Jay-gon's Brass Saber #12 Build (US 2.1 w/ green V)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

This topic will fllow the build process for a saber I call Brass Saber #12...it is the 12th one I've built that has brass tubing for sleeves or parts of the hilt. it will consist of a style 8 bladeholder, a ribbed extension, a 5" double threaded female extension and an MPS pommel style 3 v2, with insert style 6. It will run an Ultrasound 2.1 (after they come back from programming, of course), 2 Li-Ion trustfire batteries, a premium speaker, and will have a green Lux V to light up an Ultrasabers UltraEdge blade. It will also feature some powder coated parts! Here's what I'll start with:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/c78a7033.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/17fcfcf8.jpg
The blade holder was pc'd up to the top of the neck...it looks good like that!
Tim also did the ribbed extension, and the double threaded female, too. I plan on using the brass tube to create a sleeve for the saber, but I have something else in mind for the rear grip than the usual scribe lines from my tubing cutter. more on that when I get to that point!

The first thing to do was cut the brass tube to length. I'll use a metal cut-off blade on my compound miter saw for that. I started by removing the flange on the tube:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/410e3e9f.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/0de8c438.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/6b028040.jpg

Now to cut it to the proper length:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/e311272c.jpg
I decided to do my usual angled cut on the end, and set the blade angle to 22.5deg. and cut the tube:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/9550adb6.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/16e86daf.jpg
I cut this nice and slow, with out forcing the blade through it, so there are no burns on the tube.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/58d43b56.jpg
Yeah, that'll do! Next step, cutting the grip window!

Actually the next step in the sleeve fabrication is de-burring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/1a8d4eb6.jpg
I'll use an 120-grit sanding drum on my rotary tool to start with. I started with the angled cut first, and made sure to get all of the edges:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/6db96186.jpg
Done:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/9d8c2d0e.jpg
I flipped it around and did the other end as well:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/b87944d8.jpg
Next, I hit by hand with a piece on 220 grit paper:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/6f093690.jpg
Smooooth!!

Just a quick check of the length:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/dc351494.jpg
And I was ready to start on the grip window for the ribbed extension:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/7bfdb24f.jpg
I put on the pattern that I made a while ago, and took it to the vise....

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Okay, with the part secured in the vise, and the pattern line up where I wanted it, it was time to start cutting! I'll be using a heavy-duty reinforced cut-off wheel to do the cutting:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/ecae1d79.jpg
when I do this, I always cut about 1/16th of an inch above the pattern...that way i have some extra material to work with if I don't get a very straight cut. Take it slow, and move the cutter in the direction it's spinning, as this will make it easier to control:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/8b261f90.jpg
I start with the shortest cuts first....for no particular reason, I guess....I do the longer cuts on the sides next:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/94f6ccb8.jpg
I rotated it in the vise a bit to do the other side:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/daf2fc4b.jpg
I made sure to stop short of the corners, because I want rounded, radiused corners....i'll use the cut-off wheel to remove the extra piece by cutting across the corners:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/092c6585.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/5eb2bc80.jpg
Be careful not to go too far with these cuts...you don't want to get into the edges and leave a nick that you can't get out later. After you do all of the corners, it will fall right out:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/ab998276.jpg
I used the cutting wheel to remove some more of the excess material from the corners:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/efde9b56.jpg
Here's a better view:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/24947bdd.jpg
I did all four corners, and then changed the cutting wheel out for the sanding drum!

With the sanding drum, I can get a near-perfect radius in the corners:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/bd090aeb.jpg
I make sure to use a slow oscillating movement when doing this to spread out the wear on the sanding drum. Take your time and don't force it, or you may have the sanding drum junp out of the window and skitter across the tube...I know, I had that happen to me when I did the tube for my BS-2 saber.

When you're done, it'll look likethis:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/cf5a9453.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/76b768ec.jpg
Ta-Daaa! a nice, radiused corner! I did the other three and put away the rotary tool for now. To square up the straight cuts, I prefer to use a hand file:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/5c13105f.jpg
You'll have a bit more control over how much material you remove this way, as opposed to using the sanding drum on the rotary tool. I did all four edges:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/f233ffbe.jpg
And then smoothed them out some more by hand with some 220-grit sandpaper:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/2cf6bcef.jpg
Now to test fit it and make sure it all looks good:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/71683126.jpg
I looked it over, and it needed a bit more straigthening out. I did it by hand again, t be sure not to take off too much. Here's the finished window:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/1334873e.jpg

[xl97]

dont you usually get your MHS parts turned down to a smaller OD? for these brass sleeves?

with this one being PC'd..did you have to get them turned down even smaller than normal?

