Need help deciding on new saber shroud design

[cannibal869]

Howdy everyone!

I've been kind of debating on the design of my next saber.
Here's my idea - I originally wanted this to sort of look like a TCSS version of Mace Windu's saber...
Obviously this would be a purple blade saber - courtesy of a rebel RGB or (pending) rebel RBW -
I have an MR Anakin board and am awaiting the tutorial on the clash flash thing.
I've gotten the blue + red = purple quite nice being driven in series. I'm still tinkering with how to get the clash flash thing working. Strangely enough, I've gotten the main blade just fine by iteself and the clash flash going just fine by itself, but I can't seem to get both to happen together. Maybe I need another circuit or power extender or something...

But in the meantime, I have some general design ideas.
TCSS MHS based Windu-like basic underlying design with a crystal chamber choke and organic dragon inspired overlay. It will have a latching vandal switch and probably a master power switch so the MR board doesn't drain the batteries too quickly. I'll be using 4AAA for now.

I hope I haven't offended anyone - the saber design as you will see below is very influenced by Masters Do-Clo, Fenderbender, and Allaera (to whom I humbly bow down and offer gratitude for inspiration).

I originally thought V1 (on top) was a little *too* much like Master Do-Clo's own Dragon which he has posted here in another thread. So I came up with V2.

Just wanted to kind of get some comments and maybe some suggestions if people think things should be changed? BTW, this particular saber will be my personal "hero" saber. Kind of the culmination of what (little) I've learned so far about sabersmithing. I plan on powder coating the shroud maybe a sort of metallic purple and will probably paint the grooves in the MHS black.

pictures is clickable...(BTW, this is a side view of the saber. I can't seem to remove the button on the saberbuilder website)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3625/3334863230_d06aa50a72.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3625/3334863230_d06aa50a72.jpg?v=0)

Thanks for any help,
Chris

[FenderBender]

Looks good. I would alter the angle of the shroud around the crystal shamber so that more of it shows, that or move the chamber window to the top side where the Mace switches would normally be. Other than that, my 'personal' recommendation is to lose the "tail" thing, its just a little much imo.

[cannibal869]

I actually kinda like the shroud curve near the choke cause it reminds me of the mace windu saber. I think enough of the crystal should be able to shine through and the part that doesn't will be reflected by the inner portion of the shroud near that area (which I'll have to remember to polish - sigh)...

[edit] On second thought, it might look nice with them relocated a bit higher... hmm... let me do another sketch...

Hmm... I'll have to play with the tail a bit more. Maybe I'll take your advice and just lose it.

I tried to keep in mind Obi-Wan's saying "an elegant weapon, for a more civilized age"

[cannibal869]

Ah..ok reworked it a little bit.

Actually, I kinda like this design now... Thanks for the suggestion FenderBender!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3316/3334165641_dda6082f6f.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3316/3334165641_dda6082f6f.jpg?v=0)

[Count Malik]

I like it too. Very Mace Windu-ish...

[Rhyen Skytracker]

I like it alot better now. It looks much better with out the tail and I think you will be pleased now that more of the crystal chamber is showing.

[Sairon]

I'm liking the new shroud, matches the saber well.

[$tarkiller]

Insane dremmel-fu skills you must have to complete this saber. This will be a-friggin-mazing once you get it done. Can't wait to see the final product!!!!

[cannibal869]

Howdy all, just a quick update:

I have a new found respect and admiration for the work of Master Do-Clo and others who create complex shrouds...

One word of advice for those trying to do a somewhat complicated shroud: Make lots of photocopies. As you can see, I traced this shroud in 3 different sections (hence the 3 cutouts).

I used a sharpie marker to trace the cutouts onto the sink tube. The caveat, which has been mentioned before, is that even though the sharpie is supposed to be "permanent", it can be wiped off with a sweaty grip. So I prefer to quickly dremel in the outline onto the sink tube before it all gets smudged. This way, your outline is permanent. You can just go over it again later to get all the details in. The curved sanding wheel is excellent for fine-tuning the sharp curves.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3590/3343413122_a11f391569.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3590/3343413122_a11f391569.jpg?v=0)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3323/3342578825_7faefb72e0.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3323/3342578825_7faefb72e0.jpg?v=0)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3330/3343413206_654ac0ef85.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3330/3343413206_654ac0ef85.jpg?v=0)

[cannibal869]

Thanks for all the comments guys!

