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Ironphoenix
01-08-2009, 01:54 PM
so using the noob basic wiring guide i have built my first Lux V led and it has the 700ma resistor. Problem is, it will light up SUPER bright for a split second and then it gets really dim. It's on, theres a current but the light isn't bright at all. What did I do wrong?

Goodman
01-08-2009, 02:05 PM
Oh no. 'Sounds like you fried the LED.

Do you have a picture of your wiring setup? Correct connections, polarity, etc. What's the voltage/mah/chemistry of your battery pack?

Ironphoenix
01-08-2009, 02:15 PM
Its the Lux V kit from TCSS with the buck resistor. I dont think I could have fried it with the kit could I ? I think I might not have soldered the wiring properly. Maybe I had too many variables in my set up than in the tutorial. I do tend to get ahead of myself. I will get pics.

Jedi-Loreen
01-08-2009, 02:19 PM
If the LED only did that once, and won't do it again, it could be fried.

But it if keeps doing it then it's another problem. Possibly a short in one of the connections.

If we could see some photos of your actual wiring job, connections and LED, that would be more helpful to help us help you figure out what is wrong.

eastern57
01-08-2009, 02:37 PM
Ironphoenix,

First things first: a "buck puck" and a "resistor" are two different things - just wanted to get that clarified so's you can help us help you.

It's the lux V kit - if it works at all, you did it right. So good there :)

A battery will provide a slightly higher output the first second (maybe two) that it's connected, then it will fade as it discharges. Everyone's seen a flashlight with low batteries - it does the same thing.

Try some brand new high quality batteries. I recommend you spend the extra few bucks and get Energizer Lithiums - at least this one time... I'm sure you'll notice the difference.

:)

Lord Dottore Matto
01-08-2009, 03:29 PM
good pix of your solder points would be helpful...

Novastar
01-08-2009, 04:58 PM
LDM and others are right... photos = required to troubleshoot.

I'm going to guess that the wiring somehow bypassed the buckpuck (and therefore current regulation) altogether...

...and since the TCSS kit is... 9v I believe??? ... yup, that sounds VERY much like what a Lux V would do under such voltage.

It probably drained the capacity from that cell like a hoover deluxe on crack cocaine.

Again--if this is the case (9v direct to the Lux V with no resistance)... this is the sort of "overflow of cascading current draw" that can be created when no resistance is offered... or if the forward voltage of the LED & battery voltage do not match closely enough.

This would have been avoided with any kind of 7.2v solution... and also if the wiring was correct. :)

Darth Morbius
01-08-2009, 07:45 PM
Which version of the puck is it? 4 wire or 6?

If it's the 6 wire, what do you have the CTR and Ref wires hooked to?

eastern57
01-08-2009, 09:18 PM
Folks, :rolleyes:

he's using the BYO Lux V kit. It comes with a 6AA pack and resistor. Give the guy a little credit. ;)

Jay-gon Jinn
01-08-2009, 09:35 PM
Folks, :rolleyes:

he's using the BYO Lux V kit. It comes with a 6AA pack and resistor. Give the guy a little credit. ;)

Yes, that is what it comes with standard, but he mentions having a 700ma resistor and in his second post, a buck resistor, which may mean this:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-700mA-4-wire-P363.aspx
or this:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-700mA-6-wire-P9.aspx

It is impossible to to help without more information, and possibly photos.

Novastar
01-09-2009, 12:25 AM
Not to mention, since 6AA is 9v... and if a puck or resistor is somehow ignored / mis-connected... that = Lux V go bye-bye. :)

Ironphoenix
01-12-2009, 12:47 AM
Ok, so i have the 6 wire puck. the + and the - are connected properly but the other 4 aren't connected to anything.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/Ironphoenix-666/DSC00068.jpg

Jedi-Loreen
01-12-2009, 01:34 AM
What the heck is that? *face palm*

Dude, that is so wrong. The only thing you have hooked up correctly is the the positive battery output to the positive input on the buck puck. I think, because I can't see that actual connection.

You're not even using the buck puck with the configuration you have there. First of all, you have to have both battery leads going to the puck first, then to the LED.

How does this even make any sense to you? You have 2 negative wires going to the LED. And that's ignoring the fact that one of those 2 wires is supposed to be the input for the puck.

Did you even look at the wire labeling on the buck puck? :confused: VIN means "Voltage in".

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/939.jpg

The black wire from the battery pack goes to the black wire on the puck, the switch on the 2 reference and control wires, which should be the yellow and gray wires in the middle of the puck, or it can go between the red wire coming from the battery back and the red wire on the puck and just cut off the yellow and gray wires.

The LED outputs are clearly labeled on the puck. Make sure you get the polarity correct, the blue - output wire goes on one of the - pads on the LED, and the white + wire goes on one of the + pads on the LED.

I'm sorry if I sound harsh, but it doesn't look like you are paying attention to the wire labeling on the puck at all. And you probably haven't done any reading about buck pucks here in the forums, judging by what I see here, or you'd understand better what a buck puck is for.

And what kind of solder are you using? Is that for electronics? It's so thick, it almost looks like plumbing solder. Not the same thing. Get some thinner solder, it's much easier to work with, and you won't end up with it melting and splattering all over your table.

Jay-gon Jinn
01-12-2009, 09:37 AM
Why doesn't anyone read the info here before ordering parts anymore.....:roll:

Malaki Skywalker
01-12-2009, 10:06 AM
.................................................. ...... I agree with Jay-Gon.

Hasid Lafre
01-12-2009, 10:15 AM
I third that agreement.

Lord Dottore Matto
01-12-2009, 10:58 AM
My man, these folks are being harsh on you and deservedly so. Reading and educating yourself are not optional when it comes to working with any type of electronics. You can follow J-Lo's advice, but I recommend that you put the tools down and spend the next week doing nothing but reading these forums and educating yourself.

Jedi-Loreen
01-12-2009, 11:51 AM
I'm wondering what "noob wiring diagram" he's talking about in his first post.

Nothing would ever tell him to wire an LED like that.

Ironphoenix
01-12-2009, 04:25 PM
Got it working. Thanks for the support.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/Ironphoenix-666/DSC00077.jpg


http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/Ironphoenix-666/DSC00073.jpg

Jay-gon Jinn
01-12-2009, 04:29 PM
Ahh, good, you got it working! Nice looking saber!

Darth_DevilGuy
01-12-2009, 04:57 PM
good for you...

jesus christ how long is that thing, It looks like it must be a foot and a half...

Ironphoenix
01-15-2009, 06:23 PM
yep I wanted enough room to put whatever electronics as I learn to install them and still have the all those lit windows in the hilt. Plus, I'm a big guy, I need a big saber.:p