it with four 14500 900mAh 3.6V Li-ions, but you caught me off guard with your reference to a "1000mA BuckPuck." The datasheet says the LED wants 700mA, so I was thinking 700mA BuckPuck. Does the LED handle 1000mA all right, and does 1000mA makes it much brighter than 700mA? Finally, does the LED need a heatsink about the size of Rhode Island, or will one of Tim's do?

Since this is not a cheap LED, I don't want to 1) discover that I can't use it in a saber or 2) fry the thing (although I don't see how I could put together enough volts to fry it, short of plugging it into the wall).

[cardcollector]

While we're on the topics of LED's What do I have to buy to get a SOLID ORANGE LED??

I don't want any of the Amber stuff- No filters either.
I plan on running it off a MR board. Any help???

[Matt Thorn]

While we're on the topics of LED's What do I have to buy to get a SOLID ORANGE LED??

I don't want any of the Amber stuff- No filters either.
I plan on running it off a MR board. Any help???
Well, stickied to the top of this very "LED Questions & Answers" section is your answer (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=120631&postcount=3). (Did you try searching for "orange"? Can't miss it. ;)) And as Hasid clarifies two or three posts later, the orange LED is labeled "Amber" in his link, but is in fact orange.

[Sairon]

he beated me! lol

[cardcollector]

Sweet! Thanks for coroperating with my incompotence Matt...:cool:

BTW as a side note, How do you order a specific BIN number on a LED from an Online store???

[Sairon]

You can't realy, it depends on the batch.

[yell0w_lantern]

Whaddaya know. I've seen orange listed on the brightness chart but the link never worked for me. The specs say 595nm and according to the Atmospheric Sciene Data Center orange is roughly 590nm.

[yell0w_lantern]

On further snooping, 595nm is the max value and the low range is about 584nm. The LED is produced by Edison Opto, which according to one source, is simply the same Lumileds technology as the Lux 3's.

[Count Malik]

btw everyone I take back everything bad about the green k2s... New fav.:D

[Hasid Lafre]

The lumens for the orange led say like 70 something but its way brighter than the bin 2 luxIII amber my brother had and is way more orange than susposed bin4 luxIII ambers that are susposed to be as orange as it gets.

[yell0w_lantern]

The color by BIN code chart here lists a BIN 7 Amber at about 596nm wavelength. Is that only in K2 or has it been discontinued or something?