MHS versus Sink Tube Hardware Saber for first timer?

[bullvinne]

Ok so I am planning to build my first lightsaber and I am trying to find out which would be better for a first timer. I was planning originally to build the Style VIII saber from The Big Yellow Box website and after looking at parts, it seems that I might be in over my head trying to do something like that.

I have seen Novastar's basic sinktube how-to on youtube but I am hoping for something not so plain looking even though it is my first time.

So I would like opinions from you all, which would be best for a first-timer. Trying to go all out and do the Style VIII from Big Yellow Box (probably about 100 bucks for everything), Novastar's basic sinktube saber (costs about 70ish bucks for everything), or save up and get a full MHS saber (Costs about 120-170 Bucks for everything)?

[JamoUp]

For a first build you should definitely do an MHS based saber. It is easy. It looks cool. And depending on how many pieces you use it is not very expensive. Take a look in the gallery and see what others have done, then play around with the MHS builder (link on store main site). Then go nuts!

[bullvinne]

I have looked at the gallery and played around with the MS Builder. For a basic saber it will cost me about 65 bucks, 20 bucks for a light kit and 30 for a battle blade so about 105 give or take for a starting MHS saber.

I like how the MHS sabers work but I dont like the highly polished chrome look that comes on the peices. IMO, a lightsaber should be somewhat beaten up and weathered from years of battle and MHS sabers are too clean. Plus I was hoping for other colors/paint then the standard chrome metal look.

Would it be hard to do this to a MHS saber for a newbie? I dont really have any experience with this stuff. I understand the basics of putting the MHS saber together, and how to do the electronics LED kit, but I wouldnt know what to do to begin customizing a MHS saber.

[Vazan Maceu]

I like how the MHS sabers work but I dont like the highly polished chrome look that comes on the peices. IMO, a lightsaber should be somewhat beaten up and weathered from years of battle and MHS sabers are too clean. Plus I was hoping for other colors/paint then the standard chrome metal look.

Would it be hard to do this to a MHS saber?

There are tips about weathering hilts around here, plus you can also have your parts powder coated or media blasted in a variety of colors directly from the shop.

[vargose]

Personally, I like using sink tubes. You have to be carefull when using the big yellow box designs though. They weren't made with LED sabers in mind. You'd have to alter the design with that in mind.

[Jedi-Loreen]

The MHS pieces are not polished, if you want them shiny, you have to do that yourself.

[bullvinne]

The MHS pieces are not polished, if you want them shiny, you have to do that yourself.

Oh...then I guess most of the people in the Gallery liked thiers highly polished. Thank you for letting me know Jedi-Loreen!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You could also do a combination of MHS and sinktube, like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Chrome%20Saber%2014/100_4067.jpg
They aren't that expensive to build and can easily accomodate a soundboard.

[bullvinne]

Is that a 1.5" or 1.25" Sink tube?

[cardcollector]

NO NO NO!!!!:D

Do A sinktube saber first!!!

For one thing they are a lot cheaper and if you mess up threading your screw holes it is not that big a deal. $14.00 for two new sinktubes (if you are doing an overlay version) as opposed to $15-20 dollars for a new MHS piece.

[Sairon]

NO NO NO!!!!:D

Do A sinktube saber first!!!

For one thing they are a lot cheaper and if you mess up threading your screw holes it is not that big a deal. $14.00 for two new sinktubes (if you are doing an overlay version) as opposed to $15-20 dollars for a new MHS piece.


A sinktube saber is great to start with and it's cheap, but by mixing MHS and sniktube you get a kick arse saber, even though this may put you in the hundred dollar range.

[cardcollector]

Granted, and you are correct.
BUT
I would never reccomend doing a MHS saber for your first saber because of the cost and the chance the begginer might mess up. That's A LOT of money spent to not have any experience.

[JediMasterDak]

I think you should start with MHS/sink tube
:D:D:D:D:D

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Is that a 1.5" or 1.25" Sink tube?
that is a 1.5" sink drain slip extension. It is 22ga. and the MHS sinktube adaptor slips right in, and attaches with 4 8-32 screws, two on either side. The piece allows you to attach any of the MHS parts to any sinktube, as long as it is 22ga. to see how I built it, look here:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=17798.0

[bullvinne]

Jay-Gon, those are some mighty fine looking sabers you make. What kind of dremel is needed to cut sink-tube? My friend had a Dremel Stylus I think he calls it and it has variable 10 speed on it, would that be sufficient to cut through Sink pipe?

Also to cut whole sections of pipe off without one of the rotary saws you were using, would a Hacksaw work?

I dont have much tools starting out but I would like to try and turn out some beautiful work like you do.

[cardcollector]

To cut sinktube wit a dremel you need the following
1.) A dremel that reaches 2,000 RPM's
2.) Cutting disks. I like the thinner ones
3.) Grinder bit (I prefer the sphere shaped one)
4.) not really necessarry but I use the Ez Lock system. It speeds things up considerably

Some other things you may want are...
-Sanding disks 100-220 grit (if you don't want to do it by hand)
-The "FlexShaft" attachment. It makes it easier to make precision cuts.

I love my dremel tool!!! Hope you have fun cutting you sinktube!

[bullvinne]

Thanks for the heads up CardCollector!!!

