MHS Choke Section #3

[Darth Abominor]

My searches have not shown an answer to this question, but does the MHS Choke Section #3 (curved neck extension) allow for the blade of a 1in poly to extend through the neck of the choke? I assume this is not possible since the emitters I understand don't normally have a wide enough threaded section to pass a 1in blade, but just checking in case I was wrong.

[Dark Navel]

No, a 1" blade cannot fit through the curved neck section of that choke.

[Jedi-Loreen]

http://www.threadbombing.com/data/media/2/687fea91677be9103defb8dc0b97e8b7.gif

Why would you even contemplate doing this? :confused:You'd need a place to put the optics.

And yes, the blade holders are designed with a blade stop to hold the blades above the optics. :rolleyes:

[Lord Dottore Matto]

My searches have not shown an answer to this question, but does the MHS Choke Section #3 (curved neck extension) allow for the blade of a 1in poly to extend through the neck of the choke? I assume this is not possible since the emitters I understand don't normally have a wide enough threaded section to pass a 1in blade, but just checking in case I was wrong.


No it won't fit. Why do you want to know? I mean, what exactly are you trying to accomplish? Maybe we can help if we know what the goal is ;)

[Barmic Rin]

My searches have not shown an answer to this question, but does the MHS Choke Section #3 (curved neck extension) allow for the blade of a 1in poly to extend through the neck of the choke? I assume this is not possible since the emitters I understand don't normally have a wide enough threaded section to pass a 1in blade, but just checking in case I was wrong.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t78/barmic_rin/internet%20bitching/Hamster_Jedi_by_gusdefrog.jpg

No. it won't. As Navel says, it won't fit. And the blade holder has the blade stop as J-lo mentioned.
Do give us a better idea so we can help.

Master Hampster says to read the 'New to Sabers' topic. Start with that one, then work your way down.

Read, Read, and Read some more.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

BR, I'm Lovin' Master Hampster! :lol:

[Barmic Rin]

BR, I'm Lovin' Master Hampster! :lol:

Thanks, I figured i'd give the comedian a break... :)

And i'm loving the Sisko one from J-lo!!!!

[Jedi-Loreen]

And i'm loving the Sisko one from J-lo!!!!

I got that from one of LDM's posts.


And D A, please read the threads linked in the top of LDM's signature.

[Darth Abominor]

I was just confirming the option of a blade through 'certain parts' to make sure of whatever form a saber might take. I like to be 110% sure of what not to place next to a body section or the like. And yes, I have read the 'Basics of building a Saber' links many times, hence why I was wondering about the chokes. The build lists and such are very general and very helpful in the details of a build, but this was a question of a single section option. Thanks for the info folks.

My idea was one of a blade through the hilt, ending at the LED/Lens to allow the blade to be seen glowing through cut-outs in the hilt, along the length of the saber. This could easily be done with other LEDs I know, but was just thinking with my fingers.

[ARKM]

A 3/4" OD blade will fit through it... if you're into 3/4" OD blades.

[TimeRender]

I was just confirming the option of a blade through 'certain parts' to make sure of whatever form a saber might take. I like to be 110% sure of what not to place next to a body section or the like. And yes, I have read the 'Basics of building a Saber' links many times, hence why I was wondering about the chokes. The build lists and such are very general and very helpful in the details of a build, but this was a question of a single section option. Thanks for the info folks.

My idea was one of a blade through the hilt, ending at the LED/Lens to allow the blade to be seen glowing through cut-outs in the hilt, along the length of the saber. This could easily be done with other LEDs I know, but was just thinking with y fingers.

That just goes to show that you haven't read enough, because you should know that the LED is mounted just beneath the blade holder, and as it was mentioned before, the blade holder will not allow the blade to go into the hilt.

[Darth Abominor]

I tend to feel that 3/4in OD blades are too weak for my standard usage, but good to know.

And TR, I know that is the standard position of an LED, hence my point you felt so ready to quote.. As to the Blade Stops and the like, I was wondering if there were methods to remove them, change them, that others may have used to allow passage of a blade deeper into a hilt where an LED might be deeply stationed.

[ARKM]

I tend to feel that 3/4in OD blades are too weak for my standard usage, but good to know.

