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Rhyen Skytracker
03-16-2009, 09:12 PM
Ok, here it is. The tutorial for wiring the economy version of the hasbro toy sound card. In this setup I am using the 4 AAA battery pack as the power source. First of all, I have had great results using a green or blue Cree LED and a Red P4 or Lux I (yes you heard me right, a Lux I), the card will deliver bright even blades with these LEDs. I haven't tried the blue or green P4 with it but if the red works the blue and green should. I have added text to the pictures to explain the process in each picture. Here is part 1.

EDIT: In case you can't get these less expensive sabers, ($5.96 - $10) you can use the hasbro force action sabers. They wire the same way except you don't have to make the "Y" splice and the clash sensor is already mounted to the board. Be careful which ones you get as some of them don't have all the sounds. Stay away from the ones with extra features like the color changing or the forrce feedback. Here is a list of known ones that have all the sounds. From the Clone Wars Force Action Series: Anakin (without the color change), Obi-Wan (without the force feel) and the Darth Vader saber that is usually setting on the shelf with the Anakin and Obi-Wan. Feel free to ask me about any other ones you may run across.

Rhyen Skytracker
03-16-2009, 09:16 PM
Here is part 2

Rhyen Skytracker
03-16-2009, 09:16 PM
Here is part 3. (The last picture)

Kal El Rah
03-16-2009, 09:23 PM
Nice quick tute there Rhyen:p

Jedi-Loreen
03-16-2009, 09:27 PM
Nice work, Rhyen.

That should help a lot of people who want an economic sound solution for their sabers. :D

Novastar
03-16-2009, 10:06 PM
Excellent, Rhyen!

And although I've never bothered/liked Hasbro boards... if I ever want to go super-inexpensive for sound... I can't think of any other tutorial I'd rather use for reference!


EDIT: Oops, hey... this should go under "tutorials" as well! It's relevant to both, but... much better under tuts. :D

Lord Dottore Matto
03-16-2009, 10:13 PM
Rhyen! Nice to see you sharing the love. This is a very nice tutorial, kudos!:mrgreen:

LordCyric
03-16-2009, 10:15 PM
this is Great... we should move this to the A to Z tuts IMO!

Caine Drathul
03-16-2009, 11:57 PM
That is EXACTLY what I was looking for in a tutorial. Thank you very much for posting this! :)

Rhyen Skytracker
03-17-2009, 04:05 AM
Thanks everyone. Sorry it took so long for me to make it. If someone wants to move it to a different location and sticky it, it is fine with me.

vargose
03-17-2009, 08:21 AM
Great tutorial. Have you tried a Seoul P4 Red? I was thinking that might fair well with a hasbro board.

cardcollector
03-17-2009, 08:31 AM
Hey Great tutorial! this should save at least five new question threads...

Another way you could house the soundboard, sensor etc. is by taking a film canister and putting all the stuff in it.
That way if you have kids (or ciblings)
they can play with the hasbro saber 'till you finish the real one!!!:D

$tarkiller
03-17-2009, 08:53 AM
Good stuff, Rhyen! I like how you used some of the old hasbro blade for the housing for the sensors and board. Nice Work.

Rhyen Skytracker
03-17-2009, 11:59 AM
Great tutorial. Have you tried a Seoul P4 Red? I was thinking that might fair well with a hasbro board.

I have some on order, I will try them when they come in. I have 10 of these economy sabers left.

Gin Malinko
03-17-2009, 02:01 PM
thanks for posting this Rhyen, saved me the time of asking someone how to do it lol. but one quick question, you still have to resister/puck the led correct?

Rhyen Skytracker
03-17-2009, 02:31 PM
I direct drive the LEDs straight from the card. The voltage is a little higher than the recommended forward voltage of the LED but the current is lower and the current is what you really have to be concerned about. I know some people who have been using sabers with this same set up for almost 6 months and they haven't had any problems with the LEDs. They use them all the time for fighting too.

DDanDevious
03-17-2009, 02:34 PM
this is awesome... I actually just bought a hasbro and gutted it to use in my curved saber... it works great but this would have saved me a good bit of time!! Excellent tutorial sir.

DDD

Rhyen Skytracker
03-18-2009, 07:03 AM
I have updated the first post on this thread to include a list of other toy hasbro lightsabers that have all the sounds and this turorial will work for those too, with a little less work.

Obi-Ben
03-18-2009, 07:44 AM
What do they sound like with a decent speaker?

Rhyen Skytracker
03-18-2009, 08:16 AM
They sound pretty good with the TCSS premium speaker. I have made around 50 sabers with these cards and the TCSS speaker and they sound good but not quite as good as the MR.

Darth Android
04-05-2009, 07:59 PM
Wow this is great. I was about to not put sound in my first sabre but because of you i am Thanks again!!

Rhyen Skytracker
04-05-2009, 08:16 PM
Wow this is great. I was about to not put sound in my first sabre but because of you i am Thanks again!!

Glad to help. High Quality sound cards are getting hard to come by these days and economy sound is better than no sound.

Darth Android
04-05-2009, 08:35 PM
One question is it harder to instal the soundboards from the color changing sabers at wal-mart?

Rhyen Skytracker
04-05-2009, 08:45 PM
The color changing saber will not have all the sounds that the Anakin, Obi-Wan and Darth Vader do. Make sure you don't get one that has an extra feature like color change or force feedback. To get those features, they have to get rid of one of the sounds.

Darth Android
04-05-2009, 08:48 PM
Okay. ill make sure not to get a color changing one. and once again thanks!

Rhyen Skytracker
04-05-2009, 08:54 PM
No problem. I just don't want anyone to have to go through the process of buying one for $15 to $30 only to find out it don't have all the sounds like I did. Good Luck and I look forward to seeing pictures of your saber.

vargose
04-06-2009, 07:07 AM
Just finished a saber using this tutorial. I used airborne canisters instead of the blade section to hold the electronics in a 1.25 inch sink tube.

It takes quite the smack to get my clash sensor to go off. I think its because mine is loose. I guess thats ok. I actually like the cheap hasbro sound. Not at first, but it started to grow on me.

Darth Cipher
04-06-2009, 12:01 PM
Question: I have a force action sound board. I have all the wires labled but there are 4 wires that go to the LEDs. Attached to two of the wires there is some sort of (very basic) sensor i beleive. But fo what? I see the motion sensor and the clash sensor.... The other two wires go to the LED.... should i attach it to the sound board? or get rid of it? or what? Thanks!

Rhyen Skytracker
04-06-2009, 02:32 PM
Those wires are part of the on/off circuit and are not needed. There are 4 wires that go to the on/off circuit ant you only need 2 of them. You can cut and tape off the brown and blue wires. The way that saber works is: when you push the button to realease the blade, it momentarly makes one switch and when you close the blade, it momentarely makes the other switch.

You can wire in a 4 AAA battery pack to test the switch with the yellow wires. Just hook it up like the tutorial (this one does not require the Y splice) and cut and tape off the blue and brown wire that went to the LED. Once power is applied, push the switch with the yellow wires and the saber will come on, push it again and the saber will go off. I always test it this way before I get too deep in the wiring to make sure the connections for the switch are good.

Darth Cipher
04-06-2009, 02:34 PM
thanks dude!

Jef D'min
04-15-2009, 06:36 PM
Ryen, I was wondering, how much juice are you running through this rig? From the pics it's hard to tell. I'd like to set this up but don't want to fry anything!

Jef D'min
04-15-2009, 06:39 PM
sorry found the answer! 4 AAA.

cardcollector
04-16-2009, 07:12 AM
sorry found the answer! 4 AAA.

Congrats on finding your own answer!!!:D:cool:

Rhyen Skytracker
04-16-2009, 08:22 AM
Thanks for letting me know I left that out. I have added it to the first line in the tutorial. Let me know if I need to add anything else. :D

Jef D'min
04-16-2009, 07:27 PM
my aim is to please! unfortunately, my aim sucks!

Darth Abominor
04-30-2009, 10:09 AM
Not sure if I missed any reply to this post stating this info, but would these econo-soundboards fit in the curved Ultra Dark Initiate/Apprentice hilts?? The tute seems simple enough, though my concern is spacing and stability in the smaller curved handles. Any hints would help and I'd even send you my blade for modding if you wish it RS. :)

Rhyen Skytracker
04-30-2009, 11:32 AM
I will get you the dimensions of the card when I get home today. That should help you out some. The card is not that large, you probably can the card to fit if you don't put it inside the tube and just insulate it with something to make sure it don't ground out.

Revan
05-01-2009, 01:00 AM
could this possibly support a luxeon 5 with 7.2 volts with Lithium ion batteries?

Rhyen Skytracker
05-01-2009, 04:44 AM
could this possibly support a luxeon 5 with 7.2 volts with Lithium ion batteries?

Not directly, the board can only take 6V max and the output is only around 300 - 350 mA. You can add a voltage regulator for the card V input and a relay for the card output and use a buck puck.

silverclown
05-22-2009, 06:12 AM
so is there no hope for attempting to use the color change board? I have a great idea, but from what im reading you say stay away.

vargose
05-22-2009, 06:38 AM
so is there no hope for attempting to use the color change board? I have a great idea, but from what im reading you say stay away.

Are you talking about the ultimate build your own clone wars saber? You can use it, but the board does put out enough current to run an LED. So you'll need to put the LED on a seperate circuit with a second switch, or with a relay. Its been done couple different ways. Just search the boards.

silverclown
05-26-2009, 11:25 AM
Naw im talking about the color changing skywalker one, the one that goes red to blue, seems too big to fit in the tube and the speaker is a bit hefty as well.

Rhyen Skytracker
05-26-2009, 11:31 AM
The color changing one does not have all the sound effects as the other ones. As for the speaker, I always replace the speakers with the ones Tim sells.

silverclown
05-29-2009, 11:36 AM
but it seems like there is no way its gonna fit, anyway i got lucky and won a Lot of 5 hasbros, so lets see what happens

jedi Xam'i Letsab
06-10-2009, 07:02 PM
Thanks Rhyen. how did you post that pick of the lightsaber so big?

papigeorge1
06-21-2009, 09:41 PM
Being new to this i found this to be the Best tutorial in the forum. right to the point clear explanations, and great pics. having trouble finding a us or a cf. wish i could just back order one, but this will give me sound till i can get something better. THANK YOU Skytracker!!

Rhyen Skytracker
06-21-2009, 09:49 PM
You are welcome. Glad I could help.

