Mr soundboard help

[Hgwells68]

Hi Guys,

Sorry to be a pain, I looked and looked and could not find anything about it.

I have some MR hilts, broken blades, I'd like to use the soundboards from them for some custom LED hilts.

Is there a tutorial or thread on here that explains how to take out and use both the EL version, and LED version soundboards from MR hilts and use them?

I apologize again, and I appreciate any help with this.

Thank you.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Those would be called the MR coversion tutorials...they show you how to dismantle the MR FX sabers to convert them to luxeon. Just follow them, they show you how to get to the electronics.

[Darth Siggious]

You're in the right place. The threads in this section will show you how to get to the "guts" section of the MR hilt.

Once you get to that black plastic piece that houses the soundboard, you have to take it apart - most of them are glued together along the sides of the black plastic.

From here, I've used everything from hot water and sandpaper to a screwdriver to just pry the plastic apart, but any way you see fit will work.

Once the black plastic is cracked open, you can then see the soundboard screwed down to the plastic. For the newer models, you'll see a whole bunch of colored wires that go from the soundboard and up through the hilt towards the blade. Disconnect the white connector that these colored wires are coming from (there should be pictures of this in the tutorials) and then you can unscrew the soundboard from the plastic and voila! that part's done.

Follow the wires up to the blade and slide the blade out (it's a little different for each particular model, but the MR to Luxeon conversions should show what needs to be done for each model). Those wires are attached to the clash sensor and the LED strip in the blade. In order to use those leads and the clash sensor for an LED saber, you need to cut them from the LED strip in the blade (remember, you need the clash sensor, so don't forget it in there or cut the wires between the board and clash sensor).

Then follow the instructions in the tutorials again for how to wire that board to a Luxeon LED and you should be all set.

EDIT: I write too much and didn't see Jay-Gon post - but yeah, it's all right here in this sub-forum.

[Hgwells68]

Thank you so much guys, I appreciate it.

[Hgwells68]

Hey Guys

I went through all the tutorials, I didn't really find what I was looking for but I did find some things that helped.

I am not looking to convert a MR hilt to a luxeon, I am looking to use the circular soundboard in a custom hilt..

I have the batter pack and speaker all in the assembly. I removed the driver for the lights, and just have the soundboard, battery pack and speaker, When the yellow and blue wire make contact, the sound activates, motion sensor and clash sensor work..

I was just curious to know what wires work the light.. or can I just run a line from the power to the LED directly..

thats all..

[Hgwells68]

I currently have with working sound boards and no blades

Anakin AOTC (2)
LUKE ROTJ
LUKE ESB
VADER ANH
MACE WINDU


So I am going to rebuild the Mace with the Mace kit I ordered, and use the soundboards from the other hilts.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Search function---> anakin AOTC luxeon conversion...6 seconds to find...;)

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Tutorials/Wiring%20Diagrams/anakin_aotc_luxeon3.png

[Hgwells68]

Jeez i'm such a newbie... thank you so much for this!

[Matt Thorn]

As the person who made that wiring diagram, I should tell you that I just abandoned it a couple of days ago, and am in the process of replacing the round Anakin AOTC soundboard with one from an Anakin ROTS. The AOTC board simply does not give nearly enough power to the speaker. (I tried two different speakers.) It is absurdly quiet. And when the batteries run down, the board starts sounding like radio static interrupted occasionally by blurps and blips. I had been warned by a couple of veteran sabersmiths that the AOTC board was not worth the trouble, but stubbornly went ahead with the project, determined to make that cool little disk work. Well, the veterans were right. It just wasn't worth the effort. My advice: forgo the Anakin AOTC and go with one of your Luke or Mace boards.

[Kal El Rah]

Luke , Mace or 616, anything is better than the stock AOTC Board.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

As the person who made that wiring diagram, I should tell you that I just abandoned it a couple of days ago, and am in the process of replacing the round Anakin AOTC soundboard with one from an Anakin ROTS. The AOTC board simply does not give nearly enough power to the speaker. (I tried two different speakers.) It is absurdly quiet. And when the batteries run down, the board starts sounding like radio static interrupted occasionally by blurps and blips. I had been warned by a couple of veteran sabersmiths that the AOTC board was not worth the trouble, but stubbornly went ahead with the project, determined to make that cool little disk work. Well, the veterans were right. It just wasn't worth the effort. My advice: forgo the Anakin AOTC and go with one of your Luke or Mace boards.

