Economy Version Hasbro Sound Tutorial

[thejedilestat]

could i just run a buckpuck with an econ board? not just the new ones but the older sound boards aswell

not trying to run a LUX V just a LUX III maybe a 3W RGB

[Matt Thorn]

could i just run a buckpuck with an econ board? not just the new ones but the older sound boards aswell

not trying to run a LUX V just a LUX III maybe a 3W RGB
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=139563&postcount=4

[Nineteen]

I just wanted to make sure that I have this all correct. I read somewhere that when using a transistor (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062613), it gives off 500mA. But is there any voltage lost? I'm using a 6v source voltage, and a Cree LED. Here's what I'm trying to do. (http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5647/wiring3.png) I assumed 6v @ 500mA for the resistor.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

If you wire the transistor correctlly you will get plenty of current for the LED. We were having problems wiring the collector and emitter backward and that was restricting the current. The emitter should go to the battery pack and the collector should go to the LED.

[Jagahati]

If you wire the transistor correctlly you will get plenty of current for the LED. We were having problems wiring the collector and emitter backward and that was restricting the current. The emitter should go to the battery pack and the collector should go to the LED.

No wonder I couldn't understand where people where getting the readings that showed weak current. Mystery solved!

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Don't feel bad. It took me a while to figure it out myself. For some reason I was thinking that the collector would collect the power and the emitter would send out the power. It actually works backwards. LOL

[Jedi Jacobi]

If you wire the transistor correctlly you will get plenty of current for the LED.

OK, I will leave the actual wiring to you experts while I am still learning/researching....

BUT I can give a "testimonial".

I am the owner of one of Wade's latest creations (Kryy's saber in the gallery) and the green is very BRIGHT. I have a pic of 4 of us at WMSI in Huntsville, all wielding different color sabers, and mine appears to be the brightest. (Yes, I know that green itself has that attribute.)

But even with the cheapo board, by using the transistor, the blade gets enough "juice" to be bright and quite IMPRESSIVE.

I understand that it does "eat" batteries wiring it this way... I changed batteries every day of the WMSI troop just to be safe, but it's still pretty bright 10 days later. :D

[Nineteen]

3 Questions

How much more efficient is using a BuckPuck over a resistor? Also, will I need anything to regulate the voltage as well? I'm going to have 6 volts and 700 mA going to the green Cree otherwise. Also, can I drive the green Cree at 1000 mA and be safe? Or would 700 be better?

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The buck puck is way more efficient than a resistor but, you have to have at least 5 Volts to power the buck puck. The buck puck regulates the current and with that you don't need to regulate the voltage. You can overdrive the CREE very safely at 1000 mA but you need to reduce the voltage down to around 3.3Volts. (If you use a buck puck you don't have to have to worry about the voltage)

[Nineteen]

Alright, I have everything wired up like this (http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/9454/wiring2.png). However, I still have the "strobe" effects of the board on my main LED and my 2 accent LEDs. I may be wrong, but I read somewhere that using a transistor eliminates the strobes. Am I mistaken, or have I wired something funky?

EDIT: Yeah, I found the answer, page one of the other tutorial. Darn you poor observant skills!

[Matt Thorn]

Alright, I have everything wired up like this (http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/9454/wiring2.png). However, I still have the "strobe" effects of the board on my main LED and my 2 accent LEDs. I may be wrong, but I read somewhere that using a transistor eliminates the strobes. Am I mistaken, or have I wired something funky?
A transistor will turn on and off just as a relay would, so, no, a transistor alone is not going to eliminate the strobes. If someone has found a good solution to this perennial problem, I have not seen it. The only real solution I can think of is to use a Corbin-style LED driver (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-3w-driver-V2-P230.aspx) (momentary switch configuration) for light and the Hasbro board for the sound, activating both simultaneously with a DPDT momentary switch.

[Nineteen]

A transistor will turn on and off just as a relay would, so, no, a transistor alone is not going to eliminate the strobes. If someone has found a good solution to this perennial problem, I have not seen it. The only real solution I can think of is to use a Corbin-style LED driver (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-3w-driver-V2-P230.aspx) (momentary switch configuration) for light and the Hasbro board for the sound, activating both simultaneously with a DPDT momentary switch.

Okay, thanks for this. I'll definitely keep this in mind.

[ashencross]

Newb here. One saber under my belt.

So...after sitting over a magnifier with a hot soldering iron, a Darth Vader 2010 sound board, and my current saber for about 3 hours...I've come to a couple of conclusions.

A) I'm getting the hang of soldering and electronics.

B) I can't wait for the TCSS soundboard.

C) I may have wasted $20 on a toy saber.

Needless to say, I'm less than impressed with my results and might return my saber to soundless. My blade is just not as bright as normal despite my best efforts (I'm a bit of a newb with all of this) and fitting all of the wiring, the board, the sensor, the battery holder, etc is damned near impossible.

However, if I can get a legitimate board someday, I'm confident I'll be able to wire that properly and get it going and have it sound much better than what I have now. And hopefully with less bits and pieces to keep it from screwing up...

[Matt Thorn]

Newb here. One saber under my belt.

So...after sitting over a magnifier with a hot soldering iron, a Darth Vader 2010 sound board, and my current saber for about 3 hours...I've come to a couple of conclusions.

A) I'm getting the hang of soldering and electronics.

B) I can't wait for the TCSS soundboard.

C) I may have wasted $20 on a toy saber.

Needless to say, I'm less than impressed with my results and might return my saber to soundless. My blade is just not as bright as normal despite my best efforts (I'm a bit of a newb with all of this) and fitting all of the wiring, the board, the sensor, the battery holder, etc is damned near impossible.

However, if I can get a legitimate board someday, I'm confident I'll be able to wire that properly and get it going and have it sound much better than what I have now. And hopefully with less bits and pieces to keep it from screwing up...
Well, you should be proud of yourself for remaining philosophical, instead of taking a hammer to your saber while shouting a stream of expletives.