DrakoniamX
07-11-2009, 12:35 AM
I'm new to soldering and wiring and all, and i'm buying TCSS's Lux III/Seoul P4 kit and i want to use the Red/Orange Lux. Could you tell me what button to use, and will a 700ma buck puck be good? If not what kind? Also could you post some pics or describe to me how to wire everything, like which wires to the switch, to the led, battery pack, and negatives and positives and all. Sorry, i'm a noob at wiring, im only 13 and i wanna build alot of sabers!! haha

Jedi-Loreen
07-11-2009, 01:16 AM
If you're not using the economy Hasbro sound board in your saber, then this is not the right thread to post in.

If you look at this chart, you will see that 700mA is not enough current for a Red-Orange Lux III or P4 LED. You would need to wire 2 of those buck pucks to get more current.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/resistor.aspx

There are plenty of tutorials to show you how to wire up everything. Go read through the threads in the Tutorial section. And look through some of the threads in the Gallery section, especially threads by LDM, he takes lots of photos of the electronics in his builds. Then go read the threads linked in his signature.

This is a Do-It-Yourself kind of forum, not a Tell-Me-Exactly-What-To-Do forum. You need to try and find the answers for yourself. The questions you ask are very basic and have been answered many times. It almost sounds as if you don't even know how to tell which are positive wires and which are negative.

If you show that you have done some (preferably a lot) of reading and still can't find the answers, you will be more likely to get more specific help, or be pointed out to the threads that will help you more.

But please try to help yourself, first.

DrakoniamX
07-11-2009, 01:20 AM
sorry, forgot to say. i ment what wires to wire FOR the economy soundboard, and what button to use for it etc..

DrakoniamX
07-11-2009, 03:04 AM
I know it's not a Tell-Me-Exactly-What-To-Do forum. And I have been reading around, ever though of the fact that maybe I didn't find what I was looking for?? And I have read the links in LDM's signatures. I got confused about the wiring for the soundboard so what? But I know how to wire the whole kit together. And do you really think that I'm that stupid to not know negatives from positives? You have no idea how much reading i've been doing, it may not sound like it but I have been reading a lot. And its 5 in the morning, of course i'll make a mistake, i might forgot some things. Oh and also, I'm not expecting someone to "hold my hand". One more thing, there's a lot of posts or threads in this forum that expect you to already know some things about electronics, most that aren't even posted in these forum!!

Jay-gon Jinn
07-11-2009, 06:57 AM
sorry, forgot to say. i ment what wires to wire FOR the economy soundboard, and what button to use for it etc..

That is all pretty much covered in the first two posts of this topic. And all of the hasbro toys soundboards require momentary buttons. I'm afraid some basic knowledge of electronics is required to be in this hobby, and yes, there is information here that covers the basics, and then some. You probably won't find what you're going to need to know by using the search function. You will have to start going through the topics manually, and read the ones that might answer your question based on the titles. I'd start in the "Led Hilts and Wiring Discussion" section....I know there's some good stuff in there, I read it all myself when I got started.

Jedi-Loreen
07-11-2009, 08:16 AM
Ok, so I made some assumptions based on your posts, don't get all butt hurt about it, we've had a lot of lazy noobs coming here lately. Suck it up and move on.

I know there's an overwhelming amount of info here, but the less you know about electronics, the more you need to read.

I have the advantage of having been here since almost the very creation of this message board, so I've pretty much just had to read the new posts as they are made.

And I already had more than a basic knowledge of electronics and had been building sabers for years.

If you're bored some time, Google Jedi Loreen and you'll see what I used to be "famous" for. People all over the world know who I was/am.

And please show a little respect for those of us who have been here for a while. Also, anyone who has Jedi Council right under their name has been hand picked by Strydur to help him watch over these boards.

DrakoniamX
07-11-2009, 12:25 PM
Oh ok, im sorry but just because your "famous" or a jedi council member that doesnt mean you can talk down on people. I know im not the person to be suggesting things but i think you should be more nice and make people like these forums

Jay-gon Jinn
07-11-2009, 12:44 PM
Oh ok, im sorry but just because your "famous" or a jedi council member that doesnt mean you can talk down on people. I know im not the person to be suggesting things but i think you should be more nice and make people like these forums

She wasn't talking down to you, she was simply stating how the forums work and what they are here for. Just let it go, please.

Misael
07-17-2009, 06:40 PM
Thank you Jay-gon for answering the question. I've been searching for the answer for days. I couldn't figure out which switch should be used for the Hasbro sound card. I should use a momentary switch. I don't have a Hasbro Force Action Lightsaber so I didn't know how the switch worked.

Because of your help, I will now buy a Hasbro Force Action Lightsaber to scavenge the sound card for my first custom.

May the Force be with you all... always.

Misael

PS: Thank you very much, Rhyen Skytracker, for taking the time to start this thread and share this tutorial with us all. It has been very helpful.

--------------------------------------------------

Pride and Self-importance is the way of the dark side.

jtzako
07-30-2009, 07:05 AM
I wired up a Hasbro card from the Clone Wars Anakin saber. Unfortunately the only sounds that even sound reasonable (even with a better speaker) are the power on/off sounds. The hum warbles and doesnt come close to the way it should sound and the movement sound is too quick and often plays repeatedly even when you arent trying to move the saber.

I'd love to have a sound device that works similar to the way the iphone/gphone Lightsaber app does. They have more than one level of movement detection (slow, fast, faster, clash) with an appropriate sound for each and it has good quality sounds.

Dendore
08-01-2009, 07:08 PM
Ok, here it is. The tutorial for wiring the economy version of the hasbro toy sound card. In this setup I am using the 4 AAA battery pack as the power source. First of all, I have had great results using a green or blue Cree LED and a Red Lux I (yes you heard me right, a Lux I), the card will deliver bright even blades with these LEDs. I have added text to the pictures to explain the process in each picture. Here is part 1.

EDIT: In case you can't get these less expensive sabers, ($5.96 - $10) you can use the hasbro force action sabers. They wire the same way except you don't have to make the "Y" splice and the clash sensor is already mounted to the board. Be careful which ones you get as some of them don't have all the sounds. Stay away from the ones with extra features like the color changing or the forrce feedback. Here is a list of known ones that have all the sounds. From the Clone Wars Force Action Series: Anakin (without the color change), Obi-Wan (without the force feel) and the Darth Vader saber that is usually setting on the shelf with the Anakin and Obi-Wan. Feel free to ask me about any other ones you may run across.

Maybe I'm bad at reading but what are the two types of lightsabers you are describing here? Hasbro Economy and Hasbro Force Action? Are those the actual names of the sabers? Can you provide links please? I'm not seeing any hasbro lightsabers under 10$ anywhere that have sound.

cardcollector
08-01-2009, 08:22 PM
The Force action lightsabers are the ones that spring open when ever you pull a button. They are ~$20 at target.

The "economy" lightsaber were lightsabers that were sold a tWalmart for a few months. Hasbro has stopped making them. You can get them on ebay for around $12-$15.

Rhyen Skytracker
08-01-2009, 11:27 PM
Maybe I'm bad at reading but what are the two types of lightsabers you are describing here? Hasbro Economy and Hasbro Force Action? Are those the actual names of the sabers? Can you provide links please? I'm not seeing any hasbro lightsabers under 10$ anywhere that have sound.

Ever since we bought all the $5.96 - 10 sabers I have not seen them anymore. The next cheaper ones are from $19.99 to $24.99.

Ebek
08-02-2009, 04:35 PM
This was awesome!

Helped me get my first saber up and running very quickly. Thanks! :D

Rhyen Skytracker
08-03-2009, 05:14 AM
Glad it was able to help you out. Can't wait to see more sabers from you.

Dendore
08-05-2009, 10:03 AM
And all of the hasbro toys soundboards require momentary buttons.

Does this mean that I have to hold the button the entire time I want light/sound? (That would suck) Or is there some sort of locking mechanism on the button that just keeps it depressed like a ballpoint pen?

(Or option 3 I'm just misunderstanding what a momentary button is; but I believe keyboard keys are momentary and you have to hold those for them to be active =\)

Lonewind
08-05-2009, 10:05 AM
Does this mean that I have to hold the button the entire time I want light/sound? (That would suck) Or is there some sort of locking mechanism on the button that just keeps it depressed like a ballpoint pen?

(Or option 3 I'm just misunderstanding what a momentary button is; but I believe keyboard keys are momentary and you have to hold those for them to be active =\)

Nope - one press activates it , second press turns it off.

The momentary button is just a requirement for that type of soundboard.

ThreeQuadFive
08-11-2009, 09:40 AM
This tutorial is great!
Please sticky!!

Steli Demar
08-11-2009, 07:17 PM
Do you need a resistor to run this or will 4 AAA's not fry the LED? I am gonna try this with this LED Luxeon 1 Star LED - Red-Orange Lambertian, 55 lm @ 350mA, 2.95 forward volts Oh also the Hasbro I'm using is the Obi Won from Ep II.

cardcollector
08-11-2009, 07:21 PM
Do you need one to run this or will 4 AAA's not fry the LED? I am gonna try this with this LED Luxeon 1 Star LED - Red-Orange Lambertian, 55 lm @ 350mA

Firstly why are you using a lux I? Lux III's are usually better.

6 volts WILL fry a lux I as the Lux I's maximum voltage is 2.9V. Use 2 AA batteries instead, the sound board will run fine.

Steli Demar
08-11-2009, 07:23 PM
OK Thank you for fast reply I just assumed he said in the 1st post he was using 4AAA's also would a Lux III run without a resistor on this build?

cardcollector
08-11-2009, 07:26 PM
Yes, When you use a soundboard it acts as the Driver/resistor for your LED.

If you gave a Lux III 6 volts without a resistor it would burn out.