Same here. Just providing info.

[TimeRender]

Well yes, you could mount the led further back in the hilt, but you're going to run into some problems. First, you will have to have the blade stop milled out of your emitter. Secondly, you will need to have a custom blade stop made to hold the optics and prevent the blade from damaging the LED when you mount it further into the hilt. Third, and this is the big problem, by mounting the led and the blade deeper into the hilt, you are going to cause your blade to appear much dimmer. This seems to be a very expensive and difficult route to take just to have an illuminated window, when you could very easily just mount a second LED. What is the point?

[Darth Abominor]

That was my point, an extra LED mounted lower in the hilt seemed the logical action to take, but I wanted input from the voices that know as to the need vs the simple act of LED positioning.

[TimeRender]

Hahaha I have no idea what you just said. Could you say that more clearly?

[Darth Abominor]

You really need to read before you go placing quotes of things you don't understand.

An extra LED in the hilt so that cut away sections look like the blade extends deeply into the hilt.. I can't be more simple than that. Matching the LED cut-out lighting to match the Blade light color/brightness is the main issue I am having. Got it now??

[TimeRender]

Yes, and that is absolutely the first time you have been clear about that. It seemed to me that prior to your last post you were trying to find a way to extend the blade into the hilt. And you have to admit, that last post made very little sense at all.

[Darth Abominor]

I was trying to extend the blade, into the hilt.

That's the best match one could make for the color and brightness of the blade, right??

As to the stop in the emitter, that's an easy job to remove if it's just a metal trim that extends into the blade opening at the base of the section.

And as to the 'it can't be done' feeling you seem to be throwing around in the less than considerate posts TR, I figured it out just be thinking my way around the stop issue.. so you can stop telling me how I am totally off the mark when you have no clue what my intention is with this build concept.

Ohhh, is that spoken in English or are you still reading it as some dead Sith scribble?

Before the Mods hit the thread with a 'be nice kids' action, just know that when I ask a simple question like:
.."does the MHS Choke Section #3 (curved neck extension) allow for the blade of a 1in poly to extend through the neck of the choke?"
I would hope for nothing less than constructive Yes or No answers, maybe with the reason why attached. I got that from nearly everyone, and I appreciate the input folks.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Ok, let's stay civil here, guys.

[TimeRender]

Chill. Re-read the post where I explained the issue with the blade stop. My intention was not to rain on your parade, just to explain why there are better ways to achieve the effect. I told you that yes, you CAN mill out the blade stop, but you still have two other problems to deal with. A second LED is a much simpler solution, and you're not going to have problems getting the LED colors to match. If this is going to be your reaction every time people share their experience with you, you won't be able to count on many of us to offer their advice. And just for the record, I understood every word you said just fine except for this little gem "I wanted input for the voices that know as to the need vs the simple act of LED positioning." Don't get upset with me for misunderstanding THAT.

[Darth Abominor]

See, there it is! :cool:

[TimeRender]

Before the Mods hit the thread with a 'be nice kids' action, just know that when I ask a simple question like:
.."does the MHS Choke Section #3 (curved neck extension) allow for the blade of a 1in poly to extend through the neck of the choke?"
I would hope for nothing less than constructive Yes or No answers, maybe with the reason why attached. I got that from nearly everyone, and I appreciate the input folks.

You are absolutely right, and I am sorry for looking beyond the immediate question to try to provide more information. From now on I will be sure to let you make your own time consuming and costly mistakes.

[Darth Abominor]

Thanx TR.. I'll be sure to ignore your bold and unkind HAHAHA's and "You can't do that.." answers without first knowing about what or why I am asking a question. Your silence will be most appreciated while others, as they did, answer my questions with little to no comments other than a request for a reason and suggestion of kind assistance.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Okay. okay...Just calm down in here...wait it is already calm...as you were then...;)

Okay as soon as I post the humorous response, I see 2 new pots of verbal sparring. DA, Timerender is a senior member here and was not attacking you early on. I simply posted an answer/ response to you because I was interested to see how this would go and it did seem like a descent question to me. TR is responding to your barbs at this point and this discussion is deteriorating. I think it is time that everyone cool off and lets just move on. If you will check around you will see that I make a point of doing the "un-doable" so my advice to you would be that you go ahead and try it. THe worst thing that happens is that it does not work and you are out a few bucks! THe best thing that happens is that you do something that no one else has done, and believe me that feels great.