Dumb question: Have you read this thread?
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=10288
Unless your board is fried, you should absolutely definitely 100% be able to get good brightness by using a high-output PNP transistor. Whether it will all fit into your hilt is another question. But that board is one of the best available soundboards out there (the operative word being "available"), so don't toss it. If it really won't fit in the hilt you're working with, save it for a hilt with more internal real estate. I don't know exactly how pressed for space you are, but the board in the 2010 Obi-Wan Kenobi Electronic Lightsaber is the slimmest (and easiest to work with) of those new Hasbro toy sabers. It might be just enough of a difference to make your current project feasible.

[ashencross]

Oh yes, I did a lot of research on this. And I haven't tossed any of the parts.

Basically I tried to wire all of the parts up as best I could, but it ended up just being a nest of wires. So I might just have to redo it with a bit more planning.

Some of the problems I was having:

1) Every now and then the board would beep at me when placing it in the saber hilt.. I'm not 100% sure why it was doing that, but clearly it can't be good.

2) Using a Lux 3, it wasn't quite as bright as I'd like. Not exactly sure why. It might be that the blade I have just isn't very good. I have a saber from Ultra sabers that has a different style blade that looks much better, but unfortunately it's a hair too big to fit in my blade holder.

3) I was using the diagram in this thread (or the one you referenced...I forget which) that used a transistor and voltage regulator. That being the case, there is a LOT of wiring going on and thus a lot of things to shove into a hilt. Not to mention the board itself, the speaker, and the motion sensor.

4) I can't figure out how I should properly seat the speaker, motion sensor, and board. I don't want anything too permanent, in case I have to fix anything later.

Basically, everything functioned, but it just wasn't working reliably.

[ashencross]

So after a second attempt at this, I need some advice...

Does anyone know if there is a way to use a single switch to run the sound board and the light on separate circuits...? I'm not privy to electrical parts and such so I'm not sure what part I should look for.

Basically, I just cannot get the LED to run properly off the board. At this point, the - leads to the transistor will not stay on the board.

For my next sabers I'll likely just pick up the Obi-wan board as that's all wiring and should work -perfectly- but I was an idiot and picked up the Vader saber. Still, I'd rather not have wasted $20 on this one...

Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The only time I had problems with not getting enough power to the LED using the transistor set up is when I had the collector and emitter crossed up, once I swapped them to the way they should be everything worked fine. Also, if you are using a Red LUX III this set up may not have enough current for it. The red Lux III takes more current than other LEDs. I would suggest using a red P4 if you want a red LED.

[ashencross]

While my first attempt resulted in a not-bright-enough LED, my current issue is trying to solder the wires to the board itself. My wires do not seem to want to stay on the board...Right not my only option that I know of is setting up a second switch for the sound and having them be two completely separate circuits. I'm keeping an eye online for any potential sales on the Obi-wan sabers...So frustrating that they have different boards...

I am planning on switching to the P4/Rebel LED's for future sabers.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

If you want to switch the sound and LED with different circuits and not use the transistor or relay you will need 2 switches. A momentary switch for the sound board and a latching for the LED.

[ashencross]

Okay, thanks for the advice. I'll have to see what I can do with it...

[Jay-gon Jinn]

He could use a DPDT momentary switch and use the pololu switch converting pcb (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=10374) on the led's circuit of the switch, too.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

I have heard that the pololu switch converter does not work well with the economy boards. I can't remember the details but I do remember something about the pololu switch converter and the economy boards.

[Tepp Audama]

I found this while searching for SW stuff on Ebay, never seen one before so wanted to ask a question.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Star-Wars-Qui-Gon-Jinn-Lightsaber-Light-Saber-/190421359482?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2c55ff5b7a
Do these have any sound to them, and are they ok for an economic build, if they do?

[Jedi-Loreen]

If it did, I would think it would say so in that listing.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I have heard that the pololu switch converter does not work well with the economy boards. I can't remember the details but I do remember something about the pololu switch converter and the economy boards.
I didn't mean he should use it with the sound board, but to activate a separate latching circuit for the led using a momentary DPDT switch....soundboard on one side of the switch, the led on the other w/the pololu board.


I found this while searching for SW stuff on Ebay, never seen one before so wanted to ask a question.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Star-Wars-Qui-Gon-Jinn-Lightsaber-Light-Saber-/190421359482?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2c55ff5b7a
Do these have any sound to them, and are they ok for an economic build, if they do?No,, those do not have sound...basically just a plastic flashlight with an extandable green tube on it.

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

It has been my experience the pololu boards do not like the AV switches. The pololu boards don't necessarily require a spst mom-off, but they seem to work best. the dpdt AV switches have a tendency to turn the pololu device on but not off. my$.02

[Skottsaber]

the dpdt AV switches have a tendency to turn the pololu device on but not off. my$.02

I believe that they act this way when you change the batteries. It takes a few minutes of constant on to make the board act normal again.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

It has been my experience the pololu boards do not like the AV switches. The pololu boards don't necessarily require a spst mom-off, but they seem to work best. the dpdt AV switches have a tendency to turn the pololu device on but not off. my$.02

I've used half a dozen of them now with av switches and haven't had any trouble with them.

[Marco]

Just to make sure I am correct. I can use a cree LED, Lux I-III or P4 without any resistor if its wired to the SB and therefore driven from the SB though my source voltage is around 6V because the output of the SB is only 350mA?

If I want higher power for a P4 or Lux III I can use a relay and have to use the correct resistor because the output of the relay is 1000mA? You were talking about a 5V relay but since the source voltage is 6V doesn´t that mean I have to use a 6V relay?

Third option is like with the new 2010 Hasbro boards using a simple TIP42 transistor and a correct resistor... OK! After 1000 incompetent questions and crushing Rhyens and Matts nerves I think I finally know how to wire LEDs to 2010 or older cheap hasbro boards... OR NOT? :D

If I have more money and some more experience wiring a MR sb or CF will be much easier.... At least I hope so :eek:

[Rhyen Skytracker]

You won't get a bright blade at all with a Lux III. I only specified a Lux I, Cree or P4 to use with these. Also, if you don't use a resistor be aware that there is a chance that you may fry the LED. Just want to make sure you knew that before you tried it. This board is not a true LED driver or current regulator like the buck puck and as such it may fry the LED with out a resistor.

I have used them with out resistors but I had to put that warining in there to let you know that there is a chance it could fry it.

