UltraEdge Blade

[Darth Vane]

ok so i have a question and i am sure its been asked before. ( sorry if it has)

i know that some of the blades ultra sabers sells wont fit the blade holders for the MHS with out some sanding. will i have the same problem with the ultra edge blades or no?

[Lord Maul]

Same problem. Tim machines his blade holders to tighter tolerances than Alex, so all of his thin walled blades will have a hard time fitting.

[Darth Vane]

ok then. so do i only sand about 2 inches? from the bottom up?

[Lord Maul]

Yup, MHS blade holders are 2" deep

[eastern57]

I recommend you put some tape right about that 2" mark to keep the sanding clean.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You might also want to plug the end of the blade as well....you don't want sanding material inside the blade. Your other option is to go to McMaster-Carr.com and buy a 1" cylinder hone, and attach it to a power drill and hone the blade holder's blade socket until the UltraEdge fits.

[killphil]

Yeah, definetly plug the end and tape off the blade where it needs to be sanded like was suggested. You can also use a dremel if you have one, otherwise, plan to sand for at least an hour until it fits. Probably more. Sanding those things down by hand is very time consuming and a pain in the ass, but it is doable.

[Darth Vane]

lol alright i will be sure to cover the end up. and thanks for the advice about widening the hole on the blade holder but i dont realy want to do that, thanks though.

[Darth Vane]

just reading the Ultra Edge Thread on FX-Sabers and it seems like they do fit the mhs..... idk i gusse you never know till you try eh? unless you guys have already tried lol.

[Goodman]

I've tried it on blade holder #3, #4, #7, #8, and #13.

The UltraEdges don't fit, but it's no big deal. Tape the bottom off like people said (1.9" for me), and grind it down with a dremel from bottom of blade to bottom of tape, side to side, as you simultaneously rotate the blade so that you remove an equal amount of material over the entire surface. Measure often for a snug fit in the blade holder..

[eastern57]

I've tried it on blade holder #3, #4, #7, #8, and #13.

The UltraEdges don't fit, but it's no big deal. Tape the bottom off like people said (1.9" for me), and grind it down with a dremel from bottom of blade to bottom of tape, side to side, as you simultaneously rotate the blade so that you remove an equal amount of material over the entire surface. Measure often for a snug fit in the blade holder..

... or... you could just sand it... :rolleyes:

[killphil]

Dremeling is ALOT easier.

[draftnbyu]

it needs to be sanded dwon dercrease length?why?

[Goodman]

it needs to be sanded dwon dercrease length?why?

READ.

We're not reducing blade length, we're reducing blade width so UltraEdge blades fit in the slightly narrower MHS blade holders.



And yes, sanding is another way to do it, but I've found that dremeling with the right bit (carbide swirl grinder) can give more even results, and in much shorter time.

Though, if sandpaper is all you have, then at least use a sanding block or some sort of firm material behind the sand paper so it gives consistent pressure on the blade.

[FenderBender]

Or, if you happen to have a lathe;) You can measure off and take it down a bit to get a good fit. I have to do that with the regular Poly that I buy anyway so its no big deal.

[draftnbyu]

Or, if you happen to have a lathe;) You can measure off and take it down a bit to get a good fit. I have to do that with the regular Poly that I buy anyway so its no big deal.

lathe works nice for tubing. i use it when making led kits for cars.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Another option is to simply wait until Ultra releases the UltraEdgeFX blade that will come pre-machined on the emitter end to fit the conversion kits.

[Anavrin]

Another option is to simply wait until Ultra releases the UltraEdgeFX blade that will come pre-machined on the emitter end to fit the conversion kits.

But... but that would be sensible, easier, and not NEARLY as much fun! ;)

[Darth Vane]

mhm so will widening the hole of the blade holder make it weaker? or no? i might just wait for the pr-machined ones though.( yes i am lazy on some cases so what?) lol

[Anavrin]

mhm so will widening the hole of the blade holder make it weaker? or no? i might just wait for the pr-machined ones though.( yes i am lazy on some cases so what?) lol

You could dremel out the blade holder... but then you can't use TCSS's blades without adding a buffer ring. The best method with a larger blade is to shim the blade to fit the holder–blades are transient, blade holders are expensive ;)

[Darth Vane]

what do you mean shim the blade?