Steli Demar
08-11-2009, 07:34 PM
Ok good now I have a little better understanding of it again thank you for a fast reply.

cardcollector
08-11-2009, 07:38 PM
No problem, Make sure you post pics when you are done!:cool:

galen marek
08-12-2009, 02:52 AM
Great tutorial! will definetly use if i can manage to get space in my saber, i might extend it a little from the original designs just to fit one of these in! as soon as i get my paycheck i will order one of them economy sabers, maybe a couple.
Thankyou!:D

dgdve
08-12-2009, 07:24 AM
Great GREat GREAT job, i love to see new more affordable solutions for the saber customizer.. im a firm believer that just because something costs more doesnt always mean its better.. with this saber sound solution and a pvc hilt.. you can make a couple cheap sabers for your nephews/nieces/kids/neighbors kids(you get the idea) and actually get it done for very very affordable price and everyone here knows that a couple kids can break a saber faster then dueling anyday(for some reason??) so money IS the biggest issue in building a nice saber for the kiddies. once again GREAT(all caps see see) JOB!!!
~dave

galen marek
08-12-2009, 07:56 AM
:P lol , why would you build sabers for neighborhood kids, unless its like, your kids friends for their birthday and you got some spare time on your hands, and money.

dgdve
08-12-2009, 08:18 AM
well i said "neighbors kids" not neighborhood kids and yeah thier parents will be supplying the cash intended, and one thing to note is if you build the electronics(i.e. solder the connections) you can let them glue the pvc together and they will feel as if they have accomplished something and what parent doesnt want there kids to actually learn about electronics and real world applications... most important thing to a kid=toy so its win/win... i had kids from a b-day party sleep with the sabers they made and they didnt even have sound this was back in the el days and you just couldnt keep the kids still once they saw the "light".. :)
*note if making sabers for b-day parties apparently "cool stickers" is a must have item, go figure* lol
~dave

galen marek
08-12-2009, 09:00 AM
yea, i would have loved my neighbors to give me a lightsaber, still would :)

Rhyen Skytracker
08-12-2009, 04:01 PM
Do you need a resistor to run this or will 4 AAA's not fry the LED? I am gonna try this with this LED Luxeon 1 Star LED - Red-Orange Lambertian, 55 lm @ 350mA, 2.95 forward volts Oh also the Hasbro I'm using is the Obi Won from Ep II.

You can drive a LUX I Led directly from the Economy hasbro sound card. I have done it over 70 times and have not had any problems. But as Card Collector said, DO NOT TRY TO PUT 6 VOLTS TO A LED WITH OUT SOME TYPE OF DRIVER OR RESISTOR. The economy sound card does act as a driver.

Steli Demar
08-13-2009, 05:52 PM
OK thanx Rhyen, I have all the wiring done today just waiting on the LED and Blade. Also do I need to use a heatsink with the LUX I?

Steli Demar
08-13-2009, 06:05 PM
You can drive a LUX I Led directly from the Economy hasbro sound card. I have done it over 70 times and have not had any problems. But as Card Collector said, DO NOT TRY TO PUT 6 VOLTS TO A LED WITH OUT SOME TYPE OF DRIVER OR RESISTOR. The economy sound card does act as a driver.

What about a Lux III wired the same way?

thejedilestat
08-14-2009, 01:28 AM
a LUXIII run off a hasbro board should be just fine i have used a k2 led on 2 hasbro boards thanks to master Rhyen Skytracker for his help


just rember to cover the wire leads... i have fryed 2 hasbro boards cuz i didnt cover the wires or remove the AAAs from the pack rember to do that and i think you will be fine

Darth Zion
08-16-2009, 07:01 PM
I hooked everything up the way the tut shows and for some reason the led continues to have a very dim glow when the switch is off. but when the switch is activated everything else works ine. It is just when turned off the LED just has that slight glow.

Darth Zion
08-17-2009, 06:02 AM
any suggestions

dgdve
08-17-2009, 06:12 AM
question.. is your led being driven from the board?
sounds like theres a bleed off issue(you know the same reason when working on notebooks you remove the battery then hold the power button to clear the system ;) or your switch may not be working correctly
if you have room id install a mock charge port/KILL switch, dont need to switch to rechargables just the port. and it does look hella cool and the kill switch WILL solve this or a slide switch as well but i think you should trace your connections and be sure they are all correct. hope this helps
~dave

Rhyen Skytracker
08-17-2009, 08:03 AM
It sounds like either a couple of wire are touching each other or making contact through the hilt. I would make sure all your solder connections are neat and clean and make sure no wires or contacts are touching each other or the hilt. Make sure you use heat shrink and all contacts are insulated. Are you usind a piece of the toy saber blade to house the card, like in the tutorial?

Darth Zion
08-17-2009, 09:21 AM
I don't even have the board in the hilt. It worked fine then out of the blue it started doing this glowing thing. How do I set up the kill key?

Darth Lesphus
08-25-2009, 07:24 PM
Great tutorial! I can't wait to try it out!

TwolfJB
09-05-2009, 07:42 AM
great tutorial, just two quick questions, in this thread it was discussed that economy solund cards could run a lux III but it was never clearly stated weather it could or not, so could a force action vader card run a royal blue lux III with 4aaa? and i saw that it was said a resister isn't nessecary but could one be used anyway or would that just be pointless? (i just want to be certain since i don't want to blow out any parts since i can't afford replacements), i've been reading around other threads but haven't been able to find the answers, unless i just over looked them or something

Rhyen Skytracker
09-05-2009, 08:39 AM
great tutorial, just two quick questions, in this thread it was discussed that economy solund cards could run a lux III but it was never clearly stated weather it could or not, so could a force action vader card run a royal blue lux III with 4aaa? and i saw that it was said a resister isn't nessecary but could one be used anyway or would that just be pointless? (i just want to be certain since i don't want to blow out any parts since i can't afford replacements), i've been reading around other threads but haven't been able to find the answers, unless i just over looked them or something

They can run the LUX III but not at full power, so you won't get the brightest blade with that set up. Which is why I recommended either the CREE LEDs for blue or green or a LUX I red/orange for the red. Getting a bright blade is not about getting the brightest LED, it is about getting the right combination of LED and LED driver. You can have the brightest LED in the world, but if it isn't properly driven you will not get a bright blade. I have had great success using CREEs and LUX I with this sound card.

Dendore
09-11-2009, 09:04 AM
I looked into those CREE leds and they look a little difficult to mount, so I want to stick to stuff from the TCSS shop. I'm probably going blue Seoul P4. So the 350mA this card puts out wouldnt nearly drive that at a brightness I'm shooting for so heres my idea:

Would it be possible to power the LED directly from the battery pack (with resistor), but still have the board and LED both be turned on from the same switch?

Matt Thorn
09-11-2009, 10:54 AM
I looked into those CREE leds and they look a little difficult to mount, so I want to stick to stuff from the TCSS shop. I'm probably going blue Seoul P4. So the 350mA this card puts out wouldnt nearly drive that at a brightness I'm shooting for so heres my idea:

Would it be possible to power the LED directly from the battery pack (with resistor), but still have the board and LED both be turned on from the same switch?
Yep. But you need to get a momentary DPDT switch (and there are not a lot of choices out there) or a relay. I'm sure there must be wiring diagrams for such setups in the "Cutaway views and wiring schematics" forum.

sfer1
09-11-2009, 10:01 PM
I looked into those CREE leds and they look a little difficult to mount, so I want to stick to stuff from the TCSS shop. I'm probably going blue Seoul P4. So the 350mA this card puts out wouldnt nearly drive that at a brightness I'm shooting for so heres my idea:

Would it be possible to power the LED directly from the battery pack (with resistor), but still have the board and LED both be turned on from the same switch?
I think this is a better solution:

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss85/sfer1_album/ForceActionRelayBuckPuck.jpg

I used a 5V relay I got from Radioshack.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062478&tab=summary

Dendore
09-11-2009, 10:13 PM
What exactly does the relay do? I mean thats a 1000mA relay with a 1000mA buckpuck (I also don't see why you have the buckpuck and the driver board... thought they did the same thing).... which I guess means it puts out 1A to the LED.... which is exactly what I want. But doesn't that mean it will be drawing 1A through the board and fry the board?

sfer1
09-11-2009, 10:26 PM
The relay acts as the switch. The BuckPuck puts out 1A to the LED. No, you won't be drawing 1A through the board.

Matt Thorn
09-11-2009, 10:30 PM
What exactly does the relay do? I mean thats a 1000mA relay with a 1000mA buckpuck (I also don't see why you have the buckpuck and the driver board... thought they did the same thing).... which I guess means it puts out 1A to the LED.... which is exactly what I want. But doesn't that mean it will be drawing 1A through the board and fry the board?
The relay keeps the circuit for the soundboard and the circuit for the LED "quarantined" from each other. The sound board triggers the relay, which closes the LED circuit, but the LED circuit get its power directly from the battery pack, not through the soundboard.

pus2meong
09-14-2009, 10:00 AM
Hello, I got this hasbro board. But this one is different from the one at the first page. I kinda confused with the wiring. Anyone ever use this kind of sound board? Here is what I can figure it out so far.
http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/pus2meong/powershot/IMG_1554.jpg
http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/pus2meong/powershot/IMGdsad.jpg

Please correct me if I'm wrong:
1. Led wire is the one with LED+ and LED- marks
2. Power wire is the one with M+ and M- marks (one of these cable also connected to the Diode, so I came to this conclusion)
3 Speaker wire is the one with SP+ and SP- marks
4. Switch wire is the one with S+ and S marks

Am I making a mistake?

Rhyen Skytracker
09-14-2009, 10:42 AM
Could you take another picture with the wires moved out of the way so we can see all the labels on the board? I have several different types at home and I will check them after work.

pus2meong
09-14-2009, 02:37 PM
Could you take another picture with the wires moved out of the way so we can see all the labels on the board? I have several different types at home and I will check them after work.

http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/pus2meong/IMG_1562.jpg

And here the rest (don't wanna show it all here, too big and take alot of space).

http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/pus2meong/IMG_1564.jpg
http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/pus2meong/IMG_1566.jpg
http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/pus2meong/IMG_1571.jpg
http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/pus2meong/IMG_1575.jpg

Let me know if you need more specific place.

cardcollector
09-14-2009, 05:35 PM
What you have is an Obi-wan "Feel the force" sound board...

Here is a thread to help:cool:- http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6811

Rhyen Skytracker
09-14-2009, 05:42 PM
You beat me to it CC. lol Card Collector is correct, that does look like an Obi-wan feel the force sound card. By the way, what kind of camera do you have? It take great close up pics.

Matt Thorn
09-14-2009, 06:01 PM
Just don't do what I did and try to override the "flash on clash" effect by using the wires for the motor. You will kill the board. :rolleyes:

pus2meong
09-14-2009, 09:54 PM
@Card Collector
Thank you. Based on the tutorial, I made a mistake :P

@Rhyen Skytracker
I use the most cheapest compact camera in Canon line up, Powershot A480.
Just use Macro mode and it will enable you to take close distance shot (up to 1cm with super macro) I think all compact camera already got macro mode now.
This camera got no image stabilizer, so a steady hand is a must :D

@Matt Thorn
Thanks for the warning :)

Matt Thorn
09-14-2009, 10:25 PM
@Card Collector
Thank you. Based on the tutorial, I made a mistake :P

I hope it wasn't a fatal mistake. I wrote that so-called tutorial back when I didn't know Amps from Ohms. :oops:

pus2meong
09-15-2009, 10:49 AM
I hope it wasn't a fatal mistake. I wrote that so-called tutorial back when I didn't know Amps from Ohms. :oops:

Don't worry nothing bad happen (at least for now :D). I just test it based on the tutorial, so far so good (But I don't have motion and class sensor, need those. Will any random motion and class sensor work?)