[Marco]

Ok I better going to use a resistor... But what about the relay if the source voltage is 6V do I have to use a 6V relay instead of the mentioned 5V relay? Is a resistor for a green P4 necessary?

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The 5V relay will be fine with 1 more volt.

[Marco]

Hey me again... Its a bit strange if I use a german resistorcalculator for LEDs it always gives me a resistor of 2.75 ohm and 2.75w ... With a LED with 3.25 foward voltage 6V source and 1000 mA current
here is the link -> http://www.led-store.ch/vorwiderstand-rechner.php?zx=1680 Stk. stands for the amount of LEDs that are connected... empfohlener Norm-Widerstand: stands for: "suggested resistor" which is a 2.2 ohm 2.75w

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Wattage = V*I

With a forward voltage of 3.25 volts and current of 1A the wattage is 3.25.
You use the forward voltage and current of the LED to figure the wattage.

Resistance = (Vsource - Vforward) / current
(6V - 3.25V) / 1 amp = 2.75 ohm resistor

Since you can't get a 2.75 ohm resistor you can overdrive the LED a little bit by going for a 2.2 ohm 5 Watt resistor. I would not recommend going for a lower wattage resistor than you need, it will get very hot and burn up. It won't hurt going with a higher wattage resistor though. That is why we suggested going with a 2.2 ohm 5 Watt resistor.

[JRD1]

I just did this to my new PVC Saber and it sounds pretty good. What I noticed was that when I had the 5v regulator inline I would get sound but no power to the LED. By removing the regulator I was able to get them both... I also upgraded the speaker to a better one from Radio Shack for ~2.00. I used way to much wire on this one, but next time I will make everything more neat inside.

[jungilizt]

using a board from a broken green Yoda saber, only problem, it doesnt have a switch outside of the board, it is built into it. Is there a way to wire this thing to get sound? I can get the LED working, but no sound on it.

[Matt Thorn]

using a board from a broken green Yoda saber, only problem, it doesnt have a switch outside of the board, it is built into it. Is there a way to wire this thing to get sound? I can get the LED working, but no sound on it.
Welcome, jungilizt. The switch problem is easy to overcome. And if the board isn't broken, sound should also be easy. Upload a photo of the board and we'll help. (Is it one of those "talking Yoda" sabers?)

[jungilizt]

actually figured it out heh, i just needed to setup some solder spots a lil further apart from where the button worked. Now i am tryin to get my LED working right, it is seeming very dim.

[jungilizt]

Yeah, i cant find a point to setup the LED that it will work right. I can set it up to bypass the switch and it is bright, but if i set the negative wire to where it should be with the switch working the light is very dim. Trying to compare it to the way the stock LED was setup. There were three of those and it seemed to have some kind of strange looping system. Written on the card there is one + and then three LED - . Here is a pic of the setup so far. Speaker is wired up, batteries wired up, clash sensor is built onto the board, movement sensor is wired up and works fine, the switch is wired up and takes two clicks to turn on/off, and lastly the LED is wired up but it is quite dim compared to what it should be.

I had the sound from a Force Action spring loaded in this thing before, but i found the sound from the basic lightsabers was a lot better and decided to swap them out. The LED was really bright when attached to the Force Action board, but this one i just cant figure out.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

You have to use a TIP42 transistor with that board. Look at this thread and use diagram 2 on the first page. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=10288&highlight=2010

The new 2010 economy boards do not have nowhere near current to power a high power LED.

[jungilizt]

ohhh nice, ok thanks!

[jin starkiller]

so you need to use both the pnp transistor and the 5v reg to power the led is that correct

if just doing 6v is it the same setup

[Rhyen Skytracker]

You don't need the voltage regulator if you are using 6 volts, but for anything over 6 volts you MUST use a regulator or you will fry the board.

[jungilizt]

hmm i am a lil confuzzled, if i used the first diagram i dont need a resistor? Do i need to use the second diagram with 4 AAA batteries? Right now i have it wired like the first diagram and it works fine, though the clash is hard to get off, i tested the sensor and know it works, its just got a lot of cushioning it seems.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The battery solution doesn't really matter except if you use more than 6 volts you need to use a voltage regulator. You do need to use the TIP42 transistor to get enough power to the LED though.

[jungilizt]

Yeah i bought some PNP transistors at Radio Shack and hooked it up like it shows in the first diagram. Works fine so far, just wanted to be sure i didnt need the resistor that came with the Seoul P4 kit. In the first diagram it doesnt show one, in the second it does.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

You will still need a resistor to keep the LED from getting too hot and burning up. To find the correct resistor you need to measure the voltage between the battery pack negative and the transistor collector or if you have the LED hooked up, measure across the LED + and -. Then use the LED resistance formula.

(Vsource - V LED forward) / LED current = resistance.

[Matt Thorn]

You will still need a resistor to keep the LED from getting too hot and burning up. To find the correct resistor you need to measure the voltage between the battery pack negative and the transistor collector or if you have the LED hooked up, measure across the LED + and -. Then use the LED resistance formula.

(Vsource - V LED forward) / LED current = resistance.
Or, if you are like me and are mathematically impaired, you can use the handy LED resistor calculator (http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz). Plug in the forward voltage and forward current for your LED (It's in the datasheet for the LED, which can easily be found by Googling), then enter the results of your voltage measurement into "Source voltage." It will tell you not just the required resistance, but also the recommended wattage of the resistor (which is very important).

[jedimastergarcia87]

So the Force Action boards actually are good? I need a soundboard for my Anakin Episode 2 build next week. I will post progress pics for you@Rheyen. Will they work good with a P4 blue led and 3 accents? I was going to turn the two holes above the mpp clamp into accents and an accent inside the hilt for thr crystal. You will see. ;D Anyway, have a nice one.

[RevengeoftheSeth]

I don't recommend the Force Action boards. The 2010 Hasbro Econo boards are the way to go! I'm a firm supporter and have built 4 sabers with that board.

[DaedalusKnight]

I don't recommend the Force Action boards. The 2010 Hasbro Econo boards are the way to go! I'm a firm supporter and have built 4 sabers with that board.

Is there a specific reason not to use them? I ask because I have a loose Force Action board already and want to hook it up to a more powerful LED. Should I go get a cheap board and not bother with the Force Action at all, or is there a way to make use of what I have?