[Darth Abominor]

hehe. :twisted: I am going to mock a PVC version of this build first, in order to determine the basics are sound. TY LDM for the attempt at a cool-down assist.

[TimeRender]

I apologize for the laughter, it wasn't directed toward your idea, just toward the sentence you wrote. I found it amusing. I never once said you couldn't do it, I just asked you why you would want to. I was the ONLY person to explain how you would actually accomplish what you set out to do. I was NOT the only one to express that we didn't see the point. I would be happy to quote other member's posts from the first page if you don't remember. What I explained in my post about the blade stop was the most constructive thing posted in this thread second only to the answer to the initial question of the inner diameter of the choke. I am not sure why you directed so much animosity to me, but if you could explain how I have offended I will apologize.

[Darth Abominor]

In the mean time, with constructive intent, if the blade stop is removed from the blade holder and then a second blade screw is mounted lower on the hilt.. I wonder how that would effect the blade/LED contact issue. Maybe a simple PVC ring glued in place lower in the hilt to act as a lesser blade stop could solve the issue. It makes for a very long hilt when built this way, but it seems still a reasonable option as the hilt adds strength to the base of the blade now and the PVC block still keeps the LED safely a few cm from the blade.

[TimeRender]

A second screw will not help as the blade retention screws work based on the friction with the inside of the blade holder, which will be nonexistent lower in the hilt. You will need to build a blade stop, and pvc should work so long as you can affix it well to the hilt and so long as it is the right size to accept the optic.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

hehe. :twisted: I am going to mock a PVC version of this build first, in order to determine the basics are sound. TY LDM for the attempt at a cool-down assist.

Actually, that was me, as a Council member, TELLING you guys to keep it civil. ;) But I can see thatyou guys are communicating constructively now, so carry on.

[Jedi-Loreen]

DJmoonbass did something like this on the long hilt that he machined himself. He machined windows into his hilt so that the blade that extends into the hilt can sort of act as a "crystal chamber".

You could epoxy the optics onto the LED star, since the bottom part of the blade holder holds them in place (one of it's 2 functions), and add some sort of stop to keep the blade holder from damaging the optics, if you really want to have a blade holder bored out so that a 1" blade can pass through it.

You can also use screws (I'd use more than one) that pass into the hilt above the optics to act as a blade stop. I worked on a conversion of an old Lightech EL saber that had been bored out from 3/4" to 1" and had 3 holes drilled and tapped and equally spaced around the hilt. I did the electronics for this and a few other things that the machinist didn't understand that needed to be done to make this work as an LED saber.

[Darth Abominor]

I knew I could not have been the first to think of such a build :)

It's an interesting issue, as I have a number of well used Econo-UltraSaber hilts here, and they have NO blade stops at all. I have never seen contact between the LEDs and the Blades cause any issue during duels or heavy sparring.

Also, why would a second Blade Screw fail to do anything but add to the strength of the blade's "locking" in the hilt if the first screw does a perfect job only 2in from the hilt forward opening of keeping the blade in check? Seems more like a 'waste of work/time' while I see it as just one more detail screw that adds something to the hilt both in look and structure.

[Lord Maul]

If you need a blade stop and don't want one custom machined, there is a simple solution. Take a piece of thin walled poly C and slide it over the LED/optics. It will fit snugly and keep the blade from smashing the optics. Tim's metal ones are more sturdy, but in a pinch this method works as well.

Oh, and thanks for calming down...I don't like locking threads :D

EDIT: The reason the crappy PVC UltraSabers don't have a blade stop is because every corner that could be cut was cut in order to make them as cheap as possible. If you want a saber that can really take a beating, put one in

[Darth Abominor]

The more I look into the eco-hilts, the more reason I have to think the boys at US did just that, placed a bit of Poly Blade shell around the LED housing. Like a snug buffer casing for the optics. That should do just fine I think.

