Zook
04-30-2009, 07:18 PM
Nothing drastic here and has probably been done before but I thought it would be neat so I did it.
Long story short I had another ROTJ hilt with the battery pack but that's it. I wanted to put it together and make a little different saber.
I bought a conversion kit, grips and K2 royal blue from the store and used a Yoda board for the conversion.
First I put tape over the old switch hole and filled it with JB Weld then cut the hole for a small switch I had...
http://mandysbabies.com/newluke/lukeswitch2.jpg
Then I cut the JB weld further to recess the switch and then JB welded the switch in (used screws first but it broke through the edges of the switch hole). Sorry no pics of that before the grips went on.
Then I polished all of it and painted part of the lower section of the hilt as well as touched up some of the other black paint with some new flat black paint.
I took one of the sections out of the battery pack (rewired it for 6 volts) and mounted the Yoda card and ran/ soldered my connections. I cut a piece of 1" PVC pipe to connect the battery pack and the blade holder then wired up the switch and LED with quick connects (with enough length to pull the battery pack out to replace the batteries). I think I will wire up a din plug later so I can just pull the pack out like the factory does but for now its easy enough to pull out and change the battery. If I decide to sell it down the road I will definitely make it where you just pull the pack out like factory.
Here is a pic of all that stuff...
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke9.jpg
I then marked the spots for the grips (matched them up with the pommel and then used a square to make a straight line) and put them on cutting the ends to match and the hole for the switch. Pics of that...
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke6.jpg
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke5.jpg
My original plan was to cut the entire piece sticking up on all the grips because I knew it would be really thick with the grips like they are but after putting them on I really liked how it looked and its not uncomfortable for me so I think I will leave it as is.
well here are the rest of the pics...
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke8.jpg
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke7.jpg
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke4.jpg
and my crappy dark room lighted pic...
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke10.jpg
Now to finish my son's saber...just gotta come up with a design I like.
edit...one thing I need to change on it is the clash sensor. At first I had it stuck nice and neat in the crease of the battery pack with double sided tape but it would take a really hard hit to make it work so I took the double sided tape off and just used regular take to the plastic thinking the double sided tape cushioned it to much. Still doesnt work well unless you hit the hilt itself. My guess is its just to low so I am going to move it up toward the blade later on...probably hot glue it to the pvc part.
Long story short I had another ROTJ hilt with the battery pack but that's it. I wanted to put it together and make a little different saber.
I bought a conversion kit, grips and K2 royal blue from the store and used a Yoda board for the conversion.
First I put tape over the old switch hole and filled it with JB Weld then cut the hole for a small switch I had...
http://mandysbabies.com/newluke/lukeswitch2.jpg
Then I cut the JB weld further to recess the switch and then JB welded the switch in (used screws first but it broke through the edges of the switch hole). Sorry no pics of that before the grips went on.
Then I polished all of it and painted part of the lower section of the hilt as well as touched up some of the other black paint with some new flat black paint.
I took one of the sections out of the battery pack (rewired it for 6 volts) and mounted the Yoda card and ran/ soldered my connections. I cut a piece of 1" PVC pipe to connect the battery pack and the blade holder then wired up the switch and LED with quick connects (with enough length to pull the battery pack out to replace the batteries). I think I will wire up a din plug later so I can just pull the pack out like the factory does but for now its easy enough to pull out and change the battery. If I decide to sell it down the road I will definitely make it where you just pull the pack out like factory.
Here is a pic of all that stuff...
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke9.jpg
I then marked the spots for the grips (matched them up with the pommel and then used a square to make a straight line) and put them on cutting the ends to match and the hole for the switch. Pics of that...
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke6.jpg
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke5.jpg
My original plan was to cut the entire piece sticking up on all the grips because I knew it would be really thick with the grips like they are but after putting them on I really liked how it looked and its not uncomfortable for me so I think I will leave it as is.
well here are the rest of the pics...
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke8.jpg
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke7.jpg
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke4.jpg
and my crappy dark room lighted pic...
http://mandysbabies.com/saber/newluke10.jpg
Now to finish my son's saber...just gotta come up with a design I like.
edit...one thing I need to change on it is the clash sensor. At first I had it stuck nice and neat in the crease of the battery pack with double sided tape but it would take a really hard hit to make it work so I took the double sided tape off and just used regular take to the plastic thinking the double sided tape cushioned it to much. Still doesnt work well unless you hit the hilt itself. My guess is its just to low so I am going to move it up toward the blade later on...probably hot glue it to the pvc part.