A couple of hours Dremeling and...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3640/3342914399_52d727fa3f.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3640/3342914399_52d727fa3f.jpg?v=0)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3392/3342914339_ae9e726baa.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3392/3342914339_ae9e726baa.jpg?v=0)

Preview of the shroud on the saber
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3610/3342914285_b591fa009f.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3610/3342914285_b591fa009f.jpg?v=0)

[swear000]

thanks for sharing that. It is very helpful to see your technique. I like the way the shroud looks on that hilt. If any powdercoating were to be attempted, would you recommend it before or after the dremel work?

[cannibal869]

thanks for sharing that. It is very helpful to see your technique. I like the way the shroud looks on that hilt. If any powdercoating were to be attempted, would you recommend it before or after the dremel work?

that's a really good question - I don't really know the answer yet. I think you can mask off the areas you don't want powdercoated (i.e. the inside of the shroud). I think they mentioned putting aluminum foil as a cover over the areas you don't want coated too... I'll post progress pics and let you know how it turns out.

-C

[Sairon]

That saber looks great.

[Mat Katarn]

cannibal, that is most excellent. good job

[Darth_DevilGuy]

excellent work man

[cannibal869]

here are some updated pics...

Anti-Vandal latching lighted ring switch - note the bent tabs.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3610/3347810007_268f15dd54.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3610/3347810007_268f15dd54.jpg?v=0)

Holes cut out in the hilt and shroud. The hilt is made of the fluted section which was drilled for the guarded switch.
I just got rid of the inner "lip" since the diameter needs to be 16mm (which is almost exactly the same as the guarded switch hole.
The emitter is unscrewed and not in this pic since I didn't need it for measurements.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3067/3347809943_f7f36bd737.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3067/3347809943_f7f36bd737.jpg?v=0)

All together
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3626/3347810115_39427914a8.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3626/3347810115_39427914a8.jpg?v=0)

Notice the bent tabs allow for clearance inside.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3649/3347810143_e37e9f29a7.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3649/3347810143_e37e9f29a7.jpg?v=0)

[swear000]

yup...that is exactly the problem with those switches. They practically span the whole diameter of the hilt. Wait till you start running wires through...argh!

[cannibal869]

yup...that is exactly the problem with those switches. They practically span the whole diameter of the hilt. Wait till you start running wires through...argh!

Eh... it'll be ok. Not all that much worse or different from the guarded switches in the store.

[Sairon]

what colour is the antivandal switchs led?

[cannibal869]

I'm guessing all of the switches are white. The plastic semi-translucent ring appears to be what's colored. For the one that's pictured, it's a yellow ring. I also have a white ring, which may ultimately be the one that I use for this saber. We'll see. It's too bad they don't just make the rings interchangeable so you can decide what color you want it to be.

In either case, it was a PITA to find latching vandal switches in 16mm size. I had to get these from Australia I think.

Oh and I've figured out that you can actually light the LED with only 5-6V of power. Not super bright, but it works just fine. Even 4.5V works. I'm guessing the 12V label is the absolute maximum voltage the LED and/or switch can take before it dies.

[Darth Cipher]

i know this post is a couple weeks old but....nice work dude, thats pretty sick

[cannibal869]

Thanks! It's still not much changed - waiting for some parts and for a toaster oven so I can do the powder coat.

Also, I wanted to do a white clash flash, but I think perhaps that will have to wait for a while. Besides, there's no tutorial yet. I've noticed that between the Seoul RGB and the Tri-Rebel RGB, the Seoul gives better light output with red + blue = purple. I think this is because of the optics and because the Seoul RGB leds are all smack together underneath a single flat chip. I'm going to experiment with some more optics and maybe use a modified reflector lens instead to see how that stacks up with the Tri-Rebel.

[cannibal869]

Shroud is now powdercoated... :mrgreen:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3538/3430416341_a1d22101e7.jpg?v=0 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3538/3430416341_a1d22101e7.jpg?v=0)

[taoist jedi]

Man that looks sweet! nice work.

[Sairon]

Looking good, can't wait to see it finished.