[TimeRender]

Also, why would a second Blade Screw fail to do anything but add to the strength of the blade's "locking" in the hilt if the first screw does a perfect job only 2in from the hilt forward opening of keeping the blade in check? Seems more like a 'waste of work/time' while I see it as just one more detail screw that adds something to the hilt both in look and structure.

I explained this. The retention screw holds the blade in place by putting pressure on it to hold it against the inside of the blade holder. The inside of a blade holder has a diameter of 1", but the other hilt pieces have a much more spacious ID.

Edit: I find it a little hurtful that you thank everyone else for their input, when most of them have said nothing more than the very things I told you. I am trying to be helpful, and I think that I have been.

[Darth Abominor]

And a simple ring of PVC set at the point of the second Blade Screw, inside the hilt, would not do that exactly the same as the Blade Holder?? Seems simple enough to me. Since you would need a 'thick area' to tap and screw in the bolt, this just seems the plain choice.

As you notice TR, I am still speaking to you with respect.. so call that being nice if you will. Thanks are given simply as a point of respect, so you have that in any case.

[TimeRender]

Yes, but then you still have the issue of constructing a blade stop, as the pvc ring surrounding the outside of the blade will not keep it from hitting the optics. The easiest thing is what Loreen suggested, adding three screws to the hilt to act as a blade stop and then gluing the optics to the star. I would worry about the glue breaking, but for light sparring it should be just fine. The question does still remain, what benefit does this have over the more standard window options?

[Jedi-Loreen]

As I mentioned, the underside of the blade holder (though I didn't say it this way) also holds in the optics, which is why would need to epoxy the optics to the LED star, as well as to the heat sink.

[TimeRender]

It's ok, Loreen, I think you were clear.

[Darth Abominor]

The Poly casing, found in my Eco's seems to be slightly longer than the LED/Sink itself. That would allow the blade to stay away from the LED and Lens. And yes, the epoxy idea made perfect sense the first time around. I know it seems like alot of moding to make something as simple as a 'crystal chamber with side vents' but I am still thinking it's worth the attempt just to know if it can be done without pulling one's hair out. ;)

[TimeRender]

I'm not sure how the poly casing with an ID of 1" will stop the blade from hitting the optics unless it closes off at the end. Could you elaborate?

[Darth Abominor]

If the casing of Poly is the same diam and thickness as the blade itself, then the LED optics will be kept clear of contact with the blade. Making the casing a few cm or so extend above the optics gives a safe buffer to avoid such contact. The only contact, if any, would be the blade wall edge and the wall edge of the casing. Any really brutal impact on the blade would cause 'rubbing or pushing' against the casing edges, but the LED would not be harmed directly by anything but a massive strike, or so it would seem from the tests I have done with the Poly blades. There is also the simple PVC ring just above the optics in a Poly casing option, as one more buffer for the blade during big strikes.

[TimeRender]

I see. So in that setup you would in fact need two inserts, one with an ID of 1" and an OD that fits snug inside whichever MHS part you put it in, and a second piece which will be roughly the same ID and OD as the blade to stop it from hitting the LED and optics. So long as you could fit that second insert around the optic and glue it and the optic to the star, it should work. It might still be simpler to skip this second insert in favor of using screws as the blade stop, but it might work the other way as well. I can't be sure until I remind myself what the dimensions on the optics are.

Just to sum it up neatly for everyone, you would need to bore out the blade stop on the holder, add a plastic sheath and secondary retention screw to the hilt, use at least two screws for the blade stop or use a second plastic insert, and glue or epoxy the optic to the star, and possibly the plastic blade stop as well if you choose that option.

This would work, but it still has two very big flaws, which are the reduced brightness of the blade and the increased cost and labor. It seems like an awfully high sacrifice just to reproduce a technique that has already been achieved on another saber. However, I might suggest that you talk to DJ Moonbass and ask him how he feels about his blade's brightness, and talk to others and ask their opinions as well.

[ARKM]

One thing that has not been mentioned yet is drilling and tapping a hole in the polycarbonate blade itself and having the blade retention screw be just long enough to go through the wall of the blade but not push up against the diffuser/film. I do this will all my 1" OD thick-walled polycarbonate blades and have had no problems with them when sparring. This may not work so well with thin-walled blades though. Regardless, unless you are stabbing your saber at something with all your might, this method works very well as a blade stop. It does not however solve any issues with holding the LED optics in place.

