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Lord Maul
12-21-2008, 01:35 PM
Okay, I'm in the process of upgrading my first MHS project, as many of you know. Here is the original hilt.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_1138.jpg

The upgraded version will be different in a few key places:
1) It will have a CF V4.1 instead of Ultrasound
2) A RGB Rebel instead of a V Green
3) Li Ions instead of NiMH for batteries
4) Electronics sled made from PVC

Here's my current wiring diagram. With this setup the crystal chamber will mimic the blade which is what I want.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/wiringdiagram-2.jpg


If anything is wrong with that diagram, let me know and I'll fix it.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________________________

The first thing I decided to do on upgrading the hilt was make a hole for the rotary switch. I had an existing 1/4" square hole (http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_0428.jpg) from the original project, so I decided to simply enlarge that.
I taped off where the new switch boundaries would be and took the drill press to it, drilling out as much as possible. Once that was done, I brought out the needle files and filed away. The enlargement took around 1.5 hours. Making the original hole took 2 hours. Hell of a long time, I know. Here are some pictures of the new switch mounted in the hilt. Don't look at all the finger prints on the hilt
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_2889.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_2890.jpg


Today was the aux switch day. Here's a picture of how I have it mounted.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_2908.jpg

Now for how I did it. You see the little piece of graph paper with three dots? That was a bit of genius I had. I wanted the aux button to be centered between two of the crystal chamber slots. What I did was take graph paper and mark the inner edge of two slots to get the distance between them. It was something like 35mm. Divide by two and I had my midpoint. Then I just drilled it out.

I will keep the aux button firmly in place using the crystal itself. The crystal (when I first got it) was too big for the diameter of the MHS hilt. I filed away on 3 sides to get it to fit just right. To mount the aux button all I will do is file one side away a little bit more so that it slides behind the base of the switch. No chance for movement there.

NEW UPDATES:

This is the color changing switch. Red is positive, black is the red LED, green is the green LED, and yellow is the blue LED
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_2999.jpg

This is the Rebel RGB. Color coding for this one is : Red is negative, black is the red LED, green is the green LED, and yellow is the blue LED
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_2996.jpg

This is the crystal chamber LED. There are three resistors (one for each positive lead). I had a "oh crap" moment while wiring this one. On accident I put the yellow lead on the red anode. I had to de-pin the quick connector and rearrange everything so that the LED leads corresponded with the blade LED.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_2998.jpg

Here's the aux button, ground down with a dremel. It's shown next to a normal one from TCSS to give an idea of how much I cut it down.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_2995.jpg

Lastly, the speaker. Nothing to really say for this one.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_3000.jpg


__________________________________________________ ____________________________________________


I'll be updating this thread whenever I make progress on the hilt. Feel free to put in your opinions/criticisms of the design process.

Goodman
12-21-2008, 02:58 PM
Neato keep the pics coming!

Are you going to file down the aux switch at all so it isn't so tall?

Jedi-Loreen
12-21-2008, 03:15 PM
Yeah, I'd be worried about how far that switch plunger is sticking out, too. What's it made of? Metal, hard plastic or rubber?


I see you changed your resistor set up for your crystal chamber LEDs from the original diagram, too. ;)

Lord Maul
12-21-2008, 03:16 PM
Oh crap. The resistor value should be 220 ohms.

J-Lo, the plunger is made of hard plastic. I'm trying to decide how I want to cut it down

Dark Navel
12-21-2008, 03:53 PM
A dremel with a cutting disk will make short work of the plunger. If any bits look melted aftwards use a small file or a barrel sander on the dremel and make sure the speed is low.

Count Malik
12-21-2008, 04:39 PM
Sounds cools to me. Haven't seen to many RGB cf powered sabers!:razz:

eastern57
12-21-2008, 04:52 PM
Sounds cools to me. Haven't seen to many RGB cf powered sabers!:razz:

I can't think of ANY off the top of my head...

DizzyKungFu
12-23-2008, 09:59 AM
Looks like it will be great! What are you going to use for optics/lens for the tri-Rebel?