Matt Thorn
09-15-2009, 05:22 PM
Don't worry nothing bad happen (at least for now :D). I just test it based on the tutorial, so far so good (But I don't have motion and class sensor, need those. Will any random motion and class sensor work?)
Yes. The clash and motion sensors were not attached when you got the board?

Darth Xanthus
09-15-2009, 10:51 PM
I love the blade use for shielding!

pus2meong
09-16-2009, 08:20 AM
Yes. The clash and motion sensors were not attached when you got the board?

Just the soundboard. Without motion and class sensor I only got power up, power down, and humming sound :D

Anyway, can you tell me the name and serial number of the motion and class sensor. May be I can find it at my local electronic shop.

cardcollector
09-16-2009, 11:12 AM
If you have another Hasbro board you can just take the clash sensor off of one and put it on the other...

Momentary switches would make the clash work as well.

Matt Thorn
09-16-2009, 03:50 PM
Just the soundboard. Without motion and class sensor I only got power up, power down, and humming sound :D

Anyway, can you tell me the name and serial number of the motion and class sensor. May be I can find it at my local electronic shop.
This should work as a motion sensor:
http://jp.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mountain-Switch/107-2008-EV/?qs=70eMCcM%252b5dyedLs%252b3kcjoA%3d%3d
I can't find anything on mouser that resembles the kind of simple, mechanical impact sensor you would need, but you could either 1) make your own using some kind of spring a metal post (I seem to remember seeing a tutorial on how to make one somewhere on these forums), or 2) use a momentary switch and simply press it each time you want to activate the clash sound.

If you have another Hasbro board you can just take the clash sensor off of one and put it on the other...
I'm guessing that if he had another Hasbro board, he would just use that instead of using this one. ;)

pus2meong
09-20-2009, 07:29 AM
Okay, thanks for the info.
Since I don't have another Hasbro Board, so I will use my creativity :D

Darth Locke
09-21-2009, 09:34 AM
Nope - one press activates it , second press turns it off.

The momentary button is just a requirement for that type of soundboard.

So does DPDT or SPST make a differance, is one better for the hasbro board?
Would really like to use a TCSS DPDT illuminated Mom switch.

Sorry if this was already covered.

Matt Thorn
09-21-2009, 10:01 AM
So does DPDT or SPST make a differance, is one better for the hasbro board?
Would really like to use a TCSS DPDT illuminated Mom switch.

Sorry if this was already covered.
If you're doing a straightforward setup, with the LED being driven through the soundboard, you don't need a DPDT. (In fact, momentary DPDTs are not easy to find.) Any momentary SPST will do the job.

Darth Locke
09-21-2009, 10:39 AM
If you're doing a straightforward setup, with the LED being driven through the soundboard, you don't need a DPDT. (In fact, momentary DPDTs are not easy to find.) Any momentary SPST will do the job.

and if I'm using the relay/buckpuck/lux3 config?

Rhyen Skytracker
09-21-2009, 11:04 AM
and if I'm using the relay/buckpuck/lux3 config?

If you're using the buck puck, you will need a DPDT switch.

Darth Locke
09-21-2009, 11:08 AM
thanks I appreciate the help.

great tutorial BTW.

Paar Ad
09-22-2009, 09:42 PM
Nice tutorial, will save me a load of money on my MHS designs.

Darth Locke
10-15-2009, 04:22 PM
Okay so i picked up an Obi wan style saber at goodwill for 2 bucks. I took it apart and there is no motion sensor or even a wire for the + power connection.
On the board there are 2 wires labeled lamp + & - I assume these are what I should use for LED connections, and there is a ground and a spot on the board with no wire labeled BA+. I plan on using the diagram Sfer1 posted on page 10 of this thread for running a lux3, can anyone help. Here is a pic of the board and components:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i27/tchnopagan/Lightandsound.jpg

cardcollector
10-15-2009, 04:30 PM
http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss85/sfer1_album/ForceActionRelayBuckPuck.jpg


Not every hasbro saber has a motion sensor.
Could you have accidentally pulled the batt + wire off of the board?

You don't really need it, just splice the lamp + to the batt + and it will work fine.

I don't want to comment on anything else because I don't know much about the 5v relay...

Darth Locke
10-15-2009, 04:49 PM
no I double checked I got everything that was in the toy no left over wire.

By splice the Lamp + to the Batt +, how so?

Lamp + wire to the battery pack, the relay and the LED?

or should I just run from the Batt pack + wire to the BA+ spot on the board and to the relay?

cardcollector
10-15-2009, 05:02 PM
like this for the batt +...
Dunno about the relay though. Sorry.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=42&pictureid=368

Darth Locke
10-16-2009, 01:37 AM
I know its a bit convoluted, but what about this set up with the relay...

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i27/tchnopagan/user4265_pic368_1227844238.jpg

Rhyen Skytracker
10-16-2009, 05:13 AM
It looks like that will work. Let us know how it turns out for you.

Matt Thorn
10-16-2009, 05:42 AM
It looks like that will work. Let us know how it turns out for you.
Naive question here, but just to confirm: That relay will make it possible to use a momentary switch with a Buckpuck? Push once and the Buckpuck is turned on; push the button again and it turns off? Is there a generic name for such a relay?

Darth Locke
10-16-2009, 11:01 AM
The one I'm using that Sfer1 suggested is a reed relay from radio shack here is a link to the specific one:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062478

Rhyen Skytracker
10-16-2009, 11:19 AM
Yes, the econo card basically turns on the buck puck or resistor set up with the LED output of the card.

$tarkiller
10-16-2009, 01:12 PM
Would you need a seperae drier for accent LEDs? or may I use the board?

Matt Thorn
10-16-2009, 05:35 PM
Would you need a seperae drier for accent LEDs? or may I use the board?
Use the board with a 220-Ohm resistor for each LED, wired in parallel.

Thanks for the response about the relay, guys. My brain was on holiday when I asked that. Obviously, as long as the board is on, the relay will be getting current and do its job. :rolleyes:

darth carnage
10-19-2009, 12:56 AM
Rhyen will this setup still work with a lux 3 led ?

Rhyen Skytracker
10-19-2009, 06:10 AM
Because of the high power requirements it is a little more difficult to use the Lux III red. I always use the Lux I red/orange with the economy hasbro sound card. You will be surprised with the brightness of a red/orange Lux I in this set up.

cardcollector
10-19-2009, 07:27 AM
A lux one is PLENTY bright...
see here:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=8863

Jedi-Loreen
10-19-2009, 10:00 AM
Best to use a shorter blade, if you use a Lux 1. Don't use a 40".

Rhyen Skytracker
10-19-2009, 11:24 AM
Good point J-Lo, I forgot to mention that. I would use around a 30 - 32" blade.

Valgard Telash
10-20-2009, 02:43 AM
ime using a 1999 hasbro quigon board, ime getting interfierence through the speaker (which stays on all the time)

also can i use a push to make instead of a momentary swich?

Rhyen Skytracker
10-20-2009, 05:18 AM
Those sound cards must have a momentary switch to operate. A latching switch will not work.

darth carnage
10-20-2009, 07:37 PM
Rhyen will this setup work with the lux 3 led ?

Rhyen Skytracker
10-20-2009, 09:13 PM
I wouldn't recommend it with a red Lux III. You can try it with the relay set up, but I would use a red/orange Lux I or a Red CREE Led with it.

Dendore
10-25-2009, 07:20 PM
Ok so I am taking apart my obiwan force action (see picture). Yellow wires on left (out of picture) go to the speaker. Top 2 are battery I'm pretty sure. Bottom 2 blue are for the switch. Now there are 4 wires on the right side of the picture I'm not sure what to do with.

Green White Purple Orange. They were all going into the 3 LED enclosure on the saber. Now from a previous diagram on this thread it looks like the green is for a kill switch which I will not be using so I can disregard that? The other 3 I dunno.

I have the 4 wire 1Abuckpuck from here... Need to figure out where that fits in as well if it does with this wires. I assume 2 are for my LED. Were there just more wires because more LEDs? And I am using a P4 Seoul Blue... that will be brighter than even these 3 combined right? And this toy saber had a flash on clash effect... is that only because it had multiple LEDs? Will my singlE p4 accomplish this?

Matt Thorn
10-25-2009, 07:39 PM
Ok so I am taking apart my obiwan force action (see picture). Yellow wires on left (out of picture) go to the speaker. Top 2 are battery I'm pretty sure. Bottom 2 blue are for the switch. Now there are 4 wires on the right side of the picture I'm not sure what to do with.

Green White Purple Orange. They were all going into the 3 LED enclosure on the saber. Now from a previous diagram on this thread it looks like the green is for a kill switch which I will not be using so I can disregard that? The other 3 I dunno.

I have the 4 wire 1Abuckpuck from here... Need to figure out where that fits in as well if it does with this wires. I assume 2 are for my LED. Were there just more wires because more LEDs? And I am using a P4 Seoul Blue... that will be brighter than even these 3 combined right? And this toy saber had a flash on clash effect... is that only because it had multiple LEDs? Will my singlE p4 accomplish this?
The wiring diagram for that board is here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=8589#3). No, those wires are not there because of the three LEDs, which are, IIRC, wired in series. The flash-on-clash has nothing to do with the multiple LEDs. And somebody recently posted a diagram for a Buckpuck, I believe, but it's probably in another thread. Happy hunting.

Dendore
10-25-2009, 07:50 PM
excellent! so green and white are kill switch and can be negated.... purple and orange will go into vin/vout on the buckpuck.... Now, would there be any consequence for not using a relay in this setup?

Matt Thorn
10-25-2009, 07:55 PM
excellent! so green and white are kill switch and can be negated.... purple and orange will go into vin/vout on the buckpuck.... Now, would there be any consequence for not using a relay in this setup?
If you want to use the Buckpuck, you'll need a relay, because the Buckpuck won't work with a momentary switch. I just hook the 3-watt LED directly to the soundboard, without a Buckpuck (though you'll need the proper resistor if you want to use red/red-orange/amber). Sometimes simple is best.

Dendore
10-25-2009, 09:10 PM
Why does the buckpuck care about the switch? Seems like it shouldnt since its coming off the board and the board keeps the circuit on.... so buckpucks just cant come off the boards at all? Different circuit type or something?