[Rhyen Skytracker]

My first few sabers were sink tube sabers that I modified from the big yellow box. But, that was before I knew about this site. You can get a MHS hilt with the hole already in it for the switch, which would cut down on errors. After I did find out about the MHS system, I like to combine the MHS with sink tube overlays. Tim has really thought out the MHS system to make it very modular and very easy to make sabers fast. Just look through the gallery to get some ideas. I personally think that MHS is the best way to go for beginers, but that is just me. Good luck no matter which way you go.

[bullvinne]

Yes the MHS system seems very well thought out. After looking at Jay-Gon's work, I think I will somehow combine Sinktube and MHS for my first saber.

The first one might not look as good as his work but it does seem like the best of both worlds, plus I really want to get into working with Sink-tubes and the Dremel for overlays anyway.

I also like the idea of using the 1.5" sinktube in the back as it allows for more room for the electronics while the MHS parts in the front really add durability for dueling.

Thanks Jay-Gon for the inspiration!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yes the MHS system seems very well thought out. After looking at Jay-Gon's work, I think I will somehow combine Sinktube and MHS for my first saber.

The first one might not look as good as his work but it does seem like the best of both worlds, plus I really want to get into working with Sink-tubes and the Dremel for overlays anyway.

I also like the idea of using the 1.5" sinktube in the back as it allows for more room for the electronics while the MHS parts in the front really add durability for dueling.

Thanks Jay-Gon for the inspiration!

You're welcome! Just to add to Carcollector, I usually use the reinforced cutting discs...I've had too many of the thinner ones break and go flying to use those any more. I have a craftsman rotary tool, but it's basically the same thing as a dremel. It can use all of the dremel attachments as well. It has 6 speeds and has done the job very well so far. I do use a metal cutting blade in a compound mitre saw, but a hacksaw in a mitre box will also work, or if you're good at cutting along a line, just the hacksaw is fine, too.

[bullvinne]

Oh sweet, I think I remember how to make a Mitre box from way back in shop class many years ago...this will be fun ;)

[cardcollector]

Saber building generally is fun...:rolleyes:

[Thaxos]

Saber building generally is fun...:rolleyes:

Oh yeah, unless you burn your hand soldering, short out a component, fry a component, cut yourself on a tool, make a mistake drilling/cutting on the saber, etc.

Haha nah, you take a couple seconds to think through what you're doing and you'll have no problems at all.
Just a note on the drilling and tapping, either order it from Tim to be done, or make darned sure you have it ligned up, at the right angle and clamped well.

[Sairon]

Just a note on the drilling and tapping, either order it from Tim to be done, or make darned sure you have it ligned up, at the right angle and clamped well.

Or use a drill press and a clamp.

[Jedi-Loreen]

And make sure you have your heat sink installed between your MHS blade holder and adapter or whatever you're screwing it into, before you mark where you want to drill for the blade retention screw, that will affect the alignment of the parts.

[bullvinne]

sounds like sound advice Jedi-Loreen, Thanks!!!

[Thaxos]

And make sure you have your heat sink installed between your MHS blade holder and adapter or whatever you're screwing it into, before you mark where you want to drill for the blade retention screw, that will affect the alignment of the parts.

Teflon tape solves said problem, alignment is normal again.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Teflon tape solves said problem, alignment is normal again.

That depends on how far off he drills his hole....trust me, I know from experience! ;)

[bullvinne]

See now y'all are trying to scare me off before I even start my first one! lol kidding :rolleyes:

[strengthofrage]

A good tip for sink tube sabers = buy more than one sink tube ;)

Even if your dremel-fu is strong, practice is a good idea. Also, you may find that you like making shrouds from sink tubes... make a graph paper sketch/guide and line it up/tape it to your sink tube.

Since you mentioned the big yellow box, their pvc grip section ideas are cool for first sabers. PVC is easy to work with and very forgiving :)

[bullvinne]

speaking of Dremel-fu, has anyone tried adding a recessed lip to the edge of a sinktube? What I am wanting to do is add a bronze sinktube insert into a chrome sinktube that will then slide over an MHS bladeholder.

If that does not make any sense, let me know and I will attempt to make a quicky drawing of it in paint and post it.

[Sairon]

Do you mean like stacking the peices inside each other like on obi-dars enigma saber?

[bullvinne]

EDIT: ah just got a look at his saber, no that is not what I am going for. I will get a basic MS Paint drawing up and post it in a few.

EDIT2: Ok here is a quick diagram, hopefully it conveys what I mean. Let me know if you are still confused

http://i41.tinypic.com/nn9wsn.jpg

[Thaxos]

That depends on how far off he drills his hole....trust me, I know from experience! ;)

Well mine was off by about 1/8th of a turn. But I decided instead of the covertec clip and the retention screw being aligned, they be perpendicular. It worked too.

[Sairon]

EDIT: ah just got a look at his saber, no that is not what I am going for. I will get a basic MS Paint drawing up and post it in a few.

EDIT2: Ok here is a quick diagram, hopefully it conveys what I mean. Let me know if you are still confused

http://i41.tinypic.com/nn9wsn.jpg

Yeah I think it's possible, you could use some jb weld to stick the two pieces together. Only you would just cut out the windo and glue the other piece underneath, there is no need for the lip.