[wadeh13]

Awesome saber Jay-Gon, I like the tutorials you do on your sabers. One question though, where do you get your brass tubing at?

[Lord Maul]

Proving once again why you are the build thread master :cool:

That saber is looking great. Brass and black just seem to go really well together.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

dont you usually get your MHS parts turned down to a smaller OD? for these brass sleeves?

with this one being PC'd..did you have to get them turned down even smaller than normal?
Nope, just took a chance and had Tim machine these down to 1.43" o.d, and they fit just fine!


Awesome saber Jay-Gon, I like the tutorials you do on your sabers. One question though, where do you get your brass tubing at?
I get my brass stuff from here:
http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307
Like xl mentioned, though, the MHS parts don't fit these tubes in stock form....you'll have to have Tim machine them down for them to fit.

[wadeh13]

Nope, just took a chance and had Tim machine these down to 1.43" o.d, and they fit just fine!


I get my brass stuff from here:
http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307
Like xl mentioned, though, the MHS parts don't fit these tubes in stock form....you'll have to have Tim machine them down for them to fit.


So at 1.43 they fit fine? How much room does PC take up? Is it less thatn .001?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

So at 1.43 they fit fine? How much room does PC take up? Is it less thatn .001?

It isn't any thicker than a couple coats of paint is what Tim told me! So I'd have to say yes, it's right around than .001".

[sekrogue1985]

wow that looks really really cool looking...!

[MasterRoop]

cool! i like!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

After a day of careful thought and deliberation, I decided to go ahead with brass rings for the rear grip section, taking inspiration from, and paying homage to this saber creation by our very own Jonitus:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/a549fc50.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/a549fc50.jpg)
That saber I believe, is still owned by Corbin_Das, creator of the Corbin Film blade diffusor sold through the store here at TCSS.

I drew up a quick pattern:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/90214769.jpg
I thought that looked good, so I took it out to the saw:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/485d22ce.jpg
And cut some pieces off:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/8f51aa27.jpg
The first piece I cut off was about 1" wide...the next two were each 1/2" wide. I also removed a piece that was about 7/16" wide, but that will not be used.

After that was done, I de-burred the pieces and test fit:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/f1e876a7.jpg
These will look good when polished up, I think. The plan right now is to have them held in place by a single stainless steel screw on the "bottom" of the saber. I'll need to drill and tap for those sscrews, and also drill for the recharge port...unless I can get it into the pommel....the MPS insert is the recharge port type....but it's a pain to get the wires around the speaker....and then the insert has to be attached some how to the battery pack....I'd prefer to do the recessed recharge port like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/9bfa8b05.jpg
It will be held in place like so:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/c62835d3.jpg
The white pvc will snap the recharge port in place when it drops into the hole for it.

[MasterRoop]

I like! great job!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

So it turn out that I didn't like the way the screws on the botto were holding the rings, so I rotated the 5" extension inside the main sleeve so the screws were on the side, insted. I then drilled four new holes on the opposing side:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/bd6f1c11.jpg
That's better! Not only does it look better to me, but it also has a better feel....almost gives you something to grip when holding the saber....the screws are nicely placed so that your fingers are right between them!

They are mostly in alignment, too:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/8a07fbb5.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/78bfc256.jpg
I had the drill bit walk on me a bit on one of these in the middle....these are the original holes I did....I was a bit more careful in linig it up in the press for the second set shown in the first picture.

It looks like, though, that I'll have to sut the screws down a bit....I need to get some 1/8 ones, one of these days, I guess:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/1074b10c.jpg
I don't want then interfering with the batteries when they get changed.

I guess about all that is left is to drill for the recharge port, the switch, and the blade retention screw. That, and the wiring, which I won't be able to do until I get the US v2.1's back from Ultrasabers....

[wadeh13]

Jay-Gon do you use a center drill before you use the drill bit? I have found that it cuts down on the walking of the drill bit. You can get them here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#3290a53/=dh8nu

[Jay-gon Jinn]

No, I just use the old fashioned method of a center punch and a hammer. I don't have enough trouble with it usually to warrant a $35 tool, I guess. I'll keep that in mind though.

[ConnorMichael]

The rings on the grip really set it apart. Great hilt Jay.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I did a little work to this one back in February, and forgot to post it then, so I'll do it now!