Lord Maul
12-23-2008, 11:56 AM
The optics Xwing provides along with the LED ;)

JetSet
12-24-2008, 03:52 AM
I can't wait to see the finished product. I really love this saber.

Sairon
12-24-2008, 11:17 AM
are you going to cut down the aux button, because it sticks out a little to much I think.

Lord Maul
12-24-2008, 11:17 AM
I cut it the other day. I just didn't post a picture ;)

Phiily Manyaan
12-27-2008, 10:56 AM
You said you used your crystal chamber to hold the switch in. How do you keep it in place otherwise? I want to use one of these on my saber but have no idea how to mount one.

Lord Maul
12-27-2008, 01:17 PM
There are other ways, too. Eastern57 uses 1" PVC tubing to sandwich the switch between the hilt and the tube. You can glue it in, as well. Other people can chime in with their methods.

Sairon
12-27-2008, 02:45 PM
any updates? as in more pictures:D

Lord Maul
12-27-2008, 02:47 PM
I'm waiting for the CF, LED, and battery pack. The latter two come from Xwing and I believe they have shipped.

Soon, my friend :p

Sairon
12-27-2008, 02:51 PM
right, I hate waiting for parts. I still have to wait for stuff before I can finish my saber:(

Jedi 128
01-03-2009, 05:54 AM
Like the RGB idea it has inspired me. I discovered something about RGB the other day.
If you had them all on at the same time you could get a very powerful white!

Here's proof!

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s33/Billy400_bucket/rgb.jpg

BTW where are you getting the switch and LED's from(including RGB)?

Lord Maul
01-03-2009, 02:24 PM
The switch came from allelectronics.com

Both RGB LEDs came from members at Judgesabersmith.com who can reveal themselves if they wish ;)

xl97
01-03-2009, 02:51 PM
The switch came from allelectronics.com

Both RGB LEDs came from members at Judgesabersmith.com who can reveal themselves if they wish ;)


psst.. you already spilled the beans in the previous page. ;)

Lord Maul
01-03-2009, 03:00 PM
Oh crap! LOL

Well, yeah, the Tri Rebel I'm getting from Xwing :p

xl97
01-03-2009, 03:42 PM
well I thought you wouldve just edit the first page.. LOL

but then again.. maybe the extra business will help X out.. =)

I know he stated taking it to other places..

I still havent ordered mine yet.. =( guess Ive been waiting for the results from others??

xwingband
01-05-2009, 08:08 PM
LED and batteries are on their way so that should jump start the work! :)

Lord Maul
01-05-2009, 08:11 PM
I saw that on the sale thread. I'm getting excited. This baby is getting closer.

I'll be able to wire over half the saber with the LED and batteries here :cool:

Jay-gon Jinn
01-05-2009, 08:20 PM
Just remember to take lots and lots of pictures, Maul!

Count Malik
01-05-2009, 08:29 PM
*Jedi Mind Tricks Lord Maul* you will post lots of pics... For every one on the forums...:D this is gunna be a sweet saber LM!:cool:

Lord Maul
01-12-2009, 07:08 PM
Bump, new pictures posted. This brings the thread up to date with what I've done on the saber

Lord Maul
09-23-2009, 09:08 PM
Holy thread revival Batman!!!!!

Lots of updates on this saber.
1) CF was sent in for reprogramming to aviod frying red LEDs. Now it is a V4.3
2) Resistors all finally figured out thanks to LDM
3) Sound Banks and iSaber totally set up, saber calibrated (thanks for the help Erv!)
4) Crystal chamber LED all wired up - it is a prolight RGB now. SUPER bright

What is left.
1) I need my tri rebel back from Xwing. Two dies were fried on it, it is in for repair.
2) I need to re-align some of the hilt parts to get them all perfect

So, literally all that is left is like 10 solder connections and plugging in two LEDs. Oh, and some sanding.

I took some time to do an assembly photo sequence. This also shows my wiring, nice and neat. I am VERY pleased with it.