[Anavrin]

what do you mean shim the blade?

Shim is actually the wrong word-in fact I meant the opposite XD I mean the best way to deal with this is reduce the outer diameter of the base of the blade to fit it in a smaller holder rather than widen your holder's inner diameter to fit it because then you would have to use a shim (wedge) to hold TCSS blades in.

[Darth Vane]

oh ok. so about howmuch would i have to take off the blade if i wanted to get to fit my blade holder?

[Anavrin]

oh ok. so about howmuch would i have to take off the blade if i wanted to get to fit my blade holder?

It should be very little. The UltraSaber blades aren't /that/ much thicker than TCSS blades (which I'll note I'd prefer, are readily available, and less work to mate to TCSS, but I totally get the interest in white PolyC), so you'd just be sanding/dremelling the outside of the base of the blade until it fit.

[Darth Vane]

oh ok. thanks. to be completly honest i was going to get the regular blades from TCSS but i like the idea for a white polycarbenet blade. it makes it look more convincing you know. rather than having the light in a tube effect. ( no offense meant tim)

[Anavrin]

oh ok. thanks. to be completly honest i was going to get the regular blades from TCSS but i like the idea for a white polycarbenet blade. it makes it look more convincing you know. rather than having the light in a tube effect. ( no offense meant tim)

To each his own, I actually like the Corbin coring effect, and the look of the TCSS blades–the UltraEdge feels too washed out.

[Darth Vane]

about the corbin effect. from the pics it looks like just a thin white core. is it like that in person or dose it have a more wider core like in the movies? i hear that LUX III red looks amazing with the ultra-edge....

[beggarsoutpost]

I must have gotten lucky...my UltraEdge blades fit my standard ID MHS bladeholder as do my other UltraBlades...the others are custom so everything fits...no sanding no dremeling.... way to much work and it will always look like........!!

[Darth Vane]

lol. wish blade holder style do you have?

[Sohryu76]

Another option is to simply wait until Ultra releases the UltraEdgeFX blade that will come pre-machined on the emitter end to fit the conversion kits.

and they will fit in the MHS system emitters then?

[Darth Vane]

mabey it depends on wich styleof blade holder. or if it is custom made or not... :confused:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

and they will fit in the MHS system emitters then?

They should....they will be desinged to fit the stock converted UltraFX sabers that use the original plastic blade holder that has a more precise 1" blade socket than the aluminum blade holders you get when you do the conversion yourself or mail one in for conversion. The blase of the blade will be machined down a bit to fit the slightly smaller blade sockets. So they might be a better fit than a stock UltreEdge for the MHS blade holders.

[thejedilestat]

i wanna see what it looks like after a beating

[Matt Thorn]

I haven't seen one in person, but I have to confess I'm not impressed by the video and images I've seen of the UltraEdge. IMO, it makes the edge unnaturally sharp. Basically, it looks like the standard issue FX blade to me. I love the Corbin effect, but I also like the evenness of light in blades lined with plenty of polypropylene film (like the standard UltraBlades). Too bad you can't have both. (I put polypropylene film in a blade that already had Corbin film in it, and the more I put in, the more even the light became, and the less pronounced the Corbin effect became. :( )

[Darth Vane]

to each is own i gusse. idk i still cant wait to get one.( of course i still need electronics to go with it lol)

[Darth Vane]

ok so it looks like the machined one that fits the ultra fx sabers came out. any one test it with a mhs blade holder?

[sithlordfaust]

I got an ultra edge for conversions, and it is too loose for MHS bladeholders, and the the turned down section is londer than the depth of the mhs. its meant for Ultra style conversions that use the plastic bladeholder

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You could also just get one of these:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4424a14/=1dnixc
Then you modify the blade socket to fit any blade from anyone.

[Kal El Rah]

You could also just get one of these:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4424a14/=1dnixc
Then you modify the blade socket to fit any blade from anyone.

Hey JGJ, nice find for the bottle brush. Do you use ATF to keep it from loading up with Aluminum:?:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Hey JGJ, nice find for the bottle brush. Do you use ATF to keep it from loading up with Aluminum:?:

ATF? I'm not following....