Edit: Lets say I still decide to go with buckpuck and do need relay... what ratings on relay? for 1A buckpuck and 6V power source are those the specs I need... 1A 6V? or does it have to do with the LED too? I see where one guy says he used 1A 5V.. Close enough either way I imagine...

Edit2: More of just a clarification... This board actually makes the LED do a flash on clash affect correct? The relay/buckpuck shouldnt interfere with that and I dont need anything else from the original LED assembly?

Matt Thorn
10-25-2009, 10:46 PM
Why does the buckpuck care about the switch? Seems like it shouldnt since its coming off the board and the board keeps the circuit on.... so buckpucks just cant come off the boards at all? Different circuit type or something?

Edit: Lets say I still decide to go with buckpuck and do need relay... what ratings on relay? for 1A buckpuck and 6V power source are those the specs I need... 1A 6V? or does it have to do with the LED too? I see where one guy says he used 1A 5V.. Close enough either way I imagine...

Edit2: More of just a clarification... This board actually makes the LED do a flash on clash affect correct? The relay/buckpuck shouldnt interfere with that and I dont need anything else from the original LED assembly?
I searched for the terms "Buckpuck" and "relay" and quickly found the diagram I was referring to (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=143567#179). The search function is your friend. ;)

Rhyen Skytracker
10-26-2009, 04:31 AM
The buck puck regulates the current that is fed into it. For example: If you are using 2300 mAh batteries a 1A buckpuck will regulate the current at 1A or 1000 mA. The buckpuck can only regulate the current, not generate more current. So, if you are driving the buckpuck directly off of the economy sound card, which only puts out around 300 mA then it won't be able to put out 1A. That is why the buck puck is fed from the batteries (through the relay)

Dendore
10-26-2009, 05:02 AM
Thorn, I referred to that same diagram in my post. But my questions werent about that. They were how to determine the proper specs on a relay and whether or not a relay/buckpuck would interfere with the flash on clash affect?

Rhyen Skytracker
10-26-2009, 05:59 AM
If you hook up the relay to the LED output then it will flash on clash. This relay will work fine. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062478

Dendore
10-26-2009, 02:29 PM
Hey Rhyen I went to 2 radioshacks and the reed relays they had with that part number were actually 5V 0.5 Amp.... is this a mispackage on their part? Wrong internet listing? Would this work? Can't find a 1A anywhere.

Rhyen Skytracker
10-26-2009, 03:25 PM
Looks like they have them online.

Dendore
10-26-2009, 03:39 PM
I was probably just reading the package wrong. Because I did find that exact item you linked. Just didnt say 1A anywhere on it. Says 0.5 A @ 125V AC.... I believe that is referring to the "switching current" which is actually lists on that same product on the website. Just seems odd it wouldnt say anything about 1A on the package but does on the website. Slightly confusing... guess I'll have to put a little faith in the shack and just go for it. Thanks man.... gonna solder tonight and should have it up and running... Kinda nervous for my first saber... will post pics if it works :P

Matt Thorn
10-26-2009, 11:02 PM
I was probably just reading the package wrong. Because I did find that exact item you linked. Just didnt say 1A anywhere on it. Says 0.5 A @ 125V AC.... I believe that is referring to the "switching current" which is actually lists on that same product on the website. Just seems odd it wouldnt say anything about 1A on the package but does on the website. Slightly confusing... guess I'll have to put a little faith in the shack and just go for it. Thanks man.... gonna solder tonight and should have it up and running... Kinda nervous for my first saber... will post pics if it works :P
Good luck.

Rhyen Skytracker
10-27-2009, 03:54 AM
Can't wait to see it. Good luck.

Darth Locke
11-03-2009, 04:38 PM
I finished my economy saber, and the buck puck / radio shack relay seems to work just fine. here is the link to the thread with pictures, (including the wiring scheme)
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=150955#post150955

I'll post more pics once I get a Blade.

Sidd
11-04-2009, 07:02 PM
I didnt see this asked in the thread yet.

Will the Hasbro Boards support a Luxeon 3? would i need to add a buckpuck to it?

Matt Thorn
11-04-2009, 07:41 PM
I didnt see this asked in the thread yet.

Will the Hasbro Boards support a Luxeon 3? would i need to add a buckpuck to it?
The answers are 1) yes and 2) no.

See this thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=8589).

Sidd
11-04-2009, 08:20 PM
OK thanks

I already have a Lux3 and a hasbro board laying around just need an emitter and I am ready to rock

Nineteen
11-05-2009, 10:33 PM
What gauge wire is in these boards?

Pilot Rogue Leader
11-12-2009, 07:19 PM
Congratulations for your Amazing Tutorial....ĦĦĦĦ

The Force is really with you, and with great generosity....

Congrats again....and Ill be specting more of your posts...

darthrage
11-15-2009, 10:00 PM
someone should build this and send them to the electronicly challenged (a.k.a. me)

Vos Malek
11-16-2009, 09:36 AM
Ok, I think I've got this down now. I want to run a LuxIII on a 2008 Dooku sound board with a relay. This board doesn't have a "LED+" wire so I'm just going to run the pos. from the battery pack in it's place. Should work the same way. Instead of the buckpuck I was planning on running a resistor, simply because I have one and have no other use for it. My question is, with this setup, do I need a dpdt switch or can I just use an spst switch?

Rhyen Skytracker
11-16-2009, 11:57 AM
If you are using a relay you will only need s spst switch, but if you are planning on direct drive off of the batteries then you will need a dpdt switch.

Jedi-Loreen
11-16-2009, 04:16 PM
Rhyen, is Pilot Rogue Leader a fan, or a sock puppet? :p Doesn't quite have the marks of a SPAMbot.


I wonder if he'll post anything else?

Vos Malek
11-16-2009, 04:50 PM
Thanks Ryhen! I would have been completely lost if it wasn't for this tutorial.

JediKnight12345678
11-17-2009, 07:44 PM
I am using one of the older versions of this. You said in the tutorial to cut off the orange and anther color that I forget. On the soundboard that I am using, there are a red and yellow wires running all the way up as far as it can. Are those the ones I cut off?

Jagahati
11-17-2009, 08:37 PM
You remove the wires leading to the secondary momentary switch (The one triggered by the blade being collapsed).

Always go by function if possible, colors are often different in different models or subjective in nature (is it black with white stripes? or white with black stripes? My red is your orange ect .ect). Therefore going by color alone is not the best policy.

When in doubt read it again. Then look at the picture. Then read it again. Then look at the picture again. Then read it again.

You CAN and WILL figure it out.

Rhyen Skytracker
11-18-2009, 12:32 PM
On some of the older ones you don't have to cut any wire off. You only cut the wires on the Force Action Lightsabers. They have 2 switches in them one that turns the saber on when the blade extends and the other one turns the saber off when the blade retracts. Most of the older ones do not have this feature.

lord jad
11-21-2009, 02:16 PM
i tried to do this and the sound worked fine but the led is barly visible in the blade. I am using royal blue lux III kit with a 36 inch blade, for the sound part it it a mace windu electronic lightsaber form toys r us. I was wondering if there was a way to brighten up the led.or make the blade brighter

Rhyen Skytracker
11-21-2009, 11:16 PM
These boards don't put out much current and don't work well with LEDs that require high power. If you want a good blue that will work with these boards then use a blue Cree LED. Tim don't sell them in his store but you can find them by searching for them on google.

lord jad
11-25-2009, 03:55 PM
okay thanks for the idea. is a "crww" led a cree. and if so can you use the same heat sink that i have for my lux 3. IT's my first saber and i'm only 13 so i don't have that much money. How much are the led's you suggested. Also why would using an led that requires less power be brighter, wouldn't it just make it worse.

Rhyen Skytracker
11-25-2009, 04:09 PM
LOL. Yes a Crww is a cree LED and you can use the same heatsink. It is brighter on less power because it is more efficient that the LUX Led.

Matt Thorn
11-25-2009, 04:11 PM
I've used Luxeon III's (cyan and green) directly powered through cheap Hasbro boards, and they've been plenty bright. Maybe there's a problem in your set-up, Lord Jad.

And, yes, that's "Cree," not "Crww." Rhyen is a big proponent of Crees. ;) I've never tried one myself, mostly because I haven't been able to find them with the necessary star-shaped PCB. Maybe Rhyen can point us in the right direction.

In the meantime, Lord Jad, maybe you could take a couple of photos of your wiring (turned on, so we can see how bright the LED is).

lord jad
11-25-2009, 05:32 PM
here are some pics of the wiring and the blade with it on.

Rhyen Skytracker
11-25-2009, 05:34 PM
Have you checked the batteries? It looks like the batteries are low.

lord jad
11-25-2009, 05:55 PM
ya i cheched them they work fine, just now. i replaced them last week.

Matt Thorn
11-25-2009, 08:00 PM
I may be totally off track here, but I see you're using alkaline batteries, which means you have a total of ħ6V, and I don't see a resistor. I've only ever used Ni-MHs (4.8V) in this sort of setup. Could it be that the LED is getting too much voltage? I seem to remember reading somewhere that some LEDs actually become dim if given too much voltage.... You may also have damaged the LED without frying it entirely.

If I were you, I would test the LED without the soundboard. For a 6V set-up like you have there, you should use a 2.2-Ohm, 5-Watt resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/22ohm-5w-resistor--P11.aspx), or a 1000mA Buckpuck (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-1000mA-6-wire-P10.aspx). If the LED is still dim in that configuration, it means you've got a damaged LED.

Rhyen Skytracker
11-25-2009, 09:05 PM
I use 6V with those cards all the time and haven't had any problems. If it is a Lux III royal blue the card don't have enough power for it. The only LED I have had success with is the Lux I red/orange and the Cree blue and green.

Jedi-Loreen
11-25-2009, 09:15 PM
No, not electrical tape! :o


Get some heat shrink, boy!


After you fix your problems.

Matt Thorn
11-25-2009, 10:37 PM
I use 6V with those cards all the time and haven't had any problems. If it is a Lux III royal blue the card don't have enough power for it. The only LED I have had success with is the Lux I red/orange and the Cree blue and green.
Hmm. That's odd. I'm using that same Force Action board in a project with an ordinary blue Luxeon III, and, as you can see, it's plenty bright.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/Sw4TSUikKKI/AAAAAAAACcs/BEIMkKJyrbE/s400/IMG_1421.JPG (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Zq5cuil9XAW0hQyCboMF-Q?feat=embedwebsite)

cardcollector
11-26-2009, 08:29 AM
The royal blue is quite different than the regular blue. In some BIN #'s it will look like the MR mace windu purple.