[Darth Abominor]

It has been said that such a drilling can damage the blade making it unsafe, but I've done it before on medium and heavy blades and found no issue with it during moderate sparring.

I am wondering how the brightness will be dropped simply by the position of the optics within the blade/hilt. I like to use UltraEdge blades which are very good at spreading an even light tone/level across the whole blade so a few inches of blade deeper into the hilt should not do much to the overall effect, or am I missing something?

[TimeRender]

I have heard of this cracking the blades under heavy sparring, and in a normal hilt setup it is absolutely not necessary. I wouldn't recommend this.

The deeper into the hilt your LED is, the more inner surface area that light has to be absorbed by. Even if the inside of the hilt is brought to a mirror finish, some (and possibly a lot) of that light will be lost. Also, the optic holder that is built into the blade stop does a very good job of assuring the proper alignment of the optic, which can have a dramatic affect on blade brightness.

[ARKM]

I have heard of this cracking the blades under heavy sparring, and in a normal hilt setup it is absolutely not necessary. I wouldn't recommend this.

I make custom sabers and spar hard. It works fine for me.

EDIT: Also I have been using thick walled polycarbonate tubes since 1999, years before I started machining hilts. I know what they can and cannot take in terms of stress, temperatures and whatnot.

[Darth Abominor]

Interesting little fact, something I will have to test to see just how much lost light there is from 1-2in optics position to a 6-8in depth. I considered the inner surface of the hilt being a minor issue as the blade is going deeper as well, and an UltraEdge blade is meant to do just that.. evenly draw the light 'up' the blade.

Funny thought is how long this hilt might turn out to be, unless I happen to find a good and compact wiring layout. Makes for some needed room when you account for the sound, optics, activator switch, etc.

[ARKM]

Funny thought is how long this hilt might turn out, unless I happen to find a good and compact wiring layout. Makes for some needed room when you account for the sound, optics, activator switch, etc.

Well, if you can get a US 2.x sound card, you can lay it on top of a 2AA battery pack using two 3.7V Trustfires. Would save a lot of space. I wish the FX boards would fit that way.

[TimeRender]

I just want to explain a little something here about my reason for posting so much on this thread. I put a lot of work into my first saber, and I thought it was very handsome when it was finished. I was lucky enough to purchase a CFC from Erv, from the very first batch he sold in the states. However, due to my haste and lack of planning, I had a series of problems installing the electronics into my hilt. At the end of the build I had somehow managed to get the battery pack that I had mounted the CFC to stuck in the hilt, and when I tried to dislodge it I accidentally damaged the circuit board. Breaking a commodity as rare and expensive as a CFC is a hard blow, and I almost left the hobby back then.

I have seen people post very ambitious saber ideas here on the forums since I joined. Many of those ideas never get built, or at least never get posted. LDM mentioned that he enjoys seeing people experiment and try to push the boundaries of the hobby, and many great ideas and really great sabers have been created this way. I feel the same way, but I hate to see people rush into overly ambitious projects without the proper planning. I have always thought that it was a better idea to start small and learn as you go along. I also differ from LDM's point of view in that I only appreciate innovations when they could potentially advance the knowledgebase of the community. Innovations that could only yield inferior results seem to me to be a waste of effort and money. If it can be reasonably foreseen that a line of experimentation will not advance the hobby, I feel that it should be abandoned. I would hate to see another new saber builder get discouraged and leave the hobby because of a bad first saber experience or a disappointing result. Having said that, I really do encourage you to think outside of the box and try to accomplish things that have never been done before. Just be sure you ask yourself along the way if a better solution already exists.

I wish you the best of luck if you attempt this build.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Guys, please refrain from double posting, just edit your posts if you have something to add after you hit the Submit button.

Thanks

[Darth Abominor]

Sorry JL, my bad.

I have no reason to imagine I will fail or fall short on any saber I build, thus why I think in PVC terms first and have an idea for a 'standard' mock set of internals that I will use for each saber build as I come up with them. Having been a builder of many, and I mean MANY home arcade cabinets, I think I can reason my way through a far more simple build as a saber.

