Cree Xre vs. Luxeon III?

[ziongraffix]

Anyone have experience w/ the Cree xre? (dumb question probably) Brighter than Lux III? Pros.... Cons??? There is a guy on ebay (im sure posts here) selling custom sabers w/ this type of LED.

Thanks for your time!!

[Ideal]

i saw that too, claimed that it was way brighter than anything a Lux could do

[LordCyric]

There are several peeps on here that like to use the Cree LEDs. I'm sure one of them will chime in soon enough.

[vargose]

airsoftmode knows quite a bit on the subject. Here's how I understand it.

Blue Cree XR-E is brighter than Lux III and Seoul P4 blue

Green Cree XR-E is brighter than Lux III Green but about the Same as the Seoul P4 and Lux K2.

I use the Seoul P4 green, which I love.

Keep in mind the Blue and Green XR-E are rated at 700mA. So they drain the batteries slower than most. Rhyen Skytracker likes to use them with the cheap hasbro boards, because they can run on less current and still be bright.

They can be overdriven at 1000mA for more brightness.

For White I use the Seoul P4. The Cree XR-E White bin R2 is about the same brightness though.

So here is my preference
Blue: Cree XR-E
Green: Seoul P4
White: Seoul P4

[DJMoonbass]

can i easily swap my blue Lux 111 from my MR Obi wan and Anikin ROTS ultrasabers conversions for one of these LEDs? or should i just go to a P4?

[vargose]

can i easily swap my blue Lux 111 from my MR Obi wan and Anikin ROTS ultrasabers conversions for one of these LEDs? or should i just go to a P4?

yeah. That should be just fine.

[DJMoonbass]

will the red Cree xre easily swap in my vader? so like no new resistors. just disasamble and add the new LED? also i could use a thread URL on disasambling the lightsabers.

[bubbalew]

Look Here

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?f=15

[vargose]

will the red Cree xre easily swap in my vader? so like no new resistors. just disasamble and add the new LED? also i could use a thread URL on disasambling the lightsabers.

As far as I know there isn't a red Cree XR-E. I'd stick with the lux III red. You'd be hard press to find a brighter red LED (at least a practical one). A Seoul P4 red might work well, because its rated at 800mA. People run them at 1000mA without any trouble.

You should really invest in a multimeter. So you can find out what current your MR boards are spitting out. Then you'll know whether you need a resistor or not.

Your output current from the MR board will vary depending on the voltage of your battery pack.

[DJMoonbass]

ill just stick with the RED lux three in the vader in swap for a blue P4 in my anakin and obi. those are brighter than lux 3. i might just buy a multimeter in the summer. and i am never using an MR board again. to much hassle.

[vargose]

ill just stick with the RED lux three in the vader in swap for a blue P4 in my anakin and obi. those are brighter than lux 3. i might just buy a multimeter in the summer. and i am never using an MR board again. to much hassle.

No. Don't give up on a perfectly good board. In straight conversions you can easily run an LED straight off the board, no need for resistors or anything. Sure it might not fully power it, but its close enough that you won't notice.

In a custom saber, if you have a higher voltage it will increase the current the board outputs. If the current gets to high you can just throw a buckpuck in between the board and the LED.

Its simple.

[DJMoonbass]

point. okay. but ultrasound is better. as long as does the clash flash. im anxious to see how the P4 will compare to the Lux III blue in person. Can i just swap easily with a blue Cree XRe?*

[Kal El Rah]

point. okay. but ultrasound is better. as long as does the clash flash. im anxious to see how the P4 will compare to the Lux III blue in person. Can i just swap easily with a blue Cree XRe?*


It all depends on the current and voltage requirements, but it can be done.

[DJMoonbass]

i was talkin just swap my blue Lux III with the cree. no relays or nuttin just trade the LEDs no what im sayin? it works with a P4....

[Novastar]

...You should really invest in a multimeter. So you can find out what current your MR boards are spitting out. Then you'll know whether you need a resistor or not.

Your output current from the MR board will vary depending on the voltage of your battery pack.It is true that he should get an MM... but... *most* stock MRFX boards (not including the 616) output around 800-950mA, even if you throw 4.5v to 6v at them. You might get "lucky" and see one spit out 1A or a bit more... but I think it'd be pretty rare.

Pretty much anytime you want to use >1A to light an LED while also using an MR board... it's time to do some relay work or two circuits or some other way to drive the LED. :)

[vargose]

Thanks Novastar

[DJMoonbass]

i get that totally. makes sense. im just going to hook up the P4 to the MRs for now. and then update my others ultrafx sabers with blue P4s. pretty easy. ill look into more electronic possibilities my senior year. ill be making the kraytos blades.

[Sairon]

Deppending on the colour of the led says everything. P4 white is 240 lumins, xre is 225, and lux 3 is way under that.

[ziongraffix]

It is true that he should get an MM... but... *most* stock MRFX boards (not including the 616) output around 800-950mA, even if you throw 4.5v to 6v at them. You might get "lucky" and see one spit out 1A or a bit more... but I think it'd be pretty rare.

Pretty much anytime you want to use >1A to light an LED while also using an MR board... it's time to do some relay work or two circuits or some other way to drive the LED. :)

I am curious to know if you have any experience w/ the Cre type LEDs.. And what is your opinion of them as far as practicality for a saber vs the Lux III and other more commonly used LEDs.
Thanks

[vargose]

I am curious to know if you have any experience w/ the Cre type LEDs.. And what is your opinion of them as far as practicality for a saber vs the Lux III and other more commonly used LEDs.
Thanks

On the first page of this thread, the information you seek is.

But I'll reiterate

The Cree XR-E has similar power requirements to the lux III and Seoul P4. The Cree XR-E only comes in Blue, Green, and White. All of which are brighter than the lux III. The Seoul P4 colors are comparable in all three. Try a few and see how you like them.

airsoftmode uses Cree's alot, you could checkout the posts of his sabers

[DizzyKungFu]

I hooked up a Cree XR-E blue once to try it out. I compared it side-by-side to a K2 blue (this was a while ago, and I never took any pictures... sorry!). My impression was that the Cree was of comparable brightness to the K2 but the Cree blue also had a paler/whiter color... almost closer to the cyan look. I didn't care for the look of it, but for some people that might be a plus.

[DJMoonbass]

did you get the bin number on the xre you used? also try a blue P4 and see if you like it better...