It is the dimmest Luxeon LED.

lord jad
11-26-2009, 03:21 PM
i am using a royal blue yes and for a ressistor i have one but i didn't know where to put it. The resitor is the default one in the lux 3 kit. and i have heat shink too but i had already soldered when i remebered to put on.

Rhyen Skytracker
11-26-2009, 05:14 PM
You don't need a resistor with the economy hasbro board. You can drive the LED directly from the board.

lord jad
11-26-2009, 05:20 PM
thats what i thought after reading all the comments

Matt Thorn
11-26-2009, 06:41 PM
Lord Jad, we all forget to put the heatshrink on sometimes. ;) Desoldering, putting the heatshrink on, and resoldering is the thing to do.

Rhyen may disagree, but it sounds like the simplest and cheapest solution to your problem is to get a 5-Volt reed relay. I'll make a diagram and post it if you like.

Rhyen Skytracker
11-26-2009, 06:47 PM
Rhyen don't disagree at all. If the board is not putting enough power out for some reason, adding a relay would be the next step. The best thing to do would be get a multimeter and measure the voltage and current to see what the board is putting out. I would also test the LED with 2 AAA batteries. Hook the 2 AAA batteries directly to the LED and see if it gets brighter. If it doesn't, the the LED may be bad.

lord jad
11-26-2009, 07:04 PM
thanks matt that idea sounds great i would relly appreaciate it if you did put up that diagram. and i will check my led .

Matt Thorn
11-26-2009, 07:47 PM
Here's the diagram, Lord Jad. I only chose this particular reed relay (Tyco JWS-117-1) because it is readily available from mouser.com and I know how to wire it. Since I'm recovering from a cold and my brain may not be functioning properly, Rhyen or someone else might want to check it for errors.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/Sw8_rqzGJSI/AAAAAAAACdQ/myw0KIlzyiE/s800/CW_force_action_relay.png (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/KGrbhFDi4TgDO9i2Zy-oDw?feat=embedwebsite)

The relay is basically a kind of switch activated by electricity. The positive line from the battery pack to the LED is interrupted by the relay. When you turn the saber on, electricity flows through the lines originally meant for the LED, into the relay, activating an electromagnet in the relay that closes the break in the LED's positive line, so that the full voltage of the battery pack goes straight to the LED. In a nutshell, rather than powering the LED, the soundboard powers the switch that turns on (and off) the LED. I hope that makes sense.

cardcollector
11-30-2009, 10:25 AM
Hey matt,
The specs on that relay say 500ma, does that mean the maximum ma it is able to put out?

If so, wouldn't that kinda defeat the purpose of the relay since LUX III's like 1000ma?

Jedi-Loreen
11-30-2009, 12:32 PM
.5A is the contact current range, which has nothing do to with the amount of voltage and current that can run through it once the contact is activated and the switch is closed.

cardcollector
11-30-2009, 12:39 PM
Oh, so that is the amount of current required to activate the relay?

EDIT:
Where can you get a 3 volt relay for a Li-ion recharge ststem?

EDIT EDIT:
Never mind, the 5 volt relay will work at 3.5 volts...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=7535&highlight=volt+reed+relay

Alexander
12-04-2009, 04:27 PM
this thread rocks. i was really looking to do something like this. the 2.5 was easier from the looks of it, but i'm gonna give this a try!!

Matt Thorn
12-04-2009, 05:33 PM
this thread rocks. i was really looking to do something like this. the 2.5 was easier from the looks of it, but i'm gonna give this a try!!
You mean the UltraSound 2.5? The US 2.5 is certainly easier to wire. Just keep in mind that the "economy version Hasbro" board is like a tricycle, and the US 2.5 is like a Volvo. (And the elusive Crystal Focus is like a Porsche.) Tricycles are great for what they do, but they are no substitute for a Volvo. ;)

Alexander
12-04-2009, 09:43 PM
very true.
i haven't had the honor to see a CF in person yet. i've only seen videos on it. i'm sure it a real piece of art.

i had put together a saber with a US2.5 and it went well.

i'm just looking at all the extra wiring for the hasbro, and i'm a tad bit intimidated because it'll be my second saber. BUT, at least its a few dollars i can spare to experiment with.

Edit: (typo)

Rhyen Skytracker
12-04-2009, 10:24 PM
It is not really all that bad to wire up if you do a straight forward set up and don't try to use a relay to start with. If you use a blue or green CREE or a red Lux I it will be easy to wire up, plus those LEDs will give you a nice bright even blade with that card. Feel free to PM me about any questions.

Alexander
12-09-2009, 03:56 PM
will do. thanks alot for your help man

Nineteen
12-09-2009, 08:33 PM
Sorry if this has been asked before, but which (Lux I or Cree) is better to use with an economy board setup for the standard colors: green, blue, and red?

Rhyen Skytracker
12-10-2009, 05:38 PM
Use a Cree for blue or green and a Lux I red/orange or P4 for red.

Darth Copley
12-16-2009, 05:12 AM
I have an old school ROTJ Skywalker Hasbro saber. It does not have a swing motion sensor/sound. I've read this entire thread, and only one post hinted an answer to my question... which is... Do the newer ones have swing motion sound? Mine just has activate, de-activate, idle hum, and 2-3 clashes with the last clash ending in a swing 'hum' sound. Thanks for the tutorial Rhyen :)

Rhyen Skytracker
12-16-2009, 05:17 AM
Certain new ones have all the sounds. The ones I know that have all the sounds are Force Action Anakin, Darth Vader and Obi-Wan. If you get any of the ones with any extra features like force feel or color change it will not have the swing sound.

Update to LEDs that work with these boards. Red P4

Matt Thorn
12-16-2009, 05:55 AM
I have an old school ROTJ Skywalker Hasbro saber. It does not have a swing motion sensor/sound. I've read this entire thread, and only one post hinted an answer to my question... which is... Do the newer ones have swing motion sound? Mine just has activate, de-activate, idle hum, and 2-3 clashes with the last clash ending in a swing 'hum' sound. Thanks for the tutorial Rhyen :)
You've got one of these (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=143785&postcount=5). Hope this helps.

Darth Copley
12-16-2009, 11:59 AM
Thank you Thorn-San :) I have yet to remove the sound card.. and probably wont on this one. Even though its just a toy, it still has value to me as my first light saber when I was like 16 ;) Plus I can't use it if there is no swing effect. Played with it last night and couldn't get past that part haha

Rhyen Skytracker
12-16-2009, 12:53 PM
I thought I should post this thread here too to show how bright you can get a blade with an economy hasbro board. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9814

Darth Copley
12-16-2009, 11:48 PM
I thought I should post this thread here too to show how bright you can get a blade with an economy hasbro board. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=9814

Nice :) That was/is hella bright. So that's the first seoul that you've tried with the economy hasbro board?

Rhyen Skytracker
12-17-2009, 12:21 AM
Yep, I normally use Cree for blue and green and used Lux I for Red. I will be using the P4 for reds from now on.

Matt Thorn
12-17-2009, 12:24 AM
Thank you Thorn-San :) I have yet to remove the sound card.. and probably wont on this one. Even though its just a toy, it still has value to me as my first light saber when I was like 16 ;) Plus I can't use it if there is no swing effect. Played with it last night and couldn't get past that part haha
Understandable. One of the maddening things about the toy saber boards is that one version (yours) has decent sound, but no swing sensor, and the other has a swing sensor but (IMHO) lousy sound. The Force Action sound (the kind that has the swing sensor) has an idle hum that sounds like some kind of engine, and the swing sound is annoying. Of the two flavors, I prefer the kind that your saber has. I'd rather have its random "pseudo swing" sound than the Force Action's "real swing" sound. I don't understand why they didn't use the old sounds when they developed the Force Action, but Lucasfilms is not famous for being demanding of their licensees. :rolleyes:

Darth Copley
12-17-2009, 02:04 PM
Understandable. One of the maddening things about the toy saber boards is that one version (yours) has decent sound, but no swing sensor, and the other has a swing sensor but (IMHO) lousy sound. The Force Action sound (the kind that has the swing sensor) has an idle hum that sounds like some kind of engine, and the swing sound is annoying. Of the two flavors, I prefer the kind that your saber has. I'd rather have its random "pseudo swing" sound than the Force Action's "real swing" sound. I don't understand why they didn't use the old sounds when they developed the Force Action, but Lucasfilms is not famous for being demanding of their licensees. :rolleyes:

Matt since we're on the subject, do you own a MR AND a new Hasbro Sig series lightsaber? I just got my first Hasbro Sig last night. To be honest, I'm not happy with the sound board at all. The idle hum, activation, and deactivation sounds are good, but the swing sensor isn't nearly sensative enough, and especially the clash sensor. I think there are only 2 - 3 swing sounds. I had to bang my saber pretty hard against my couch to get a clash. Then I tried just striking the hilt, still takes a lot to get the clash. If no one has this answer or dosen't want to answer that's cool, I'll start looking for it if it's there. But I am wondering if this is the same sound board as the MR or not... I mean, I can not see any difference in the hasbro VS MR on the outside. Same everything, same parts that MR's machine shops were making I believe.. also looks like the same stand. I really think they used the same plastic injection mold for the stand. I may be way off here, but it seems like Hasbro kind of bought the resources that MR was using. So does anyone know if they are the same? If not, which one is better? Can you make the Hasbro board more sensative to swings and clashes?

Yeah you are right about the old hasbro boards... honestly my toy ROTJ luke sounds great. I like the idle hum to it. I have not got to play around with a newer force power one though... that sucks that they have worse sounds with more sounds envolved haha. You couldn't run two cheapo sound boards at once if there was room could you? and maybe manipulate one to not do the idle hum? :idea:

Matt Thorn
12-17-2009, 06:58 PM
Matt since we're on the subject, do you own a MR AND a new Hasbro Sig series lightsaber? I just got my first Hasbro Sig last night. To be honest, I'm not happy with the sound board at all. The idle hum, activation, and deactivation sounds are good, but the swing sensor isn't nearly sensative enough, and especially the clash sensor. I think there are only 2 - 3 swing sounds. I had to bang my saber pretty hard against my couch to get a clash. Then I tried just striking the hilt, still takes a lot to get the clash. If no one has this answer or dosen't want to answer that's cool, I'll start looking for it if it's there. But I am wondering if this is the same sound board as the MR or not... I mean, I can not see any difference in the hasbro VS MR on the outside. Same everything, same parts that MR's machine shops were making I believe.. also looks like the same stand. I really think they used the same plastic injection mold for the stand. I may be way off here, but it seems like Hasbro kind of bought the resources that MR was using. So does anyone know if they are the same? If not, which one is better? Can you make the Hasbro board more sensative to swings and clashes?
I'm pretty sure there has been plenty of discussion in other threads about this. Basically, yeah, Hasbro inherited everything from MR. And both MR and Hasbro have only two flavors of sound--Jedi and Sith--even though individual boards may look different. The difference in sound has to do with the different structures and materials of the hilts, the location of the sensors in the hilts, etc. There is not a lot you can do to change the sound in a given hilt, although I suppose you could do some surgery and create a bit of a resonance chamber for the speaker. As for increasing sensitivity, you could try to replace the motion sensor with one from TCSS, but I have no idea if that would make a difference.