I personally feel that if everyone who tries to build their own saber keeps a feeling of 'anything that works is a win since you can always make another and a better one next time' and builds mock up versions of the more complex concepts, then we'll all be proud to see the results.

[TimeRender]

You misunderstand. I don't presume to know what you are or are not capable of. I must assume that you know your own limitations, and that you have the skills necessary to finish the build that you have described. I simply don't believe that there is a point in trying such a difficult build. It does not demonstrate a superior technique, nor superior materials, nor a superior result, nor a more time, effort, or cost efficient result. The build does nothing to advance the hobby of saber building, so why not do yourself a favor and build a saber that is cheaper, easier, and more attractive? Would you not find it more satisfying to own a saber that is better in every way?

[Darth Abominor]

I did not assume you were speaking of my skills, and I like the challenge of this build idea.. just to say it can be done. When I wish to further the art form of saber building, I'll wait until I am more skilled at the saber builds in general, and also shoot for something more unique.

[TimeRender]

Hahaha well that's fine, but if you're just doing it to say that it can be done, I'm afraid you're a little bit late. Just recently DJ Moonbass posted a saber with a blade that extends into the hilt. Of course, this made more sense for his saber because he was machining it from scratch. He was not purchasing a perfectly functional blade holder and then converting it into a less functional one. And he wasn't the first to do it either. However, most people choose not to because it is more difficult and doesn't really look much different or better than the more common windows. As for building your own blade stop, this has been done too. In fact, before Tim made and sold them here, everyone who owned a custom hilt had to devise their own blade holding solutions. The reason this is no longer done very often is that the superior solution already exists, and it can be purchased for a reasonable price right here. Do whatever you like, just understand that you're trying to reinvent the wheel, and it can't get much better than it already is.

[ARKM]

TimeRender, there are many ways to acomplish the same goal. There isn't always just one right way to do it. Just because you believe something should be done a certain way doesn't mean we all have to agree with you or take your word as gospel... no matter how experienced you are.

I'm not stating that you think we should take your word as gospel but you do seem to come off that way in your posts.

Personally I don't believe one has to make a saber with the idea of it having to somehow contribute to the saber community. If it does, great, but that shouldn't have to be the goal. Personally I believe that a person should make a saber they like, the way they want to make it, regardless of what anyone else thinks. Obviously creative input is helpful and researching what has been done before is a good and smart thing to do but a lot can be learned by experimentation.

Tim's method of a blade stop in the emitter with a lip and smaller diameter hole at the bottom holding the optics perfectly against the LED is a great way to do things and a space saver to boot but it sometimes just won't cut it for certain designs one may wish to build. Since I build my own hilts, I have had to come up with my own LED optic holders, not to mention a way to keep the heatsink in place where I want it. Some cool ideas came from that and I only hope to improve upon it in the future both with and without having a blade stop in the emitter. Like I said before, there is more than one way to acomplish the same goal. That doesn't mean that only one method is the "right" one that should be used every time.

Anywho, I don't mean to offend you, just chiming in with my observations and opinions. We are all entitled to believe what we want to believe and feel a certain way about things regardless of what others think.

[TimeRender]

I don't mean to say that there is a "right" way to do this, just that there is a better way, and by better I mean cheaper, faster, stronger, brighter, and easier. You don't have to take my word for it, feel free to ask around and find out what other more experienced saber builders think. I've only built four mhs sabers, a number which pales in comparison to many of the members on these forums. Certainly there are a few designs that cannot be accomplished using the traditional methods, and if a particular style of window is the feature that you value most highly, then the method we discussed here may in fact be the best answer. I also don't believe that every saber needs to advance the hobby, and if you read what I said carefully you'll see that I never claimed that. What I said was that if you are going to try something new, it is only reasonable to try something that might yield a better result. Otherwise it is best to use tried and true methods that will give you a saber worth being proud of. As an example, if someone was trying to be innovative by illuminating their blade using a candle instead of an LED, that would in no way advance the hobby, nor would it provide a satisfactory result. And also the saber builder might burn his house down...

Anyway, no offense taken ARKM. I realize that the community depends on all kinds of opinions, and I certainly don't shy away from sharing mine, so why should you? I just hope that the conversation will prove useful and informative to someone, one way or another.