[Skottsaber]

By all means use it, but the newer ones sound 100000x better than the cruddy force actions.

[DaedalusKnight]

By all means use it, but the newer ones sound 100000x better than the cruddy force actions.

Okay, thanks. I'll keep an eye out for a cheap new one, but I'll use the Force Action that I have for now. :-)

Can someone suggest the best white LED to use with the Force Action board? Assuming I keep the three AA batteries, what LED would work best? Thanks.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The white P4s are a great white LED. Be sure to use the transistor set up with the force action board too.

[DaedalusKnight]

The white P4s are a great white LED. Be sure to use the transistor set up with the force action board too.

Okay, P4. Got it.

The same transistor as for the cheap board? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Force Action that shows where to add the transistor?

You'll have to excuse my ignorance... this is the first saber I'm building.

[Skottsaber]

Same setup as the 2010 ones ;)

[DaedalusKnight]

Same setup as the 2010 ones ;)

Okay, great.

And just because I don't yet trust my electronics skills... I see a transistor on eBay listed as "TIP42C TRANSISTOR pnp TO220 PKG 100V - 6A"... would that one work?

Also... the Force Action LED has four wires: white, red, pale orange, and pale aqua. Which of those is the positive (which will be unused)?

Thanks again.

Edit: Never mind about the second question... I found a wiring diagram in the forums. Red is positive (duh).

[Skottsaber]

Yes that transistor will work.

[DaedalusKnight]

Yes that transistor will work.

Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.

Now if I could just find a lightsaber that melts snow without damaging the sidewalk, I'd be all set. :-)

[Rhyen Skytracker]

You want to use the wire from the board that says lamp on the board to go to the base of the transistor. The rest is still the same.

[DaedalusKnight]

You want to use the wire from the board that says lamp on the board to go to the base of the transistor. The rest is still the same.

Got it. Do I need to add in a ground wire anyplace or is the ground wire from the momentary switch fine?

Here's a diagram I found on another board. It's the Mace Windu Force Action. I've added in labels around the outside to show what each will be connected to, and I've added in the transistor (borrowed from another diagram). Everything look okay?

4769

[Rhyen Skytracker]

That won't work like that. The lamp wire (which is a negative) goes to the base of the transistor, the Batt + goes to the emitter of the transistor and the LED + goes to the collector of the transistor. It won't work the way you have it. Look at the second diagram in this thread. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&highlight=2010

[DaedalusKnight]

That won't work like that. The lamp wire (which is a negative) goes to the base of the transistor, the Batt + goes to the emitter of the transistor and the LED + goes to the collector of the transistor. It won't work the way you have it. Look at the second diagram in this thread. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&highlight=2010

Okay... I clearly goofed. The collector is the leftmost tine of the transistor, the base is the center tine, and the emitter is on the right, is that correct?

That second diagram is a bit confusing, though, as it's got a regulator (which I assume I won't need as I'm using only three AA batteries). Here's my second stab at it... doing my best to convert from the diagram to my situation. Let me know if I screwed up again:

4771

Thanks again for the assistance.


Edit: Just noticed that it says "clash sensor" where it should say "swing sensor" (I think). I'll revise the label next time around.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

It depends on which transistor you use as to the pin Layout. On the TIP42C the leftmost pin is the base, the center is the collector and the rightmost is the collector. These pin layouts are different for different transistors.

[Jedi-Loreen]

It depends on which transistor you use as to the pin Layout. On the TIP42C the leftmost pin is the base, the center is the collector and the rightmost is the collector. These pin layouts are different for different transistors.
You have the word "collector" in there twice. Which pin is the emitter?

[Skottsaber]

The right most pin is the emitter.

[DaedalusKnight]

It depends on which transistor you use as to the pin Layout. On the TIP42C the leftmost pin is the base, the center is the collector and the rightmost is the collector. These pin layouts are different for different transistors.



The right most pin is the emitter.

Okay... easily fixed. Here's the new diagram, with enhanced specificity:

4772

[Rhyen Skytracker]

The only thing I see is that the switch needs to go between the on/off and one of the off. It does not go to the gnd for the switch.

[DaedalusKnight]

The only thing I see is that the switch needs to go between the on/off and one of the off. It does not go to the gnd for the switch.

That's where the original switch is located, though... Would a new switch not work if I placed it in the same place as the old?

The two "off" wires are connected to a switch in the (original) LED housing that (as far as I can tell) would shut off the saber when the blade was manually retracted. I haven't taken apart that assembly yet, but I assume it's another momentary switch.

Perhaps they mislabeled the "gnd" wire, as it seems to be the other half of the activation circuit, not an actual ground.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

You need to replace the original switch with the switch you will use in your saber. It MUST be a momentary switch. You will not need the other "off" wire, just the one "off" and the "on/off" wires.

[DaedalusKnight]

You need to replace the original switch with the switch you will use in your saber. It MUST be a momentary switch. You will not need the other "off" wire, just the one "off" and the "on/off" wires.

Okay. Yes, I had planned on using a new switch, though I thought I would need to put it in the same place as the old switch. Does it matter which "off" wire? One is labeled "OFF" and the other is "OFF-" (OFF negative, I presume).

[Rhyen Skytracker]

On the Force Action lightsaber it has a limit switch that will turn the saber off when the blade retracts too. That is why you have 2 off wires. I normally use the off the is next to the on/off wire.

[DaedalusKnight]

On the Force Action lightsaber it has a limit switch that will turn the saber off when the blade retracts too. That is why you have 2 off wires. I normally use the off the is next to the on/off wire.

Okay. I'll give it a try. Now I just need to wait for my parts to be delivered.

Thanks again for the assistance.

[Terall]

Hi there,

Is it possible to use an LED string with the Force Action Soundboard?
I was thinking about using the LED wires from the Soundboard to activate a relay so the LED string could get power directly from the battery pack.
Currently I plan on using 4 AA NiMh rechargables, 4.8 volts total.
Do I still need resistors within the string if I use a buckpuck or another type of LED driver?
The LEDs are amber, 2V, 20mA, and I want to use about 80 to 100 of them. Wiring them 2 in series, 50 of those pairs in parallel, I would need extra wires and resistors and I'm worried about having so much in the blade.