Yeah you are right about the old hasbro boards... honestly my toy ROTJ luke sounds great. I like the idle hum to it. I have not got to play around with a newer force power one though... that sucks that they have worse sounds with more sounds envolved haha. You couldn't run two cheapo sound boards at once if there was room could you? and maybe manipulate one to not do the idle hum? :idea:
That's Force Action, not Force Power. ;) I was actually just thinking about that the other day, but I'm pretty sure the answer is "No." If each sound had its own chip, you could (in theory) disable the chips for the sounds you don't want, but 1) I'm pretty sure all sounds are "flashed" onto a single chip (thus making it impossible to isolate sounds), and 2) even if the sounds were produced on separate chips, you would have to destroy a lot of boards in order to figure out which chip does which. But no one would be happier than me if there was some way to easily (and cheaply) make a hybrid that uses the sounds of the old boards with the swing functionality of the Force Action series.

Dakarn
12-22-2009, 11:07 PM
I'm new and really appreciate the information in the thread - going to use it to build my 1st MHS saber.

Noticed that the Darth Vader Force Action Lightsaber, the Mace Windu and the Obi Wan and Anakin ones are on sale for a very good price from Amazon. (don't know if mentioning this is against forum rules, if so sorry) Ordered 3 of the Darth Vader ones to play with and to have as a spare in case I mess up the conversion but it seems simple.

Dakarn
12-27-2009, 07:17 AM
Is there any difference between the jedi and sith Force Action econo boards as well? Or is it the same sound effects?

Rhyen Skytracker
12-27-2009, 07:44 AM
There is no difference between the Jedi and Sith econo boards.

On the MR/Hasbro FX there are 3 different boards now. You have the Jedi, the Sith and now the Ventress which has better clash sounds than the other Sith board does.

Jedi-Loreen
12-27-2009, 07:47 AM
"Better" clash sounds is kind of subjective. But is has more clash sounds.

I don't like the hum, it sounds like angry bees. :p

I haven't heard one of these in person yet.

Rhyen Skytracker
12-27-2009, 10:33 AM
"Better" clash sounds is kind of subjective. But is has more clash sounds.

I don't like the hum, it sounds like angry bees. :p

I haven't heard one of these in person yet.


Pretty much anything is better than the monkey gong. Hey, Angry Bees could be very intimidating. LOL

Jedi-Loreen
12-27-2009, 11:30 AM
Especially if they were killer bees. :shock:

Dakarn
12-27-2009, 09:21 PM
Especially if they were killer bees. :shock:

Very intimidating! 8-)

Phew, I was worried that the econo boards had differences and I'd be stuck with 3 dark side ones. Back to more saber planning.

Dakarn
12-31-2009, 08:18 AM
I got my Vader Force Action lightsabers in last night and took one apart this morning. The wiring is a bit different that the photos on the 1st page and the clash sensor is not attached to the board. There are 4 LED leads as well.

The sounds seem to be: on, off, hum, short swing and clash.
Can someone confirm the sounds?

I'll post a photo of the new board when I get home this afternooon.

vargose
12-31-2009, 08:46 AM
There are several types of Hasbro boards. Overall there are some that used 2C batteries and others that used 3AA. The Force Action lightsabers used 3AA. The 2C boards use a lightbulb and the 3AA have 3 LEDs. The board in this tutorial is one of the 2C boards.

As far as the wiring differences are concerned, there are other threads that talk specifically about the Force Action boards. Here is a Force Action board wiring Diagram (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=129400&postcount=124). The best thing I can tell you is to pay attention when removing the board so you can tell what wires do what. Which are for the batteries, positive and negative? Which are for the switch? Which are for the speaker? Which are for the LEDs, positive and negative? Some of this is printed on the board too.

Now you also need to be careful about how much power is coming out of the board. The Force Action boards put out more power than the economy 2C boards.

Dakarn
12-31-2009, 09:04 AM
There are several types of Hasbro boards. Overall there are some the take 2C batteries and others that take 3AA. The Force Action lightsabers take the 3AA. The board in this tutorial is one of the 2C. The 2C batteries use a lightbulb and the 3AA have 3 LEDs.

As far as the wiring differences are concerned, there are other threads that talk specifically about the Force Action boards. Here is a Force Action board wiring Diagram (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=129400&postcount=124). The best thing I can tell you is to pay attention when removing the board so you can tell what wires do what. Which are for the batteries, positive and negative? Which are for the switch? Which are for the speaker? Which are for the LEDs, positive and negative? Some of this is printed on the board too.

Its a 3 AA board which is different than the one posted in the link you provided. I should've searched for more information 1st. If I don't see it I'll post a separate topic to cover it.

vargose
12-31-2009, 09:09 AM
The Vader Force Action should be at least similar enough to the one I posted for you to be able to use it. Pay attention to the printed labels on the board. They should at least be the same.

Nineteen
12-31-2009, 10:12 AM
Looking from my boards that I have, labeling is mostly the same:

VCC is always positive. There are probably 2 VCCs: One is the positive to the LED, the other is the positive to the battery. Just look for which one goes where when you take it out. I believe VCC1 is the battery pack positive lead, and VCC is the LED positive lead.

Lamp is the negative lead from the LED.

VSS is the negative lead from the battery pack.

Also, there are two sets of switch wires: one is the set you'll use, and the other is the set that turns off the saber when the blade is pushed back down. For this, just pay attention to where the wires go. The set you want is the set that was connected to the normal on/off switch on the toy saber.

Hope this helps you out a little.

cama900
01-17-2010, 08:10 PM
I don't know if this has been asked, but what type of cree led do you use for a 40" green saber?
would this one be good?
http://ledsupply.com/creexre-g.php

you said you liked the red seol p4. what about seol p4 for green?

Rhyen Skytracker
01-17-2010, 08:26 PM
Yes, that is the CREE I use. I haven't used a P4 green yet, but I plan on trying one soon.

cama900
01-17-2010, 08:45 PM
Yes, that is the CREE I use. I haven't used a P4 green yet, but I plan on trying one soon.

OK, thanks. And just making sure, if I use a luxeon III and a relay, I can get its complete output.

Rhyen Skytracker
01-17-2010, 09:21 PM
Yes, a relay with the correct resistor and the Lux III will give you full power.

Saarai
02-14-2010, 07:20 AM
how are the white P4's with that type of sound board?

edit: "sorry was half awake this morning, I meant the P4 whites. I know you said the red and blue are fine.

cardcollector
02-15-2010, 07:03 AM
All P4's work fine.

Including the white.

Darth Biff
02-25-2010, 11:07 PM
Greetings all,

I just pulled apart a Dooku saber and reclaimed the sound board. The switch for the saber wasn't wired to the board, but rather activated the circuit with one of those crappy little silicone bubbles that made contact closure when squished down onto the PCB. Now, I think there are 2 small pads on the back side of the PCB for a switch connection, because there is the text "ON/OFF" in small silk screening on the PCB (though I'll still have to meter it out to be sure).

Does anyone have any experience with this particular flavour of sound board? Am I on the right track?:confused:

As always, any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Rhyen Skytracker
02-26-2010, 06:01 AM
There are 2 traces under the silicone bubble thingy. You can solder a wire on each trace or you can trace out the trace and try to find a better spot to solder it to.

Matt Thorn
02-26-2010, 09:05 AM
There are 2 traces under the silicone bubble thingy. You can solder a wire on each trace or you can trace out the trace and try to find a better spot to solder it to.
It's a lot easier to do the latter. If I recall correctly, I think there are actually two unused holes on the traces for the switch. Soldering directly to those teeny tiny traces is a job for...I dunno, maybe Ant Man? ;)

Darth Biff
02-26-2010, 10:37 AM
Greetings all,

Rhyen: Yeah, I was thinking of that, but I'd be worried about a couple of things: 1) Those traces wouldn't provide much mechanical strength for the solder joint, since they're so thin; 2) I'd be worried about a short ocurring, since the traces are so close together, and 3) I have the steady hands of an epileptic chainsaw sugeon. I would SOOOO mung it up...:)

Matt: Luckily, we have a microscope at the solder station at work. Once I confirm the terminals by metering it out, I can at least see where I have to solder the wires. Wish me luck, I'm goin' in...:shock:

Thanks guys.

cardcollector
02-26-2010, 04:23 PM
If I may quote myself...


Before you read this- GET THE BOARD OUT IN FRONT OF YOU!!!

got it? good.;)

There are two Solder tabs on the bottom that are connected to the switch part of the board.
One is kinda over lapping one of the "E"s.
Follow the line off the other "E" that goes under the green insulation to the connected solder tab. Works like a charm!:D

Works everytime...;)

Dalesabers
02-28-2010, 02:03 PM
Well I just purchased one of the force action sabers and after replacing all of the thin ass cheap wires and speaker with better ones then installing it... I feel giddy like a school girl :P. I'm just waiting to get another one to do the same with my friends lightsaber that i'm building for him.

Rhyen I really wish to express my gratitude for your tutorial and your assistance.

Rhyen Skytracker
02-28-2010, 07:17 PM
No problem, we are glad to help.

Darth Biff
03-01-2010, 02:47 PM
Greetings all,

I have an Obi-Wan cheapy Hasbro board that I've wired up using the Buckpuck and a relay. My issue is with sound. If I use the Hasbro speaker, I get sound. If I use Tim's premium speaker, I get none. I looked for what the impedence for the TCSS speaker is, but couldn't find it. I'm going to try and meter both, but my DMM may not be accurate enought under 40 ohms to tell me much.

Does anyone have any info on the premium speaker? I'm guessing it's 8 ohms, and the cheapy speaker is 4. As always, any assitance is greatly appreciated.

Darth Xusia
03-01-2010, 02:52 PM
They are 8 ohm. I'd check to make sure you have correct polarity.

Darth Biff
03-01-2010, 03:05 PM
Greetings,

Darth Xusia: Checked and double-checked. I've tried it with 2 different premium speakers. I think the premium speakers are too high impedence for the board. I'll throw a parallel resistor in there, and see what happens...