Also I just want to say again, if you want to go ahead with this build you have my best wishes. I don't want to see anyone screw up and waste their money. If you don't agree with my concerns and you think you can make this work better than the options that already exist, do what LDM would do and try to prove it. If you never come back and post your results, I'll assume that you didn't get it to work. If you DO post results, and they are GOOD, then you will have shut me up, you will have earned my respect, and you will have taught other saber builders something new. So go for it! We will be waiting.

[ARKM]

Well stated. However just because a person believes that something is better when done a certain way does not make it so. It just means that this is what that person believes.

Let's say we both have a certain belief about the same thing and that our beliefs contradict eachother and that we both have the same amount of supporters on our side (lots of supporters each). I believe I'm right from personal experience and you believe you're right from personal experience. Who's to say who is more correct in this situation? Heck, if both of our personal experiences contradict eachother, then wouldn't it stand to reason that correctness or incorrectness or one method being better than the other is not even in the equation and that it's really just a matter of personal preference? That's something to think about... and that's what I mean about there not being only one correct or best way to do things. Sometimes it's just a matter of personal preference. Obviously there are certain things in life where it probably does come down to "This is the best way to do it... period!" However with custom made lightsabers, I have to keep an open mind and experiment. In fact, if I felt that there was only one, best way to do this or that when it comes to making custom lightsabers, it might very well stagnate my growth as a saber maker.

Sorry to go off topic. I'll try not to keep doing that.

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Ultrasabers doesn't have an emitter/bladeholder blade stop in its 'masterpiece' design the Overlord - which is MHS compatible - and doesn't have a problem holding the optics in place either or with them being crushed by the blade in hard dueling.

The reason is the Overlord uses a Modular Light System module which stops the blade instead of having it stopped in the bladeholder...and the MLS also uses a reflector instead of an optic collimator so moots the holding-the-optics problem people have correctly pointed out.

For your stated purpose, if I understand it correctly, you might consider using an MLS in the MHS hilt below the choke. Of course the MLS will eat up more space inside the hilt section so there is a tradeoff there...how long you want the hilt to be is another issue.

I'm not exactly sure WHY anyone would want to go this route but since you choose to this might be another way to work it and hey its your saber so good luck building it.

[Darth Abominor]

If I can be a super geek for one sec.. I always thought that a young Jedi/Sith in his final stages of approaching the status of Master had to build 'his own' saber. If that is the case, then any method, no matter how rare, wonderous, stuipd or common it may be should be acceptable so long as the Apprentice makes it the way his instincts tell him is correct. Simple or complex, small or large, as you see fit.. build it your way.

One interesting point is that this first started as a question of the MHS Choke #3 section being too small for a blade. It has not really been brought up that the whole hilt, given the Blade Holder being one thing or another, could still just be a Sink Tube creation. A far cheaper and economical method of 'wasting' time and money I think.

The idea of making the crystal chamber with a simple LED addition and a section of UltraEdge Blade, just to make the windowed area look both the same width and color/brightness of the blade itself seems a simple task, but I would have to read more on such builds as I am going for a dead-on match of both sections of the blade/hilt.

[Zook]

what a mess to try and read through. That being said I didnt read all the responses so what I am about to suggest may have already been suggested.

Instead of mounting the blade deeper down you can just mount the LED deeper down the hilt as if you were mounting the blade lower. The TCSS pieces are designed to have a gap for the LED holder in all female to male connections (except the one adapter).

after you mount the LED lower you can then cut your windows and insert part of a blade (say through a choke use a short piece of 3/4 blade) or even just pieces (you only need to make it show light so it doesn't have to be a solid piece of plastic as long as you hide it well and it matches the blade type and design).

Then you can just use the regular blade stop on the blade holder. I would still mill the hole out as much as you can so as much light as possible can get through but leave a lip for the blade stop.

seems simple enough to me.

again sorry if someone else mentioned this already but I couldn't read through all the pages.

[Barmic Rin]

After getting bored of the back & forth 'comments', I think I see what you're doing.

As my understanding goes, you want a crystal chamber or something similar, that has the diffusion of the standard blade, right?