I know, a lot of questions, but I'd greatly appreciate your help.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

You can wire a string blade to an economy board but you won't be able to get the ramp up down effect with it.

[Terall]

Thanks for the quick reply!

It's my first saber, so I don't need the scrolling effect.
With 4.8V, the board would put out ~4.3V and 350mA, right?
That wouldn't be enough to power an LED string, would it?

[Rhyen Skytracker]

With the force action board it will put out around 200 - 350 mA but with the new 2010 economy boards they only put out around 10 - 20 mA. You will need a PNP transistor to get enough current to power the LEDs.

[Terall]

Thanks again for answering so quickly.

So I would need a transistor, led driver or a constant current source with an output of 2A and 2V? I searched pretty much all day and can't find one...

Unless I completely missed something (which is likely, because I have next to no clue when it comes to electronics)...

Or I could wire two 1A, 3.5V output LED drivers in parallel. Then I would have 2A and 3.5 V (the voltage doesn't change, does it?) and a 4 watt capable 1 ohm resistor would bring the voltage down to 2V... hmm

[Azmaria Dei]

constant current drivers supply constant current. it will supply whatever voltage the LEDs need as long as the batteries provide around the LED forward voltage +1V to the driver. as for a 2A driver, dealextreme has one if i remember right. the new 1.5A driver board that Tim sells should also cover plenty of LEDs as well.

however, using a transistor for the power drive for that, you might need to check the power out from it based on the trigger amperage to the base... it probably won't put out enough power to drive that 2A driver OR anything at 2A...

Rhyen will need to chime in on that though...

[Terall]

Since I'm from Germany, shipping costs are a factor when ordering from abroad.
I also thought about buying an 1500mA driver and driving 75 LEDs with it. Or a bit more and slightly underdrive them....

The LED drivers I've been looking at put out a set voltage.

Well, more research seems to be in order...

[Azmaria Dei]

deal extreme ships from china and they have good shipping rates to most of the world...

[Rhyen Skytracker]

We use the transistor so that we can turn on the LED when the sound board turns on the LED. We are boosting the power going to the LED by using the TIP42 PNP transistor. If you used a driver you would still have to use a different switch for the LED and sound. The transistor will give you more than enough power for most of the LEDs we use and you will only need one switch. (the economy boards use a momentary switch)

[Terall]

Couldn't we use a relay running from the boards LED wires?
It would activate when the momentary switch is pressed because in the original setup the LED lights up when the switch is pressed.

If we then Y-splice power from the battery, running to the relay, we could power the LED driver and the LED string.

I have no idea how to use the transistors and if they would be boosting the power enough...

[Skottsaber]

Relays have been used but fall short in efficiency and delicacy to the transistors.

[Azmaria Dei]

yeah relays require energy to stay activated (electromagnet etc...) and while a transistor needs a small amount of energy to do that as well, the required power is far less AND you won't accidentally trip it off and on when you hit something.

[Terall]

So the type of TIP42 transistor wouldn't matter? TIP42, TIP42 A, TIP42 B, TIP42 C are all good for this kind of setup?

Sorry for taking up so much of your time with this...

[Skottsaber]

Any TIP42 will do ;)

[Rhyen Skytracker]

To use a relay would need a latching switch while the sound board needs a momentary switch and the new 2010 sound boards don't have enough current to energize the coil of the relay, that is why we use the transistor. Plus the transistor will put out more current than the small relays that would fit in the hilt of a saber. I use the TIP42Cs myself, but it doesn't matter as long as they are TIP42 PNP transistors.

[Terall]

Ok, thanks a lot. As soon as I get all the components together, I'll assemble them and let you know how it all worked out :-)

[[MuffinMan]]

Thanks, that's really clear and helpful. What speaker did you use? Was it the one from the hasbro saber, or did you swith to a different one? On a related note, how loud is it?

[Rhyen Skytracker]

I use the speaker from the TCSS store. It is the best one we have found for the size that will fit in a hilt.

[FavaSSJ5]

hi, the economy version lightsaber with sound from hasbro is this one?
http://www.brianstoys.com/store/images/products/Star%20Wars/2009/clonewars/Access/2009CW_Access_AnakinSaber.jpg

http://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img/item/169/076/882/IZnpIo2ydoAaK07.jpg

im from brazil, and i dont know where to find

thanks

[Jedi Mynock]

FavaSSJ5, PLEASE do not post links to stores other then thecustomsabershop.com.

but in answer to your question, yes those are the sabers we refer to as ECONO. pretty much any of the cheap ones of that style can be used. just make sure to look up the proper wiring for each type, as they all can be slightly different.
the best one to use, as far as size, is the new Obi-Wan "2010" that includes a DVD of some saber fights from the TV show. its a smaller chip and has improved sound. i actually want to buy one myself!
this is what it looks like
http://www4.baby99.co.uk/f-3/149203/Hasbro-Star-Wars-Electronic-Obi-Wan-Kenobi-Lightsaber-DVD.jpg

[Piraterogue]

Has anyone used "Star Wars The Clone Wars General Grievous Spinning Electronic Lightsaber" for the electronics? I cannot find the hasbro obi-wan in a store locally, but I can find the General Grievous one.

Also do the hasbro sound boards run a RGB led?

[cardcollector]

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12207-2010-General-Grievous-Hasbro-Economy-Board-Guide

[Loachri MacTalabh]

i actually want to buy one myself!

I got mine today!:D:D:D:D:D
Funny story; I was telling my brother-in-law my plans to use one, and the extras (clash sensor, and two motion sensors). He asked where do I get the saber? I said at Wallie world (Wal-Mart). Then he asked where do I get the sensors? Well you all know TCSS. He said "get in lets go". I said "it's a bit far". "Where is it?" he said, I told him "In Washington". He said "I don't think we can make that trip". I told him "I can be there in five minutes, on the internet". So he put a $20 in my hand and told to "get it done". I said "OK"

[Skottsaber]

That is just far too epic for words...