Ahhhh, listen to Matt you should...from his n00bisms you can learn!

[Hgwells68]

Hey guys,

Thanks...I do realize the soundboard is of the weaker sound... I have used a couple of Hasbro boards (from the cheaper sabers) and they sound better, I dont really like the "swoosh" sound...

I do like the sound in my LUKE ROTJ hilt...


what is the 616 board?

I have also used the Cree LED I should take some pix, the hilts look really good, and my blade is only milled and sanded and looks incredible.

I am waiting for a few supplies to come from here... one being the "Corbin style blade"... is that a good blade?

[Darth Siggious]

The 616 board is the soundboard from the Force FX Construction Kit. Also referred to as a Joe Jedi.

It's called the 616 because the part number for the saber is SW-616.

And, it's actually got both the Jedi soundbank and the Sith soundbank on it (you can select between the two via a switch on the board). There are actually 3 selections, but 2 of them are the same Jedi sound, reason being that when you use the switch in the Force FX Construction saber, it selects between a red blade with Sith sounds, green with Jedi sounds and blue with the Jedi sounds.

But you can use it with any color LED you want, it doesn't have to be a RGB.

And this is the soundboard that I used in my Anakin AOTC conversion, because the AOTC soundboard is pretty bad. So it's kinda cool, a blue saber with the Sith sounds.

[Hgwells68]

Very cool...
I never purchased one of those FX sabers...

I have heard some good sound boards out there.

My Fav saber sounds is from the original trilogy... the grinding clash sound is so cool...

I have been trying to find a soundboard that really has great samples of the real sounds... and a really good motion sensitivity with different pitches, so far no luck...

[Kal El Rah]

Very cool...
I never purchased one of those FX sabers...

I have heard some good sound boards out there.

My Fav saber sounds is from the original trilogy... the grinding clash sound is so cool...

I have been trying to find a soundboard that really has great samples of the real sounds... and a really good motion sensitivity with different pitches, so far no luck...

Your last sentence can be answered easily, US 2.1 or CFSC 4.x the only 2 tailorable boards out there.

Of coarse when they are available...................................

[Matt Thorn]

Your last sentence can be answered easily, US 2.1 or CFSC 4.x the only 2 tailorable boards out there.

Of coarse when they are available...................................

Since Hgwells68 didn't recognize "616" he might not recognize those abbreviations, either. As someone who was a n00b until recently (and still is, in many ways), I think we should all be a bit more cautious about using abbreviations and nicknames on the boards, particularly since the search engine won't search for strings less than four characters long (such as "616" or "US"). So, just to clarify, "US 2.1" refers to the "UltraSound 2.1" sound board that is temporarily out of stock here (but coming soon), and "CFSC" refers to the extraordinarily configurable Crystal Focus Sound Boards handmade by our French friend, Erv. The latter is extremely hard to come by (since Erv produces them in small batches when he has time and sells them for a quarter of what a lot of us would pay for them :cool:), whereas the former, while a great product that can be easily configured for different LED setups, does not have configurable sound. In any event, neither are available at the moment, and since you already have two great Jedi boards (Anakin Return of the Sith and Mace Windu), there's no reason to spend money and time searching for something else. It's just the Anakin Attack of the Clones board that you should avoid.

[wallflores1469@aol.com]

For someone who doesn't know a lot you are certainly getting the right idea. I just gutted my vader hasbro need the sound, listen to LDM he knows as well as matt.I took everything out of my vader in like ten minutes with the tutorials here.
Hey guys,

Thanks...I do realize the soundboard is of the weaker sound... I have used a couple of Hasbro boards (from the cheaper sabers) and they sound better, I dont really like the "swoosh" sound...

I do like the sound in my LUKE ROTJ hilt...


what is the 616 board?

I have also used the Cree LED I should take some pix, the hilts look really good, and my blade is only milled and sanded and looks incredible.

I am waiting for a few supplies to come from here... one being the "Corbin style blade"... is that a good blade?