QuiGon style MHS

[Drewsive]

So I just came across the emitter style 18 and it looks extremely close to ( if not a replica) of QuiGon's from TPM. I have been racking my brain and using the MHS builder to try and come up with a way to get very close to the QuiGon design....of course I would have to make the outer detail piece(not sure what to call it but its the silver piece that wraps around the hilt to give it detail) but i was thinking maybe two ribbed pieces for the majority of the hilt and then emitter 18 and pommel 7

anybody have any thoughts on this? I thought it would be fun to start a thread where people can post their ideas on how to get as close as possible to QuiGons design without having too much custom machining done.

Discuss!...i cant wait to hear everyones thoughts:mrgreen:

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

I usually call that outer piece an overlay or shroud and it could perhaps be cut out of a sink tube with a Dremel rotary tool, though personally I don't have the dremel-fu skillz to do that...you may though, or there are many expert sabersmiths here and on other forums who might be able to make one for you...but I wouldnt expect to ever see it available here nor other MHS pieces that are very close to that design since this is The Custom Saber Shop not The Replica Saber Shop and we wouldnt want Strydur to get into any Imperial Entanglements eh?

[Barmic Rin]

I'd use pommel 7, 7" f/f extension & blade holder 18. Then get the grooves cut into it, and switch hole moved slightly further up than a standard main piece. Then Dremel-Fu the shroud yourself or as Onli said, commision a smith to DF it.

EASY!!!!

[cardcollector]

There was a guy who did a hardware saber...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=1544

I have been thinking about doing one for some time and IF I were to make one I would probably use sinktube and MHS together.

[DragonStar]

I am attempting the same build. Barmic Rin has the right general idea but is off a bit. I'm currently considering pommel 7, 10" double female threaded externsion and blade holder 18.

I took an image of Jinn's saber and put it atop a screencap of the above layout from MHS builder. I added green around the edges of the MHS screenshot to more easily see where the differences between the two sabers lie. I then adjusted the transparency to see where things match up. You can see the results here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/robsspamtrapper/JinnMHS#

This excercise reveals some interesting insights.

The style 18 is extremely close, differing only in the number of grooves between the emitter and body. Otherwise its outline is an exact match.

Moving down from the emitter, the first "mini groove" in Jinn's saber starts precisely where the threads of the 10" F/F extension end. This means the "collar" of Jinn's saber precisely overlays the threads, which is sweet. No need to mess with the threaded part.

On the opposite end, the silver overlay of Jinn's saber begins within 1/4" of where the threads end. You could epoxy the shroud near the bottom of the F/F extension and it would be darn close to exact, with the threaded part of the F/F extension and the #7 pommel forming the "pommel" of Jinn's saber.

In the body itself, the "mini grooves", switch area, and "big grooves" all fit within the circumference of the MHS extension. This means you can get away with purely subtractive methods (lathe, saw, dremel, etc) and not have to add anything.

The #7 pommel is not as beautiful a match as the #18 emitter, but it it close enough to pass casual inspection. Jinn's saber pommel is more rounded and a bit "fatter."

Anyway, I think it can be done the MHS way. I'm still plotting but this looks promising.

[Pullo]

I will soon be starting work on a replica Qui Gon, using MHS parts. Parts are currently in customs and should be with me in the next few days. ( I'm a slow builder so don't expect finished pics too soon) Blade holder 18 is as close as you can legally get in "of the shelf" capacity. I have no special equipment to make custom pieces, but I have a few Ideas how to do this. There is a thread of Matt Thorns cool looking Qui Gon MHS, http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9071I hope mine looks as good when it is finished. I shall be attempting to dremel the overlay myself from aluminum pipe. I have a different take on creating the ridges for the saber, I don't want to say too much because it is a kind of out there idea and I don't want to be laughed at for suggesting it. But if it works it could save a load of bucks.

[beggarsoutpost]

I am attempting the same build. Barmic Rin has the right general idea but is off a bit. I'm currently considering pommel 7, 10" double female threaded externsion and blade holder 18.

I took an image of Jinn's saber and put it atop a screencap of the above layout from MHS builder. I added green around the edges of the MHS screenshot to more easily see where the differences between the two sabers lie. I then adjusted the transparency to see where things match up. You can see the results here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/robsspamtrapper/JinnMHS#

This excercise reveals some interesting insights.

The style 18 is extremely close, differing only in the number of grooves between the emitter and body. Otherwise its outline is an exact match.

Moving down from the emitter, the first "mini groove" in Jinn's saber starts precisely where the threads of the 10" F/F extension end. This means the "collar" of Jinn's saber precisely overlays the threads, which is sweet. No need to mess with the threaded part.

On the opposite end, the silver overlay of Jinn's saber begins within 1/4" of where the threads end. You could epoxy the shroud near the bottom of the F/F extension and it would be darn close to exact, with the threaded part of the F/F extension and the #7 pommel forming the "pommel" of Jinn's saber.

In the body itself, the "mini grooves", switch area, and "big grooves" all fit within the circumference of the MHS extension. This means you can get away with purely subtractive methods (lathe, saw, dremel, etc) and not have to add anything.

The #7 pommel is not as beautiful a match as the #18 emitter, but it it close enough to pass casual inspection. Jinn's saber pommel is more rounded and a bit "fatter."

Anyway, I think it can be done the MHS way. I'm still plotting but this looks promising.You've got a good idea going there... but the dimensions seem to be off... Right now you overlaying a 12 1/2 inch saber over a saber that is only 11 1/4 inches...

[DragonStar]

Ooh, that's interesting. Thanks for pointing it out. What I did was increase the size of the MHS builder screencap until it fit the width of Jinn's saber. In other words, I fitted it until the #18 emitter matched the MR product image exactly. That led to a 10" f/f having the right proportions.

So now I have to answer the question... do I want the length to be correct and the proportions to be off, or the proportions to be correct and the length wrong?

Or, a mix of the two?

Hmm...

A 9" f/f adapter brings the length to 11.61 inches. That is close enough for me. but you're right that 12.61 was just too much difference. thanks!

[Matt Thorn]

If anyone's interested in my MHS Qui-Gon, check out "Qui-Gon-style MHS saber (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=146096#1)" and "MHS Qui-Gon prototype. (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9071)"

So where did Drewsive go? Is this a case of post-and-run?

BTW, DragonStar, I went with "right length, wrong proportions, as you can see from the photos. It looks "plump" compared with Madcow's or an MR replica hilt.