First timer - saber design

[Loremaster]

I'm stuck. Used the MHS and came up with the attached design. Do I need an adapter if I already have a blade holder for an LED K2 saber? (I removed the adapter for Image #2 but could not upload that image.) I am guessing not. Also, do I need the ring on the pommel to put a D-ring in or can I have holes drilled directly into the pommel? Or would a clip be better to put the saber on a belt and have ready at a moment's notice? I don't really know how that works. Could anyone advise?

How do you attach a C-ring to a pommel insert? I am guessing that I need one with an opening for a recharge port since I am totally new to the field of electronics, sabers, etc. And yes, I did read LDM's tutorial for an MHS LED saber which was very helpful.

I don't even know if this design is viable. Any comments and ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and attention to my questions.

Loremaster

[Jedi-Loreen]

*sigh*. If you don't understand how the MHS parts go together, and it looks like you don't, I suggest you do more reading. Have you read through the various LED saber building threads in the tutorial section? You should especially read LDM's tutorial.

You have 2 pommels together, they won't fit like that. And I can't tell what the MPS3 V2 is attached to. You also have a Covertec knob basically hanging off in space at the end of the second pommel, that doesn't work that way, either.

The Pommel C-clip goes inside the Pommel and holds the insert inside it.

And no, that adapter you have sticking out of blade holder won't work, that's for a sink tube.

Please go read a lot more.

Now.

[B5813]

It's been said but it looks like the very end is a pommel attached to another pomel. Also, it looks like you have an blade holder #8 slid down over choke style #7. If you want to assemble a saber in the style you've shown in your picture choose blade holder #8, MHS gear, 7 inch fluted main body, and pommel style 3 v2. The pommel doesn't have a solid end. You'll have to also get an MPS insert also found in the pommel section along with an MPS clip. The inserts vary depending on whether you want a solid bottom or one with holes allowing sound to pass through. You put the pommel insert down into the pommel and use a tool to squeeze the clip together lowering that down over the pommel insert you stuck in there. The clip locks the insert down into the pommel. Building the physical hilt is the easiest part of the job. It will take much more planning and know how to assemble the electronics. Before you commit to purchases take your time. Look around at as many pictures as you can stand and read even more. You'll save yourself a little frustration in the long run.

Also, there's no shame in asking questions but take the time first to find the answers that have likely been stated out here already. There are a tremendous amount of posts on these forums and spending some time going into them should reveal alot of answers to questions you'll have. Good luck Loremaster.

[xl97]

as pointed out.. pay attention the where the threads on in the MHS builder..

some will stick out.. some will be internal (stick in).. these are 'tips' to show how the threaded pieces fit together..

if one part has some threads ticking out..it can ONLY go into another part that has then sticking in.. make sense?

some parts do not have ANY..that means no external threads..and no internal threads either...

my suggestion is if you are in doubt of what the part looks like in real life.. or how it fits.. the text/description of the part in the MHS Builder (when you click on a part on the stage..the text in the upper left corner changes) is a DIRECT link to that part in the store.... and check it out..

[Jedi-Loreen]

i wasnt razzin newbs.... i was dissin on J LO (she said he needs to deffinatley go to LDMS tuts. after her clearly said he did...).... na i dont diss newbs... i just prefer to go and help them out. point them in the right direction. besides i havent asked a question since like forever. lol....

DJ, he edited his post, after I posted the first time, I don't think that was there when I first read it.

But I'm not perfect, I could have missed it. :rolleyes:

[xl97]

even if he did read it... the advice is still sorta valid..

go back and read them again.. sometimes after reading something several times..things can 'click'...

[Barmic Rin]

DJ Buttbag posts about J-lo missing one part of a post, but since the post was edited, they makes it null & void. Any chance we can get a restraining order/ rocket straight to sun for DJ barfbcket please moderators?

Loremaster, apologies if we seem a bit short & sharp, but as evidenced, some people have annoyed 95% of the members on here by their excessives garbage posting....
WE'RE NICE FOLK REALLY!!!!!!


B5813 has answered pretty much all your issues in his post, though you're using 3 pommels in your saber when you only need one, and you don't need the adaptor.

Without the adaptor & extra pommels, you're looking at a 10.5-11" saber, which is a comfortable length for most folks.

Please, read & re-read the guides to make sure you have it, questions are good, but have been answered previously in the guides....

[DJMoonbass]

i didnt know it was edited.... sorry. i deleted the posts.

[Loremaster]

Sorry, folks if this was a garbage post. I don't like those either, and regret if I have annoyed anyone. I have been re-reading the basic instructions, including LDM's LED MHS tutorial, over and over, and I think some of it is starting to sink in.

I have drastically simplified the saber design to one pommel, one hilt and one blade holder, eliminating the tres cool but annoying extension piece since it would not fit to the blade holder. Pommel insert #9 and a clip. Am aiming for Luxeon K2 kit but am open to a Luxeon III to start.

My mom has a soldering iron since she makes stained glass pieces, and I plan on obtaining the required tools and parts as soon as I can.