First, we have all the parts.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4203.jpg

Slide the chassis into the hilt, and pull out the recharge port and main switch.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4204.jpg

Screw on the switch nut and the charge port nut.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4205.jpg

Here is a view of the bottom of the hilt. Nice and snug. It is about to get uncomfortably snug.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4206.jpg

Slide in the color change switch. Notice the epoxy on the bottom of it. I put this on after breaking 4 of the switches trying to get them into the hilt. It is INCREDIBLY tight.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4207.jpg

Plug the color change switch into the connector inside the hilt. This is the most aggrivating part of assembly, as you have no room at all to work with.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4209.jpg

Cram the wires down into the hilt, so that the speaker can fit in.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4210.jpg

Put the speaker mount on, and slide the speaker in. Screw on the pommel. This part of the saber is done.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4211.jpg

This is a view looking down from the crystal chamber. I can pull the SD card out with tweezers to adjust stuff if I ever want to. I already have it calibrated though, so I don't see myself doing this too often.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4212.jpg

Put the little piece of foam into the hilt. This takes up the space between the battery pack/CF and the bottom of the crystal chamber.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4214.jpg

Put in the side piece of foam, and then the crystal. There is a flat spot on the crystal which holds the Aux button in place. Very simple, but it works.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4216.jpg

Here is the lower half of the saber, all assembled.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4217.jpg

I will finish this little blow by blow assembly when I have the emitter LED. Shouldn't be more than a few weeks!

EDIT: Forgot to add this, but the foam holding the crystal will eventually be gone. I just want to get the saber done. 2.5 years is a long build time.

Novastar
09-24-2009, 06:00 AM
Sweet, Maul! Looking forward to seeing the completed work...

And yup... tight spaces? Hmm... none of us know a LICK about any of THAT! ;)

Jay-gon Jinn
09-25-2009, 01:15 PM
Looking good, Maul!

Lord Maul
10-28-2009, 08:09 PM
She's done. After 32 months from my first TCSS order for this saber, I bring you

SPECTRA

The colors in Spectra are the order of colors on the rotary switch :dft012:

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4274.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4275.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4276.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4277.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4278.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4279.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4280.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4281.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_4282.jpg

I didn't take pictures of every color, as the blending was right for a lot of them. The red LED is the one at the 'top' of the triangle, so it doesn't get a good view of the optics. As such, the purple is a bit blue and the orange is basically all green. Oh well, I really just wanted the red, green, and blue features.

Onli-Won Kanomi
10-28-2009, 11:53 PM
Great saber Lord Maul...and an inspiring build log...BRAVO!

Lord Maul
10-29-2009, 09:05 PM
Thanks Onli Won :)

Kal El Rah
10-29-2009, 09:12 PM
LM that ended up looking great.;)

Invisas1979
10-30-2009, 06:42 AM
Hey LM. The wirework on this is awesome. Do you have a pics of the led wiring, I'd love to see how you've done that.

Also looking at the BDC switch there are only 4 wires, 3 go to the CC led and one goes to the main led, is this right?. If so, is the wire that goes to the main led the positive which is then spliced to go to the positives on the main led with the negatives from the main led going to the board????

Clockwork
10-30-2009, 07:49 AM
Brilliant build Maul. A 'bar raising' saber. I was of the understanding that the CF board detects LED voltage on boot. how does this effect booting on green and then switching to Red? Did you have to overcome problems like this?

Sunrider
10-30-2009, 10:36 AM
Well..... did you fire 5 or 6? (I gots to know!)

Different resistors?

ARKM
10-30-2009, 12:45 PM
Neat!

Lord Maul
10-30-2009, 03:59 PM
Hey LM. The wirework on this is awesome. Do you have a pics of the led wiring, I'd love to see how you've done that.

Also looking at the BDC switch there are only 4 wires, 3 go to the CC led and one goes to the main led, is this right?. If so, is the wire that goes to the main led the positive which is then spliced to go to the positives on the main led with the negatives from the main led going to the board????

The wires from the BDC switch are set up as 3 positives and one negative. Those leads get spliced in two, each LED has its own 4 wire quick connect.

Clockwork, I haven't had any problems yet.

Thanks for the compliments guys.