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Firebird21
03-28-2006, 08:35 PM
CS 03/28/2006 : 19:09:30

I like what you did with that hilt!

Very cool...

[8D]

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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xwingband
03-28-2006, 08:55 PM
Yeah, I know that's in the pictures thread in misc... but that EL wire gives it that unique touch.

It's like the crystals people are doing. So. Neat.[:)]

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?

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Jedi Ranger
03-28-2006, 09:36 PM
Thanks guys![:)][8D]
When I get some better pics of my other hilts, I'll get them posted also.

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Nightwing
04-11-2006, 07:04 AM
Hey JR, could you give us more details on this hilt?


http://www.members.shaw.ca/Jedi.Ranger/SW_Gear/IMG_0462_small_cropped.jpg




For one, how is the sink tube held in place? Just by the button and pommel?
And is the black section grip material, or is it a modified MHS hilt section painted black?

Jedi Ranger
04-11-2006, 02:27 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nightwing

Hey JR, could you give us more details on this hilt?


http://www.members.shaw.ca/Jedi.Ranger/SW_Gear/IMG_0462_small_cropped.jpg




For one, how is the sink tube held in place? Just by the button and pommel?
And is the black section grip material, or is it a modified MHS hilt section painted black?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

The chrome sink tube section is indeed held in place with the pommel and switch.

The black grip section is a modified MHS hilt, painted with flat black primer.

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http://www.members.shaw.ca/Dahak/</center>

Nightwing
04-11-2006, 02:52 PM
Wow, that black primer looks amazing. I think I'll go with that when I build my saber, since I think any kind of actual rubber material would be too thick to fit in-between the sink tube and the MHS.

So, the button is strong enough to hold the tube in place, eh? What if it were bigger, say in this fashion:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f252/NightWing726/Lightsabers/CopyofAeren_cutaway.jpg

Jedi Ranger
04-11-2006, 03:53 PM
Oh yeah. There is barely enough room for a few layers of primer. Even as careful as I was putting the parts together, the primer still got scratched in a few places. There is NO WAY any kind of other material (ie. foam) will fit between the two layers.

Do you mean a larger switch? From what I can see, as long as the switch and the two holes are a near perfect match, you shouldn't have any problems.

Where are you getting a switch like that? I'd love to get one similiar. (With or without the Superman logo [;)] )

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Nightwing
04-11-2006, 04:09 PM
Actually, I meant the size of the tube. It seems like if the tube were bigger, it would put more stress on the switch.

The switch is just the way I drew it. I have a couple of ideas on how to get it to work, but for now I'll probably just use a doorbell or something.

Jedi Ranger
04-11-2006, 05:30 PM
Hmmm.........you know, I can't say for sure. I think it would be fine, but that all depends on how you use and carry your hilt.[;)]

I would say, just add a single screw, somewhere, just to be on the safe side. Besides, you don't want to put too much pressure on your switch, unless you plan on bracing it at the pommel end, like I did, with the pommel itself.

Yeah, if possible, I would personally add a screw somewhere, to help support the outer shell.

Does that help? *LOL* Can't see that it would help too much, but....meh. I haven't dueled with mine yet, so who knows, maybe the switch will break and the whole thing will shift.

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xwingband
04-11-2006, 07:17 PM
Yeah, your hilt is definatly possible now with the pommels. You need a blade screw anyway so that should hold the tube on. If you tape off your saber well you could spray paint it and not worry about the tube scratching it trying to slide it over. I've used epoxy paint (marketed as appliance paint) to do that with great success. Epoxy paint is what randomsabers uses exclusively.

Then the hitch is the switch. Making it inset would be good but not needed if you don't mind it not being flush.

Now back to topic.[:p]

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?

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LAN-ED-TUL
04-12-2006, 02:33 AM
too bad my idea i posted elsewhere about using the truck bed spray on liner from a spray can at wally world couldnt work in that situation. i use that on pvc parts, like grips and whatnot. it leaves a textured grain on the part. looks like abs molded stuff. i like that stuff for grip parts especially. and its tough too. stays on really well.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c291/LAN-ED-TUL/me.jpg


You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Jedi Ranger
04-12-2006, 06:11 AM
Well, what if you slid on the shell, then mask it off, and then spray on the bed liner?

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saber417
04-12-2006, 06:50 AM
i have done that slid the sink pipe on and then masked off the area's it worked pretty well.i wouldnt recommend it if you ever want to remove the sink pipe it would be a mess.the undercoating can get thick and stick up past the sink pipe.sometimes it can look odd and throws the whole saber off

Jedi Ranger
04-12-2006, 02:37 PM
Ah, ok. Thanks for the input!

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LAN-ED-TUL
04-12-2006, 05:19 PM
yeah that can happen, it does creep into the small cracks which would be between the parts. might be very hard to seperate again with out messing the paint job up. you would more than likely have to strip and repaint again.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c291/LAN-ED-TUL/me.jpg


You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

xwingband
11-08-2006, 08:26 PM
Hey JR,

On the new hilt... nice job! I can tell you keep expanding the design from one saber to the next.

2 questions:
1# How is the EL wire secured to he grips?
2# Why two power supplies? It seems odd as the power for a 5W is definitely in the EL appropriate range. Especially if you have it on a DPDT...

Jedi Ranger
11-08-2006, 08:50 PM
Thanks xwingband!

1) On each rib (velley), I drilled 2 holes. 1 for the EL wire to exit the hilt, wrap around the rib, and into the other hole. Then I thread the wire up a row, and repeat the process. The BIG secret here is, that the holes are hidden under the chrome section that eventually forms the emitter shroud.

2) Well, first I'm not familiar with using voltage regulators. But more so, the 5-watt led is a huge power hog, and want each both power items as bright as possible for as long as possible. So, even when the LED power pack dies, the EL will still be going. Basically, I'll still have something to 'show off'.

I am going to be getting a larger (physically and longer-lasting) li-ion pack, and at that time, I may have to bite the bullet, and run everything off that single pack.

xwingband
11-08-2006, 09:06 PM
Ahh... it looked like it was on the ridge instead of the valley.

Why would you need a voltage regulator? Most run a 5W with 9V's... that's perfect for EL... it seems logical. If you are drawing from the same pack it dies at the same time. I do agree that the EL will still be going as the LED is dead though on seperate packs.

Jedi Ranger
11-08-2006, 10:01 PM
I'm using a 7.2v pack for the LED. This current one has about twice the life of a 9v battery. I had initially wanted to do a parellel 9v setup for the LEWD, but did not have enough room.