I drilled for the recharge port, and got started on the hilt's wiring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/cc1dfecc.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/0efaf2a9.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/0efaf2a9.jpg
This is using my new flush-mount set-up for the recharge port. There will not be a nut on the outside of this saber, just like CS-10 and BS-13.

With it all installed, I added a pair of batteries to test fit the battery pack:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/03ee825c.jpg
I also test fit the soundboard cradle:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/4e4d13ef.jpg
And soldered up the led:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/fe64617a.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/68c2b2c8.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/fce371d1.jpg
All that is left do do now is drill for the switch, drill and tap the blade holder for the blade retention set-screw, hone the socket for the UltraEdge blade, and install the US 2.1.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Anyway, after finally getting the Ultrasound 2.1's back and verifying that the switch bounce issue was taken care of with my son's saber, I set about finishing this one off!

So I finally drilled it for the switch hole, and added the capacitor to the switch leads:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4788.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4789.jpg
Many thanks to Ri-On Ozryel for pointing out a cheap, and easy fix for the switch bounce problem on these switches. I know it may not be the best fix for the issue, but for now it works!

I installed the switch (it is a pressed fit inside the hole, and is not going anywhere!) and began prepping a board for install:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4790.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4791.jpg
The soundboard will sit on my custom half-chassis and will be held securely by some foam monting tape. The use of the tape will also make it easier later on if anything goes wrong with the Ultrasound and it needs to be removed.

I pre-wired the board, and soldered the leads to the saber's wiring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4792.jpg
At this point, I installed the batteries and tested it....nothing...after a few hours of tedious repair work to my own wiring, replacement of the capacitor (one of the leds broke off the cap...not sure how that happened....I probably overheated it when I soldered it in) and replacement of the recharge port, I tested it again:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4793.jpg
About time!!! I went through the menu three times without any trouble, so I think it's time to assemble it!

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4794.jpg
Yeah, that looks gooood!!!

And yes, it still works:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4795.jpg

Beauty shots, and a video coming up soon! Stay tuned!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

FINAL PICS!!!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4084.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4084.jpg) http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4085.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4085.jpg) http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4086.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4086.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4089.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4089.jpg) http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4088.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4088.jpg) http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4087.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4087.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4090.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4090.jpg) http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4091.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4091.jpg) http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/th_100_4092.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4092.jpg)
The blade shown above is a JGJ style UltraEdge and is 30" long for an exposed length of 28". This saber also has a second blade, a JGJ style Dual-core Diffusion blade that is made using Corbin film mixed with clear gift wrap. This blade will help simulate the extension/retraction effect with the Ultrasounds ability to fade on/off the led.

Overall, I'd say this one didn't turn out too bad! There are a few issues with it though....there are some nicks on one of the rear grip rings that were in the part when I started and you can see those here:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Brass%20Saber%2012/100_4093.jpg

The brass is also of the same type as what was used on BS-10 and BS-14 and it will eventually be chrome if polished too much. So, it'll just get just wiped down with a damp, soft cloth after use and then dried off. Metal polishes cannot be used on the brass. The battery pack is also a little finicky....it takes few minutes to get it to come out and go back in properly.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Great saber, Jay.

Glad you finally got her finished. :D

[Kal El Rah]

Very-Very nice Jay-Gon.:)

[cardcollector]

That's what I'm Talkin' about!!:cool:
Oh Yeah!!

[Zook]

beautiful as usual.

[Misael]

Great saber Jay-gon. Very elegant. I look forward to your future projects.

Thank you again for yet another great tutorial. I appreciate the extra time you took for the awesome pictures. Very informative and detailed. You are a great teacher.

Cheers!

-------------------------------------------------------

May the Force be with you... always.

[Sairon]

Very nice, shiney shiney!

[Obiwan76]

That is awesome... Great work

[sekrogue1985]

drooling at the seems so shinny!

[winger]

Great build ! The pics are also very much appreciated. I learn a lot from these. (A picture can say more than a 1000 words.) Thank you!

[galen marek]

thankyou, i have learned much from your builds here.

[dgdve]

very impressive.. but i would expect a master such as yourself to use the "force" to manipulate the very metal itself. i mean i think i even saw you touching that file by hand, how primitive.. call me lazy but next time i wanna see more force powers.. so im giving it a 4.9/5.. but the flush mount recharge port is trick, very trick so lets just give it a 5 :D
~dave

p.s. I hear tim once used the mind trick to get his house painted while he toils away in the shop