RayVader
03-08-2010, 10:00 PM
Awesome work, I was going to input a similar tutorial. I was sure I wasn't the only one who figured out how to modify the electronics from the cheap saber and put them into a nice prop lightsaber. Another secret is to make sure you have about an inch of space between the speaker and end of the saber hilt, this will help amplify the sound. Also don't completely cap of the end of the Hilt. I found that a sink strainer insert will fit perfectly. You can find them in the plumbing section at Walmart. You'll know it when you see it for like
$1.
I already wrote a reply to a different post but I made a prototype touch sensitive lightsaber. It has no on/off switch. It is just a small area you touch with your thumb to make if power on/off.

In all honesty all I did was take the electronics noted in this thread and modify it some. I remove the momentary switch. Since the circuit latches the IC Chip to be on or off it only needs a small amount of path to make it power on or off. What I did was take one wire of the momentary switch and attach it to the thumbscrew of the hilt to make the hilt one side of the circuit. Then used 2 pieces of copper tape (the sticky side must be the conductive type) I then soldered the other wire to one of pieces of copper tape and isolated it from the hilt by using duct tape underneath it. Then I put the pieces of tape very close to each other on the hilt so all it takes is the skin (which is conductive) of my thumb to complete the circuit. The only issue I found is that your skin can't be dirty or dry--it becomes too resistive. If my thumb is slightly wet it works very well.
I'm thinking of trying to just use a similar circuit as touch lamps. Those are for household voltages so I need to make one for lower voltages of 6v or less.
Any ideas or comments?

RayVader
03-08-2010, 10:14 PM
Also wanted to note about the sound. The speaker must be 8 ohms AND so many watts like .1w I found the $3 speaker at Radio Shack works fine. Also Radio Shack sells small momentary pushbutton switches which can be locked into place by a nut in the hilt, just drill a hole.

Also Radio Shack has Superbright LEDs which aren't too bad to replace the light bulb. I have just finished one Hasbro modified electronics with sound and lights. I have completed about 6 so far learnig how to modify stuff along the way. I did have an EL (electro luminescent) lightsaber with that type of electronics but it used batteries like crazy---LED is much better.

Darth Biff
03-10-2010, 10:30 PM
Greetings all,

*SIGH*

I never thought I'd say this, but man, do I miss Radio Shack.

Circuit City bought the Canadian division of Radio Shack (Intertan Ltd.) some years ago, turning it into The Source, and they have completely stopped carrying electronic components. Now, I either have to go to Future electronics and give them all my money for their overpriced parts, or order from Digi-Key. They're not bad, but their website sucks in it's non-intuitiveness and crappy search capabilities.:(

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
03-10-2010, 10:41 PM
Greetings all,

*SIGH*

I never thought I'd say this, but man, do I miss Radio Shack.

Circuit City bought the Canadian division of Radio Shack (Intertan Ltd.) some years ago, turning it into The Source, and they have completely stopped carrying electronic components. Now, I either have to go to Future electronics and give them all my money for their overpriced parts, or order from Digi-Key. They're not bad, but their website sucks in it's non-intuitiveness and crappy search capabilities.:(

Quoted for truth.:(

Our "Source" still has a little bit of the hobby electronics stuff on the shelves, but I think they are just selling off the old stock. I've noticed that as I've bought things, they haven't been replaced.

Dalesabers
03-11-2010, 10:27 AM
yeah I honestly hate the Source. None of the sources here in London carry any good electronics so I have to head out to the only electronics shop which they don't even carry much. I find this one shop in Toronto to be the best shop to get alot of my electronics parts, Active Surplus litterally carries everything with the exception of lenses, holders, and a minority of the saber parts.

Dalesabers
03-17-2010, 06:28 PM
has anyone have an issues with the clash sensor locking when you turn the card certain angles?

JEsse_Chalmers
05-04-2010, 06:32 PM
hey there, sorry, i got the 2010 hasbro clone wars ani cheap saber (the one that says it comes with a dvd, it has the clash detector already mounted on the board, also the main power button also appears to be mounted on the board) the question i had was, well basically:

i only have one black wire comin out of the board, and i believe it is the neg battery side, so after im done taking everything out of the lightsaber im supposed to be left with 2 black wires, one going to LED and one going to the neg battery bit. after the Y split, i do have 2 red wires, but yeah im just a bit baffled here. i know these are do it yourself projects, but i just dont exactly know what to do to get my led working, cause i only have the Y spit red wire, dont i need a second wire(the black one in your photos) for the led too?
ps i think the problem is that the LEDs from the original stock saber are mounted directly on the soundboard too(i guess they figured they really wanted to stick as much crap as they could on one tiny microchip) so am i looking for wires that dont exist?

apologies once again and thanks to anyone who can shed some light, i can post a pic of the soundboard if you need too

Et Kin Evenstar
05-04-2010, 06:41 PM
Everything ya need to know should be here:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=10288

courtesy of cardcollector. Good luck! :-)

JEsse_Chalmers
05-04-2010, 06:42 PM
sorry for having you redirect me, thank you for being so quick

Matt Thorn
05-04-2010, 09:44 PM
hey there, sorry, i got the 2010 hasbro clone wars ani cheap saber (the one that says it comes with a dvd, it has the clash detector already mounted on the board, also the main power button also appears to be mounted on the board) the question i had was, well basically:

i only have one black wire comin out of the board, and i believe it is the neg battery side, so after im done taking everything out of the lightsaber im supposed to be left with 2 black wires, one going to LED and one going to the neg battery bit. after the Y split, i do have 2 red wires, but yeah im just a bit baffled here. i know these are do it yourself projects, but i just dont exactly know what to do to get my led working, cause i only have the Y spit red wire, dont i need a second wire(the black one in your photos) for the led too?
ps i think the problem is that the LEDs from the original stock saber are mounted directly on the soundboard too(i guess they figured they really wanted to stick as much crap as they could on one tiny microchip) so am i looking for wires that dont exist?

apologies once again and thanks to anyone who can shed some light, i can post a pic of the soundboard if you need too
You are indeed looking for wires that don't exist. Since the LEDs are mounted directly to the main board, no wires are used. The Anakin board seems to be identical to the Vader board, so follow the instructions for the Vader board in the thread Et Kin Evenstar linked to. FYI, here's a photo of all four 2010 models opened up (courtesy of an anonymous Japanese user):
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/S-IycJsyYKI/AAAAAAAAEpc/rBDlHNeROrA/s400/2010%20Hasbro%20sabers.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/zAo3V65FVAqExNg4zgApKg?feat=embedwebsite)
http://photo2.avi.jp/photo/2/213142/213142-8815995-5-29981284-pc.jpg

Et Kin Evenstar
05-05-2010, 08:15 AM
No apology needed. Happy to help! I'm still a noob big time and have alot to learn myself.

cardcollector
05-05-2010, 02:00 PM
You are indeed looking for wires that don't exist. Since the LEDs are mounted directly to the main board, no wires are used. The Anakin board seems to be identical to the Vader board, so follow the instructions for the Vader board in the thread Et Kin Evenstar linked to. FYI, here's a photo of all four 2010 models opened up (courtesy of an anonymous Japanese user):
http://photo2.avi.jp/photo/2/213142/213142-8815995-5-29981284-pc.jpg

I can't see the pic...:(

Matt Thorn
05-05-2010, 08:12 PM
I can't see the pic...:(
Sorry about that. The link was probably deleted because the image was too large for the forum guidelines. It should be visible now. Just click on it to see a larger version.

cardcollector
05-06-2010, 05:32 AM
Yay! Ican see the pic!:D

cannibal869
05-06-2010, 01:49 PM
FYI, here's a photo of all four 2010 models opened up (courtesy of an anonymous Japanese user):
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/S-IycJsyYKI/AAAAAAAAEpc/rBDlHNeROrA/s400/2010%20Hasbro%20sabers.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.co.jp/lh/photo/zAo3V65FVAqExNg4zgApKg?feat=embedwebsite)
http://photo2.avi.jp/photo/2/213142/213142-8815995-5-29981284-pc.jpg

Thanks for the pic - really helps with disassembly..

but who in the heck is able to open them up that neatly and nicely?!?!?!
Man, I actually really do WISH it were possible to do it that cleanly. Would actually make it possible to do reassembly, especially for conversions (I'm thinking more padawan applications).

Anyone have any ideas? So far I've been dremeling them open, but it's messy...

Et Kin Evenstar
05-06-2010, 02:08 PM
Thanks for the pic - really helps with disassembly..

but who in the heck is able to open them up that neatly and nicely?!?!?!
Man, I actually really do WISH it were possible to do it that cleanly. Would actually make it possible to do reassembly, especially for conversions (I'm thinking more padawan applications).

Anyone have any ideas? So far I've been dremeling them open, but it's messy...

I find getting these things open to be ridiculously difficult as well. When I'm done I have the smell of burnt plastic all over me too. :p

Nineteen
06-13-2010, 08:14 PM
So I want to add some accent LEDs to my saber, but I'm wondering how many is too many for a Hasbro board.

I'll be wiring each LED parallel to each other, and I want to know if it's possible to have 2 accent LEDs and the blade LED all wired from the Hasbro board without anything exploding. Mainly, I'm concerned with the Hasbro board either not being able to power all three LEDs, or if the LEDs will destroy the board with too much power being needed.

Rhyen Skytracker
06-13-2010, 08:27 PM
The older version of the Hasbro boards only put out 350 mA and that is barely enough to power a Cree or P4 with decent results. I would suggest using a relay or transistor and then you can use the accent LEDs and not have a problem. Just make sure you use the correct resistor on the LEDs though. The new 2010 Hasbros won't even power a single accent LED well with out using the relay or transistor set up.

Nineteen
06-13-2010, 09:32 PM
The older version of the Hasbro boards only put out 350 mA and that is barely enough to power a Cree or P4 with decent results. I would suggest using a relay or transistor and then you can use the accent LEDs and not have a problem. Just make sure you use the correct resistor on the LEDs though. The new 2010 Hasbros won't even power a single accent LED well with out using the relay or transistor set up.

Here is my updated idea. (http://yfrog.com/j5wiring2p)

I used this diagram as a template. (http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt51/Jagahati/2010Modified.jpg) I assumed that the transistor put out the same amount of voltage as the power source(6v), but with reduced current at 500mA.

As for the setup, I have a red blinky LED that turns on when the kill switch is removed, ie, current is going to the Hasbro board. The other three LEDs are wired to only come on when the board is on.

The LED specs and resistors are labeled for my benefit. :D


Just make sure you use the correct resistor on the LEDs though.

You know my motto: When in doubt, use a resistor!