[Jedi Mynock]

yeah i have one now. and i am debating on what saber to put it in haha
just got a starkiller too. thinking aobut trying to cramfu the obi and vader econo boards in there, each running one of the die from an RGB (blue from obi, red from vader) so i can switch between starkiller's light or dark side versions.
not sure if it will work. two cards sharing pretty much... everything?

[Piraterogue]

yeah i have one now. and i am debating on what saber to put it in haha
just got a starkiller too. thinking aobut trying to cramfu the obi and vader econo boards in there, each running one of the die from an RGB (blue from obi, red from vader) so i can switch between starkiller's light or dark side versions.
not sure if it will work. two cards sharing pretty much... everything?

Funny enough your question is answered by the answer to my question. The General Grievous soundboard has both dark and light sound effects.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12207-2010-General-Grievous-Hasbro-Economy-Board-Guide

I have not built it yet so I can answer any more about it, but that thread is what I am working off of.

[cardcollector]

yeah i have one now. and i am debating on what saber to put it in haha
just got a starkiller too. thinking aobut trying to cramfu the obi and vader econo boards in there, each running one of the die from an RGB (blue from obi, red from vader) so i can switch between starkiller's light or dark side versions.
not sure if it will work. two cards sharing pretty much... everything?

The two boards sound the same. Why not just use a Dpdt switch from the main led leads and wire the rgb up to each? Same principle as the grevious board, just no sound change. I did this with an older hasbro board... Search lightning strike v3 under my user and you should find something.

[Jedi Mynock]

yeah i hooked up my obi econo in my MHS this weekend and realized how neutral the font is. pretty good for either jedi or sith. really like the vader ignition sound on the PC-L darkmeat though. havent decided what to do in my starkiller just yet. might go PC-L with accessable SD so i can switch fonts and put my LED on a JST so i can swap out for colors. but then there is the crystal LED... thinking about RGB for that on the accent pad of PC-L, or i could use a mace FX card...
blehhhh so many possibilities! but i am not in a rush at all. going to take my time on this SK.
thanks everyone for the pointers!
*goes back to enjoying the obi econo installed in MHS*

[Arashi]

I just picked up one of the Obi econo sabers to cannibalize the board out of and I was wondering if you can replace the swing and clash sensors with the ones from the TCSS shop...and if you can, would it improve the responsiveness of the sounds? I was noticing that the swing sounds with the default setup and parts are a bit wonky...they keep playing when you stop moving the blade, etc.

Thanks
Arashi

[Jedi-Loreen]

Yes, you can replace them with the sensors from the Store.

This question has been asked before.

[Arashi]

I did a search, but it came back with so many returns that I couldn't find the information I was looking for.

What about the second half of my question...would using the TCSS sensors make a difference in the swing sounds not seeming to match up with the movement of the saber?

Arashi

[Big_Furry_Oaf]

I replaced the swing and it's a pretty drastic change. And it saves a lot of space, too. You can just clip off the bulky hasbro sensor and solder the new sensor to those wires. You can also solder directly to the board but...
I tried the replace the clash that way and I think I accidentally ruined the sensor or that part of the board (or both).

[Rhyen Skytracker]

To get more accurate use 2 of the swing sensors from the store. Have one vertical and one horizontal and wire them in parallel. That way you will pick up motion from 2 axis like the MRs and the PC do.

[Arashi]

Thanks for the tip Rhyen

[Jedi Mynock]

So last night i was trouble shooting what turned out to be a bad tactile switch. When i had it apart i tried to clean up my rats nest wiring, and replace the swing as mentioned above. Somewhere, i must have arced/shorted something despite having the kill key installed. Now when i remove my kill key, i get 3 beeps from my obi card, and when i try to ignite, nothing. Not even my led turns on from my corbin board.
This is all being powered by a trustfire 18650 li-ion. Tried putting it on the tenergy charger to reset the pcb. No joy.

Any idea where to start? About to wire up my spare 18650 but its a pain. Also curious about those 3 beeps from the speaker (beeeep...beepbeep)

Thanks in advance!

[Jedi-Loreen]

I thought a Corbin board needed at least 6V.

[Jedi Mynock]

This is the old v1 board. Used to run it on 4AA energizer rechargables and workd fine. Upgraded to 3.7v li-ion trustfire 18650 a week ago and worked fantastic with exception of a glitchy momentary tactile. About to rewire from scratch and rebuild my switch box (version 3.0 now lol)
Just curious what the beeping is and what would cause everything to not work now. Hope i didnt fry anything.

Thanks Loreen!

[Azmaria Dei]

the three beeps means the button is depressed either when the board gets power or within about a second or two of it getting power. replace your switch and see how it acts.

[Jedi Mynock]

Ehhh... i had already removed the switch and was just touching the wires tgether. The beeping happens as soon as a remove the kill plug or charger plug.
Didnt touch it today. Need a breather so i can attack it fresh. Thanks Az!

[Darth Scorn]

There is a Yoda saber that came out in 2005 I believe the same time episode 3 was released there were two switches one that would turn the saber on and another that would activate yodas voice to talk to you as you use the saber I'm not sure what the saber was called that's why I explain so much but do you wire these up the same way or is there a diagram that someone could point me to please and thank you

[Freedan_Nadd]

First off, Thank you guys for being so helpfull. I have been reading the forums (even ones not applying to my issues) for HOURS a day. So, I would like to solder the momentary switch but A.) I am not quite sure what you mean by just soldering a spot, since there is no solder point, and I am not good at soldering, AND this is my first saber I could really ue either a Chart or better description PLEASE? I cant get another if I screw up this one, my vader econo Hasbro is that new one attached to the l.e.d that nobody has shown yet and I am not breaking my Luke R.O.T.J. Please give me the low down this 1 time (I know it is do it yourself, but I have read and read and am still not getting this issue) The picture with color dots... Yellow is what I think you mean, and/or green as well but How do you solder without a point for it?.... The other is a close up so maybe if you could guide me then I can attach it o its sled and put it in and get'er rippin!! (I hope lol) So k, heres the board links, and I will add a few of the hilt (my first, dreml only freehand!
Whole board http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/soundcard001.jpg
Board w/ Dots and Switch Questions http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/soundcard001-2.jpg
A close up (either for you 2 show me, or help me see something I am missing) http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/closer-1.jpg

A few angles of the hilt... http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/Star%20Wars/sabertopangledemitter.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/Star%20Wars/saberangle.jpg
Front http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/Star%20Wars/saberfrontfull3.jpg Back http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/Star%20Wars/saberbackfull2.jpg
Side http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/Star%20Wars/saberleftsidefull.jpg right side http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/Star%20Wars/saberrightsidefull3.jpg
And a closeup on my grip!! http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/SoCalledTragedydrummer/Star%20Wars/saberrightsidebottom.jpg Thanks all Hope you can help

[Kaide]

Has any one tried the board from Hasbro Star Wars Force Tech Electronic Lightsaber - Mace Windu?