[Zook]

You could also just get one of these:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4424a14/=1dnixc
Then you modify the blade socket to fit any blade from anyone.


yeah but its a lot less expensive to just sand the end of the blade a little. Thats what I did on my regular ultra edge. A few minutes of sanding and it fits nice and snug in my MHS blade holder.

Darth Vane...All you have to do is tape the blade up at the depth of the blade holder so you dont scratch up the part you dont want to. Then wrap some 80 (or 180-220 if you dont want to go so course) grit paper around it and turn the blade around and around until its close to fitting. Then go to a finer grit paper like 400 or so and continue until its done. It only takes a few minutes and will work great. Just be sure and do it before the blade is made (I buy just the blade stock, wrap it in poly p and use a tip from here...which takes a little sanding to work as well) or use something to keep the shavings from going in the blade if its a complete blade.

I used a dremel on my first blade but found I get a more even cut and its easier to make exactly the correct dimensions doing it by hand and it only takes a few minutes more.

[Lord Maul]

Zook, what happens when you use a blade holder that isn't MHS though? The blade won't sit all the way down, or in a Mace Windu hilt, the sanded part will show.

[Zook]

Zook, what happens when you use a blade holder that isn't MHS though? The blade won't sit all the way down, or in a Mace Windu hilt, the sanded part will show.

I see what you are saying and I didn't think about it that way because I don't have multiple hilts that I would share a blade with (just speaking from experience). I have only built a few hilts and I wanted each one to have its own blade so its really not a problem to just sand each blade down a little to make it fit the hilt its going on.

If you have multiple hilts that share a blade then no I wouldn't sand the blade down and in the long run it would be cheaper to get the hone over buying several blades. I don't foresee me being one of those people so I just think in the cheapest terms sometimes.

If you are one of those people that have multiple hilts and continue to build them but just have enough blades as necessary you aren't going to listen to a newbie like me anyway ;)...you are going to go the way of the hone...invest in the tool because you will be using it a lot and enjoy using it. :D

[Volk]

Hi everyone. I'm interested in acquiring a couple ultraedge blades for some yoda conversions and I want to make sure they're going to fit. I'm not sure if this MHS applies to me or not. What is MHS?

Thanks

-V

[xl97]

MHS = Modular Hilt System....


(The TCSS parts..)

[Volk]

Well I guess that does apply to me then, since I was planning on using the yoda conversion module from TCSS. Shouldn't Ultra be offering a tapered ultraedge as well? How about some tapered edges like on some of the other blades? That's simple enough, right? Can't we all just get along? I'm sure I'm not the first to mention this to Ultra either.

-V

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Hi everyone. I'm interested in acquiring a couple ultraedge blades for some yoda conversions and I want to make sure they're going to fit. I'm not sure if this MHS applies to me or not. What is MHS?

Thanks

-V
They probably won't fit without being modified first. you may have to sand the bottom of the blade to get it down to a diamter that will fit in the blade socket of the TCSS Conversion kit blade holder. The UltraEdge blades are slightly larger than the polycarbonate tubes that TCSS uses for their blades, and the blade sockets are made to fit those blades, not the ones sold by Ultrasabers.

[Volk]

Thanks for responding. Is it something that choosing the Ultraedge FX would solve? My understanding is that it is already somewhat tapered, in comparison to the regular ultraedge. Is this accurate, or should I invest in some sand paper?

-V

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Thanks for responding. Is it something that choosing the Ultraedge FX would solve? My understanding is that it is already somewhat tapered, in comparison to the regular ultraedge. Is this accurate, or should I invest in some sand paper?

-V

It would, but you'l have to make sure your set-screw/thumbsscrew is long enough to put the proper pressure on it to keep it secure. Those have a smaller diiameter to fit the plastic stock blade holders in the Force FX line, and are loose fitting in a TCSS blade socket. The depth of the tapered section may also be longer than the Yoda blade socket.

What I usually do is use a cylinder hone on the blade socket to open it up and allow the use of any regulaer blade, no matter where it comes form, but it's kind of an expensive tool for just one saber.