Loremaster

[Tradeliphine]

I really liked the look, its a shame that the parts dont go together like that, but yea, youll do far better to read up, and make a few more simple designs to get the basics locked in, then you could even look at getting some custom pieces or learn how to adapt them to be able to make a look like your render

[Kal El Rah]

My mom has a soldering iron since she makes stained glass pieces, and I plan on obtaining the required tools and parts as soon as I can.

Loremaster

The iron your mother has is for melting lead, 200 watts?:confused:

If so , you only need a 30 watt max, soldering pen type iron.:):cool:

[Thaxos]

Finer tips are best for electronics projects. As for solder, I'll leave you to choose between lead and lead-free. (Lead is easier to solder [lower temp] but definitely not as good for you)

[draftnbyu]

silver solder is best for circuit connections but expensive! becarefull using solder with resign core, the resign is not conductive but can make a mess. lowes sells de-natured alcohol that can be used to clean the resign off,but dont wipe acrooss the whole board. just dunk a acid brush into the alcohol and wipe only the affected area.also, a de-soldering tool is usefull. i have a PACE solder station, well worth the price. NEVER, leave iron on the traces or circuit pads to long, it will seperate them from the PCB!

[Thaxos]

silver solder is best for circuit connections but expensive! be careful using solder with resign core, the resign is not conductive but can make a mess. Lowes sells de-natured alcohol that can be used to clean the resign off,but don't wipe across the whole board. just dunk an acid brush into the alcohol and wipe only the affected area. Also, a de-soldering tool is useful. i have a PACE solder station, well worth the price. NEVER, leave iron on the traces or circuit pads to long, it will separate them from the PCB!

You're referring to rosin, correct?
In that regard, as long as you only melt as much solder as you will need, you shouldn't have a problem with excessive rosin.

[DarthHideous]

The first threads that you should...
Go to the first page of the forums. Click on "New to the saber scene? Start Here."
Read (at least) the threads "Electronics Design," "MHS Builder," and "LED sabers."
This should help you understand how the basics work and how the MHS System goes together. Also, if you want to use those sink tube adapters in future sabers, you can combine them with a custom hilt creation of your own. Ask Mom for a Dremel for Christmas with a Diamond cutting wheel for cutting metal sink tubes.

[Thaxos]

Ask Mom for a Dremel for Christmas with a Diamond cutting wheel for cutting metal sink tubes.

I don't know, sounds like Santa will have to help with that one, it's a bit expensive! :p haha, I should definitely pick one of those up at some point.

[DarthHideous]

Tell me about it. I decided to start drilling & tapping my own threads so I finally broke down and bought a drill press. Big bucks, but I will get my money's worth after building a few sabers. I think that the diamond wheels alone are $19.

[draftnbyu]

You're referring to rosin, correct?
In that regard, as long as you only melt as much solder as you will need, you shouldn't have a problem with excessive rosin.

yes,sorry but a 16 hour work day has me loopy. yeah most solder is fine, but ive had some that was very thin based rosin and kinda flowed more rosin than solder.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

One thing that can also help you is looking at alot of the sabers in the gallery. It will help you see how some of the parts look together.

[B5813]

Hey Loremaster, when you say you're eliminating the extension piece do you mean the gear section? The gear will in fact fit between the blade holder and the main hilt body. It has a male and female end. The blade holder will screw into one end of the gear and the other end of the gear will screw into the main hilt section.

[JediMasterDak]

:Good to know your learning, and reading!:):):):)
Good work!:o:o
Here's a design close to yours that would actually go together right:):):):)

[Loremaster]

Hey Loremaster, when you say you're eliminating the extension piece do you mean the gear section? The gear will in fact fit between the blade holder and the main hilt body. It has a male and female end. The blade holder will screw into one end of the gear and the other end of the gear will screw into the main hilt section.

Will it, now? That's GREAT to know!! I was so disappointed when I thought it wouldn't. It looked to me on the MHS as if it had two male ends. Well, I will add that back in immediately!

Master Dak, thanks for the encouragement and yes, that is very close to my first design #2 that wouldn't upload for you folks to see. If you don't mind, I will take that drawing as a template.

I will check with Mom about her soldering iron, but I think you're right...need a finer tip for electronics work. Back to reading!

Loremaster

[xl97]

if you look at the MHS builder there are trheads on one end sticking OUT.. on the other side/end the threads go IN.. not protruding from the part.. this indicates threads are INTERNAL and not EXTERNAL..

[B5813]

It will work, Loremaster. I'm doing a build now and using the gear section in between the blade holder and ribbed section.

[Barmic Rin]

. If you don't mind, I will take that drawing as a template.

Loremaster

It's not his design to give, Strydur runs the shop, the rest of us just throw money his way. I would have stuck the design up too, but I can't always get the builder pics to save on my laptop.... weird....

Also, don't see this topic as a spanking, you've read & re-read, so all is good in the world thus far.

I really like the design & was actually thinking of using that bladeholder/gear combo on a friends saber when I do this big order.
Good luck dude!

[Loremaster]

OK, I am dumb as mud...forgot to rotate the gear on the MHS. Duh! Yes, it will work fine! I was delighted when I read your posts on the matter, and have made up the parts list and cost for this saber. Expensive little puppy, this, but I have been waiting almost 10 years to make one so I want everything to be perfect, natch.

And good luck to you all too!

Loremaster

[B5813]

alright LM... now get busy