Will this one work like the suggested sabers from the original post?

[captain_mills]

(wrong of me, I know)

I am bumping this thread because I'd also like to know if the "Hasbro Star Wars Force Tech Electronic Lightsaber - Mace Windu" saber also works similarly. Also, does anyone have a sound clip of what this one sounds like? I had used the Obi-Wan in my last saber and would like a slightly different sound in the next one...

Thanks in advance!

[AlaskaBat]

(wrong of me, I know)

I am bumping this thread because I'd also like to know if the "Hasbro Star Wars Force Tech Electronic Lightsaber - Mace Windu" saber also works similarly. Also, does anyone have a sound clip of what this one sounds like? I had used the Obi-Wan in my last saber and would like a slightly different sound in the next one...

Thanks in advance!

If you want a different sound for the new one--go with a Vader soundboard.

[dgregory]

I've used a couple 2010 hasbro boards so far, but I'm trying the Anakin for the first time. It looks like the Vader board but is wired for a tactile switch like Mace and Qui-gon. However, it also has the two switch leads labeled "SW1" like the non-tactile hasbros like Vader and Obi-wan. Anyone tried to use those instead of the tactile leads? I'm going to wire up to them and see what happens but I thought someone else might have already tried it.

[jcook1023]

hey guys, i cross-posted this in another thread as well, but i was reading this as well as another one and i'm a bit confused and even after reading through the MR/Hasbro FX Wiring Diagram thread, i'm not 100% positive i understand fully... im building a saber using the seoul p4 wiring kit with the premium speaker and a mace windu card...would you be able to confirm my thoughts on this wiring and let me know if i need to think differently? it seems as though i have the gray wire going to my clash sensor with a short blue wire coming off - this gets tied into the LED (+) wire, while the bundle of multicolors (7 wires) runs to LED (-)? Do I just solder all 7 of these wires together with the (-) lead coming off the LED? Also, from the battery pack - red goes to battery/speaker (+), while black goes to battery (-), and brown goes to speaker (-)... i have two blue wires coming to the old switch - those go to the leads coming off the push on/off switch that came with the kit, yeah? now, my kit came with a resistor - i splice that into the LED (-) or battery (-)? it appears as though the MHS LED kit (resistor tutorial) thread shows the resistor going to battery (-)/LED (-), but with the soundcard in there, that throws me for a loop... i'm not doing any wiring yet - saving that for next weekend with my brother in law who does electronics wiring for a living, but i just want to make sure i've got the right idea coming into things... i know i'm a bit late on adding to this thread but if anyone would be able to either confirm my thoughts or correct them, that'd be a HUGE help. thanks everyone!

[Flynn1138]

Thanks for making this! I just finished wiring the LED in my first saber yesterday. I might as well crack it back open and install sound on it.

[cmd73]

Was looking for something like this, thanks...

[NecroTear]

"Feel free to ask me about any other ones you may run across".

Hi Rhyen,
I have the sound board from a Darth Maul saber and am not sure about it, there is no speaker and i cannot determine if there is a motion sensor or crash sensor.
Have you every use one?

[simified]

Feel free to ask me about any other ones you may run across.

Hello Rhyen I had a question, have you ever seen a board like this or better yet happen to have a wiring diagram?

http://s13.postimg.org/l7b8wtep3/P7303516.jpg
http://s27.postimg.org/rnw6ydmqr/P7303515.jpg

[Matt Thorn]

Now where on earth did that come from? :shock: A sound/light board built into the blade!? And yet the LEDs seem strangely spaced. It's not like any Force FX I've ever seen.

[JakeSoft]

Hello Rhyen I had a question, have you ever seen a board like this or better yet happen to have a wiring diagram?

http://s13.postimg.org/l7b8wtep3/P7303516.jpg


That is a Hasbro Ultimate FX board. I've used one before. The green wires are for the speaker, but I don't remember anything else off hand. I might have more info in an old project notebook. I'll check later and post up if I find any thing. They are decent boards if you can get them figured out. I've run mine for about a year now.

[simified]

Now where on earth did that come from? :shock: A sound/light board built into the blade!? And yet the LEDs seem strangely spaced. It's not like any Force FX I've ever seen.

I know, right? I could not find anything on this board aside from it being from a Qui-Gon saber.


That is a Hasbro Ultimate FX board. I've used one before. The green wires are for the speaker, but I don't remember anything else off hand. I might have more info in an old project notebook. I'll check later and post up if I find any thing. They are decent boards if you can get them figured out. I've run mine for about a year now.

Yes the green wires are for the speaker, I'm going to guess one would remove the LED strip and bridge all nine contact points for the positive to the LED thought that is only a guess. Regardless any information you could provide me will be greatly appreciated! :D

[JakeSoft]

Yes the green wires are for the speaker, I'm going to guess one would remove the LED strip and bridge all nine contact points for the positive to the LED thought that is only a guess. Regardless any information you could provide me will be greatly appreciated!

Yeah, something like that. I seem to recall that the A and B contacts go to the clash sensor. I cut the LED strip off just above the clash sensor though, so I didn't end up needing to use those because I could re-use the stock clash sensor that way. I was driving my LED via other means, so I'm not sure about the numbered contacts on the LED strip. You might also try the power transistor trick that is commonly used. You won't get power-on/off ramping, but it'll probably work pretty reliably.

[JakeSoft]

I found this YouTube video (it's not mine). I watched this before I took on my project. I didn't follow this guy's techniques exactly, but it should help you get a handle on the basics of working with the board.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BazhFnV0Fq4

One tip is that I think it makes more sense to identify the "non-demo mode" wires and simply twist/solder them together. It takes up far less room in the hilt vs. leaving the switch in there.

