Flashlight conversion kits and the "IQ" switch

[Storm Sunfire]

I have noticed a lot of kits for sale in the hardware store to convert your standard maglight into an LED flashlight. Among these is a kit with a switch that has a red blinking LED inside of a guarded rubber button. The switch looks cool so I got one thinking I would use it in my lightsaber. Once I connected the positive and negative, It turned my saber on, then off, then on, off, on, etc. I realised that I don't know what kind of switch it is! LOL.
It is incompatable with the hasbro board, but maybe I will be able to use it for a future saber that has the ultrasound card or *gasp* crystal focus.

The questions are:

First: what kind of switch is it? (Duh)
Second: what board would it be compatible with?
Third: would it even be worth it on a high end board like CF? or would it be better to have another switch?

[Jase Kala Maris]

Post a pick of it.

Post a pick of the wireing.

I have one stupid question also is it just going on and off or is it doing S.O.S.
---sometimes flashlights have that option and the driver cards are very small just curious about if the switch assembley has a card in it... the cards I've seen are almost that small.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

It will be a latching switch if it is for a flashlight.

[Storm Sunfire]

Here's a pitcher of the switcher...


It is meant to replace the endcap of a maglight...

[Ideal]

yeah, like LDM said, all flashlights use a latching switch. in fact, you will probably be able to hear it click on/off when you press the button

so no, you cant use it with a hasbro board, but to the best of my knowledge, both the CF boards and the US boards can be configured to use a latching switch

[Kant Lavar]

yeah, like LDM said, all flashlights use a latching switch. in fact, you will probably be able to hear it click on/off when you press the button

so no, you cant use it with a hasbro board, but to the best of my knowledge, both the CF boards and the US boards can be configured to use a latching switch

Hate to say it, but that is bad info. UltraSound requires a momentary switch. Right now, a latching switch is good only for is direct drive sabers and CF. (Well, you could wire the latching switch to be a main power switch wired through the battery pack itself, and then have a momentary switch wired to the US board, but I don't know why you'd want to bother, personally...)

[Tradeliphine]

also need latching for mr boards, dont leave out the staples man

[Ideal]

dont worry, next time i just wont bother

[xl97]

Hate to say it, but that is bad info. UltraSound requires a momentary switch. Right now, a latching switch is good only for is direct drive sabers and CF. (Well, you could wire the latching switch to be a main power switch wired through the battery pack itself, and then have a momentary switch wired to the US board, but I don't know why you'd want to bother, personally...)


huh?

maybe I dont understand?

but dont MR boards take latching switches?

dont corbin latching version boards take a latching switch?

doesnt the plecter dimmer (latching) take a latching switch?

what about the 616 boards? dont they also require a latching switch?

Ive never owned a CF board..but I thought they could use a momentary switch??

IMHO..there are MORE boards that take latching over momentary...no?

US board aside..the only board I can think of that takes a momentary is a Hasbro?? no?

thanks

[Storm Sunfire]

Hate to say it, but that is bad info. UltraSound requires a momentary switch. Right now, a latching switch is good only for is direct drive sabers and CF. (Well, you could wire the latching switch to be a main power switch wired through the battery pack itself, and then have a momentary switch wired to the US board, but I don't know why you'd want to bother, personally...)

You know, that's not a bad idea! I have been thinking about having a low profile "Hidden Switch" design so that only the owner of the blade could actually turn it on. I think Novastar has a video with XWingband where they have a saber that does that, but they don't explain how they did it. They leave it a mystery. That was kind of what I was thinking they must have done.

On a different note, My three year old threw a lightsaber at my beautiful HD LCD TV and cracked the screen. Nothing can be done to repair it that doesn't cost more than buying a new TV, so I bought a new TV and tore apart the old one. I now have a crapload of momentary switches and wire of all colors. I also have a huge sheet of durable plastic type plexi stuff to use as my work surface. (lightsaber practice no longer takes place in the living room...)

[Kal El Rah]

You know, that's not a bad idea! I have been thinking about having a low profile "Hidden Switch" design so that only the owner of the blade could actually turn it on. I think Novastar has a video with XWingband where they have a saber that does that, but they don't explain how they did it. They leave it a mystery. That was kind of what I was thinking they must have done.

On a different note, My three year old threw a lightsaber at my beautiful HD LCD TV and cracked the screen. Nothing can be done to repair it that doesn't cost more than buying a new TV, so I bought a new TV and tore apart the old one. I now have a crapload of momentary switches and wire of all colors. I also have a huge sheet of durable plastic type plexi stuff to use as my work surface. (lightsaber practice no longer takes place in the living room...)

Storm sorry to read about the T.V..

A hint I can give you about the video is that a N/O type reed switch and a magnet were used to enable/disable the momentary switch.

[Novastar]

...Ive never owned a CF board..but I thought they could use a momentary switch??
CF can support both latching & momentary switches.


IMHO..there are MORE boards that take latching over momentary...no?
It depends on the board & its purpose(s).

[Kant Lavar]

In my own defense, I was just addressing the US and CF. Granted, MR, Joe Jedi, Corbin, et cetera all can/must use latching switches.

I was just mostly focusing on what Ideal said in his post. Ideal, I apologize if you were offended, and please know that what I said was more along the lines of friendly help, making sure that the right information go out there, not me going "grr you're wrong, you suck!" Again, if I did offend, I apologize.