Why not do this?:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t78/barmic_rin/ollysaber-1.jpg

Just stick a bit of blade in the crystal chamber, with a set screw in place drilled into the stubby blade piece. That way, you don't need to protect the optics with a blade stop, and it's kept in place. Plus, the screw could help to give character!!!

Just my 2 cents...

[Darth Abominor]

After getting bored of the back & forth 'comments', I think I see what you're doing.

As my understanding goes, you want a crystal chamber or something similar, that has the diffusion of the standard blade, right?

Why not do this?:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t78/barmic_rin/ollysaber-1.jpg

Just stick a bit of blade in the crystal chamber, with a set screw in place drilled into the stubby blade piece. That way, you don't need to protect the optics with a blade stop, and it's kept in place. Plus, the screw could help to give character!!!

Just my 2 cents...

That is close to what I was thinking, though I wanted a bit of a longer area of the 'chamber'. A small section of blade, cut to fit the chamber was another option I was considering, so long as I could match the LED optic color and brightness as close as possible. Well done on a mockup.

[Barmic Rin]

That's actually how i'm updating a friends hilt!

That crystal chamber has 2" length, so not too bad. I'm sure Tim could make up on for you as a custom piece. You could just order 2 identical LED's & a slightly longer blade, cut off the excess & stick it in the chamber, & that's it! Both pieces will match up in glare & colour!!

I'd say the small blade section is the best option for how I envision your saber from the description...

[TimeRender]

I'm glad to see that you're considering what I suggested, using a second LED and not mounting the blade deeper in the hilt. I think you will find this works much better.

[Barmic Rin]

And all done with nice words & pretty pictures..... I've grown as a person... ;P

[Darth Abominor]

If we have two of the same LEDs in the hilt, one as a blade light, one as a chamber light, how do we avoid the heat in the chamber as that LED normally, in the blade optics atleast, has a heatsink?

[TimeRender]

Two ways. Either use a cheaper, less bright LED for the window, which could still seem as bright as the blade since it is illuminating a much smaller area, or simply mount the second LED star on a heatsink as well. That would actually be the easiest solution, and the brightest.

Edit: And if your secondary LED is too bright, you could always either dim it with a resistor or make the window PC a little more opaque. Whatever works for the style you want.

[Kal El Rah]

You could mount both leds to the same heatsink facing opposite directions. Even simpler.

[Darth Abominor]

I have some experimenting to do with LEDs soon it seems. :rolleyes:

How would 2 of the same LuxIII eat up the power of the batteries if both are using a single resistor each, built to the needed res?

[TimeRender]

I wouldn't suggest mounting both to the same heatsink, since you will then be making the heatsink do twice the work. Also, the bottom side of Tim's heatsinks are not made to mount anything to. His heatsinks are cheap, buy a second one and just screw it in between the window section and the grip section.

[Darth Abominor]

Almost time for me to find a local NYC saber smith and get on this idea.. another skilled pair of hands would help I bet.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

I also differ from LDM's point of view in that I only appreciate innovations when they could potentially advance the knowledgebase of the community. Innovations that could only yield inferior results seem to me to be a waste of effort and money. If it can be reasonably foreseen that a line of experimentation will not advance the hobby, I feel that it should be abandoned.



TR, I did not say that I encourage frivolity and as a matter of fact I never post an innovation (reverse sound, crystal pommel, ramping LEDs, etc.) unless they advance the hobby as a whole. I was simply encouraging him to experiment and be self reliant rather than harassing the hell out of you! I think that you and I actually agree on this point.;) He is, in fact, now asking about how to construct a BASIC LED module that many of us use all the time and has indeed been posted MANY times by Jay-Gon and myself to name a few.

Allow me to spoon feed for a second...

This is what you need to build:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Do%20Clo%20QV%20redone%20by%20LDM/100_0511.jpg

it is the module in the lower right hand corner of the pix, and yes, it will effectively protect the optics from the blade.

Here is another one:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Saber%20Repairs/Wolfen%20at%20Fxsabers/100_0965.jpg

Is it safe to say that everyone gets it now?;)

[Darth Abominor]

That was the idea we were covering, yes. TY LDM for the direct pics of such a build. I am researching the options for x2 LEDs on the same Heatsink as we speak and that should give alot more freedom to this build.