[simi]

I found this YouTube video (it's not mine). I watched this before I took on my project. I didn't follow this guy's techniques exactly, but it should help you get a handle on the basics of working with the board.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BazhFnV0Fq4

One tip is that I think it makes more sense to identify the "non-demo mode" wires and simply twist/solder them together. It takes up far less room in the hilt vs. leaving the switch in there.

OMG THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!!! This video couldn't have been any better! A friend of mine had a stunt saber and his brother had given me that sound board from an old Qui-Gon saber he had luckily saved not knowing what he had. I did this once before with a Luke ROTJ board about 6 years ago so I wanted to try this and help them out. Thanks to you their saber has sound so on behalf of all three of us thank you.

[JakeSoft]

I came across this thread and it really ad a ton of info I was looking for. I am going to build a pvc saber for my daughter for her birthday coming up and I just want to be sure I'm understanding it correctly.
I'll be using a cheapo sound board from a '99 Qui Gon saber, not the one at the beginning of this thread, mine has the clash sensor mounted on the board already. So here are my 2 questions. Which would be a better led choice in blue from the shop, the Rebel Star or the Cree? Next question is would a 2AA battery pack be sufficient to power it since the board only outputs 350ma but the forward voltage on the Rebel Star is 3.4?

The Ultimate FX sabers and other cheapo Hasbro sabers that these boards are out of typically run on 3 AA batteries (4.5 Volts), so 2 AA cells is probably not enough. You'll also need more power to drive either the Cree or the Rebels in blue because you'll be looking for a forward voltage of at least 3.4V. You'll only get 3 volts out of 2 AA cells.

[avolakia]

Please i have a project to use blade builders econo soundboard on my own saber hilt, there is some scheme to add flash on clash to this board or a clash button?
Thanks a lot

[BZWingZero]

The econo soundboard has a built-in flicker on clash.

It is not possible to add a separate flash on clash with this board.

You might be able to add a button wired separately from the econo board that lights an extra LED die when you press it. Pretty much wired exactly as you would /without/ a soundboard at all.

[avolakia]

The econo soundboard has a built-in flicker on clash.

It is not possible to add a separate flash on clash with this board.

You might be able to add a button wired separately from the econo board that lights an extra LED die when you press it. Pretty much wired exactly as you would /without/ a soundboard at all.

Thanks a lot

[gustan]

You can drive a LUX I Led directly from the Economy hasbro sound card. I have done it over 70 times and have not had any problems. But as Card Collector said, DO NOT TRY TO PUT 6 VOLTS TO A LED WITH OUT SOME TYPE OF DRIVER OR RESISTOR. The economy sound card does act as a driver.

Hey Rhyen. Thanks a bunch for this post. I at trying to run a q5 led, which from my understanding can work under the same voltage reqs as a q4. However, I want to put 6 volts (4aa) through a board exactly like the one this thread is about, and you stated here that it would fry the LED. Would the Q5 be able to take this voltage, or would I need to put in a 2.7 ohm resistor so it won't burn out?

Also, would the led require a heatsink running it like this? I'd assume it would, but it would be a lot easier if I didn't have to cram it in if I didn't have to.

[FenixFire]

All high intensity LEDs should be mounted to a heatsink if running at the full max current.

[gustan]

Thanks again Fenixfire. I got the whole saber planned out at this point, just need to figure out if 6v can run fine on a q5 without a resister. In another thread, Rhyen said he can run an led off of 6v without a resistor, but here he said you can't. Just need some clarification.

This is for a blue q5 thats running at 1amp with a fv of 3.5. Just don't want to burn it out. The input current is 6v from 4 AA

[FenixFire]

Thanks again Fenixfire. I got the whole saber planned out at this point, just need to figure out if 6v can run fine on a qt without a resister. In another thread, Rhyen said he cam run an led off of 6v without a resistor, but here he said you can't. Just need some clarification.

This is for a blue q5 thats running at 1amp with a fv of 3.5. Just don't want to burn it out. The input current is 6v from 4 AA
To be safe I would always do a resistor if connecting it to the battery at all. If both leads go from the board to the LED, I would use a multimeter to see what voltage and what amperage is being fed to the LED before hooking it up. Then use that to determine resistors.

[gustan]

Perfect, thanks mucho. My dumb head didn't even think of using a multimeter XD As much as I do think it would work without one, I'd add one as well just to extend the length of the bulb.

On a side-note, my 1999 Qui-Gon jinn saber had the same board as the one featured in this post, not the one that Matt Thorn had presented. I find this very odd, but do not mind one bit knowing that I can run 6v through it XD

I'll take a pic and upload it for reference when I get home in 3-4 hrs.

[gustan]

I made a tut on how to make a neat enclosure, and it worked perfectly...Then I put the battery in backwards on accident (+ to -) and poof, board stopped working. Crud. I can hear a slight pop of the speaker when I flip the switch, but thats all. There is some, yet very minimal voltage, going to the speaker and led wires. I bridged the fuse, and it had no effect...

It looks like one of the caps blew. There is yellowish hard residue on the board. Is that normal?

http://s32.postimg.org/kejwcmfg4/20160513_180831.jpg

[Jay-mo]

Phenomenal thread! This has helped me so much with older sound cards.

Currently trying to figure out how to add a recharge port to this setup with an 18650- lots of research... With p
lenty more to go!

[Wrecker]

Does anyone know if this will work with a 12w RRBB SaberForge LED and a 18650 from the store? These two came from a botched custom saber job that I bought, and I have the exact same board that OP used.

[FenixFire]

Get a tri-Cree it will be significantly brighter. The dice are are more properly spaced, and the heatsink is better at dicipating the heat because of the spacing, resulting in the three XP-E2 dice being brighter than the 4 XB dice. If wanting purple with blue FoC get a red, rB, rB. If wanting purple with red FoC get Red, RB, Red. If you want to use it the setup should work since the dice are just an older model XLamp if it was purchased within in the last year. Just use a MOSFET for each die. Heat shrink the entire mosfet the heatsink on it is conductive and will short out if they touch.